A Kennebunk Build: Painted and in Michigan!

[mmklaxer]

Last few things before attempting to start. Filled the coolant with 3 gallons of Dex-Cool. I have another gallon mixed that I'll use to top off the expansion tank as I go. I put dielectric grease on all the grounds. Put gas in the tank (1 gallon-ish?). I then hooked up the positive terminal for the first time and immediately heard a clicking noise and pulled the cable back off. weird. couldn't figure it out without the battery terminal attached and walking around so, i did just that. got around to the dash to see the hazards blinking. I had installed the switch upside down to what I thought and I had the hazards "on." Funny after the fact, but going through it when I've never done this before it's a bit nerve racking. I'll flip the switch so that down is off.

Otherwise, the dash lights up nicely. Clock started keeping time, though I'll need to set it. I calibrated the tach (500 rpms) and the fuel gauge (7/8 tank) per the responses I've found on here for the fuel level sender in the kit and the gen3 coyote.

When the key turns to the run position, I can hear the throttle body activate. I do NOT hear the fuel pump for the first second or so. Confirmed I have 0 PSI on the regulator dial. I've read numerous threads with great info on this. I BELIEVE I have everything wired correctly, and the more I see, there seem to be a number of gen3's that won't pump until the engine attempts to start. I'll be checking my wiring and will post some pictures if I really can't figure it out. I blipped the key to start for just a second to see if that would be enough to activate the relay for the fuel pump. nope. More work to do here, or just try to start it a few times like Chris (460.465USMC) did for a successful first start. Not much else I checked at this point, I want to wire the lights soon to check those harnesses, especially the tail lights with the trailer connection.

I did try to hit the horn, and nothing. That's a fairly simple electrical setup, and I didn't do anything too wild. hooked it up per the instructions. I switched the horn button out with a different one. it has 4 connections on the back and came with no instructions. I suspect I hooked up to the wrong ones. easy enough to check.

No fuel pump and no horn. a little frustrating, but trying to be patient. Also, this is the first time I energized the system, so I'm not entirely surprised that everything didn't work perfectly first go.
IMG_2844.jpg

[460.465USMC]

I know the feeling. Hang in there. My guess is you'll be there soon.

It's likely the clicking noises you heard when connecting the battery for the first time are coming from the Coyote PDB (fuse panel). This is normal, and I believe it's relays energizing. It's only heard when reconnecting the battery. Otherwise, you'll (eventually) just hear the fuel pump charge the system for 1-2 seconds when turning the key to the Run position.

If you determine more troubleshooting is needed, here are a couple No Start threads where Edwardb lists the critical items that must be connected and functioning for the Gen 3 Coyote to start.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post461613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post480742

[JohnK]

I seem to recall a few other posts recently reporting no fuel pump prime on newer gen 3 coyotes prior to first start. If I recall how those eventually played out, when they actually tried to start the engine, the fuel pump started and after first start the fuel pump will prime momentarily at key on as expected. I think it's a quirk of the newer gen 3 coyotes that it doesn't always prime at key on prior to the first engine start.

[mmklaxer]

I know the feeling. Hang in there. My guess is you'll be there soon.

It's likely the clicking noises you heard when connecting the battery for the first time are coming from the Coyote PDB (fuse panel). This is normal, and I believe it's relays energizing. It's only heard when reconnecting the battery. Otherwise, you'll (eventually) just hear the fuel pump charge the system for 1-2 seconds when turning the key to the Run position.

If you determine more troubleshooting is needed, here are a couple No Start threads where Edwardb lists the critical items that must be connected and functioning for the Gen 3 Coyote to start.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post461613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post480742

Thanks for these links. I’m away for the week, but I’m wired just like Paul describes in the first link. Excited to get back and try again next Sunday!

[mmklaxer]

I seem to recall a few other posts recently reporting no fuel pump prime on newer gen 3 coyotes prior to first start. If I recall how those eventually played out, when they actually tried to start the engine, the fuel pump started and after first start the fuel pump will prime momentarily at key on as expected. I think it's a quirk of the newer gen 3 coyotes that it doesn't always prime at key on prior to the first engine start.

