LS Powered Tennessee Build

[Jimmy B]

I finally have done the inventory, hung up the body, the frame is on jack-stands and now I am looking forward to the build.
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[JimStone]

Woohoo! What LS package are you thinking?

[Jimmy B]

Woohoo! What LS package are you thinking?

My nephew has a 5.3 complete engine with an aluminum block that he is shipping to me. Just a new cam, new manifold, new oil pump, timing chain, TSP Texas Speed LS7 Lifters and trays, and a cast aluminum corvette oil pan is the plan so far. Shooting for 400 or so HP. I already have the TKX 5 speed tranny from Forte as well as a hydraulic clutch.

[Its Bruce]

Good stuff. Keep us updated and let us know how we can help

[OB6]

Sounds like a fun build. I'll be following.

[Jimmy B]

Took an idea from Terry's LS build and welded some grounding points to the frame before hauling it over to the powder coaters. Now doing little things like changing the Ford Mustang lugs over to the FFR supplied lugs. Probably do a few other little things while I wait on the frame.
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[Jimmy B]

While waiting for the powder coating to be completed, I screwed in the IFS ball joints and drilled the 5/8 inch holes in both the spindles and the pumpkin. I lopped off the ears on the spindles using a battery powered bandsaw which I borrowed. That is an amazing tool! I disassembled and painted the front brakes. Frame should be back in a few days.
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[Its Bruce]

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If you're planning on having power steering, you'll want to trim these adjustment sleeves in order to get an appreciable amount of caster.

Ref. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...for-street-use

[Jimmy B]

If you're planning on having power steering, you'll want to trim these adjustment sleeves in order to get an appreciable amount of caster.

Ref. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...for-street-use

I do plan on power steering. So it appears on the upper control arm, the rear link on both sides should be shortened in order to get the preferred 7-8 degree caster. I see the bolts should each should be shortened by 1/4 inch. What is the final correct length of the sleeve to make this work?

[Its Bruce]

I do plan on power steering. So it appears on the upper control arm, the rear link on both sides should be shortened in order to get the preferred 7-8 degree caster. I see the bolts should each should be shortened by 1/4 inch. What is the final correct length of the sleeve to make this work?

There's no "correct" length other than being about 1/4" shorter than they are now. I simply had the non-hex OD's on each end machined off and it was fine. Full disclosure: I never machined the bolts and I'm successfully running 9.3° caster.

[Jimmy B]

Got the frame back from powdercoating. All went well. Since my upper control arms are out being shortened slightly (thanks guys), I decided to work on the rear end and now the pumpkin is IN. Pretty straightforward, took three of us, two lifters and one supervisor.
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[JimStone]

Love the bronze powder coat. Looks great

[Jimmy B]

I put in the IRS. Not terrible but a couple of the arms were too tight to get onto the spindle without a lot of coaxing. Too bad the IRS is going to be covered up because it does look cool. Also posted a pic that proves there is a magnetic force in my garage. I dropped a bolt with a nut on it and it rolled a solid 12 feet before coming to rest directly under the middle of my parked truck.
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[Mike.Bray]

Too bad the IRS is going to be covered up because it does look cool.

I agree, it's a shame to cover it up. Especially if you chrome the half shafts to give a show when in motion.

I always did IRS in my street rods.

[rkl20678]

I finally have done the inventory, hung up the body, the frame is on jack-stands and now I am looking forward to the build.
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Nice shop! Have fun.

[BRRT]

Some great looking LS builds going on!

[Blitzboy54]

The bronze is first rate. I told myself I would go with an LS but pulled the trigger on a Coyote instead. Perhaps a 33 LS pickup one of these days.

I’m envious of your shop. I can tell already your build is going to be fun to watch.

[Jimmy B]

I put in the gas tank with no issues. I did the Jeff K mod as you can see in the pics. I used the in-tank fuel pump just like Budget LS build. Good info there and I didn't have to reinvent the wheel.
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Here is the tank and here is the fuel pump I used.
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I used a little lube from the old SCUBA days to grease up the o-rings.
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Then confirmed it was oriented with a quick visual.
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Lifted the tank up and put it in place. Used 4 inch all-thread to easily reach so we didn't have to fight it.
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All in all, no surprises and no issues so far.

[Jimmy B]

Followed the directions and installed the front suspension. I did each step first on one side, then on the other.
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I torqued everything to spec as I went and made a note in the instruction manual that it was done. Actually, I am writing a lot in the book. Mostly reminders of what I have done already and what I skipped. I am "tabbing" the pages I need to go back to.
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So far, nothing out of spec. The upper arms were much easier to adjust to the correct length for power steering AFTER they were on the frame. Once adjusted to the correct length, all were torqued to the specified weights.
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The blue tape was on items waiting for proper torque.
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Springs went in with the bodies in the opposite config (body up/body down) as the rear.
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No issues so far. Torque and grease as you go.

[Jimmy B]

Whoops, forgot to cut this little ear off. AND got ahead of myself, putting all four bolts through the hub without reading ahead in the book.
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No biggie. The one bolt came out easy with no disassembly and a saws-all knocked those ears off pretty fast. Waiting on one more back ordered piece from FFR...the second caliper bracket for the rear. Lesson learned though. Read it all, maybe twice, then work on it once you are sure you understand.

[Jimmy B]

[QUOTE=Blitzboy54;562531] Perhaps a 33 LS pickup one of these days.

My neighbor down the street is building the pickup. He used a Blueprint Engine SBC. He is go-carting it at present, waiting for paint.

