ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index Post #136)

[dbo_texas]

This is one of those things that should have been like a 20 minute install but took me about 2 hrs. I ran into 2 issues. First up, I wanted to replace the flow restrictor valve with the smallest size available. The KRC Coyote unit ships with a -6 size, but many on this forum swapped that with the -4 restrictor valve (p/n 2530400). The smaller the size, the less assist you get. My first issue was that I couldn't get the threads to break loose! I didn't have a 1" deep socket, or any combo wrenches large enough, so my only option was to use a large adjustable wrench. I put it in the vice, cranked on it, and still couldn't get it to break free. Finally, I took out my hammer, whacked it good, and it finally broke free. Seem to me hitting stuff hard with a hammer solves a lot of the assembly issues I've had on this build!




Next up, I followed the FFR installation instructions for the actual install. First up was installing the bracket with the spacers:


I found that my kit didn't come with the new screws to mount the dual pulley to the water pump. No big deal - I just used the original 3 screws used to hold the original serpentine belt pulley on. All good...until I stripped out the screw using the impact wrench. So...off to Home Depot to buy a new M8 flange head bolt. 2 beers and 45 minutes later I was back in business. Got the new KRC dual pulley installed (I had to use the bushing that came with the pulley):


Then installed the serpentine belt & then the small belt for the KRC PS Pump:


Lastly, pushed the pump over to the left as far as it could go and tightended the bolts.
Here's the final result:

[dbo_texas]

This weekend I spent some time on some easy stuff --> drilling and mounting the access panels. Some will be riveted, some will be mounted using screws (for easy removal/access).

First up was the panel on the front of the driver footbox. This will get siliconed+riveted during final panel assembly:


Next up was the access panel in the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. This will be screwed on for access so I used 10-24 rivet nuts + screws to mount. I will replace the panhead screws with some black low-profile head screws later.


Next up was the fuel pump / filter access panel on the rear trunk aluminum. Also wanted access, so these are mounted with 10-24 rivet nuts + screws.



Then I did the upper footbox access panel. I ran into an issue with the rivet nut installation tool --> I applied too much force on the handles and ended up snapping off the mandrel. It took a surprisingly small amount of force on the handle to break it. Luckily, Amazon sells replacement mandrels for about $7 so after 1 day I was back in business and finished it up.


Again...these panhead screws will be replaced with some low-profile black screws so it looks nice and they won't stand out so much:


These panels are all easy to mount. Next up: heater+defroster & wiper motor install

[dbo_texas]

I had been debating installing an A/C system, but ultimately opted for just the heater. It requires less install and less plumbing than the A/C, and without a top I don't think the A/C will do much good. Anyhow, I bought the FFR heater/defroster from someone on the forum, and started mounting it this weekend. Here are a few things I learned:

I knew that installing the heater would be an issue for the carbon fiber dash with glovebox. There are 2 ways to address this.
Option 1 - reduce the depth of the glovebox significantly so it clears the heater plenum. For this option, you only get about 1" of usable glove box depth. This is enough for insurance and registration cards, maybe a pair of sun glasses, but that's about it.
Option 2 - build a box to push the heater assembly further into the engine bay. This option requires a fair amount of fabrication to make the push-out box and you would have to cut a much larger hole in the firewall to allow the entire assembly (including custom box) to punch through. Not super difficult, but a fair amount of extra work.

I elected to go with option 1 and shorten the actual glove box behind the dash. I don't see a need for a ton of glove box storage given that I have the RT drop trunk and Breeze cockpit cubby for storage. Making the glove box shorter seems pretty straight forward and I plan to do this at a later date. Based on where the heater plenums are, you pretty much have to shorted the glove box tub to only be about 1" --> basically get rid of the separate plastic tub that comes with the FFR carbon fiber dash, and just leave the ~ 1" carbon fiber lip and then add a rear panel to close it off. I will need to figure out how best to mount that panel to the back of the lip and make it look nice from the inside.

I also learned that the template provided in the install instructions are not even close to exact. Good thing I checked this before I started cutting holes in the firewall. I made a new template using the actual heater unit, and then cut the holes in the firewall for the screws, water lines, and airflow path. I didn't end up final-mounting this yet because my engine will need to come up so I can button up the engine bay panels. So for now it is just sitting there, but when I'm ready I will RTV seal the inside unit to the inner firewall face (per the instructions), and screw the blower unit onto the engine bay side.

Firewall cuts

Another thing I learned --> the firewall support bracket (attached to the angled 3/4" frame tube) will be in the way of the heater hose, so I'll either need to add and access hole or remove the bracket completely.

This shows a top view - you can see how close the heater body is to the carbon fiber return lip on the glove box opening. There is about 1.25-1.5" from the front face of the dash to the heater plenum body.

And this is what it looks like from the cockpit side --> you can see how the heater body comes right up behind the dash.

[dbo_texas]

I'm too excited about this not to share. For a long time I wanted high back seats (for safety reasons). There are quite a few options people have fit into the Roadster, but by far my favorite is these Intatrim Stoneleigh seats. They are narrower at the top than most, so fit well around the body. This seat to my knowledge has only been used in a few FFR roadsters, but they look killer. My inspiration came from forum member Hacksaw84 who has an amazing interior which has been features in many videos and magazine articles like this one. I also knew I wanted to go with saddle leather, regardless of my paint scheme. I'm going to attempt to mount these with the Breeze seat mounts which I already bought....if it doesn't work out I may need to fab something custom (like Hacksaw84 did HERE). I plan to pair these with silver/gray colored harness to match the silver stitching.

Since this pic was taken they've added the shoulder grommets (per the concept art). I worked with their designer on the stitching, thread colors, and then selected the saddle leather from one of their raw leather suppliers. I'm pretty stoked. Both DS & PS seats have heater pads wired in as well. I'm getting an extra half-hide of matching leather shipped to me with the seats so I can have matching door cards, shifter boot, ebrake boot, and maybe a few other accents. I'm still a little ways off from starting the interior but this is pretty cool I had to share.

Concept art vs. "almost finished" seat - still missing the shoulder grommets which have been added but I don't have a picture yet:


Close-up of the stitching colors and saddle leather:


And close-up of the Cobra logo stitching:

[dbo_texas]

Today I received the custom Stoneleigh Intatrim seats. I'm super pleased with how they turned out. I also got an extra piece of matching hide to cover some of the accent pieces like door cards, shifter boot, e-brake boot, and possibly trans tunnel although I'm still debating coving that with leather or trying to match the carbon fiber on the dash (satin finish). Anyhow, here are the finished seats - they even flipped the Cobra logo!





