The cobra is home! Everyone is asking what the car's name is... LOL, I have no clue! Give me some ideas!
Also, I took the car to our local Cars & Coffee - got a LOT of eyeballs on it!
![]()
Visit our community sponsor
The cobra is home! Everyone is asking what the car's name is... LOL, I have no clue! Give me some ideas!
Also, I took the car to our local Cars & Coffee - got a LOT of eyeballs on it!
![]()
adjusted the ride height in the rear, the front is perfect at 4" and the rear was also 4" - we raised the rear to 4.5" because over bumps the 315s out back would rub the body a bit
IMG_3437.jpg
took the car for alignment - to a place I've never used, but was recommended
unfortunately they didn't feel they could adjust the camber properly without disassembling the front upper arms and placing shims to bring the camber up
For a car using power steering car use the following specifications:
Caster: 7
Camber: -0.5°
Total Toe: 1/16”
2015 IRS only
Camber: -0.5°to -0.75°
Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in
IMG_3444.jpg IMG_3443.jpg
they wanted $800 to do this... needless to say I paid them $35 for a diagnostic fee and drove home... will hit up another local spot that i KNOW has worked on FFRs before
They clearly don’t know what they’re doing.
Jeff
Owning two of the eyeballs that were on your car that day I will confirm the collective oversized thumbs up there was on it! Nice job!!
Pretty sure Eddie at Tire Pros will do it. They did my 33 and it's a PIA. And they only charged me like $180 I think for 4 wheel.
Some small adders today - did the rear view mirror, side mirrors and the wind wings
also installed the Breeze radiator cowl cover, this was a tricky 1 man job
Thankfully I pre drilled everything prior to the body going on, I really like how this part buttons up the front of the engine bay and will keep the air flowing through the radiator and not up and over the engine
![]()
also added the side badges
![]()
Last edited by toadster; 07-05-2024 at 10:31 AM.
simple stuff since it's 112 outside, garage is barely keeping up around 86-89 with the A/C running...
visors and rear view mirror - with square nuts this time![]()
a LOT of sanding/grinding to get the 8-32 nuts to fit into the windshield channel (for the mirror) - but much easier than trying to hold a hex nut with a screwdriver (because they spin)
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
also hooked up the fuel filler hose and ground strap - now I can actually get some gas in the tank, will probably do 1/3rd of a tank to get it aligned this friday
also working on the license plate light wiring, and adding an LED light bar to the filler plate to light up the trunk a bit more when the interior lights are on (pics to come!)
also, the rear view camera/backup light setup with my license plate frame won't work in the current setup, either the camera on top blocks the license plate lights, or with the camera on the bottom, the trunk won't open
more planning needed !!
Last edited by toadster; 07-08-2024 at 11:56 AM. Reason: the 6-32 nuts fit perfectly for the visors
My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build
Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.
Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.
got my new appointment to get aligned, the guys at BigO didn't disappoint! only $129 and 1.5 hours - dialed in!
alignment-July-2024.png
Those are good numbers Todd. Set your tires to 22-23psi and the car ought to drive great!
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! I've been wondering about the tire pressure... I believe they're at 35psi right now, but tracks EXTREMELY well compared to previously!
If I check the Yokohama site it says this:
The optimum 'working' tyre temperature of the Yokohama Advan A052 is around 40 degrees Celsius, with a temperature spread of 10-15 degrees across the tyre tread area.
Yokohama recommend the following technical set up: Optimum hot pressure dry use 2.0 - 2.2 bar or 29-32lbs. Minimum cold air pressure is 1.4 bar or 20lbs
Trust me, the car isn't heavy enough to create full tread contact when they are run that high. With that much pressure the tire will be overinflated for the load and only running on the center of the tread.
Jeff
tidying up some items before the inspections... one item was a VERY touchy brake light - we thought this was resolved prior to the body going on, BUT it stayed...
crawling into the driver footbox is a contortionists dream! fortunately the seats aren't attached yet, so that simplified things a bit
the problem is that with the Whitby power brake pedal and the Wilwood pedal setup is that the mount point for the brake switch is about 1/8th of an inch too short with both hex nuts attached
this would cause the brake lights to stay on, and would actually 'flutter' when driving because the switch was right on that edge on open/closed when driving and the pedal riding on the switch
we need the switch to move closer to the brake pedal by about 1/8" of an inch that nut is just a bit too thick!
getting into the footbox took sheer will, and some stretched neck muscles for sure!
this is my son Ryan (who is 6'3") and barely can get in the footbox, I'm sure I filled in the space a bit more LOL
the goal was to use a crescent wrench to loosen the top nut while keeping the switch intact to allow us to remove the switch and the nut behind the switch and replace it with a simple washer, not sure if this will hold over time but need to get this fixed or it won't pass brake and light inspection
with a thin washer in place of the nut, and hopefully tightened down enough the brake pedal switch is now kept open at rest, and works as expected - need to go-kart a bit more to test it out
you can see the much thinner washer and it moved the switch ever closer to the pedal bar
![]()
doing more post-paint checklist items:
1. shortened the seatbelts a bit more, I tell that that's fun with the body on! it helps to have the speakers removed though to get a few hands in there! Now they're pretty snug, and I feel better to attach the seats and submarine belt.
