Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - It's cold

[Blitzboy54]

Center Console

I am have been lurking on a lot of other build threads on the best way to construct a center console. I need to house a 7x4 in touch screen. I purchased one from Whitby my last build but never used it and sold it to someone else on the forum. I didn't work for me, just too bulky. I want something a little more minimal. I found a thread from 10 years ago and a fella posted plans to one he designed. I will update the thread when I find it again. It wasn't perfect for my use but it was a great starting point. I mocked it up in cardboard and started making adjustments





I decided to trim it down and have it bend at the corners of the button console portion of the dash. I trimmed down the cardboard then modified the plans to fit my needs.










I then mocked up where my buttons would go. I used the dash template and measured 5 evenly spaced holes represented by the blue dots. I want to put the head lights, wipers, hazards, heater fan and heater bypass in it. I put the console in and manually mocked the bigger switches. I then had to trim a little of the console off the top but everything will fit. I also have a 1/4 inch gap before the frame contacts the dash. This will be more than enough to account for the upholstery. I am going to try a carbon fiber wrap to match the dash. If I don't like it I may transition to black leather. We will see. It will be secured with rivnuts to the back panel with button head screws so I can remove it for access without taking off the dash.



Now that I have identified where everything is going to live I will break it down and return to the wiring.

[PNWTim]

That looks pretty good. It's hard to tell from the picture but does the lower center portion of your dash project far enough to act as an anti-glare eyebrow? I know a lot of the better screens you can see in full sunshine/broad daylight but every little bit helps.

[Blitzboy54]

That’s a good question. What it boils down to is there is only so much space to work with so you kind of get what you get. My last car I used a RAM phone holder. On real sunny days there wasn’t much you could do. I can’t put the screen any further back as I need the space for wiring and the unit itself is 5 inches deep. I was more concerned with how it looked against the dash ascetically.

Just for funnzies I powered it up outside to see how it looked and it showed out pretty well. At the end of the day I’m not using 75% of what this unit can do. Calls, music, voice text, Siri are all useless in a roadster. This is purely navigation, dash cam and backup camera

I just noticed your avatar. My kids were both born in OR. Wife and I still have 503 phone numbers. She loves the Ducks.

[PNWTim]

That’s a good question. What it boils down to is there is only so much space to work with so you kind of get what you get. My last car I used a RAM phone holder. On real sunny days there wasn’t much you could do. I can’t put the screen any further back as I need the space for wiring and the unit itself is 5 inches deep. I was more concerned with how it looked against the dash ascetically.

Just for funnzies I powered it up outside to see how it looked and it showed out pretty well. At the end of the day I’m not using 75% of what this unit can do. Calls, music, voice text, Siri are all useless in a roadster. This is purely navigation, dash cam and backup camera

I just noticed your avatar. My kids were both born in OR. Wife and I still have 503 phone numbers. She loves the Ducks.

Go Ducks! You guys are about as far away from Oregon as you can get these days.

For what it's worth, the newer screens seem capable of low angle resolution and have brightness capable of overcoming direct sunlight. I just know from personal experience I will overlook something until someone else says "what about fill in the blank" and I have an aha moment. I didn't realize how deep the unit is either. I should've though - I just put in a new dash insert and Kenwood head unit in my truck and those double DIN units are pretty deep.

Your build is looking great and coming along nicely.

[Blitzboy54]

Wiring continues

The cool thing about doing this a second time is when you know what you didn't the first time you have a better plan. One of the priorities of this one is I want to be able to separate the dash from the chassis if I need to by only removing the mounts and disconnecting connectors. There will be nothing wired that does not have a connector of some type if its mounted on the dash.

Last time I had ground screws all over the place. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach it worked fine but I wanted to be more organized this time. I created a master ground with some heavy wire and a self tapping screw after cleaning off all the powder coat. Now i have a one stop shop for all my stray grounds of which there are many.



I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.

I mounted the relay board for the parking brake so everything will tuck in nicely behind the head unit.



I posted this on another thread but this is a more appropriate place. These are the two leaders in the club house for paint scheme. I have played with some aqua blues. While I still have not completely ruled it I would have to make it a 4 color scheme for it to work.

[jengum]

Thanks for this. I was planning to add a 2nd fuse box for future accessory wiring. I didn't think about having a common bus bar for ground connections. How many spare circuits are you running in the wire loom to the rear trunk area?