I also decided to bump the heater out into the engine bay by a few inches, as others have done, so that I can at least keep a few inches of the glove box. I modeled this up and it's getting fabbed at Send-Cut-Send (online shop that can laser cut and bend pieces). I could make this myself but the price was fairly cheap to get it made so I went ahead and farmed it out. I'll post some updates once I've integrated the heater and mounted this to the firewall. This will install from the glovebox side so that the flanges are mounted to the inside of the firewall (not visible from engine bay). I think the final placement of the heater will have one of the ports coming out right about where the dash support tube is, so I will likely need to make a 3D printed joggle adapter to reroute around the tube.

[Sarcasticshrub]

Those seats. Wow. Just wow. They look fantastic!

[dbo_texas]

Not much to update - haven't had a free weekend to work on the car the last few weeks. I did receive the prototype heater box today. I ordered this from an online vendor - you send the flat pattern and they'll laser cut and bend it up. Its fairly simple and could have very easily made this on my own but I just don't have time at the moment so I hit the "easy button". Prices was less than $50 shipped so it was a no brainer for me. It turned out great and I'm hoping to cut the opening in the firewall and mount the heater this weekend. I'll post some updates when its done.





This isn't the final position --> it will punch through the firewall and hang into the engine bay by about 2". With this I should be able to keep at least 2.5"-3" of glovebox depth, vs. the 1" I would have without this bump-out. I'll need to make sure the windshield wiper motor clears it too.

[dbo_texas]

For those wondering, here are the steps I followed to mount the heater with the bump-out box. This entire effort was actually a lot more involved than I originally thought, and took a fair amount of time to complete.

STEP 1 - lay out the provided template and cut the two 1.25" holes. Warning: Do NOT drill the screw mounting holes or the rectangular cutout --> these vary on each unit so if you cut the holes with the template they will NOT align with your heater.


STEP 2 - mount the paper template to the side of the heater that goes behind the dash (i.e. the plenum side, not the side with the blower), and then cut the rectangular hole and punch holes in the paper for all the screw holes. After punching holes in the paper template to match the actual heater, transfer it back to the bump-out box and you can go ahead and drill the holes and cut the square cutout in the metal


STEP 3 - Do a fit check to make sure the heater can be mounted. I actually had a flaw in my bump-out box design - I didn't account for the severe angle that the heater plenum is at vs. the panel mount face. So it didn't fit into my box. I had to unbend the upper flange to about 75° (vs. 90°). Luckily I had enough material that I could still get some rivets into the flange after this, so no big deal. You can see this at the top of the image on the right:


STEP 4 - I made a cardboard template of the bump-out box cutout needed so I could tape it to the firewall. I traced the opening and made the cut in the firewall, then mounted the box.


STEP 5 - After the cut, I test fit the box into the firewall and drilled my mounting holes.


STEP 6 - Time to mount the heater to the bump-out box. I'm choosing to screw the bump-out box to the firewall vs. riveting, so that I can easily remove it in the future if needed. I will also temp mount this, as I will probably remove it when I pull the engine out to finish riveting all the engine bay panels.


At this point, I needed to evaluate the glove box fit. When I designed the bump-out box, I made it about 2" deep, knowing it wouldn't quite be enough to fully clear the glove box. I just didn't want to run into the engine so I left about 15mm shorter than I think I needed. At this point I re-mounted the glove box and found that the dash sits about 12mm off the 3/4" frame tube. This is the minimum amount I'd need to shorten the glove box to clear the heater box. See next post for how I addressed the glove box interference.

[dbo_texas]

With the heater installed, now it was time to address the glove box. I needed to shorten it by 12mm bare minimum - that would but the back of the glove box touching the heater plenum body. I elected to shorted the glovebox by 20mm so that I had some extra clearance. To do this, here are the steps I took.

STEP 1 - mark the glovebox, and used a jigsaw to cut 20mm off the rear. To get the blade started, I just cut a small slit using a Dremel cut-off wheel. The jigsaw cuts the plastic like butter. This leaves a 20mm deep flange on the back cap piece that gets removed. My plan was to re-use this back piece and mount it inside the glovebox (STEP 2)


STEP 2 - using a blow torch, I heated up the flanges on the rear piece that I had just removed, and press-fit it through the front opening of the glove box until it was flat and flush with the rear cut edge. By heating up the plastic, it basically allows it to deform to the sides of the glovebox and create a nice tight fit. I secured the rear piece to the sides by drilling holes all around and then riveting them together. This provides a pretty clean look from the inside of the glovebox. You could paint the rivet heads black if desired, but I left them bare aluminum.


STEP 3 - remount the glovebox and mount the dash. This is the end result. Overall I have about a 1/4" gap between the glove box and heater body:


The remaining depth of the glove box is about 3" --> this is plenty for storing insurance cards, small tools, charging cables, etc. I'm pretty happy with the end result - looks clean and is also still functional.

[Its Bruce]

Have you mounted the seats to the Breeze mounts yet?

[dbo_texas]

Have you mounted the seats to the Breeze mounts yet?

No I haven't done a fit check yet with the Breeze mounts.

[dbo_texas]

With the heater bump-out box installed, next up I tackled the wiper motor installation. This was pretty straight forward, I just had to do it after the heater box because I needed to know how much to angle is so that the drive cable would clear the box. I did purchase some 5/16 nicopp tubing that I will use to route the cable (replacing the 5/16 stainless tubing that came with the wiper kit). Per several builders, the nicopp is much easier to bend vs. the stainless, and performs the same function just as well as the stainless.

Starting out, I put some tape on the firewall so I wouldn't scratch it up. Then positioned the wiper motor and angled it so the drive cable just clears the heater box. I'll need to put about a 15°-20° bend in the nicopp shroud in this area. It's been done before and I checked with a few others that have done similar, and they say this doesn't cause any issues with wiper function. I marked my holes and drilled clearance holes for 5/16-18 bolts to go through. Just based on my positioning of the motor, the lower hole actually goes through the center of the 3/4" frame tube. I originally planned to just tap the threads in the 3/4" tube, but instead opted to drill all the way through. I had to get a new bolt which was 1/2" longer than the ones that came with the wiper kit.


