Track Day Report - 6 Speed, Headlights, Suspension Bottoming

[Dave 53]

After over 10 weeks of my car up on jack stands, my The Driveshaft Shop axles arrived on Thursday, I got them in Friday and made it to Thunderhill West CCW yesterday. After towing my 818 home from the previous 4 track days, I was ecstatic to drive home at the end of the day!

My goal for the day was to simply figure out the new 6 speed. I had yet to have more than a couple of laps or street miles with it. It took 3 sessions of experimenting, but I finally got the shift points figured out. The LED shift light bar on top of the dash is a huge help and kept me from unnecessarily over reving the engine. But I still had problems finding gears. Especially 5 - 4 down shifts which multiple times ended up being a 5 - 6 upshift. And two 4 -3 money shifts. Hard to find neutral when stopping. The 6 speed shifting feels so different than the 5 speed, and not in a good way. Anyone ever try fabricating shift lever gates like on a Ferarri? I was 2 seconds off my PB, but that's okay. Missing shifts and hitting cones tends to slow you down some.

Without the long explanation, I hit a cone at about 70 mph. It just missed my headlight. No body damage, but it was enough to knock the Hella headlight fixture out of the bucket. Unknowingly, I had left enough slack in the wires for it to dangle down, hit the pavement and get all busted up. I'd suggest you assume your headlight fixture will someday fall out of the bucket and take precautions to make sure it stays contained. For aero reasons, it's been on the to-do list to mount a splitter type panel under there. I'm thinking about a wire connecting the fixture to one of the bucket to body bolts. For a similar or other reasons, I'm certain this wasn't the last time it falls off.

Thunderhill West has a couple of high speed low curbs that we bash that cause my rear suspension to bottom out. Especially with a passenger, of course. I've been incrementally raising the rear ride height which has helped. I am now at max ride height (limit of Koni adjustment) and still bottom out at exit of the Dorito turn 3. And Sonoma turn 1. And a couple of other places. Other than missing the curb which is impossible, any advice? Stiffer springs?

First time out with the new Konig Dekagram wheels. I did my lunch time checks and every single lug nut was seriously loose, all 20, one nut ready to fall off! Not sure if this was a onetime new wheel thing, but I will be retorquing after every session for awhile. I went from 75ft/lbs to 85 and it seemed to be okay after lunch.

I didn't take any video and the only picture I took was an unflattering picture of a friend recovering from a ride-along.

[Rob T]

Dave: Remind us what shifter you are running and your set up in the back of the transmission with the cables, please.

Glad you had a "successful" day and got to drive home. That is a big win.

[Dave 53]

I've got the Very Cool Parts shifter with the cables going straight back. Homemade brackets on the transmission.

Any advice to improve shifablity greatly appreciated.

It's not terribly difficult to find neutral when the car is moving. But when stopped, sometimes I have to use two hands and fiddle with it for several seconds trying to find neutral.

On the 5 -4 downshift, instead of me trying to steer the lever in one movement, I think I need to make it a 3 step process. 5th to neutral. Then let the lever find it's own way to the default 3 - 4 neutral position. Then down to 4th. Just easier said than done when braking hard, trying to get a down shift in and set up for the next turn.

shifter bracket rear.jpgtrans bracket 1.jpg

[Mountain-Metalworks]

If you get some more seat time with the new tranny and you find you're still looking for shift gates, let me know. With a waterjet and VMC(vertical machining center) anything is possible. Especially if there's a strong need for it in racing situations.

-TJ

[Hobby Racer]

That tall bracket that holds the cable for moving between gates (left to right when sitting in the cockpit) looks like you might be getting some flexing. Put a GoPro on it and run through the gears to see if it's a problem. May need some bracing.

[Bicyclops]

That tall bracket that holds the cable for moving between gates (left to right when sitting in the cockpit) looks like you might be getting some flexing. Put a GoPro on it and run through the gears to see if it's a problem. May need some bracing.

And the big sweeping turn the cable has to make to get there adds slop. A straight shot and bellcrank setup al la zero decibal would help with that. I rolled my own.

Ed

[Dave 53]

And the big sweeping turn the cable has to make to get there adds slop. A straight shot and bellcrank setup al la zero decibal would help with that. I rolled my own.

Ed

The Zero Debile set up seems to be the gold standard. But, $1,100 plus cables. I got my Very Cool Parts shifter and cables for free. I just had to make the brackets.