[PNWTim]

I think the base orange/tangerine with grey stripes will really pop. The reverse will be much more subdued but still be an attention getter. It probably comes down to the statement you want to make .

[Namrups]

Wiring continues

The cool thing about doing this a second time is when you know what you didn't the first time you have a better plan. One of the priorities of this one is I want to be able to separate the dash from the chassis if I need to by only removing the mounts and disconnecting connectors. There will be nothing wired that does not have a connector of some type if its mounted on the dash.

Last time I had ground screws all over the place. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach it worked fine but I wanted to be more organized this time. I created a master ground with some heavy wire and a self tapping screw after cleaning off all the powder coat. Now i have a one stop shop for all my stray grounds of which there are many.



I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.

I mounted the relay board for the parking brake so everything will tuck in nicely behind the head unit.



I posted this on another thread but this is a more appropriate place. These are the two leaders in the club house for paint scheme. I have played with some aqua blues. While I still have not completely ruled it I would have to make it a 4 color scheme for it to work.

IMO I like the gray with orange stripes.

[cv2065]

Looking good Jessie. I think you've almost caught me. I like the Grey with Orange stripes personally. Either way, great build!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks for this. I was planning to add a 2nd fuse box for future accessory wiring. I didn't think about having a common bus bar for ground connections. How many spare circuits are you running in the wire loom to the rear trunk area?

Two, first is the backup lights (not required everywhere but NY they are). The second is a hot feed that will run a charging port in my rear cubby and go to a switch that will operate trunk lights.

I think the base orange/tangerine with grey stripes will really pop. The reverse will be much more subdued but still be an attention getter. It probably comes down to the statement you want to make .

Very good points

IMO I like the gray with orange stripes.

Appreciate it. FYI, I think I am going to probably drop the engine in early spring. I won't have tires until this winter and It will be cold and miserable. I'll reach out to the crew sometime in March/April.

Looking good Jessie. I think you've almost caught me. I like the Grey with Orange stripes personally. Either way, great build!

Not Even close Devil Dog, but thank you

[jengum]

If you would please put me on your notice list for the engine drop. I have a good idea how it's done based on other build threads but seeing it in person would be beneficial.

[Justin]

I think the bright stripes will look stunning!

[Blitzboy54]

I guess if I am sharing colors this has always been in the mix as well. It's not the front runner but I keep coming back to it.

BMW Atlantis (sometimes called Snapper Rock) Blue

[Blitzboy54]

I ran a hard line to the hydraulic clutch last time but I also used and external slave cylinder. Mike Forte sold me a hydraulic TOB this time around so a flex line seemed the better bet. I went with a ss braided -3an @ 36 inches this time. According to the collective this length should work out. I used a 3an to 1/8 NPT fitting and connected directly to the end of the MC.





Dash Template

So far I have been impressed with the quality of the CF dash. It is by far more rigid than any other options that FFR offers and it's a good looking piece. It is also not cheap. This brings me to the template that comes with it. It has marks for MK 1-2 or MK 3-4 for cutting the steering shaft opening. I used it and lined up my dash. It sets it a little higher than I wanted but not a big deal. Then I set the glove box and realized it did not clear the dash support. I needed to move it almost a full CM to the right. The hole is now completely jenky. I then researched it and those that know say to set the glove box first then cut the hole for the steering shaft. I didn't know that was a thing and I thought it was safe to assume the template would be close. It wasn't.

I get out of jail for free here because I am using Franks turn signal assy. The plate that mounts to the dash is 3 3/8 diameter so I am covered. I would have had to come up with some sort of bezel otherwise.





I made the adjustments I needed to. The turn signal bezel will cover it, I properly marked the dash for gauges, indicators, switches and accessories for level and clearance. I will be cutting and setting this weekend. I also mounted the dash using 4mm black powder coated hex machine screws. I like the look and preferred this to the hidden options that I had considered.

[TTimmy]

I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.

Hey Blitzboy - really enjoying your thread and look forward to seeing how it all plays out!

Regarding the power source for each of these bus bars, will each of the radio feeds provide enough power to support everything that will be connected? If this is a concern, you might consider adding relays and triggering them from each of the radio feeds. The power source for the relays would be the battery. Of course that complicates matters because then you either need fuses or circuit breakers for whatever is hanging off the bus bar.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... I also mounted the dash using 4mm black powder coated hex machine screws. I like the look and preferred this to the hidden options that I had considered.