Here's the installed motor. The bolts are secured on the backside using large washers and nyloc nuts.




I need to pull the heater and wiper motor off soon so I can drill the holes for the Coyote and RF harnesses into the firewall. When I remove those I'll pull off the tape before re-installing them.

[dbo_texas]

This was a simple one. Not much to it really --> I installed it per the location in the FFR instructions, essentially aligning the lower rear ECU mounting hole with the front of the PS footbox. I've seen some people say it is difficult to install the Coyote harness connectors because the 3/4" vertical frame tube just in front of the ECU gets in the way. If that happens, I can easily remove the ECU, plug in the cables, then re-mount. Or I can add some small spacers to raise the ECU off the bracket a but and maybe gain some clearance. We'll see when I get to that point.

Bracket held on with clecos for now --> I'll rivet it once I check that harness plug after I run electrical. To mount the ECU, I used bolts + nyloc nuts on the backside. I considered using rivet nuts on the mounting bracket instead of the loose nyloc nuts, but in the end I stuck with the loose nuts. I may change my mind later --> if anyone has a good argument for using rivnuts instead, let me hear it!

[dbo_texas]

Not much to update - I disassembled all the items in the engine bay that I think would interfere with removing the engine/trans. I borrowed a 2 ton lift from a neighbor, just haven't had a free weekend to actually pull the engine out yet. I think the front brake lines may also be in the way, so I'll probably disconnect those and just push them out of the way. Other items removed: triple reservoir, heater, firewall, hood hinges, disconnected steering shaft, radiator, coolant expansion tank


Also, I finally put some clearcoat on the color samples. They look pretty good but unfortunately there are several that I really like so I still have no idea what color scheme I'm going to go with. Was hoping that after adding the clear coat there would be a front runner, but all I did was successfully add even more options that I like.
Before clearcoat:

After clearcoat:

1. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = white
2. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2019 Honda Civic: Tonic Yellow Pearl Y78P
3. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief Blue PQB + Porsche Chalk
4. Base = 2022 Honda Civic: Sonic Gray Pearl NH877P / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief Blue PQB
5. Base = 2022 Kia Telluride: Everlasting Gray Metallic ERG / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief PQB + 2011 Acura Mdx: Palladium Metallic NH743M
6. Base = 2017 Porsche 911: Graphitblau Metallic A7/ Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Porsche 911: Miamiblau J5 + Porsche Chalk
7. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Kia Telluride: Wolf Gray Metallic C7S
8. Base = 2015 Honda Cr-V: Mountain Air Metallic BG62M / Stripes = 2011 Acura Mdx: Palladium Metallic NH743M

[dbo_texas]

Arrived back from my vacation to Mexico to find my Herb's carbon fiber door cards had arrived. When I ordered my Intatrim Stoneleigh seats, I ordered an extra half-hide of raw leather knowing I wanted to match some of the other interior accents, including the door cards. I shipped Herb some leather pieces (he told me the sizes he needed), and he built these for me, including the carbon fiber insert to match the dash. He even added the elastic to the pocket which I wasn't sure he'd be able to do with the saddle leather. They turned out great.

Here is an image of the 1/2 hide. I cut some rectangular sections per Herb's required dimensions: 2 pieces 16"x24", and 2 pieces 8"x16" (I added 1 extra inch to each dimension so Herb could do the final cut/fitment):


Here is the finished carbon fiber door card. He was able to match the satin finish on the CF inserts so that it matches the FFR CF dash exactly:


Here's the matching seats for reference:


I'm also planning to do a diamond stitch with the same leather on the transmission tunnel, and also the shifter and e-brake boots.

[dbo_texas]

I've been trying to get to this for the last several weeks but kids sports (softball tournaments, swim meets, and basketball tournaments) plus a vacation to Mexico have wiped out my weekends pretty much since Summer started. Anyhow, this weekend we finally had a break so I decided to tackle this before I go out of town for work. I need to remove the engine for 2 reasons:

1. So that I can silicone+rivet all the engine bay panels
2. So I can run power cables from the front battery box to the firewall, as well as many of the other electrical harnesses (just easier access with the engine removed)

I borrowed a neighbor's 2-ton lift for the job. I have a 1.5 ton Harbor Freight lift, but with the boom arm fully extended (required to reach the engine), you are at the 1/4 ton setting which is right about how much the Coyote + trans weighs. I know its possible, as this is the lift used to install the engine, but since I was able to borrow the larger lift for free, I no longer need to worry about it tipping due to the weight so it seemed like a no brainer. With the 2 ton lift, when the boom arm is extended all the way it is at a 1/2 ton setting which is way above what the Coyote+trans weights (~650 lbs I believe).

First step was to remove the shifter. Simply remove the 6x bolts on the shifter cover, then tap with a rubber hammer and it pops right off. When I reinstall it later (after engine re-install), I'll make sure to reseal this cover with a bed of RTP gasketing.


I bought a leveler on Amazon and mounted it to the engine using the Coyote lift brackets, when get mounted to the engine with some M14 bolts. I got the lift brackets and FFR Coyote stand from someone on this forum (for free - I just paid shipping). The lever works OK, but the handle hits the chains so I just bent it out about 30° and it still cranks OK. To pull the engine was a 2-man job, although I've seen some folks do it solo. We used a lot of micro-adjustments and I supported the trans using my jack until it was free. From there it took a few height adjustments on the frame to get the engine to clear - this was mostly because the crane was hitting my garage door at the top. Ultimately we got it out in about 20-30 minutes. Here's a video time lapse of the process:


After we pulled it out, we needed to mount it to the FFR Coyote stand. Here is where I ran into a few issues.

1. I needed to remove all the header studs from the engine --> it's difficult to get the stand installed with those on, plus I planned on swapping those with bolts anyways.
2. The T56 doesn't seem to align with the little brackets on the back of the FFR stand. I think they were meant for a TKO600 or maybe TKX, but not the T56. I had to remove them because they were interfering with the clutch fork hydraulic piston assembly.
3. The FFR engine stand was hitting the oil filter on the front passenger side --> I had to remove that to be able to install the stand. I've seen i.e. 427 Garage's Coyote install video and he leaves the oil filter in place, so maybe my filter is just larger diameter? Eh...I removed it and it fit so not problem.

Here are some reference images of the Coyote + T56 on the FFR Coyote stand. I couldn't find any good pics online so maybe this will help someone in the future. Seems to be well support and in no danger of tipping, but put a 2x4 under the trans tail anyways for storage.



