Ted G's 427 Cobra Build #10333 - Aluminum Spats

[Ted G]

Yes, I too installed the cubby wall and then the body.... ugh. I used a few things to cut it down. The corners next to the frame was the hardest. But I used my Hilti nibbler for the most part and used my Hilti die grinder with an amazing grinding bit to get those corners. Then I took my grinder to clean it up a bit (yes, Hilti). (shameful plug for Hilti tools). All good now.

Ted
Hilti sales employee

[toadster]

looks so good Ted -was great to see it in person today! keep rockin!

[Ted G]

looks so good Ted -was great to see it in person today! keep rockin!

Yes and thank you for bringing over the hoist. Also, thank for looking into the 3D printer for my wheel center caps. Also, thanks to FMan for lending out his hoist to Toadster and me.... and probably a few others.

[Ted G]

Had a visit with my engine builder today. Elliot Franklin of Mustang Corral if anyone wants a great builder in Northern California. Waiting on just a couple of parts that are supposed to be in today or tomorrow to complete the motor. I am planning on picking it up on Thursday of next week. Here is a few pictures thus far:

Block.JPG Prebuild.JPG

Then a few of the short block assembly:

Block2.jpg Block3.jpg Rotating Assembly.jpg

[Mike.Bray]

Love that Dart 427W Ted! Of course it's no secret I like SBF's in a Cobra. That's going to be outstanding in your car.

What are the specs and details?

[Ted G]

Love that Dart 427W Ted! Of course it's no secret I like SBF's in a Cobra. That's going to be outstanding in your car.

What are the specs and details?

This will be a pretty mild 427 with just over 500hp. Here are some of the details:

Skat forged rotating assembly.
AFR heads
Comp Cam (no specs as of yet)
Comp roller rockers
Aviad oil pan
Edelbrock performer RPM intake
Cloyes timing set double roller
Milodon water pump
Melling oil pump

Etc., etc., etc.
TKX trans

[Ted G]

Well, it has been a productive week or so. On Thursday, I dropped of the body at Ken Pike... The Nor Cal guru for Cobra paint and body.

BodyToPaint.jpg

Then, from Yuba City, I drove the one hour drive to Grass Valley to pick up my motor and transmission from Elliot Franklin of "Mustang Corral". Great Ford Engine builder and many put their trust in him with their classic cars. It was a pleasure to see a few GT 350's, 500's, a Pantera and a CSX there. I picked up my 427 from him and couldn't be happier.

Engine Delivery.jpg Engine Pickup.jpg

Over the weekend, I was able to put together my clutch, bellhousing and transmission. This was a bit of a challenge for me, but everything went together without a hitch. I am looking forward to have some of the Sacramento Cobra guys helping me this Saturday installing this bad boy.

clutch1.jpg BellHousing.jpg SeperatorPlate.jpg Flywheel.jpg
Clutch.jpg PressurePlate.jpg MarryTransEngine2.jpg

Today, I received my starter, coil, carburetor and a few other part to get this puppy installed. And guess what???? It's a slow week at work so that means more time in the garage!!!

Ted

[Ted G]

Last weekend was one of those milestones for sure. The Sacramento Cobra group showed up in full force and we got the motor installed into #10333. What a day of fun and camaraderie. We had one big challenge in that my custom heater box and the heater core inlet was just too close with the addition of the Forward Firewall from FF Metal. So, that'll be another post soon on how I will tackle that. So far, I just have the heater box and blower removed with the pipes cut. Here was the problem:

InstallProblem.JPG

With that causing the normally quick install to be a bit longer (a few hours), we powered through the issue with donuts and coffee and we were successful. #10333 was waiting for her mate:

Install1.JPG Install2.JPG

With the TRX attached and headers removed, we delicately placed her into her home. Thanks to the Sacramento Factory Five Cobra group for all your help, advice, and hard work. Here are a few shots of the team and the install:

Install3.jpg

Install4.jpg

Install5.jpg

InstallTeam.jpg

What a day I'll remember for years to come!

Ted

[Fman]

Congrats again Ted, thanks for inviting us all out... I can't wait to hear that Elliott Franklin built 427 come to life!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Ted. What a day! Very cool you had so many other builders there for the big day. Your motor is looking really good. And, your Ford blue chassis is really growing on me. Thanks for posting the pictures.