Just an FYI; should you ever need to remove the dash once the body is on you won't be able to access those screws.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Just an FYI; should you ever need to remove the dash once the body is on you won't be able to access those screws.

Jeff

I understand. I gave it a lot of thought and with out boring everyone with all my neurotic reasons I decided I just didn't like any of the other options. My Tach and Speedo are 5 inches and easily removable as is the glove box. This gives me a lot of access. If I REALLY need to remove the dash then the body has to come off too and then, at that point, I may be disappointed in my life's choices.

As an aside, I got the sleeves welded in my roll bars today.

Thanks as always for looking out.

[PNWTim]

Jesse - can you refresh my memory on which gauges you are using? When you mentioned a 5" tach and Speedo I am thinking you must have gone aftermarket and somehow I missed it earlier in your thread.

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Blitzboy - really enjoying your thread and look forward to seeing how it all plays out!

Regarding the power source for each of these bus bars, will each of the radio feeds provide enough power to support everything that will be connected? If this is a concern, you might consider adding relays and triggering them from each of the radio feeds. The power source for the relays would be the battery. Of course that complicates matters because then you either need fuses or circuit breakers for whatever is hanging off the bus bar.

Thank you, I appreciate it.


The short answer is yes, there is enough. As you said at the end of the day all the power for everything short of spark comes from the battery. The only concern is would I be putting too large a load on those wires. I added up all the amp potential and it's very low. My biggest concern was the parking brake. It has a max current load of 3 amps. I am using less than 1 ( tested it with a small power supply that only has a max of 0.3 amps and the brake operated fine. The rest is less than an amp even if everything is running at the same time. The fuses in the RF harness for the Radio Memory is 15 amps. This is what I have the brake on. The ACC is 10 amp.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse - can you refresh my memory on which gauges you are using? When you mentioned a 5" tach and Speedo I am thinking you must have gone aftermarket and somehow I missed it earlier in your thread.

I am not using FFR supplied gauges but I am using Autometer. So really apples to apples to what FFR offers. I just went my own direction aesthetically

[Blitzboy54]

Dash

I have turned my focus to the dash. Plan is pretty straight forward. First make all the cuts, rough everything in, assemble the glove box and then get to all the wiring.

Fist things first. I have a fairly busy dash by design so lots of cuts. What I have learned about carbon fiber is I don't like working with carbon fiber. It is nice and rigid, pretty easy to cut but that dust gets everywhere. I wore a respirator but the little fibers get all over your skin and can be itchy. I also had to pull a couple of splinters. Headed right to the shower after all the cutting and sanding. The only issue I had is the small gauge holes a touch too large. I undersized the big 5 inch holes and opened them slowly, that was the plan with the other ones too but I didn't set my bit quite right. They are fine, everything fits nice I just couldn't make them any bigger.



I went with BIG 5 inch tach and speedo. I really like the look although it has that old guy extra big text font vibe. This is fine with me. The 3 white gauges are LED lit and go from white with silver numbers to black with red numbers with the headlights on. The black gauges are traditional incandescent but I put red back lights in them. When my steering hub arrives it will have the turn signal, horn and high beam integrated into it. The only hole I didn't cut is the ignition. I have not decided on what push button ignition I want to use but I know where it will go when I choose it.





Glove box

I broke everything back down and built the glove box. I did have one issue. First the bar that the hinges attach to are pre drilled. The holes do not line up with the glove box holes. They needed to be widened significantly. The other is the aluminum plate that gets epoxied to the glove box door. The grooves that go around the hinges needed to be cut a CM deeper. If you don't the plate doesn't fit right. Originally I wanted to install a push button lockable latch. I don't love having to use a key every time but all the latches I found were too big. I did however find this one that better fits the look of the dash. It uses a round key and looks pretty sharp. I also lined the box with felt, I am unsure If I will also line the door. We will see.







US Customs

Lastly I mentioned in another thread. My custom seats, transmission tunnel cover and door cards were made by Intatrim. They are in the UK. My stuff shipped last week but was flagged at Customs because the shipper messed up some of the paperwork. The declared value didn't match the commercial invoice. They sent the correct paperwork within 24 hours and FedEx uploaded these documents to them. That was a week ago. All I know is my stuff is in Ft. Worth TX and I have no idea when or if I will ever see it. I am cautiously optimistic this will eventually get resolved but who knows. So in the mean time I will continue to work on the build and try to keep a positive attitude about it.