Here's a before/after pic:


And here is a pic showing how I'm storing the engine while I work on electrical and engine bay prep...making the most of the space I have. This allows my wife to still pull her car into the other bay of the garage.


Here is a pic of the Coyote + T56 in all it's glory - just because this thing is a beast:


Final wrap up: Removing the engine wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, which gives me confidence that re-installing it will be OK too. I took my time, and had a 2nd set of hands which I would recommend. One person mostly operated the crane, while the other managed moving the engine/trans around to clear items in the engine bay. I would recommend you remove anything that will get in the way before starting this --> for me it was the firewall which had the heater box & wiper motor, the triple reservoir, radiator + expansion tank, hood hinges, disconnect steering shaft, disconnect brake hard lines in the front (will depend on your routing). Also, that FFR coyote stand is laser cut steel....and it is super sharp. After removing the engine, I took off my gloves thinking I was done. Then my buddy reminded me to re-install 2 bolts on the trans that we pulled off thinking we had figured out where the engine stand brackets in the rear could attach. So I went to go reinstall those, and the wrench slipped and my hand bashed into the engine stand. Sliced it open pretty good and resulted in a trip to the ER with 3 stitches and a tetanus shot. So moral of the story - wear mechanics gloves any time you are working!!! Not a snake bit....but now I can officially say I have blood, sweat & (no tears yet....):

[dbo_texas]

Index (will keep this updated as the build progresses)
#2 - Kit pickup
#19 - hoist body to ceiling - frame on jackstands
#31 - stripping POR15 from aluminum panels
#37 - Tank Removal & Kleiner Quick Jack Mod
#38 - Russ Thompson Drop Trunk Kit Install
#44 - Breeze Cockpit Cubby / Breeze Rack Travel Limiters & Offset Bushings
#57 - Front Suspension Re-Do
#58 - Russ Thompson Turn Signal System
#64 - FFR Carbon Fiber Dash Install
#65 - Under-dash Filler Panel Install
#66 - NRG Quick Release Install + Russ Thompson Turn Signal
#68 - Breeze front battery box
#72 - Hidden Dash Mount (3m Dual Lock Velcro)
#73 - Aluminum panel powder coating
#79 - Fuel filler neck grommet replacement
#80 - Breeze Fuel Filter, Regulator and Single Line Kit Install (Gen2) Coyote
#83 - Fuel tank mounting + issues
#85 - Fuel tank vent activated charcoal filter
#89 - Carbon fiber dash gauge install
#90 - Brake line flaring & bending
#91 - Brake line routing
#94 - Brake-Clutch Triple Reservoir Install
#95, #99, - Hydroboost Pushrod Adjustment
#100 - Fuel Line Routing - 3/8 SS Braided PTFE
#101, #109 - Clutch Safety Switch Mounting
#104, #108 - Brake Pedal position adjust w/ hydroboost
#110, #111 - Radiator Mount - Breeze Fan Shroud + Upper/Lower Mounts
#112 - Hood Hinges Installation
#114, #120- Mishimoto Coolant Expansion Tank MMRT-MUS-15EBK Install
#121 - KRC Coyote Power Steering Kit Install
#122 - Access Panel Installation
#123, #127, #128, #129 - Heater Installation (multiple posts)
#125 - Intatrim Stoneleigh Custom Saddle Leather Seats
#129 - Shortening Glove Box Mod (to fit heater)
#132 - Wiper Motor Install
#133 - Coyote ECU Install
#134 - Color Spray-outs and Engine Removal Prep
#135 - Herb's Door Cards - Carbon Fiber w/ custom saddle leather
#136 - Coyote + T56 Engine-Trans Removal
#139 - E-Brake mounting bracket removal
#143 - Master Cutoff Switch and USB Ports
#145 - Aluminum panel final install - footboxes and cockpit
#146 - Courtesy light install

[dbo_texas]

#147, #148 - Wiring Planning
#162 - Dash wiring
#162 - Coyote ECU & Chassis Power Wiring
#169 - Drivetrain install (engine/T56 prep and initial install)
#170 - Headers, driveshaft IRS adapter, driveshaft install
#171 - T56 interference, A-frame Modification, Transmission Mount, Driveshaft Installation
#172 - Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop install

[dbo_texas]

The T56 transmission hits the e-brake mounting bracket which is welded to the frame on the PS of the trans tunnel. The stock location is fine for TKO500/600 and TKX transmissions, but not the T56. So now that I finally got the engine & trans removed, I decided to use the July 4th holiday to cut this bracket off the frame. My plan is to mount the stock FFR e-brake handle to the top of the trans tunnel --> not sure which side yet. I think I prefer the PS toward the rear because it seems that would put it within perfect reach, but I may mock it up, put my seat in and determine if I like that location.

To remove the stock bracket from the frame, I started with a Dremel + cutoff wheel, but the welds on this bracket were so large it was taking forever, so I brought out my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. That made pretty quick work of it, but I did have to put in a new cutoff wheel which had a large enough diameter to cut all the way through the flange. After removing it, I used a large file to trim down some of the leftover metal, and finished it off with the angle grinder + sanding disc. After it was cleaned up and smooth, I sprayed a thick coat of Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black - P/N 263422 spray paint which is a pretty decent match to the FFR frame powder coat. I'll need to make a patch panel to cover up the side of the hole on the trans tunnel, but I have plenty of leftover aluminum I can use for that and the part should be easy to make using a cardboard template.

[Its Bruce]

FYI - I installed my Stoneleigh seats with the Breeze mounts this past weekend. Let me know if you need photos.

[dbo_texas]

FYI - I installed my Stoneleigh seats with the Breeze mounts this past weekend. Let me know if you need photos.

Yeah I'd definitely like to see some photos to see how you mounted them. Did you just drop through the seat pan? I'll send you a DM with my email.

[dbo_texas]

I mocked up the location of my FFR e-brake mounted on the PS of the top of the trans tunnel. I'm using all stock FFR parts currently. My main issue right now is that I need to shorten the FFR cable length significantly. I'm a little worried about putting a good crimp on the end - something that will hold under the tension of the actuated brake. Some folks on the FF Builder Facebook page said to use nicopress sleeves and call it a day - they look pretty straight forward to crimp on with the right tool. The alternative is to use the Wilwood Universal Parking Brake Cable Kit 330-9371 which has a clamp style block to interface w/ the cable (no crimping required). But that kit is pricey ($100 - $160). All I really need is the clamping block so I may try the nicopress sleeves first and if they don't work I can always buy the Wilwood kit.

