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Thread: Coyote Gen 3 drop out

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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Coyote Gen 3 drop out

    Any hesitation on using a Gen 3 Bullitt drop out with the larger gt350 TB as the donor engine? Still need a TKX, bell housing, flywheel, clutch components. Any other parts? Can I reuse the alternator and power steering? Thx

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    assuming it's similar to a normal Gen III: alternator yes, power steering I believe the stock is no, but FFR has a kit they'll sell you. You'll also need to swap oil the oil pan, the stock is too big, I think the only option is Moroso. Here's a link to the Gen III instructions: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ter-rev-1i.pdf, should give you a good idea of what the Gen III fit is like and whether there's anything additional you may need to consider. I also recommend calling them, they have put just about every V8 in these things and may be able to give you a good idea of what might be special for yours.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivery 10/12/23
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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashuanuke View Post
    assuming it's similar to a normal Gen III: alternator yes, power steering I believe the stock is no, but FFR has a kit they'll sell you. You'll also need to swap oil the oil pan, the stock is too big, I think the only option is Moroso. Here's a link to the Gen III instructions: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ter-rev-1i.pdf, should give you a good idea of what the Gen III fit is like and whether there's anything additional you may need to consider. I also recommend calling them, they have put just about every V8 in these things and may be able to give you a good idea of what might be special for yours.
    Good tip. Yeah forgot about the pan. What about the starter?
    Ive been staring at the instructions for a while now, only part I feel iffy on is the TB is a larger size and how that affects the available intakes for our cars.

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    Senior Member nuhale's Avatar
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    A pullout engine is not a bad approach. Doing a gen2 pullout that I completely rebuilt for my current coupe build. Went crate with my roadster. What you described will be fine for a roadster. As stated, you will need to swap oil pan & pickup. The stock alt will be fine. Many upgrade to the BOSS302 alternator kit. In addition to the drivetrain comp you describe (bell, clutch, trans etc) you will also need a new control pack. It is possible to use the pull out computer/harness but requires much surgery and flashing or reprograming the computer. It's a better option to just bite the bullet and get a new control pack. You can find these online and are quite expensive ($2K+). Power by the hour is a good source too or give Mike Forte a call. He can get you setup. The instructions send in prior post is a good source for what all is needed. Power steering is an easy one. Assuming you're going with a hydro pump style I would go with a KRC or Mike forte setup. Both bolt right upto a coyote engine and require a little plumbing work. No biggie. Use a BBB 1010107 rack and some FFR rack extenders to prevent bump steer.

    One last edit/thought. A tune will be required as well so make sure you consider that in your budget. Many use Lund but I went with a local shop here in the Chicago area.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by nuhale; 09-11-2024 at 03:29 PM.
    Build 1: MKIV #7275 Gen 2 Coyote TK600, IRS 3.55 2020 Graduated
    Build 2: Gen3 65 Coupe: Arrived June 2024. Gen 2 Coyote, T56, IRS 3.55

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    Member Stangarang's Avatar
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    Depending on what features the Bullitt had would determine the amperage of the alternator. My 2019 Mustang GT has heated and cooled seats. It has a 200amp alternator. The stock one should be good though.
    Michael

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    Member Stangarang's Avatar
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    Also, I don't know if you have a roadster or a coupe. The TKX may need a forward located shifter. Keep an eye on the flywheel to bellhousing clearance. They have a habit of rubbing and may need ground on the bellhousing.
    Michael

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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    I'm also guessing if they accidentally jacked a wire on the original harness it wont matter since the Ford control pack will replace it anyway? The battery ground wire looks a bit rough also.

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    The Moroso pan is $300. Don’t worry about that part!

    I’d be more concerned about the functionality and life left from a pullout. I’m getting ready to order my engine from Fraser, which will be a Gen 2 Coyote. When installed with their sales department last week, they assured me that they can provide any engine for any year of any car—some just may take more time than others.
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    Senior Member Kbl7td's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mbufford View Post
    The Moroso pan is $300. Don’t worry about that part!

    I’d be more concerned about the functionality and life left from a pullout. I’m getting ready to order my engine from Fraser, which will be a Gen 2 Coyote. When installed with their sales department last week, they assured me that they can provide any engine for any year of any car—some just may take more time than others.
    Life left? Most pullouts are from engines with less than 50k. That’s just a break in for a coyote or LS. I’d be surprised if anyone on the forum even has close to 50k miles on their roadster or coupe after building.

