Good idea I will check out HF! I might be able to borrow a bandsaw as well since I just need it for this one project. I always think they are big and clunky but there are some cool portable ones now.
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Good idea I will check out HF! I might be able to borrow a bandsaw as well since I just need it for this one project. I always think they are big and clunky but there are some cool portable ones now.
Yes! I swapped both AVCS solenoids with OEM ones and it seems like I have resolved the P0011 and P0021 CEL I was getting for cam position error. I swapped the last one Tuesday night so working from home today I had to take a quick break to see if that did the trick. I did buy cheap solenoids from a parts center online so from now on it will only be OEM sensors and solenoids. One of the cheap sensors looked like maybe it was off center like the OEM one looked. Now I feel more confident on taking a longer drive. I am still waiting on the RTV of my flex fuel module. I can't imagine what it will feel like with E85 on board
I always buy OEM electronic stuff. Unfortunately, I sometimes have bought it from less than reputable sources (Amazon) and, though it looked like OEM, threw codes after just a few thousand miles. Cheaper not always genuine. Same happened with my AEM fuel pump from Amazon. Never pumped a drop of fuel.
I have a lowly 2L non-AVCS stroked to 2.14 with a 2.5L crank. E85 turned it into a monster. 310whp on 91 octane and 386 on ethanol! You're gonna love it.
Ed
I tested about 8 PCV valves. Cheap and easy to return. Easy test - blow, suck, does it leak? Subaru OEM was the clear winner. Some we absolutely worthless.
I recently pulled it out of the car for inspection and cleaning after about 18,000 miles. I had the car apart for a different project and it was exposed, so I took the opportunity. Still as good as new.
Last edited by Dave 53; 07-21-2024 at 02:13 PM.
So resolving the cam position CELs I felt more confident going for a longer drive. I drove down one of the major roads by my house about 14 miles round trip in stop and go traffic. The car felt great and quick! This is definitely the fastest car I have driven and it’s still on a 91 time. I should get my flex fuel module back next week and can’t wait to see the difference. I missed a downshift as one of the lights was turning and pretty sure I bounced it off the limiter. A few minutes later I could audibly hear a different exhaust note and the CEL was flashing. So I limped it home and pulled P0245 and P0302 for a misfire and waste gate circuit low. I tried looking at the log and there was definitely a weird behavior around the missed shift in mass air flow, timing, and waste gate duty cycle. Time to investigate.
I did take a short video of when everything was going smoothly.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C96Hc...M1YmI2Ng%3D%3D
Congrats on the drive! Was so satisfying to finally drive it for me. As I'm exploring the potential at track days, I'm continually impressed with the power and grip.
Enjoy!
Nice! I have been trying to figure out when I can sneak away from the fam to do a track day. Might have to wait until the fall down here in SoCal anyways since it’s pretty warm right now. I will drive it around town to get used to it since it’s very different than my old STI. I will finish up the aero next month…hopefully.
I'll share a recommendation I got; maybe do an autocross first. I wasn't really thinking of it as it's been years, but it was a good shakedown. Helped find a few bugs before committing to a full track day.
Definitely not a bad idea. I started with autocross a few years back. I can see how it could help with seeing the braking and weight transfer is with a mid engine vs front engine. There are a couple of events coming up for that too in the next couple months.
Progress has been slow lately waiting for parts and lots of things going on at home. I finally got the flex fuel module back and installed so things are running well on E85. I am still waiting to get the Professional Awesome racing splitter rods and mounts to finish the front splitter. I did receive my 9 Lives Racing wing or wang as they call it so that is what I am working on now. The last two weeks I was able to fab an aluminum floor under the engine and trans. I first tried making it two pieces but then realized there was not enough room for the fasteners for both sheets on the cross bar under the trans. I tried to braze the two pieces together to salvage the metal and cost but at 0.040" thick it was comical how quickly the metal warped. I had to suck it up and buy another sheet, cut it out as once piece, and then fit it up. It came out pretty decent and then I left room for future diffuser mounting pickups.
IMG_0852.jpg IMG_0851.jpg
I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a portable bandsaw and a portable bandsaw stand to help with the wing structure. It worked like a charm so you can see my little set up last Friday. I got most of the structure cut and welded in the car. I need some more weld tabs to integrate it and then need to rethink there the oil cooler will go. I forgot about the shifter cable on the left side which is exactly where I had the oil cooler modeled up. I modeled up an oil cooler duct so I am going to try a website I found to 3D print one since I did not find one that fit my requirements.