I’m hoping this is the case. No I just have to wait patiently until I can get back to the build… ugh

[mmklaxer]

I need to figure out how to upload videos, cause no video=didn't happen. Having said that...

...It fired up! And sounded gloriously loud without side pipes for the first go.

A couple friends came over to help with the event. After a coaching session on what to look for and where to focus, I started cranking the motor. Much like others have described with recent gen3 Coyotes, it took quite a few cranks to get the fuel pressure up. My "fuel pressure regulator assistant" told me that with each crank the fuel pressure climbed and climbed, so the fuel pump was working, and just getting the system primed and lines full of fuel.

It definitely took a number of cranks before it started. Even knowing that would be the case, we looked at each other and discussed a few potential things it could be, but then it finally fired up. Ran smooth from the moment it fired up. No fuel leaks (Woohoo!!). I only ran it for about a minute 1-2 times, as shortly thereafter I had to run and pick up the eldest from a birthday party.

A couple things to check:
- The water temp gauge never got off 0, which isn't shocking, as the gauge won't even begin to read until it's above 140 (60*C is at the lot end of the gauge). I need to run it for a bit to check that.
- Oil pressure never got off 0. The MIL light never came on, and no codes were thrown, so I assume the issue is in the wiring of the gauge and not an actual oil pressure issue.
- Fuel Gauge is still at 0. I only put about a gallon in, so that could just be that I didn't put enough in to "move the needle."
- Horn button is messed up (technical term). I bought an aftermarket horn momentary switch referenced on this forum https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. the rear of the horn has 4 screws: 2 + and 2 -. When wired "appropriately" nothing happens. I have power running on the hot wire, so that's good.. I tried all combinations of the 4 connections and no luck. what I DID find is that if I hook up the wires to 2 specific connectors (one + and one neg), the horn sounds without touching the button, so something's definitely not right. I'm going to try the kit provided horn button just to make sure the system is functioning, then calling the manufacturer.

SO happy for a successful first go!

[mmklaxer]

quick update - I connected the kit-provided horn button, and it also honked as I completed the circuit without depressing the button. Any thoughts?

I am running the wiring as defined in the instructions. Horn is just 2 wires from the dash harness that run through the front harness to the horns. The instructions read to just hook either power and ground wires to either blade connection on the horns, with a pigtail to the second horn. relatively straight forward all things considered - not sure what I could have boogered up there....

[Lidodrip]

Congratulations on the first start, a very exciting milestone! One word of advice I learned from the school of hard knocks, make sure you re-tighten the hose clamps on your cooling system after it gets warm for the first time. We dumped all our coolant on the garage floor after a clamp came loose, the dog ran away, and my wife called us to come in for dinner. I spent an hour looking for the dog, my son cleaned up the coolant and we both had cold dinner. Still had smiles on our face though...

James

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! You made it. Congrats. Such a great feeling. Looking forward to seeing and HEARING the rumble when you get your video uploaded.

[Junbug]

Awesome! Really excited to hear and read your progress. Can't wait to see the video with sound!

[edwardb]

Congratulations on the first start. That's interesting Ford apparently changed the calibration on the engine computer to not run the pump until started. No more couple seconds when the key is first turned on. No wonder guys are having to crank the engine so much on first starts. Two things: First, I'd recommend putting more fuel in the tank. 1 gallon isn't much. It will run out and/or starve pretty quickly. I'd put at least several in. If you're worried about it getting old while you complete you build, just add some Stabil and move on. Mine sits for 6 months during the winter with Stabil and no issues at spring start-up and run. Second, get that oil pressure gauge sorted out. Granted it may have thrown a code with low oil pressure. But personally I'd have shut it off almost immediately with no indication on the gauge. Very unlikely you did any harm and almost for sure it's fine. But no oil pressure is catastrophic very quickly.

[mmklaxer]

Congratulations on the first start. That's interesting Ford apparently changed the calibration on the engine computer to not run the pump until started. No more couple seconds when the key is first turned on. No wonder guys are having to crank the engine so much on first starts. Two things: First, I'd recommend putting more fuel in the tank. 1 gallon isn't much. It will run out and/or starve pretty quickly. I'd put at least several in. If you're worried about it getting old while you complete you build, just add some Stabil and move on. Mine sits for 6 months during the winter with Stabil and no issues at spring start-up and run. Second, get that oil pressure gauge sorted out. Granted it may have thrown a code with low oil pressure. But personally I'd have shut it off almost immediately with no indication on the gauge. Very unlikely you did any harm and almost for sure it's fine. But no oil pressure is catastrophic very quickly.