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    Senior Member gbranham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M22_COBRA View Post
    Good tip. Yeah forgot about the pan. What about the starter?
    Ive been staring at the instructions for a while now, only part I feel iffy on is the TB is a larger size and how that affects the available intakes for our cars.
    Put a stock Coyote TB back on it...cheap and easy. You'll need it tuned if you switch back, but you'd need it tuned even if you stay with the GT350 TB.
    Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbranham View Post
    Put a stock Coyote TB back on it...cheap and easy.
    What's the complication? I have friends at Pegasus and can draw a custom hose?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbl7td View Post
    Life left? Most pullouts are from engines with less than 50k. That’s just a break in for a coyote or LS. I’d be surprised if anyone on the forum even has close to 50k miles on their roadster or coupe after building.
    And with the pullout LS or Coyote, especially from something like a GT350, you have no way of knowing how much that engine was abused or how well it was maintained. I certainly would never want a used transmission from a car like that. It’s not risk I would take myself—I like having Fraser’s no-fault 5 year warranty—but to each their own.
    MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    UPDATE: So I pulled the trigger on it. It was a VERY CLEAN Gen 3 pull out from a 2020 Bullitt Mustang with only 15238 Miles. The price was right so I did it. Shout out to Domestic Performance Recyclers in Cutlerville Michigan just south of Grand Rapids. Jordan the owner and operator took good care of me, answered any questions, nice shop, very clean, overall good guy to support if you are looking to go this route.
    Came full bore with a bunch of stuff I CANT use like the MT82, pedal box, PS, PCM, the Bullitt shifter, but it did come with some things that may help until I get the control pack, tko 600, clutch, bell housing...... Things it had like the clutch switch and the throttle pedal are in hand so I can mock up now vs later. I also figure the harness wont change much so it will help me make better judgements on where I want fire wall holes, regulator, ect. Lots of great info here for sure but it helps to see it yourself.

    New question I have is.... Is there anything usable off the MT82 for our car? I think the flywheel is a NO but wasn't sure about the clutch, or the hydraulic TB.

    PXL_20240916_232335943.jpgPXL_20240916_183547547.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20240916_232324136.jpgPXL_20240916_194120144.jpgPXL_20240916_194053386.jpg
    Last edited by M22_COBRA; 09-17-2024 at 06:49 AM.

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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Oh and something else. Does anybody know the proper way to prime the engine oil on these? I'd like to flood it once just to keep it wet, this baby may sit for a while. Ive seen people go thru the oil psi sensor with a -6an hose and a sprayer, but Ive also read that if you pull the sensor the engine has limp mode issues??? Not sure how that would happen priming with the engine off. Just need the facts. Thx

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    Senior Member Lidodrip's Avatar
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    I had a Gen 2 pullout that came with a bunch of extra stuff (headers, clutch, AC, etc) I didn't need and was successful selling all of it on eBay. I ended up recouping about a $1000 - made the engine a great deal. Price it right and be patient.

    James
    Mk4 Roadster #9974 - Picked Up 1/2021. Complete kit, Gen 2 Ford Coyote / TKX, IRS. Completed 9/2023

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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lidodrip View Post
    I had a Gen 2 pullout that came with a bunch of extra stuff (headers, clutch, AC, etc) I didn't need and was successful selling all of it on eBay. I ended up recouping about a $1000 - made the engine a great deal. Price it right and be patient.

    James
    Did you have it all pallet wrapped and sent to the FedEx shipping center?

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    Senior Member Lidodrip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M22_COBRA View Post
    Did you have it all pallet wrapped and sent to the FedEx shipping center?
    I sold each piece individually and was able to package them up in boxes and send via UPS or USPS - eBay has significantly discounted shipping rates.

    James
    Mk4 Roadster #9974 - Picked Up 1/2021. Complete kit, Gen 2 Ford Coyote / TKX, IRS. Completed 9/2023

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M22_COBRA View Post
    UPDATE: So I pulled the trigger on it. It was a VERY CLEAN Gen 3 pull out from a 2020 Bullitt Mustang with only 15238 Miles. The price was right so I did it. Shout out to Domestic Performance Recyclers in Cutlerville Michigan just south of Grand Rapids. Jordan the owner and operator took good care of me, answered any questions, nice shop, very clean, overall good guy to support if you are looking to go this route.
    Came full bore with a bunch of stuff I CANT use like the MT82, pedal box, PS, PCM, the Bullitt shifter, but it did come with some things that may help until I get the control pack, tko 600, clutch, bell housing...... Things it had like the clutch switch and the throttle pedal are in hand so I can mock up now vs later. I also figure the harness wont change much so it will help me make better judgements on where I want fire wall holes, regulator, ect. Lots of great info here for sure but it helps to see it yourself.

    New question I have is.... Is there anything usable off the MT82 for our car? I think the flywheel is a NO but wasn't sure about the clutch, or the hydraulic TB.

    PXL_20240916_232335943.jpgPXL_20240916_183547547.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20240916_232324136.jpgPXL_20240916_194120144.jpgPXL_20240916_194053386.jpg
    Looks clean. Should be solid with that many miles assuming it wasn't abused. Regarding the clutch and flywheel on the Gen 3, this is a partial quote from my Coupe build where I had one of the first Gen 3 Coyote crate motors.