[Jimmy B]

I put in the power steering without issue. I removed the plumbing, dropped it in place, then put the plumbing back on.
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I finished the front brakes, then ran the front flexible brake lines.
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Also put in the reservoirs for the front, rear brakes and clutch. Made this little bracket out of some aluminum I had which was a tad thicker than aluminum from FFR. I hope this location does not interfere with anything. I have seen other builds do similar.
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Good day in the shop. Making some progress.

[Blitzboy54]

I could not love the bronze frame and wheels any more. Just a spectacular color choice.

[Jimmy B]

Put in the steering today. It all lined right up without any issues. Pretty easy.
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Started working on the passenger foot box. I am sealing the outside surfaces with a heat reflective liner. I will tape all the seams with some high temp tape I have on order. The inside of the cockpit will get an insulated liner as well to keep down the heat and noise.
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I highly recommend the air rivet gun from HF. This is the better one of the two they sell and it works pretty good.
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By the way, it seems the post just displays the picture without regard to the orientation on my PC. Apologies.

[Mike.Bray]

By the way, it seems the post just displays the picture without regard to the orientation on my PC. Apologies.

There's a long explanation that I won't bore you with. But if you open them in Paint on your PC and resave it will sort out the rotation for you.

[Jimmy B]

Still building away. Installed almost all of the aluminum, ran the fuel lines, picked up a long block aluminum LS 5.3 from a builder in St. Cloud, Florida. Mild cam. Put on the ICT brackets and got all the correct components.. water pump, PS res, alternator and harmonic balancer. Also, picked up my Tennessee license plate and title. No inspections here.

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[Blitzboy54]

That engine is sexy.

[Its Bruce]

I see your water pump is looped on the heater side. Consider the following instead:

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Ref. http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...ble/index.html

[Jimmy B]

Very easy install with just two people. We put the car on wheel dollies and moved the car instead of the hoist to line everything up.
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Next, get those headers on somehow.
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then the radiator...
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Oh yeah, driveshaft... so much to do!
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[Jimmy B]

I torqued the headers on to the proper specs. The rear 2 bolts on the driver side could be accessed from below.
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The driveshaft went in without too much drama. I pulled the whole engine and tranny out so I could surgically remove all the destroyed plastic shipping plug in the tailpiece though. So actually I put the engine/tranny in twice. I am pretty good at it now.
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Some of my little bags of nuts and bolts are not quite up to the number stated on the bag. If it says "8", there may be "7".. and so on. Not a big deal as I have tons of nuts and bolts.

I started attaching the sidepipes. I ordered mine plain with no chrome. I had them coated with the stuff that is supposed to reduce the heat. Not sure I believe it but I guess it can't hurt. I also have heat shields to go on them that are coated as well.
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I am using a custom tool from "Lowes" to help position the pipes as you can see in the pic.

I put a silicon 45 degree angle intake tube on the Throttle body. I plan to put a conical, 10 inch long air filter on the end of it and it should fit right down into the space behind the radiator.
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You all have probably seen "Sinister Sally" in the background of some of these pictures. She is a very low T-Bucket with a carburetor topped stroked 383 and a 700R tranny. She has zero electronics and I know nothing about computers and fuel injection. I bought the Holley Terminator system and it looks like this-
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I am also thinking about having a radiator shop move the lower port in the supplied radiator over to the other side to better suit the LS. Either that or run a pretty long silicone radiator hose to it. Haven't decided.

[GoDadGo]

This build is going to set the new standard for Dark Side Rides!

....................Keep Up The Great Work!

[Mike.Bray]

I started attaching the sidepipes. I ordered mine plain with no chrome. I had them coated with the stuff that is supposed to reduce the heat. Not sure I believe it but I guess it can't hurt. I also have heat shields to go on them that are coated as well.

If you're talking about ceramic coating it will reduce the heat, I measured mine before and after and there was a reduction.

I put a silicon 45 degree angle intake tube on the Throttle body. I plan to put a conical, 10 inch long air filter on the end of it and it should fit right down into the space behind the radiator.

You could also 3D print a transition if you need something more ridged.

You all have probably seen "Sinister Sally" in the background of some of these pictures. She is a very low T-Bucket with a carburetor topped stroked 383 and a 700R tranny. She has zero electronics and I know nothing about computers and fuel injection. I bought the Holley Terminator system and it looks like this-

That Holley Terminator is a very nice system, no need to be concerned.

run a pretty long silicone radiator hose to it. Haven't decided.

You know silicone hoses will leak don't you? Coolant will leech through them.

Looking good!

[Jimmy B]

"You know silicone hoses will leak don't you? Coolant will leech through them."

Even the good ones? I thought it was just the ones bought off of E-Bay.

[Mike.Bray]

"You know silicone hoses will leak don't you? Coolant will leech through them."

Even the good ones? I thought it was just the ones bought off of E-Bay.

I believe it's the nature of the material. There's a couple of threads on here about leaking silicone hoses.

[OB6]

I believe it's the nature of the material. There's a couple of threads on here about leaking silicone hoses.

Mike is right, it's a characteristic of silicone. I think I've read that it's 10x more permeable to water than EPDM rubber.

[Jimmy B]

I see your water pump is looped on the heater side. Consider the following instead:

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Ref. http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...ble/index.html

Good read. I am considering this change.

[topherchrisb]

That valve cover set matching your frame and the intake setup are pretty cherry. I can't wait to see what the end result ends up being.

[OB6]

Good read. I am considering this change.

That's the routing I used, likely because Bruce shared it with me. It's easy to replace the 5/8" fitting with a screw-in plug. Then the other port goes to the surge tank.