With the 5 speed I had the FFR front running cables with 270 degrees of bends. The 6 speed Very Cool Parts has just a 90 degree bend. But the 5 speed was easier to use.

I'm going to stiffen up the shifter bracket. And try and drill a cable mounting hole on the shifter mechanism closer to the lever pivot for the forward / aft movement to increase the amount of lever throw. And just get more seat time in getting use to it all.

[Dave 53]

That tall bracket that holds the cable for moving between gates (left to right when sitting in the cockpit) looks like you might be getting some flexing. Put a GoPro on it and run through the gears to see if it's a problem. May need some bracing.

That tall bracket seems pretty solid going through the gears in the garage. But, I think I can stiffen up the shifter bracket. The connection between the cable and shifter linkage is solid, but the whole shifter mechanism has a little bit of flex. I'll relook into both.

[Rob T]

Something else to check....2x's, I found the gimbals loose on the shifter in the cockpit. One of the bolts had come a bit loose. Made for some sloppy, imprecise shifting, and it was kind of hard to find.

[Rob T]

Here are some pictures of where my cables mount to the transmission. These were done by Wayne at VCP. They are rock solid. Shifting is pretty good (not Porsche good), but not a big issue with the 5-4 shift. Hope this helps.IMG_8126.jpgIMG_8127.jpg

Similar to yours, but the bracket goes all the way across the transmission to the other side.

[Dave 53]

I tried getting a 6 speed bracket from Wayne at VCP. I had a few conversations with him many months ago about brackets, spring rates, aero, alignments, etc. Then he went dark. His web site has been down even before he went dark (he knew when I told him).

I hope he is well. Anyone know?

[Sgt.Gator]

I tried getting a 6 speed bracket from Wayne at VCP. I had a few conversations with him many months ago about brackets, spring rates, aero, alignments, etc. Then he went dark. His web site has been down even before he went dark (he knew when I told him).

I hope he is well. Anyone know?

I see his posts on FB occasionally, last was Oct 16.

[Bob Cowan]

Thunderhill West has a couple of high speed low curbs that we bash that cause my rear suspension to bottom out. Especially with a passenger, of course. I've been incrementally raising the rear ride height which has helped. I am now at max ride height (limit of Koni adjustment) and still bottom out at exit of the Dorito turn 3. And Sonoma turn 1. And a couple of other places. Other than missing the curb which is impossible, any advice? Stiffer springs?

Stiffer springs would be the next step. Go up about 10% each time and see how it goes. If you have adjustable shocks, stiffen up the compression a bit for a fine tune.

[Sgt.Gator]

Dave, what are your spring rates? I just went thru a process of of measuring and running my car thru a suspension calculator. I now have Front 900lbs, Rear 700lbs.
If you want to test different rates I have lots of springs now, I OD'd a bit on ordering a range of them. PM if you want me to ship you some.

[Dave 53]

Dave, what are your spring rates? I just went thru a process of of measuring and running my car thru a suspension calculator. I now have Front 900lbs, Rear 700lbs.
If you want to test different rates I have lots of springs now, I OD'd a bit on ordering a range of them. PM if you want me to ship you some.

Sgt.Garot,I somehow missed you reply until now.

Thanks for the offer to try different springs! I may take you up on that once I come up with a plan.

I have the 818S setup. 350# front, 275# rear, yellow shocks.

A few question....

If I start messing with springs, at what point are the yellow shocks no longer appropriate? When would I try the reds or something else?

Just got a quote from FFR for 818R "Koni shock sets" which I believe is 500#, 300#, red shocks. $1,275 delivered.

What makes a FFR sourced Koni red shock a FFR 818R shock? Are there other shocks worth considering?

I guess I'm looking for specific feedback on how to proceed.

Hope to be out at Thunderhill West again Saturday. I plan on keeping better notes on where I'm bottoming the car out.

[kabacj]

I see his posts on FB occasionally, last was Oct 16.

I saw Wayne at SEMA he is a one man show and has tons of work. Give him a call. He will respond.

[Dave 53]

The FFR Black Friday parts sale applies to the 818R red shocks and springs. Should I pull the trigger on that?

Follow up on my shifter issues... 2 of the 4 bolts holding the mounting plate to the chassis were loose. Fixed with some thread lock.