2. figured out my turn signal/dash flashing issue - was a bad LED bulb, I put the incandescents in for now in the front - a replacement LED is on it's way and I'll test again
3. buttoned up my dash and re-installed the speedometer (which was removed to ease access behind the dash when we were chasing the weird electrical issue in #2)
4. fixed a bad ground in the rear of the car, essentially the ground to all the trunk lighting was dead, installed a new ground in the trunk and all good
5. installing an LED in the trunk cover (from DWC) to give more light from the top/inside of the trunk
6. was fidgeting with the license plate lights, how we found the bad ground, and I snapped off the screw
7. #6 forced me into my backup camera install, got things drilled, now I just need to mount it
![]()
had more fun finishing up the rear view camera setup... not for the light of heart for sure
from my last post, since the screw post snapped on my license plate light, this is the time to get this mod done - was going to wait for after registration, but - without the light cover attached, I figured it would fail inspection
now - in order for the camera to fit into the light fixture, the grounding bar is in the way where the camera will sit - the nice part is that the ground bar is a bit higher than the actual camera spot I located, just a hair below the screw post
I used the 18.5mm hole saw and cut a raw hole
notice that the bar still is connected, so there's ground continuity to both lights for the license plate
next up, I needed a little more width for the screws I was going to use , the ground bar isn't wide enough, so two 1/8" holes were drilled and I added a small aluminum bar to overhang the grounding bar a bit
using some small rivets, I was able to place the two the extension bar just between the ground and positive bars, without touching - there's plenty of clearance
top view of the result - the new #25 holes with #10-24 tap will be used next
![]()
next up, spacing out the exterior screws, I used #10-24 since I have a boatload of them![]()
measured equal distances from center and use a 7/16 bit for the bolt holes
once the exterior holes were drilled, then I could use a #25 drill bit and then tap the holes for 10-24 screws
also note, I had to use the 18.5mm hole saw on the added aluminum bar as well
hopefully you can see the tolerances between the lights, screws and positive/negative bars
![]()
here's the camera I used - 1080P Backup Camera
we had to clock the camera a bit to get it aligned, pretty simple after all the installation
and the finished result
![]()
Nice work Todd, how is your A/C working for you? Can you drive the car on a 90+ degree day and not turn into a baked potato?
Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131
That backup camera is neat, it would be handy to have on all the time as the rearview mirrors I have don't give the best view. I doubt if I have the energy to add it to a finished car though.
My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build
Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.
Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.
to be honest, on a finished car it would be a bit of a chore with the wiring, neat idea for always on, but then I'd never see the radio screen
it does rather well! keeps the footbox nice and cool, got sunburnt yesterday not realizing how much sun was on us! LOL
A backup camera in the license plate light housing...who would have thought? Pretty cool! Things are coming together very nicely, Todd. Looking great!
Chris
Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.
a few more things to get the build a few more steps along...
installed an LED into the DWC filler panel, this adds a TON of light into the trunk - as you can imagine, stuffing your trunk full of stuff can block the trunk lights - this gives you a nice overhead light to see
![]()
added my exhaust hangers, and used rivnuts like many have so I didn't have to bolt through the 2" square tubes
I'm using the Gas'N hardware and may change over time to a different exhaust hanger setup, but these Coyote 4-in-1 headers mount pretty well to the Gas'N side pipes
note: pics below are basic setup, not fully tightened down
![]()
lastly, also mounted my Drummer Mike Side Pipe Shields - these are REALLY nice quality!
I tweaked my install a little bit... added some high-temp gasket material to the exhaust wrap that sits inside the bands between the exhaust pipe and the shield - REALLY simplified installation by holding the gasket in place!
![]()
![]()
Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131
thanks Travis - I have those straps on my Amazon wishlistwill see how they go - these 4-into-1 header flange mounts are pretty sturdy - the pipes seem dead on after 195 miles so far but now at least they're supported a bit more now
agree, the drummer mike shields are excellent quality - I got them just as prices doubled! ouch!
Last edited by toadster; 09-03-2024 at 11:41 PM.
I wrapped one of these around the rubber grommet to give it some extra support without taking out all of the flex.
My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build
Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.
Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.
cool idea! I could probably even use a 4" metal bands and tighten down, may come loose over time though...
also, here's a temperature pic of the exhaust - the Drummer Mike Shields with the zero-clearance makes a HUGE difference!!
the pics were taken about 3 minutes after the car was shut down - yes that's 53 degrees cooler with the shields and insulation!
![]()
another postitive today, passed brake and light inspection ($225 eek!)
also got my VIN # from CHP, just need to wait for my SPCNS number to be assigned to visit the BAR Referee to finish my SB100 - then back to DMV to finalize plates!
Last edited by toadster; 09-04-2024 at 02:57 PM.
Hi Todd,
I have similar shields on my side pipes (legally required here) although drummer Mikes are nicer. They work well.
The temperature readings you are getting may be false as infra red sensors don't get along well with reflective surfaces.
Cheers,
Nige.
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build
Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.
Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.