Thanks for the heads up - should the oil pressure gauge read on just "Run?"

[edwardb]

Thanks for the heads up - should the oil pressure gauge read on just "Run?"

I see from your pictures you have the Ron Francis harness and Speedhut gauges. Gauges are off the "ACC FED" portion of the RF panel. So are powered with the key in Run but not in Start. Also in Accessory, but not used much in my experience. When you turn the key to the Run position, normal to see all the gauges bump a little or even sweep depending on where they were when last powered off. You should also see the GPS speedo display power up and show "acquiring" or whatever. The gauges will zero when the key is in start, but come right back when you let go of the key. You mention oil pressure, water temp, and fuel all registering zero. If you don't see any movement in them at all, likely a gauge power issue. Unlikely all would fail. Check the brown gauge power wire in the dash harness. Should be connected to the gauge power daisy chain and should have +12V with the ignition in run. Check the fuse if not. If OK, check the wiring at the ignition switch. Accessory gets it's power from there and only other circuits are wiper, heater, and radio. So if accessory isn't powered, you may not have noticed it yet.

Again, don't take my concern about no indicated oil pressure as alarmist. The Coyote has a crankshaft driven oil pump and for a brand new engine extremely unlikely it's not doing its thing. But oil pressure is one of the primary signs of engine health (or not...) so get the gauge working. Good luck.

[mmklaxer]

I see from your pictures you have the Ron Francis harness and Speedhut gauges. Gauges are off the "ACC FED" portion of the RF panel. So are powered with the key in Run but not in Start. Also in Accessory, but not used much in my experience. When you turn the key to the Run position, normal to see all the gauges bump a little or even sweep depending on where they were when last powered off. You should also see the GPS speedo display power up and show "acquiring" or whatever. The gauges will zero when the key is in start, but come right back when you let go of the key. You mention oil pressure, water temp, and fuel all registering zero. If you don't see any movement in them at all, likely a gauge power issue. Unlikely all would fail. Check the brown gauge power wire in the dash harness. Should be connected to the gauge power daisy chain and should have +12V with the ignition in run. Check the fuse if not. If OK, check the wiring at the ignition switch. Accessory gets it's power from there and only other circuits are wiper, heater, and radio. So if accessory isn't powered, you may not have noticed it yet.

Again, don't take my concern about no indicated oil pressure as alarmist. The Coyote has a crankshaft driven oil pump and for a brand new engine extremely unlikely it's not doing its thing. But oil pressure is one of the primary signs of engine health (or not...) so get the gauge working. Good luck.

This is very helpful, thank you. I've read quite a few oil pressure gauge threads recently, and between that, and your advice above, I have the semblance of a plan.

1. check the brown gauge power wire wire for power. if not, check fuze.
2. Double check speedo - I think it read "aquiring" but want to double check
3. tach definitely registered RPMs at idle. Feels like power is running to the gauges.
4. Put 5 gal of gas in the tank to validate THAT gauge is reading properly.
5. Focus on the oil pressure sensor connection at the sensor. I followed the manual and cut the sensor connections off the harness to connect them to the RF harness rather than running the speedhut harnesses into the engine bay. Hindsight, that would have been easier, but I'm down the path of the RF harness and getting power properly hooked up to the 3-wire sensor using the oil pressure power and the oil temp wires along with ground. I'd like to make those work, and I very likely could have flip flopped the connections. Given the directions aren't expressly clear (to me) I came to the forum to find others that connected the wires to know which connects to which. Worst case I can always call speedhut and get replacement harnesses and run those in lieu of the sending unit harness.

[mmklaxer]

Over the past few posts, Paul helped me determine a trouble shooting path for my oil pressure gauge not responding at start up. I think I found my forehead-smacking cause, but i still need a solution.