Assembly: For some reason I actually have QTY 2 of the FFR e-brake kits (p/n 15183). I see it on the original builder's POL list...so maybe he actually had it and missed it, then FFR shipped him another one. One small modification I made was to put two nylon washers on each side of the ratchet pawl. Without those, the pawl had a ton of left-to-right play, and seemed like it was just barely grabbing the teeth. With the washers, it feels rock solid. You can just see a little bit of the white nylon washers I added peaking out in the pics below.








OK so here is an interesting view --> I overlaid an image (white outline) I had of when the engine+T56 trans was installed, and turned that image transparent and then scaled it and positioned it so the 3/4 frame bars lined up pretty close with my new picture of the e-brake install. I'm trying to see if there would be any interference issues with the transmission and my e-brake location. Looks OK as far as I can tell from this picture. We'll see when I put the engine back in.


And here's a video showing the actuation. Anyone see any issues with my plan to try cutting the cables shorter & crimping them? Seems like this will let me keep all the stock FFR hardware.

[dbo_texas]

Today I installed a couple of the electrical items - didn't take very long and I only had about an hour to spare so this was a good little project to keep the build moving forward. I used the 1000A Hella billet cutoff switch from Northracecar. It's a nice looking switch and installs easily by drilling 3 holes, and then it mounts with 2 screws from the rear that drive into the billet cover on the front. It comes with both the red plastic key and a billet aluminum key which looks really nice.


Closeup of the engine side:


Front side w/ the key in off/on positions:


After this was complete I installed a combo 12V + USB port at the rear of the trans tunnel. I do plan to add another USB port on the bottom side of the dash filler panel so I can charge my phone when mounted to a holder on the dash. I plan to use these USB ports for potentially charging stuff that is stored in the cockpit cubby. I have ideas about maybe mounting a portable Bluetooth speaker in the cubby (strapped down) so this would give me an easy way to charge it periodically.







I also installed a dual USB port on the under-dash filler panel so I can have a power cable to my phone holder which I still need to figure out how/where to mount. I have 2 holes drilled - one is centered, and the other is biased toward the driver side. I'm thinking I will use the center location but not sure yet. Need to finalize all the other switches on the dash bump-out and then I'll decide.


Still thinking about the parking brake situation...my general thoughts are that I might end up moving it to the DS of the trans tunnel because there is more room on that side vs. the PS due to how the T56 sits biased to the PS. The mounting would be the same, just reversed. I think because of the 3/4" cross brace locations on the DS, I'd need to move it up significantly and I'm a little worried the handle won't clear the dash lip. I've seen other mount the Lokar handle in that position but I think its maybe a little shorter. I need to play with this a little more and do a test fit. I also think I might buy the Lokar brake cable kit because many people have said it is much easier to adjust than the FFR kit, and you don't need to crimp any wires because it uses a clamp style block. There are knockoff kits on Amazon which look identical but cost about 1/3 what the Lokar kit costs so I might go that route.

[Its Bruce]

My suggestion: go electric on the parking brake and get rid of the handle entirely. If I did it all over again, I'd run the actuator in the rear fender instead of in the trunk area.

[dbo_texas]

I got to spend a solid day getting the panels permanently mounted with silicone + rivets. I used the GE Silicone II (clear). Most of the rivets are the shorter 1/4" grip, but pretty much anything going into the 4" round frame tube, 2"x2" frame tube, or steel seat pan used the longer 3/8" grip length. I didn't mount the trunk floor yet because I need to run the rear chassis harness first, so that will go in later. Feels good to finally get these installed in preparation of the harness routing. Here are some reference pics in case it helps anyone:

Footboxes: I left the DS outer panel off for now so I still have access to the pedal box


Firewall & Coyote PDB fuse bracket (custom):


Cockpit rear wall:


Cockpit floor


More cockpit


Transmission tunnel:


Under-dash filler panel and firewall support bracket:


Next Up:

• Install cockpit heat/sound insulation
• Installing the Coyote power wires and Coyote harness
• Installing chassis harness
• Finish final assembly on the dash. I bought all new '65 Mustang switches, knobs and bezels because I wanted all of them to match, vs. the hodge podge of mix-n-match parts FFR provides. It's going to look pretty sweet when it's all put together (coming in a later post).

[dbo_texas]

Over the weekend I installed some courtesy lights. I placed 4 on the dash, and 2 on each side of the trunk. I may put a couple in the engine bay as well. I bought a 10-pack from Amazon. Easy to install - they are epoxy sealed and come with a rubber grommet for installation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1?ie=UTF8&th=1


Dash locations - After installing my dash switches however, I may need to shuffle the LEDs around a bit so they aren't in the way. An example is the headlight switch which mounts really deep into the dash and might interfere. But adding a new LED locations is as simple as drilling a new hole in the under-dash filler panel, so no biggie.


Trunk PS:


Trunk DS:

[dbo_texas]

I've been reviewing the schematics for the different harnesses and connectors, and trying to figure out what to modify and what to add. Here's the general plan - as a reminder I have a Gen 2 Coyote + T56. I'd like any input/feedback on the plan below - if any advice or recommendations to improve, please reply to my thread. I highlighted a couple of questions I either haven't had time to investigate yet or couldn't find details on the forum. Big shoutout to edwardb, JohnK & 460-465USMC build threads for a lot of the excellent details. Apologies if I screw up some of this below - it most definitely isn't your fault but my own so feel free to set me straight.

Power Wiring
I plan to pretty much mimic what edwardb did on this build #8674 (reference). For the most part this is straight forward.

• Run #2 AWG from battery to master cuttoff unswitched side
• Run #4 AWG from same terminal (unswitched side of master cutoff switch) to 250A mega fuse, then over to PDB front terminal
• Run #4 AWG from master disconnect switched side (upper post) left to the starter on the PS side of engine (run w/ Coyote harness ground wire & starter wire from Coyote ECU leg of the Coyote harness)
• Breakout the starter power and starter wire near the starter motor and continue the Coyote harness ground to the main chassis ground point located near the front battery (tap 4in frame tube)
• Connect #2 AWG or #4 AWG to main chassis ground point (tapped threads on 4" frame tube)
• I don't have a cable crimper for the large AWG cable lugs, so I might buy the Fusion solder lugs instead of buying more tools (TBD).