    "The dual mass flywheel and twin disc clutch new with the Gen 3 Coyote will NOT work with my planned QuickTime bell housing and T-56 transmission. The input shaft on the T-56 is 4.5625 inches from the face of the bell housing to where the shaft would be against the race of the pilot bearing. With the QuickTime RM-8080 bell housing on the engine, that same distance with the dual mass flywheel is 3.375 inches. A difference of 1.1875 and no possible way to work. The RM-8080 bell is the only option for the Coyote + T-56 combination at this time. My plan at the moment is to remove the dual mass flywheel and replace with a M-6375-M50 billet flywheel like I used on #8674. I’m HOPING the crankshaft has the same 8-bolt connection underneath the currently installed dual mass flywheel and the usual pocket for the pilot bearing."

    Fast forward, the Coupe has been done for several years, on the road for almost 8,000 miles, and the parts above worked once the OE parts were removed. Short of using the MT82 and related as is the flywheel, clutch, etc. all have to be changed out. Lots more info about the Gen 3 Coyote crate motor in my Coupe build thread linked in my sig line, in case you haven't seen it. Plenty of other Gen 3 Coyote experiences by others since then.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-18-2024 at 10:39 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looks clean. Should be solid with that many miles assuming it wasn't abused. Regarding the clutch and flywheel on the Gen 3, this is a partial quote from my Coupe build where I had one of the first Gen 3 Coyote crate motors.
    Yeah Edward, super clean. The tags everywhere are still on it and mint. The original owner just ran out of talent or had a moment that forced them off road.
    Your echoing everything I'm reading on MT82, planned on it anyway.
    Reading thru the install instructions it looks like they "T" into the oil pressure port and it has two sensors per FFR? Is one stock oil PSI and one Oil temp? I'm at my fifth read of the instructions at this point and that part was a lil confusing. I'm going back to your 20th anny thread for reference next.

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    Senior Member M22_COBRA's Avatar
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    Looking ahead... There is a wiring harness that went to the starter, transmission, and I assume the battery cable that went along the bottom of the engine. Can I assume the RF harness and Ford control pack harness replaces this and the only wiring harness I need to be concerned with keeping is the one up top that is ignition related? This is the one I'm taking about. It had the ground cut by the fire department, I guess it's a standard procedure
    PXL_20240919_232810981.jpgPXL_20240919_232804521.jpgPXL_20240919_232757312.jpg

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M22_COBRA View Post
    Yeah Edward, super clean. The tags everywhere are still on it and mint. The original owner just ran out of talent or had a moment that forced them off road. Your echoing everything I'm reading on MT82, planned on it anyway.
    Reading thru the install instructions it looks like they "T" into the oil pressure port and it has two sensors per FFR? Is one stock oil PSI and one Oil temp? I'm at my fifth read of the instructions at this point and that part was a lil confusing. I'm going back to your 20th anny thread for reference next.
    The OE Gen 3 oil pressure gauge has to remain. A change from previous versions. The "T" you're seeing is to add the sensor for the oil pressure gauge on the dash. Requires its own unfortunately. An oil temp sensor, if used, is on the oil pan. The Moroso pan typically used has a port for it. I had an oil temp gauge on one build and didn't find it useful. But I'm admittedly mainly a street driver. More important for a tracked car. Be careful with the 20th anniversary build thread. That's a Gen 2 Coyote.

    Quote Originally Posted by M22_COBRA View Post
    Looking ahead... There is a wiring harness that went to the starter, transmission, and I assume the battery cable that went along the bottom of the engine. Can I assume the RF harness and Ford control pack harness replaces this and the only wiring harness I need to be concerned with keeping is the one up top that is ignition related? This is the one I'm taking about. It had the ground cut by the fire department, I guess it's a standard procedure
    PXL_20240919_232810981.jpgPXL_20240919_232804521.jpgPXL_20240919_232757312.jpg
    Yes, between the Ford Performance control pack and the RF harness, the starter and alternator are covered. And yes, the ignition and related wiring on the top of the engine must remain, including the large connectors that go into the PCM. My Coupe build thread with the Gen 3 has a number of pictures of the crate Gen 3 and the wiring used with the control pack. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post338094

    Paul B. (EdwardB)
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  31. #22
    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mbufford View Post
    The Moroso pan is $300. Don’t worry about that part!

    I’d be more concerned about the functionality and life left from a pullout. I’m getting ready to order my engine from Fraser, which will be a Gen 2 Coyote. When installed with their sales department last week, they assured me that they can provide any engine for any year of any car—some just may take more time than others.
    That’s where I got my Gen 2 from.
    Build 1 MK4 #10008 - Delivered 03/03/21, Graduated 7/20/22 - Sold 6/6/24
    Build Thread #1 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Build 2 MK4 #11061- Delivered 08/24/24
    Build Thread #2 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...006#post562006

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