- I believe I have power to the gauges through the brown feed wire. tach is powered, speedo reads 000000, oil pressure and water temp "blip" up when the key turns to run.
- I went the route of following the instructions for using the RF sending unit harness instead of running the gauge provided harness to the sensor. That means I cut the end off the gauge harness and attached the sensor attachment to the RF sending unit harness (power, ground, and oil temp power wires) as it requires 3 wires.
- "FOREHEAD SMACK" moment - on the gauge side of the RF sending unit harness, I attached the oil pressure connector (two wire) to the speedhut gauge connector (three wire. so the oil temp power wire I used at the sensor connects to nothing on the gauge side of the harness. the oil temp wire is still attached to the oil temp gauge connector (2-wire) that's hanging out in space because I don't have an oil temp gauge.

Unfortunately I no longer have the speedhut gauge harness, else I would just repeat the process of attaching the speedhut connector to the same 3 wires that I used on the other end of the RF sending unit harness at the sensor. I see 2 solutions:
- find a way to insert the oil temp power wire into the RF connector that connects to the Oil pressure gauge (has anyone done that? how the heck do I keep it in place?)
- push the easy button - call speedhut and get a replacement oil pressure gauge harness and use that in lieu of the sending unit harness.

Thoughts?

[mmklaxer]

Here are a couple videos of the first start.

The REAL first start. The video isn't great, as I only had 2 others with me, and I wanted them to focus on looking for leaks at the regulator and the fuel filter/tank.
https://youtube.com/shorts/8whOye1YKPg

When the Mrs got home, she wanted to see it fire up as well, so here's a better view of the day:
https://youtube.com/shorts/ed68GUCeMr4

Given that it took quite a few cranks to get the fuel pressure up, we were able to check for leaks in advance of the actual start. We still looked again after the video stopped, but none found. Marked the AN fittings to keep an eye on movement over time.

Regarding the oil pressure harness, I ended up ordering a new one from speedhut, as that seemed like the easier path than to find a way to break into the sending unit harness to add the 3rd wire on the gauge side. I had thrown away the wire after cutting off the sensor connector end. So I currently have 3 wires running from the sensor through the sending unit harness, but only 2 of them are in the kit-provided connector that attaches to the gauge that has 3 wires. the 3rd wire is still attached to the oil temp connector.

I also spent some time installing the lights on the body today. once the gauges are all sorted out, I'll put the body on for the first time to check for fit/windshield & wipers, etc. Then back off for undercoat.

[KDubU]

Great milestone Mike and she sounds nice….with only headers.

[mmklaxer]

Spoke with Ron Francis this AM regarding the disconnect between the sending unit connectors and the gauge connectors. I need to get some Ron Francis revision numbers to them and some pictures to validate the connectors I need, but they'll help me work through a solution. It sounds like it is difficult to get the wires out of the connectors without risk of damaging them, so might have some new connectors coming.

My kit has gauges with the wires in slots 1&3, and the fuel & water temp has them in slots 1&2.

[mmklaxer]

After speaking with Ron Francis and ordering a set of connector removal tools, I was able to get the wires lined up in the appropriate connector slots. First test was the fuel gauge - turn the key to run, and the fuel gauge came to life. Nice. Fired up the engine, and the Oil pressure jumped to 100 before settling in at the 40ish range once at temp. after a bit the water temp started to climb as it warmed up as well. I need to run it for a bit longer to make sure the fan comes on, but for now, I'm satisfied that the gauges are running properly. I did notice a very slight leak from the coolant system at the water temp sensor. snugged up the fitting a bit to see if that'll do. otherwise I'll need to remove and add some more rounds of teflon tape or pipe dope. Hoping not to need that, but we'll see.

I also installed the stock horn button for the time being. works as expected, so the problem definitely resides within the switch i bought.

Overall very excited to find out that so far, the wiring glitches were not due to misassembly, but rather issues with the hardware that I could correct.

Hoping to swing by the powder coaters to pick up my ceramic coated side pipes this week. then - Go Cart Time!!!

Thanks to Kyle (KDubU) for swinging by to give it the once-over. Nothing major identified, and good to swap stories with another builder. Only thing we both agreed on is that the brakes aren't as firm as I'd like. I'll go back to bleed again to see if there are some trapped bubbles in there somewhere.

