The photos are actually stored at PhotoBucket and referenced here. PhotoBucket, at the first of July 2017, changed their policy of free referencing of photos to requiring a hefty subscription model. The photos can not be shown unless Wayne's upgrade's his PhotoBucket account at about $400/year.
I suspect Wayne will evetually get this done. Hopefully others can help (Wayne is very busy) and add the photos. I will soon also need this trick!
Oh GEEZ Photobucket....I have thousands of build pics on there because it was free. I'll have to move the pics when I get some time. Damn you Photobucket!
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Oh GEEZ Photobucket....I have thousands of build pics on there because it was free. I'll have to move the pics when I get some time. Damn you Photobucket!
Exactly my feeling!
~ Mark
818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo
Wayne, given the info you've made available (and I've used my share of it already), I'd be glad to help repost. Need to work out mechanics of getting your images. I just retired and though still lots of irons in the fires I'd like to see your info back on the forum intact again. PM me if you like.
Over time most of the free sites hosting whatever (mostly pictures) go commercial - which is their plan from day one. Two or three of the remote computer/screen share tools have gone this route in the last 5 years - I've done remote access work since the late 90's and have had several nice tools suddenly go money-money-money. The 'freeness' draws in lots of users over time, then demand money, lose some users but come out ahead overall. In the end they all hope to get bought by 'soft or 'oogle and be billionaires overnight. Laugh at the users that get caught between the narrow rocks all the way to the bank. No way anyone here can afford $400 to host images for non-commercial use. Maybe if I was building a GTM...
They caught me too. And I was contemplating using it to build some family photo albums and print them there - nadda anymore. I switched over to www.cloudinary.com which is also free and runs the same risk. But looking the site over I decided it might last long enough. Uploading and getting links no more challenging that Photobucket was - maybe a bit simpler. Figuring out what picture got put where was a bit of job.
Does anyone have a picture of this mod with the barbed fitting installed. I am working cooling system now and while I think I know how it goes, a picture would confirm it for me.
~ Mark
818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo
Interestingly enough, the factory radiator on WRXs built til July 2002 had no cap on the radiator. It was only added later to ease burping of the system.
this is true. there are also aftermarket rads made for these years that have no caps so that they are drop in replacements. this type of sealed radiator would seem the best option for cleaning these lines up. then just run a single overflow off the coolant filler tank (which seems people are calling a degas tank?).
I do a mod to bleed all the air the first time you fill it. what happens is there is an air pocket that gets trapped in the motor that would normally go uphill to the radiator in the WRX. In the 818 the water outlet goes down and traps the air. You put in a barb nipple in the water outlet and run it up to the degas tank. If you face the motor from the seating compartment, you drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole at about 2 O'clock position in the water outlet. Run a line from there to the degas tank and fill as usual. All the air moves up to the degas tank and your overheating problems will be gone.
Brass barb fitting
Hook to the left nipple on the degas tank
I know it is 1/8" pipe thread, what size is the barbed portion?
We are getting close to reassembling our 2.5i NA motor and just wondering if this coolant mod is necessary? The instructions for the normally aspirated engine shows installing a fill port of the coolant line in the engine bay where a high point is created for burping coolant and filling.
818 "S"pyder delivered 11/27/20, using 2007 Impreza 2.5l NA donor. Work mostly being done by my son Liam...body work and paint being done by dad (that's me)
MK3.1 #6583RD, built from 2008-2019, sold 11/2011
I’m guessing here because I don’t know the arrangement of the NA system. I think you’ll still want to do this mod. It ends up being a high point in the system and air gets stuck here.
The mod was pretty easy to do. I left the crossover pipe on the engine and did it. Just stuff a rag inside past the place you’ll drill and tap. Then vacuum it out when done.
The rev 1V manual says: If using a Naturally Aspirated engine, there is no rear overflow tank. It is recommended that a fill kit is used such as Peak PKF0AA.
I think what they mean is that there is no pressurized degas tank on an NA engine, only a vented overflow tank normally beside the radiator. I think the manual is trying to help solve the air bubble problem with a fill kit, but it’s an awkward solution.