[John Ibele]

What a great way to get an engine in. Congrats. Also, great to see you work with a local builder on the engine, not the cheapest way to go but a very satisfying process for me at least, and you end up with one more thing that makes your build unique. Yours is looking great. Thanks for sharing the updates!

[Ted G]

Pretty productive weekend in the garage working on #10333. While I am waiting a few parts to trickle in from various vendors, I decided to tackle my ignition switch. Like others, I wasn't really happy with the provided FFR ignition switch and tiny little key. I decided to purchase an ignition switch from CJ Pony Parts for a 1965 mustang. I am using the left side of the dash position for the switch. Here is the original FFR supplied switch and the Mustang switch difference:

IgnitionOld.JPG IginitionNew.JPG IgnitionSwitch.jpg

Because of the much smaller wires, I was worried about running the heavy amperage through the Mustang switch so I ran two separate relays for the Ignition and ACC feeds. I also have a "Ignition Switch" on my lower dash that is a kill switch for the ignition. Here is the wiring diagram (please excuse the handwritten diagram) and the relays after install:

IgnitionRelay.JPG IgnitionRelay2.JPG

Cutting into the carbon fiber dash is a bit tricky, specially with the small anti-rotation notches.

IgnitionCutout.JPG IgnitionCutout2.JPG

Overall, I'm very happy with the switch. I actually had to cut the spring on the switch as it was just too tight and made the key pretty hard to turn. Now, back to the motor!!


Ted

[Ted G]

After tackling some behind the dash wiring for the ignition switch and changing the changing the clutch safety switch wires to the neutral safety switch, I moved on to the motor. I knew these headers were going to be a task getting them in with such tight tolerances between the bolts and the header tubes. I purchased the headers and sidepipes from GasN and I love them. I actually had two bolts I couldn't even get into the holes. The instructions from Georgie state that the header tube might have to be "manipulated" with a hammer. WHAT???? Well, it wasn't that bad after all.

After a little manipulation and a lot of cursing... the headers were in! I did manage to cross-thread one of the bolts, but corrected that pretty quick. The driver side was the hardest by far, but I found if you take off the valve cover, you have much more room to get your hands and tools in there.

Headers2.JPG Headers1.JPG

Next, I moved onto the front end parts. Pulleys, brackets, alternator and power steering pump were next. I purchased my front end components from CVS Racing (https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-...w-small-block/) and I am very happy with their products. I also looked at March Performance, but the cost difference was huge and I really wanted a v-belt system rather than a serpentine belts. I chose a billet Ford Power steering pump and a 100 amp chrome alternator.

Of coarse, nothing goes in perfectly and the power steering pump bracket was the culprit this time. The bracket (and possibly the pulley) was about 1/16" away from the steering column shaft. With the torque of the engine, this was a "it's not going to work" moment. UGH! I decided it would be ok to cut the bracket down as there are three bolts holding the pump onto the bracket and cutting through one of the "slides" was not going to affect anything. I just need to make sure I get a good tight-sized v-belt for adjustment purposes.

Here is the problem, and the fix:

PowerSteering1.JPG PowerSteering2.JPG

After that was done, I completed the rest... I think it looks pretty good.

FrontEnd1.JPG

Next up will be adding v-belts, coil, radiator, throttle linkage and fuel to carb.



Ted
#10333

[Ted G]

Hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas season and Happy New Year!!

I was able to get some good progress over the holiday and getting closer and closer to the first start! However, I did come across a few issues that'll have to be dealt with before that day. But before the issues, I was able to install and set up the carburetor, fuel attachment and throttle linkage. I made my own fuel log and did the final attachment of Forte's throttle linkage.... Btw, I just love the feel of the pedal with this linkage! I also cleaned up the engine wiring and covered the plastic wire looms with a great product called "TechFlex". It's a braided nylon wrap that just cleans up the look IMHO. I also was able to install the GasN side pipes and hangers! This is just temporary for now, but will aid in lowering the sound in my "hood" on the day of first start. These are the "brushed nickel" pipes from Georgie. I love the look.

SidePipeFitting.jpg ThrottleLinkage.jpg FuelLog.JPG

Power Steering Issue:
Following up on my power steering issue, I realized that the old Ford Style pump will not work with my CVF set up as the steering shaft is just too close. Even if I got a belt that was very tight, I wouldn't have clearance for the rear connection as I am very close the the DS head. Here is a couple of pictures of the issue:

PSclearance1.JPG PSclearance2.JPG

Now, I'll be going to a GM style PS set up.