Coyote Harness

• Reroute the long blunt cut black #10 AWG ground wire with the main battery feed cable along the frame and terminate at the Ø4" tube ground location (near battery). This should break out of the Coyote harness at the loom split near the firewall. This wire is hanging out, already split at the firewall breakout --> will I need to extend this (it isn't long enough to reach the front ground point)?
• Reroute the blue start signal wire from the ECU leg of the harness to break out at the loom near the firewall and run this down the main power loom (new) with the ground wire & main battery feed --> break it out of the loom near the starter location. Will need to unwrap the ECU leg to get this free and reroute.
• Breakout the orange fan power wire (#10 AWG) from the ECU leg, and create a new loom extension to run it to the front and then down to the radiator fan
• Add a new wire to the new cooling fan leg back to the dash so I can connect my dash "fan running" indicator lamp. You will need to do this while the ECU leg of the harness is unwrapped
• May need to strip back the dash side of the harness loom to relocate some items (TBD) Here are some examples I may want to relocate: OBD2 port, MIL, throttle DBW, and clutch bottom switch area all grouped together. Throttle & clutch switches need to go to DS footbox, MIL & OBD2 can mount under the dash somewhere -->edwardB puts OBD2 over by the glove box but others put it under the steering column. Either is fine….just need to lay it out and evaluate if I need to break the harness apart and relocate stuff.
• Connect the Blue SMR Start Request from 16-way connector to the Blue EFI Crank wire in the RF harness --> is this Blue EFI Crank wire connected to the "START" terminal on the ignition?
• OK to cut the factory oil pressure sensor connector off the Coyote Harness (will use the Speedhut oil pressure sender instead), heat shrink the wires & wrap it into the harness loom. Or you can just leave the connector and tie it off somewhere out of the way. You can wrap this entire leg back into that portion of the harness which then needs to route over to the exhaust O2 sensor --> there is advantage to this because DW O2 sensor is on this leg, and if you don't need to plug in the Coyote harness oil pressure plug you can reroute it so the length is OK per JohnK (reference post #195)
• For splicing into the cylinder tach wire, consider using Posi-Tap (per JohnK post #192) or T-Taps

RF Chassis Harness

• Plan to remove the 33 hotrod leg of the harness (not needed). --> Are any of these on fused circuits? If so, I might want to keep them for other stuff.
• The starter leg of the harness (3 red wires, one blue solenoid start wire) can be re-routed to the Blue Seas busbar instead of to the starter solenoid (I will run a separate #4 cable from master disconnect to starter motor, and then #8 from this same place to the Blue Seas Busbar). So this one isn't really removed, just not routed through the firewall with the included 1.25" grommet. The Blue Solenoid Start wire in this leg can be capped and tied out of the way (or dieted out) - it won't be used w/ the Coyoted build
• For the alternator leg, I think I have two options:
• OPTION 1 - Remove alternator feed wire from the loom and route this to the alternator with the sender unit harness.
• OPTION 2 - keep this leg on the main chassis harness, and add the sender unit harness wires to this leg --> I think I'm leaning toward this option because it eliminates the separate sending unit harness (either way they all go to the same place, so I don't need both the alternator leg of the main chassis harness and the separate sender unit harness so I plan to merge them. Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it?
• I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm?
• OK to cut & cap off the 2 blue clutch safety wires in the RF harness (I'll be using the clutch bottom switch on the Coyote harness instead)
• Orange cooling fan wire --> since this is a fused circuit and I don't need it to run the fan (that will be controlled by the Coyote harness), I can use this to power the seat heaters. I Plan to break out of the harness and route along outside of trans tunnel on either side (extend as necessary)
• I'll check ignition and headlight leg lengths --> might be possible to shorten these based on where my switches are on the dash.
• I'm planning to use the tan electric choke wire (10 amp fused) for the Coyote light green Ignition Relay Trigger --> FFR instructions say to use COIL/EFI (15 A fused) bus I plan to use that for my footbox fan blowers. As long as I'm using a source for the Ignition Relay Trigger which is +12V when ignition is on, that should be OK right? I think the tan choke wire meets the criteria.

*continued in next post - exceeded post 10,000 character limit*

[dbo_texas]

*wiring plan continued*

Sender Unit Harness
As mentioned above, I think I'll pull these wires out of the loom and route them with the alternator leg of the main RF chassis harness. Any reason this is a bad idea?
For the sending unit wires (oil pressure, water temp), I think there are 2 options again.

• OPTION 1 (my preference) - Use the RF sender unit wires (oil pressure, water temp). I think this just means I need to terminate the dash side of those wires with the Speedhut Vintage Gauge connectors. Is that correct?
• OPTION 2 - use the sender wires that came with the gauges

Front Harness
The only thing I think I need to modify on this are:

• Possibly shorten the ends to the headlights, horn, etc. and add Weather Pack connectors on the ends for connecting the lights
• Add wires to this loom for the DS footbox blower (the PS wire might need to route w/ the Coyote harness ECU leg and break out with the cooling fan wire)

Rear Harness

• OK to remove Speedo wire (don't need w/ GPS gauge) or cap & tie off
• Add wires for the +12V for USB ports on trans tunnel - I plan to use the existing radio circuit in RF chassis harness - would the fuse rating on this be sufficient to power 3 USB ports? 2 in the trans tunnel, one on the dash?
• Add wires for the +12V courtesy light power for trunk & cockpit cubby (tap into existing RF circuit for courtesy lights)
• Add wires to harness for reverse lights --> need a fused Ign. switched +12v feed to the transmission reverse switch, and the subsequent +12v switched (via the transmission) feed to the rear of the car. (per FixIt post #165) - I'm not fully understanding what is needed here so need to research a bit more. Anyone has details/ideas on this, let me know
• Possibly shorten the tail light/ brake light legs, and maybe add Weather Pack connectors on the ends for connecting to the lights

Dash & Gauges - Speedhut Vintage GPS

• can eliminate the speedo wire from rear harness - not needed w/ GPS
• will power the GPS & clock using HAAT from Coyote harness. Could also use RF chassis harness radio memory right?
• I switched the stock FFR ignition, headlight switch, and wiper switch to use '65 Mustang switches. The terminals are slightly different so I need to figure out how to wire these up. I think the '65 Painless Wiring Harness instructions have pinout diagrams for these, so I still need to try and map these over to FFR harness wires. If anyone has already one this, please share the details (otherwise I'll post later how they map over)!