IMG_0853.jpg IMG_0854.jpg
Last edited by blomb11; 09-03-2024 at 06:07 PM.
Looking good!
I'm planning to add a wing over the winter; I like your support plan. I'm starting to feel it get loose powering out of corners, so I think the wing is needed.
I'm considering the second cutout in the rear bumper like you have. Does it help air flow out of the engine area? It's not really clear, looking at the few wind tunnel vids out there. Seems like it might stagnate in that flat bumper area.
I may try it anyway; when I come off the track, the engine cover is so hot I can barely touch it.
Credit to Hobby Racer for the wing structure inspiration
I have not tested the rear cutouts yet but from many people on the forum and the few drives I have taken the engine bay heats up quick. So I want to try to move as much air through there as possible to try and keep things cool. I am hoping with the flat bottom and forcing the air through the enlarged side vents will help push it through the bumper openings.
Making progress on the rear wing. I know the roll bar is going to disrupt the air going to wing but I am not sure how high it should sit. I am open to feedback from the forum on this so any suggestions? The rear roll bar measures 16” and the pylon measures 20”.
IMG_0872.jpg
I have no scientific data to back this up but I used an airfoil off an ultralight landing strut to smooth out the air around the top roll bar.
Starting the air foil for the upper roll bar
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
What he said! The drag from a round tube is greater than the drag from an airfoil shape.
Kit #361, arrived 10/2015, still in progress
818C highly modified, corvette suspension
Estimated completion summer 2023!
1989 turbo Supra 5 sp
2017 Tundra
Yes, 14" APR pylons.
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
I can’t stop starring at the car anytime I am in the garage! I finished up the wing structure, mounted the 9 Lives Racing wing, and finished the front splitter. I just put a couple layers of fiber glass over the elevator bolts in the splitter to keep them secure and then filled in the lip around the splitter to hopefully help with the air flow. The splitter really lowers the front and I scrapped big time getting out of the driveway. I am battling the same misfire in cylinder #2 CEL. I am working with my tuner to see if he can decrease the sensitivity for the light weight flywheel. I also had an overboost which is odd. Trying to get it stable so I can take longer drives and get to the track. The e85 in the tank is over a year old so that probably doesn’t help so I pumped it out and got some fresh e85.
Next up is to plumb the trans and oil coolers.
IMG_0924.jpg IMG_0922.jpg IMG_0936.jpg IMG_0875.jpg IMG_0874.jpg IMG_0937.jpg
Last edited by blomb11; 10-09-2024 at 12:58 AM.
It is nice to see the fruits of your labor. I often times catch myself staring at my car and thinking, Wow, I built that!
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
Beautiful!
I did a lot of research and settled on a Fluidampr. I've got a lightweight Perrin if anybody wants one.
Ed
I thought about the fluidampr. If I keep having issues might scoop one of those up.
The fab work looks great!
I actually ended up moving my splitter in an inch after a couple of track days. I think it's still working well, the front is really planted on turn-in, but the farther out the more it scraped, hinders loading etc. Don't know if there is an optimal position or "more is better?"
A wing will be one of the winter projects.
It has been a frustrating few weeks. I am still trying to diagnose my cylinder 1 and/or 2 misfires. It is an odd behavior because the car starts up and initially runs fine. The first few minutes of the drive everything seems fine, pulls, and sounds normal. Then after a few minutes of driving and at random intervals I see the CEL flash and the exhaust tone is vastly different. It changes to a muffled rumble which is odd because I have an equal length header. Sometimes the CEL will go away but then it will come back after a couple minutes. I have verified the plugs, coil packs, injectors, and fuel pressure are all good. I ran a boost leak test which did show a couple loose fittings so I fixed those, but the next drive I still saw the CEL. I am on a MAF tune and the MAF seems fine after looking at the log showing good measurements. It is not an OEM MAF so there is that too. The first time it showed I was running 45% e85 and now I have 75% e85 in the tank. I am down to it either being an issue with the flex fuel tune or a bad ground in the wiring harness. I was talking with someone who had similar issues and it ended up being an issue with the spliced ground in his engine harness. So I think I will drain the tank and try one last time on 91 to see if it is the tune. Otherwise I will pull the engine harness, fill the grounds with solder, and strain relieve them.
I just got a code P0031 over the weekend. Wasn't too hard to diagnose. But now I need to pull the header off to fish out the broken off parts.
o2 sensor.jpgP0031.jpg
ooof thats a wild failure
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.