Heater Box Issue:
Next, I tackled the heater relocation as during the engine install and the fact that I had a Forward Firewall made that original location too close to the valve cover and covered up one of the bolts. I am enclosing my heater and only pulling air from the passenger footbox instead of the engine compartment. Just a personal preference as I didnt' want that constant flow through the heater from the engine bay that several have complained about.

NewHeaterbox.jpg NewVersionHeaterBox.jpg

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.

keyedInsert.jpg ValveCoverbolt.JPG ValveCoverbolt2.JPG


Happy Building!!

[Windsor]

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.

Aluminum heads on the engine?

[cc2Arider]

Lookin' good Ted G!

I learned about the TechFlex wiring loom split-wrap in the FFR build class and planned to use it for my MkIV Roadster build...but 1st, I want to use it on the simple wiring for my newly bolted-together small trailer

Which "flavor" did you get? I plan to get the Flexo F6 split-wrap...

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.

keyedInsert.jpg ValveCoverbolt.JPG ValveCoverbolt2.JPG

I prefer Helicoil thread inserts. You can get them at Amazon or McMaster.

[mladen]

I prefer Helicoil thread inserts. You can get them at Amazon or McMaster.

+1. Great review of some of the options here

[Ted G]

Aluminum heads on the engine?

yes. Aluminum AFR heads

[Ted G]

Lookin' good Ted G!

I learned about the TechFlex wiring loom split-wrap in the FFR build class and planned to use it for my MkIV Roadster build...but 1st, I want to use it on the simple wiring for my newly bolted-together small trailer

Which "flavor" did you get? I plan to get the Flexo F6 split-wrap...

Craig C

F6 woven split wrap! I love this stuff

[Ted G]

Well, it happens. Just happy it wasn't something more serious. My last post I wrote about the broken valve cover bolt that snapped in the head and I was successful in only getting out about 1/4" of the snapped bolt with my easy out set. In doing so, the previously cross-threaded threads were shot and I'm sure I added to the problem and decided on doing a repair on the head.

Here is the bolt that snapped:

ValveCoverbolt3.jpg

After plenty of research, I decided on a "keyed insert". I understand there are other good forms of repair, but for the tiny little space I had to the edge of the head, I thought this might be the best. Here is the keyed insert I used:

keyedInsert.jpg

These bolts are typically a 1/4-20 thread pattern and I wanted to keep it that way so I used a 3/8" insert that had 1/4-20 internal threads. The bolts that came with my valve covers had a thinner shaft than your typical bolt that was 1/4-20 and just seemed to be a cheap bolt. I replaced them all with a grade 5 bolt. I prepped the area like it was surgery as I didn't want any chards of aluminum getting into the oil. Here are some pictures from the repair:

Step 1: Drill out head with a "Q" sized bit
Repair1drillout.JPG
Step 2: Tap hole with 3/8" tap
Repair2tap.JPG
Step 3: Insert keyed insert
Repair3insert.JPG Repair4insert.JPG
Step 4: Hammer down keys with special keyed insert tool
Repair5insert.JPG
Completed and probably stronger than before.
Repair6.JPG

[CABulldog]

Hi Ted,

#10333 sister (I was the delivery before Ted's) is coming on so much slower than you are. But again some great ideas I will be happy to steal for myself, that flex wrap looks good I think I will be taking that, I may also use a variation of you heater box idea as well. She is looking great looking forward to more progress.

James

[Ted G]

Thank you! What is your chassis number again?

[CABulldog]

Mine is #10323

[Ted G]

Well, we did it!

Thank you to the Sacramento Factory Five Group who came out this past weekend and not only supported, but helped in my first start. We needed a little timing help and adjustment of the idle but in the end, she ran beautifully! My girlfriend even got us a bottle of champagne with a great banner and sign to commemorate the day! Love you babe! My daughter (Capri) was the very first passenger the next day after I got a few of the bugs worked out.

Here are a few pics from the day:

427Gift.JPG AlmostThere.jpg Champagne.jpg

and the link to the first start video:
https://youtu.be/II5LnCplyZk

First good start that lasted more than 4 seconds:
https://youtu.be/Yw9HYElCjno

First Go-Kart:
https://youtube.com/shorts/zpSuud5a4Jk

Capri's first ride:
https://youtube.com/shorts/QpegoFIkZcM


Now, I just hope that the neighbors are ok with the bit of noise (especially my next door neighbors who are new to the hood and have a newborn baby).