New stuff I'll be adding (i.e. not part of kit)

• Run #2 AWG ground cable from battery to Ø4" frame tube near battery (#4 AWG should also be OK).
• Run #2 AWG battery cable from positive battery lead to master disconnect non-switched post (lower post)
• Run short #4 AWG battery cable from master disconnect non-switched post (lower post) to the 250A mega fuse below PDB
• Run #4 AWG battery cable from 250A mega fuse to PDB front power tap
• Run new #4 AWG cable from master disconnect switched side (upper post) left to the starter on left side of engine (run w/ Coyote harness ground wire & starter wire from Coyote ECU leg of the harness)
• Run #8 AWG cable from master disconnect switched side (upper post) to the right and merge into the rear harness and enter the footbox, then break out of rear harness and route up to the Blue Seas busbar. This will serve as the main +12V feed to the RF harness.
• On the Blue Seas busbar (added), connect +12V from switched side of master disconnect (per item above), and then connect the three +12V wires from the RF harness (Red Battery Feed, Red Alternator Feed, and Red Ignition Switch Feed) - these are on the starter leg of the RF harness and can be rerouted to the busbar --> note the Red Alternator Feed should go through a 150A mega fuse before it gets to the busbar
• Neutral Safety Switch --> I plan to splice 2 wires into the Coyote Bottom Clutch Switch and run them to the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission. This puts the Neutral Safety Switch in parallel to the clutch switch, and when EITHER switch is closed, the circuit will close and the ECU will allow the car to start. Does this plan seem like it will work as intended? While not necessary since I have the clutch switch, it would allow me to start the car without being in the driver seat
• Add power wires for the footbox fresh air blowers --> as mentioned above I plan to use existing COIL/EFI circuit from RF fuse box for this functionality

[Its Bruce]

Most USB's have a 2.5A max rating. How does 7.5A compare to your USB fuse?

What's the reason for the backup lights?

The neutral switch seems like overkill, but that's just my opinion. I guess you'd wire it in parallel with the clutch switch so either/or would be required to start the car; are you planning a remote start?

[dbo_texas]

Most USB's have a 2.5A max rating. How does 7.5A compare to your USB fuse?

What's the reason for the backup lights?

The neutral switch seems like overkill, but that's just my opinion. I guess you'd wire it in parallel with the clutch switch so either/or would be required to start the car; are you planning a remote start?

USB: The RF schematic for the chassis harness shows this circuit is for Gauge feed & radio power (when ignition ON) --> shows a 10A fuse. I don't think the gauges draw very much, so I'm assuming the 10A is good to power them.
Reverse/Backup light: I need to get inspected in Texas and I think they are required (I haven't confirmed this yet, but planning for it)
Neutral switch - yes wiring it in parallel to clutch switch was recommend to me...I think edwardb suggested that as one option (there are other ways to do it). I realize its overkill...but want the flexibility to start the car without being in it. Not planning remote start function (but who knows...)

[Its Bruce]

I haven't inspected yet, but I don't believe back up lights are required because it wasn't provided by Shelby in 65.

[edwardb]

OPTION 1 (my preference) - Use the RF sender unit wires (oil pressure, water temp). I think this just means I need to terminate the dash side of those wires with the Speedhut Vintage Gauge connectors. Is that correct? Either way works. But this is how I've done my builds. I prefer the wires going through the dash connectors.

Connect the Blue SMR Start Request from 16-way connector to the Blue EFI Crank wire in the RF harness --> is this Blue EFI Crank wire connected to the "START" terminal on the ignition? Yes.

Add wires to harness for reverse lights --> need a fused Ign. switched +12v feed to the transmission reverse switch, and the subsequent +12v switched (via the transmission) feed to the rear of the car. (per FixIt post #165) - I'm not fully understanding what is needed here so need to research a bit more. Anyone has details/ideas on this, let me know. That's how I wired the backup lights in my Coupe. Works fine. Used LED lights so the current draw across the transmission switch is very low. Backup lights not required in Michigan. But I prefer them for safety plus future if it ever ends up in another state where they are required.

Plan to remove the 33 hotrod leg of the harness (not needed). --> Are any of these on fused circuits? If so, I might want to keep them for other stuff. They are all parallels to other existing circuits. Easiest is just to leave it. If you remove, trace the wires as far back as you’re comfortable and make sure the ends are capped/insulated. They are typically live circuits.

Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it? Don’t know. Depends on how you route it. No big deal to extend or replace.

I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm? Forte didn’t provide the Ford Performance Coyote specific alternator? Too bad. You won’t be able to use the Coyote harness connector that allows the PCM to control it. If it only has a single large lug for the 12V cable and nothing else, it’s a 1-wire.

I'm planning to use the tan electric choke wire (10 amp fused) for the Coyote light green Ignition Relay Trigger --> FFR instructions say to use COIL/EFI (15 A fused) bus I plan to use that for my footbox fan blowers. As long as I'm using a source for the Ignition Relay Trigger which is +12V when ignition is on, that should be OK right? I think the tan choke wire meets the criteria. I used the choke wire for my Coupe build. Works fine.

As mentioned above, I think I'll pull these wires out of the loom and route them with the alternator leg of the main RF chassis harness. Any reason this is a bad idea? Worked for me.

Add wires for the +12V for USB ports on trans tunnel - I plan to use the existing radio circuit in RF chassis harness - would the fuse rating on this be sufficient to power 3 USB ports? 2 in the trans tunnel, one on the dash? Depends on the amperage draw. USB plugs have a relatively low draw. That radio circuit may need a lower amp fuse to really offer the proper protection.

I will power the GPS & clock using HAAT from Coyote harness. Could also use RF chassis harness radio memory right? The Coyote HAAT is the better choice. The RF chassis HAAT will go off with the master disconnect the way you have it wired.

I switched the stock FFR ignition, headlight switch, and wiper switch to use '65 Mustang switches. The terminals are slightly different so I need to figure out how to wire these up. I think the '65 Painless Wiring Harness instructions have pinout diagrams for these, so I still need to try and map these over to FFR harness wires. If anyone has already one this, please share the details (otherwise I'll post later how they map over)! Can’t help you with much of that. Good luck with the wiper switch (getting it to park, etc.) and the headlight switch needs to be wired exactly like the AC-Delco version supplied with the kit to match the RF wiring scheme. Plus it has the internal circuit breaker for the headlights. Personally IMO that’s a lot of work just to have a different knob. Maybe graft the Mustang knob onto the kit supplied switch? In both cases.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Darryl,

Great work on all the planning for your electrical.