I implemented a smaller manual version of Wayne’s Mod by threading a #8-32 hole in the aluminum casting where it’s pretty thick and filing the top flat. I cut a slot in the bottom of an aluminum screw so I can vent the air bubble when it’s hot. A washer and O-ring keep it sealed otherwise. I’ll also mount the donor expansion tank and run the overflow line as the manual shows. It’s a manual process and messier than Wayne’s, but I think it will work. Once the air bubble is released using the vent, and perhaps periodically thereafter, I think the coolant should remain air free, but I can’t vouch for it until it’s tested.
Here's another method for air venting of the upper radiator hose. I used a barbed bulkhead fitting and cut off the non-threaded side, punched a hole in the radiator hose, and inserted the fitting into the hose with washer and nut. My engine was already in the car and I thought this might be easier than drilling and tapping the aluminum. I hope it works! It's these little details that make me wonder what other problems I'm going to run into that are addressed on the forum but which I haven't found out about yet.... 20201128_153052.jpg20201128_153115.jpg20201128_154801.jpg20201128_161743.jpg20201128_163358.jpg
This is how I filled my system with coolant. My donor is an '06 WRX turbo which came with an aftermarket radiator with a traditional cap on the top tank. I located the overflow tank in the front of the car and ran a 1/4" line from the purge tank on the engine to the overflow tank, and teed this line to another line from the overflow on the radiator, so that overflow from either the radiator or from the purge tank will go into the overflow tank. To fill the system, I first filled as much as I could through the purge tank and through the radiator cap. Then I filled the overflow tank with coolant and applied air pressure to the tank through the vent fitting in the yellow cap, which pressurizes the tank and forces coolant into either the radiator or the purge tank (with the radiator cap ON, purge tank cap OFF). Initially, all the coolant goes to the purge tank since it is open to atmosphere, which fills the 1/4" line running to the tank. Once filled, I clamped off this section of the vent line, so that now coolant only flows into the radiator. The radiator cap acts as a check valve to keep the coolant from running back out. When the coolant gets low in the overflow tank, you stop and refill and repeat the process (several times!) until fluid begins to run out of the purge tank. Let it settle and repeat again until the purge tank remains full. Seems like this eliminated almost all of the air in the system. Won't know for sure until I can crank 'er up, which is going to be a while. Attachment 140174
If this mod is done, what happens to the hose that would otherwise be attached to the left barb on the degas tank? The manual says that comes from the barb on the top right of the radiator.
Not exactly sure what the question is, but this may help.
On my set up, 1A (marked on degass tank) originally went to the top of the radiator - not overflow. It now goes to the nipple on the aluminum coolant manifold on the engine- the VCP MOD. The other degass input (1B) goes/comes from the engine coolant manifold- in my case near the turbo. coolant tank.jpgrad top.jpg
Filling was really straight forward. Just filled what I could at the radiator and degass tank. Then used this fill gadget, got it running and filled it as needed.
Thanks @driveslikejehu, what I don’t understand is what happens at the radiator end. You said “…originally went to the top of the radiator - not overflow” does that connection get capped or something once the mod is applied?
Thanks @driveslikejehu, what I don’t understand is what happens at the radiator end. You said “…originally went to the top of the radiator - not overflow” does that connection get capped or something once the mod is applied?
Yes, it gets capped. That's what my 2nd pic shows, maybe not clearly... My port labeled 1A on the degas tank originally was connected to the one labeled 1A on the radiator.
Last edited by driveslikejehu; 12-04-2022 at 02:51 PM.
I used a tee and tied the radiator and Wayne’s mod into the same degas port. That line between the radiator and the degas tank really helps get air out of the system.
Yes, it gets capped. That's what my 2nd pic shows, maybe not clearly... My port labeled 1A on the degas tank originally was connected to the one labeled 1A on the radiator.
Sorry, driveslikejehu, for some silly reason I had missed your 2nd photo. That shows exactly what I wanted to know and very clearly!
Originally Posted by Ajzride
I used a tee and tied the radiator and Wayne’s mod into the same degas port. That line between the radiator and the degas tank really helps get air out of the system.
… and that was the other possibility I was thinking of. Thank you.
If you run a line from the radiator to the degas tank, you need a "zero psi" radiator cap. Basically a cap with no spring in it so that the radiator doesn't build pressure, that needs to happen at the degas tank.
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Originally Posted by fastzrex
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