Ted

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Congrats, Ted. First Start and go-kart at the same time. Well done. Thanks for posting the pics and videos.

[JohnK]

Congratulations Ted! That's awesome.

[cc2Arider]

What a great support Team you have ! Congratulations

Craig C

[CABulldog]

Congrats Ted must be a great feeling to get to that stage

[John Ibele]

Way to go, Ted! The engine sounds great, and you’re lucky to have such a fine support crew joining in. Big milestone achieved, congrats.

[Railroad]

Great fun!
Are those tires directional?

[Ted G]

Great fun!
Are those tires directional?

No, just have an inside/outside

[Ted G]

Thanks to John from our Sacramento Factory Five group who put this video on YouTube. That was a fun day full of good guys getting together with some Fire, troubleshooting, and champagne.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUMLv7EQTu0&t=2s

[460.465USMC]

Great video, John. Thanks for posting, Ted. At first was wondering what you meant by Fire...now I know. Great success, and looks like a really good group of guys there to support and fun was had!

[Ted G]

So, I really like the new door latches that FFR has obtained. I think they are probably better, less problematic and more durable with a better latching system. If you were like me, and got caught between the old latches and the new latches and did not receive and updated frame (probably between March 2021 and October 2021, you probably received the new latches but got a chassis with the old, shorter tabs that may or may not work with the new latches.

Factory Five has come up with a solution, but it is less than desirable. Since the new latches need a tab that is anywhere from 1/8" to 3/8" longer than the old style, many have to utilize the frame modification that FFR will provide if you ask. This mod is a little "Mickey Mouse" in my opinion, but it will work. This was a big bummer for me, because it was just another modification that I really didn't want to do... But in the end, I am happy with the results. I wanted something a little more custom, so this is what I came up with:


I decided to just cut off the existing tabs on the frame and come up with my own design that: 1). worked well and was sturdy 2). looked like it was meant to be from the start 3). was adjustable

So, I cut the tabs:
DoorTab1.JPG Doortab2.JPG

Ground down the frame:
DoorTab3.JPG

I decided on not welding a new tab on, but rather bolting on a tab instead. I decided to use 1/4" aluminum plate; mainly for strength and a sturdy look, plus this would be polishable. So, from a stock piece of aluminum, I cut the tabs, ground them down, drilled, countersunk and polished them. Since these weren't exactly the same on each side, I stamped them PS and DS for the future.
DoorTabs4.JPG DoorTabs5.JPG DoorTabs8.JPG DoorTabs9.JPG

Mounting them was a little challenge, but I decided to use two countersunk screws that went all the way through the 3/4" frame tube. I also used one that was just tapped into the frame (just to give a little more strength).
DoorTabs7.JPG DoorTabs6.JPG

This is the final look. These feel very, very strong, look good and have some adjustability.
DoorTabFinish.JPG

Let me know what you think.



Ted

[CABulldog]

Well I had better go check mine and fabricate new latches because I am likely in the same boat.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks really sharp. Nicely done

[toadster]

This is the final look. These feel very, very strong, look good and have some adjustability.
DoorTabFinish.JPG

Let me know what you think.
Ted

so awesome Ted! the polished look continues!

[Nigel Allen]

G'day Ted,

Great display of craftmanship that you get to look at every time you open the door.

Cheers,

Nige

[Ted G]

After almost 11 months with #10333, she is off to Ken's for body work and eventually paint. I feel I just dropped off my first born at college. Huge thanks to Travis (FMan) for helping me get this to Ken's in Yuba City. Travis' trailer is so nice! We parked her next to a beautiful Porsche 356 replica.

Off To Ken's.JPG Kens_1.JPG

Although my body was parked at Ken's for the past few months, he didn't start work on it until I brought the chassis to him. Ken texted me this picture of the very first work done on the body.... Now she is ready for fitment to the chassis.

Ready for Fitment.jpg

So, I think I have decided on the color.... I knew for the past several months that it was going to be some sort of a very dark blue. I consulted with many, but my girlfriend owns a Porsche, I have owned 3 and I have a left handed ignition key, and she loves this blue as do I!

Night Blue Metallic.jpg

So, we are going with Porsche's Night Blue Metallic with Porsche GT Silver Metallic stripes and pins.


This week, I ordered a few things like a hide of leather (door panels & trans cover) and carpet (going with a grey instead of black) to keep me busy over the next few weeks.


Ted
#10333