For now, the car is back on the ground, looking low and lean, ready to run.

[KDubU]

It was great to meet you Mike and see your build. It looks great, nice and clean and you are o so close to being done. Makes me so miss my roadster and I was out on BAT looking at ones up for sale…would like to build my own again but alas timing is not good for me right now. If I ever see mine up for sale, I will buy it in a heartbeat. Below is mine in Viking Blue but your colour combo will look awesome!

IMG_0242.jpg
IMG_0366.jpg

[Nigel Allen]

It was great to meet you Mike and see your build. It looks great, nice and clean and you are o so close to being done. Makes me so miss my roadster and I was out on BAT looking at ones up for sale…would like to build my own again but alas timing is not good for me right now. If I ever see mine up for sale, I will buy it in a heartbeat. Below is mine in Viking Blue but your colour combo will look awesome!

IMG_0242.jpg
IMG_0366.jpg

Man, that sure is a poster car! I see why you would want it back.

[mmklaxer]

I have some time this week to spend on the body, so I took it down from it's position above the tractor and started cleaning. two rounds of wax & degreaser with scotchbrite pads, alternating between scrubbing and picking wax with a dental pick. I think I'm in pretty good shape, but will reassess again later. I didn't get much wax gumming up on the body itself. Rather it just turned chalky and wiped up with paper towels.

Afterwards I washed it down with dish detergent and warm water. I found a couple areas that I needed to really dig to clear out the wax beneath the surface. Namely behind the doors. I assume these are common, as both sides were similar. IMG_2922.jpgIMG_2923.jpgI also had a nice void back on the DS side by the truck opening.IMG_2924.jpg

With all those cleaned up and scrubbed with more wax/degreaser and scotchbrite, final wash to clean everything up.IMG_2921.jpg

I flipped the body over to work on the wheel wells. Shooting for 1/4" lip on the wheel wells, I ended up taking off about 1/4" from the fronts, and really just cleaned up the rears to a uniform reveal. I started getting tired and called it before making a mistake. WIll head back out with a fresh head to make sure there are no waves in the wheel wells before backfilling with everglass.

One question - Should I clean up the hood hold edge in the body? the overhand by the DS footbox is 1/4", and everywhere else is closer to 1/2". I can't tell if tha'ts deliberate, or just a product of the mold.
IMG_2925.jpg

[Daral]

quick update - I connected the kit-provided horn button, and it also honked as I completed the circuit without depressing the button. Any thoughts?

I am running the wiring as defined in the instructions. Horn is just 2 wires from the dash harness that run through the front harness to the horns. The instructions read to just hook either power and ground wires to either blade connection on the horns, with a pigtail to the second horn. relatively straight forward all things considered - not sure what I could have boogered up there....

It didn't look like anyone responded to your horn button question. I had the same problem. The horns honked as soon as I attached the battery cables. I tracked it down to a bad button. It was the FFR supplied one that is about $4.00 on their website. I bought a different one from Iowa80 https://www.iowa80.com/pd/chrome-horn-button/346848/ Nicer looking and hopefully it will work when it arrives next week.

[Lidodrip]

One question - Should I clean up the hood hold edge in the body? the overhand by the DS footbox is 1/4", and everywhere else is closer to 1/2". I can't tell if tha'ts deliberate, or just a product of the mold.
IMG_2925.jpg

The variation in the hood body edge is there on purpose - it is done because of how the top of the driver's foot box comes close to the edge in that spot. I ended up making my edge a uniform 1/4" all around - I prefer the symmetrical look.

James

[mmklaxer]

The variation in the hood body edge is there on purpose - it is done because of how the top of the driver's foot box comes close to the edge in that spot. I ended up making my edge a uniform 1/4" all around - I prefer the symmetrical look.

James

Thanks James. I found Paul's opening-by-opening guide to how best to trim the various areas. He did the same.