[*]Reroute the long blunt cut black #10 AWG ground wire with the main battery feed cable along the frame and terminate at the Ø4" tube ground location (near battery). This should break out of the Coyote harness at the loom split near the firewall. This wire is hanging out, already split at the firewall breakout --> will I need to extend this (it isn't long enough to reach the front ground point)?

I didn't see a response to this question. Yes, assuming the #10 AWG with your earlier version Coyote harness is the same as my Gen 3, it will easily reach a grounding point to the 4" chassis tube near the forward battery location.

[*]For the alternator leg, I think I have two options:[*]

OPTION 1 - Remove alternator feed wire from the loom and route this to the alternator with the sender unit harness.

[*]

OPTION 2 - keep this leg on the main chassis harness, and add the sender unit harness wires to this leg --> I think I'm leaning toward this option because it eliminates the separate sending unit harness (either way they all go to the same place, so I don't need both the alternator leg of the main chassis harness and the separate sender unit harness so I plan to merge them. Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it?

[*]I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm?

You may want to double check, because Forte supplied an alternator compliant with my Coyote harness. Check your alternator for a multi-pin plug that matches the one in the harness. In the picture below, it's the black connector (side view--right side of alternator directly below the +12V lug connection) where the harness plugs in.

[dbo_texas]

Hi Darryl,

Great work on all the planning for your electrical.



I didn't see a response to this question. Yes, assuming the #10 AWG with your earlier version Coyote harness is the same as my Gen 3, it will easily reach a grounding point to the 4" chassis tube near the forward battery location.



You may want to double check, because Forte supplied an alternator compliant with my Coyote harness. Check your alternator for a multi-pin plug that matches the one in the harness. In the picture below, it's the black connector (side view--right side of alternator directly below the +12V lug connection) where the harness plugs in.

Thanks for the feedback both of you! Much appreciated.

I just checked and the P/N on my alternator matches yours and has the plug for the coyote harness connector, so I assume I'm good to remove the brown wire from that alternator leg of the RF chassis harness. I think I'm still set on my plan, now time to just go do it.

[edwardb]

I just checked and the P/N on my alternator matches yours and has the plug for the coyote harness connector, so I assume I'm good to remove the brown wire from that alternator leg of the RF chassis harness...

Good to see you have the recommended alternator. Same one I have as well. Sold as Ford Performance M-8600-M50BALT. For reference, that's a 6G alternator (as opposed to a 1-wire) and is available in 130, 170, and 200-amp ratings. Haven't been able to figure out which one we're getting. But even if the lowest 130 amp, should be plenty. And yes, loose the brown wire.

[dbo_texas]

For those who have installed the T56 in the roadster, I have 2 questions:

1. Does the bracket circled in the pic interfere w/ the T56? I already cut out the main e-brake mounting bracket from the PS, but wasn't sure about this one originally used for routing the e-brake cables.
2. For e-brake relocation, I'm planning to put on top of the trans tunnel on the PS. I superimposed the top view of the e-brake location onto the temporary placement of the T56, and it looks like it will fit but gets a little close at the trans joint with the driveshaft. I thought maybe I could move the e-brake forward and it might have a little more clearance to the driveshaft and still clear the shifter. Has anyone located it in this area with a T56? I've seen most move it to the DS but with the carbon fiber dash bump out, the handle is just too long - I'd need to go with a completely different e-brake which I don't think I want to do. E-Stop is another option but I prefer to keep the manual pull handle.

[edwardb]

The location you're proposing is exactly where Factory Five mounts the e-brake handle on the Coupe. I realize the tunnels are likely different. But my Coupe has the T-56 and the handle fits there perfectly. The Coupe version doesn't use the right angle mounting brackets. It sits up higher and I suspect yours also needs to be higher to clear the transmission. FWIW, picture of the handle mounted during my Coupe build:

[dbo_texas]

The location you're proposing is exactly where Factory Five mounts the e-brake handle on the Coupe. I realize the tunnels are likely different. But my Coupe has the T-56 and the handle fits there perfectly. The Coupe version doesn't use the right angle mounting brackets. It sits up higher and I suspect yours also needs to be higher to clear the transmission. FWIW, picture of the handle mounted during my Coupe build:

I see - thanks for the reference image. Looks like the teeth on the e-brake sit mostly above the tunnel. I guess that's ok as long as nothing smacks into the boot/cover. I'll mock mine up like yours once I reinstall the drivetrain and see how much clearance there is.

[edwardb]

I see - thanks for the reference image. Looks like the teeth on the e-brake sit mostly above the tunnel. I guess that's ok as long as nothing smacks into the boot/cover. I'll mock mine up like yours once I reinstall the drivetrain and see how much clearance there is.

One more comment about the installation in the Coupe which may apply to you if you use this mounting location. Factory Five supplied the same boot as the Roadster side mounted setup and said to modify it as needed for the Coupe location and configuration. I wasn't super happy with that, so bought a Lokar 70-EHBF Hand Brake Boot kit. The boot didn't fit. So I ended up modifying the Roadster one that FF supplied after all. But I did use the Lokar trim ring which worked perfectly. Maybe it's available separately? I don't know. Haven't looked. The teeth exposed on the back side is not an issue at all in my experience. One more shameless Coupe picture.

[dbo_texas]

One more comment about the installation in the Coupe which may apply to you if you use this mounting location. Factory Five supplied the same boot as the Roadster side mounted setup and said to modify it as needed for the Coupe location and configuration. I wasn't super happy with that, so bought a Lokar 70-EHBF Hand Brake Boot kit. The boot didn't fit. So I ended up modifying the Roadster one that FF supplied after all. But I did use the Lokar trim ring which worked perfectly. Maybe it's available separately? I don't know. Haven't looked. The teeth exposed on the back side is not an issue at all in my experience. One more shameless Coupe picture.

Thanks for the tip on the boot. I did buy the Lokar trim ring already, and will be making a custom boot out of the same saddle leather as my Intatrim seats. I'll give the upholstery shop the FFR boot and make sure they know we'll need to modify the pattern a bit.