[mmklaxer]

It's been a hectic fall, and I was woefully negligent in posting here. Having said that - IT'S LEGAL!! Registered& Titled this week as a **1965** Shelby Cobra Replica! It was a long goofy process getting the paperwork to the BMV to obtain a VIN, but the people involved were fantastic. Insured, registered, and now off to the painter next week! Unfortunately it is now too cold to really run it around here in Maine, but it'll be back in my possession early spring in it's new liveries and ready to rock! Plus it frees up a garage space for the winter... I should remind the painter "Take your time, no rush, if I don't have it back before the salt is washed away, I'll be ok with that......
IMG_3189.jpgIMG_3179 (1).jpgIMG_3180 (1).jpgIMG_3182 (1).jpg

Body work was relatively straight forward. Followed all the online advice for body positioning, all went together without issue.

A few items to still work on. I hand stitched the shifter boot just in case it had to look finished for the inspection. I'll send that to the upholsterer for a more professional look. Door sills I'll get powder coated, as I plan to carpet the flat bottom but leave the vertical exposed. I need to chop up the Gen1 Coyote cover to fit over the hoses. Then when it comes back I need to take it for a professional alignment. I got pretty darn close with a Fasttrax & string, but I want to be doubly sure it's exact at the right ride height. Other than that, just some cosmetic items to finalize, replace the kit headlights with lucas 3-bar/LEDs, door cards, etc.

Moving to Michigan

On 2/1 I'm moving to the Lansing area with work, with my family following in the Summer once school ends. Are there are groups/owners in the area? Car should be ready around 4/1, and I plan to have it trucked out to Michigan with me. I can also to some searching on the site, but with the pending move and the holiday season, life here is a bit hectic.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday!

[KDubU]

Congrats Mike! It’s another big milestone getting her legal. Who did you go with for paint after all? Are you still planning the same paint scheme? Moving to Lansing? That will be a bit different and hope all goes well for you there. I guess I won’t see much of your roadster around.

[mmklaxer]

Congrats Mike! It’s another big milestone getting her legal. Who did you go with for paint after all? Are you still planning the same paint scheme? Moving to Lansing? That will be a bit different and hope all goes well for you there. I guess I won’t see much of your roadster around.

I ended up going with Peter Arnberg with Baker Pond Hot Rods for paint, and still planning the gray with ghost stripes. If you DO see it around this spring, I’ll be giving my wife the whatfor and why!

Yes we have a plant in Lansing that I was asked to lead. I’ve heard great things about the area, and I look forward to the experience. My family is sticking around through the end of school, so I’ll be flying back and forth. I’ll text ya and swing by!

[edwardb]

Moving to Michigan

On 2/1 I'm moving to the Lansing area with work, with my family following in the Summer once school ends. Are there are groups/owners in the area? Car should be ready around 4/1, and I plan to have it trucked out to Michigan with me. I can also to some searching on the site, but with the pending move and the holiday season, life here is a bit hectic.

Welcome to sunny Michigan. Having done a couple job related moves myself back in the day, I have a pretty good idea how hectic it can be. Good luck with all the details and getting the family settled.

I don't know about groups or owners in the Lansing area specifically. But a little over an hour away in the metro Detroit area is the Great Lakes Cobra Club. https://greatlakescobraclub.com/. You'd maybe be too far to participate in everything. But we have members from all over the state plus Ohio. The overall hobby car scene in SE Michigan is crazy. Lots to see and do when the season comes.

[cnutting]

I ended up going with Peter Arnberg with Baker Pond Hot Rods

Peter painted my 289 way back when. He was great to work with!

[mmklaxer]

Just picked up the car from paint Friday before Memorial Day, trailered to my new home in Haslett, MI yesterday.

car3.jpgcar2.jpgcar1.jpg

Last few items to finalize (door sills, engine cover, etc) before graduation. SOOO pumped!

[Jim1855]

Mike,
Welcome to MI.
Your car looks great, I like the colors.
Not sure about the Lansing car scene but the Grand Rapids area is fairly active.
I occasionally have a Saturday coffee at my home in SE Grand Rapids (I96 & 28th St). You'd certainly be welcome. PM for more.
Jim

[Lidodrip]

Looks great! Sorry to see you leave Maine, have a great time in Michigan. Enjoy the rides!

James

[kirby]

I love the color and subtle stripes. Looks great

[Traveller]

Welcome to MI, Mike! Beatiful car.

Not sure about the Lansing car scene but the Grand Rapids area is fairly active...
Jim

It will be even more active when mine gets back from paint...

-Jason