[Blitzboy54]

Aaaaand just as I typed it my stuff was released from customs. Yay, delivery scheduled for tomorrow.....

All stressed out for nothing

[cv2065]

Happy to see you got your seats coming. Has to be a big relief. Your dash is looking great! Are you planning to have removal access once the body is on?

[Blitzboy54]

Happy to see you got your seats coming. Has to be a big relief. Your dash is looking great! Are you planning to have removal access once the body is on?

I am relieved for sure.

I can’t find a way to do it that I like. As of right now, no. Like most things I reserve the right to change my mind.

[PNWTim]

I am relieved for sure.

I can’t find a way to do it that I like. As of right now, no. Like most things I reserve the right to change my mind.

Building a car is synonymous with changing your mind...

[jengum]

Where did you source the five indicator lights to the left of the tachometer?

Also did you decide on a source for the backup light? I was looking at your first build thread photos and it looks like there are LED lights mounted mounted below the trunk area? I see some builders are using the mini Cooper lights which are DOT compliant but require a body cutout for mounting.

The competition dash looks great.

[Blitzboy54]

Where did you source the five indicator lights to the left of the tachometer?

Also did you decide on a source for the backup light? I was looking at your first build thread photos and it looks like there are LED lights mounted mounted below the trunk area? I see some builders are using the mini Cooper lights which are DOT compliant but require a body cutout for mounting.

The competition dash looks great.

As of right now I am going to use the same lights as last time. Very small and DOT approved. Now that I have a backup camera I will do some testing first though. I may make them bigger and brighter since they will serve an actual purpose. If you want I have some extras. You are welcome to take two of them if that's the route you want to go.

The indicators I got here. Dark but colorful when lit. Just the right size for my build.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Blitzboy54]

Finishing up the dash wiring. I am waiting on some diodes for the hazards and the rest of the stray wires go into the steering hub. That will house directional, horn and high beams. I secured the dash harness and tested all the circuits with an external power supply. it all seems to be working as it should. Autometer does not make a 16-158 ohm fuel gauge in the style I wanted but they do offer a fully programmable one. I tried to pre program it but I don't think my little power supply had a enough juice to make the program feature work. Have to wait until I get a proper battery to complete that task



Odd little happenstance my hazard button I purchased from Billet Buttons failed. It stopped latching and doesn't operate properly.Weird because they are generally well made. I am assuming I just got a random dud. in the mean time I have a spare button I was going to use for something else that I can use. I may keep it




My upholstery arrived from Intatrim safe and sound. Incredibly well made stuff. They are not cheap but for what you get and that they are 100 percent custom made to order the cost is quite reasonable. The quality is exceptional. The trans cover has a layer of foam already attached and it is slightly oversized which is perfect. The door cards are wrapped around plywood. Really nice stuff.



I set them in and the fit is great. The seat base is smaller than the last set I used and they have a lot of adjustability. The Monaco's I used previously only fit one way and not by a lot. They were also very heavy these are feather lite. These also sit very low so if you use a riser our mount you have a lot of room to work with. I am smitten. I purchased on set of FFR sliders that I never used but still have. I am going to mock up the drivers seat with it to see if that works. I would like to be able to move the seat. if for no other reason than to move the seat forward to clean behind it.

[OB6]

Looks great, I love orange.

And those 2" roll bars make a big difference. I just ordered a set.

[jengum]

What are the diodes for? I saw another discussion thread about using diodes with the hazardous flasher billet button. Is there a specific wiring diagram for this?

[Blitzboy54]

What are the diodes for? I saw another discussion thread about using diodes with the hazardous flasher billet button. Is there a specific wiring diagram for this?

The dash wiring for turn signal system for FFR is setup where you run two sets of wires for the turn signals. Left is dark green and right is light blue (there are some other wires for the rear lights bundled in there too but not relevant here) There are 2 separate switches for the turn signal and the hazards. The turn signal has a grey 12v wire fed from the ACC circuit that applies power to either the right or left depending on the position of the switch. The kit comes with a Double Pole Single Throw switch for the hazards. That switch is fed from a pink 12v wire that is fed from the Battery circuit. The switch is designed so that the blue and green do not touch electrically. If they did when you used the turn signal all 4 lights would flash because you would have created a short, but you need power to both sides so the pink wire has a jumper to apply power to both the left and right side when activated.

I don't want to use that switch, I am using one from Billet Buttons. This button is a traditional On Off. The issue is how do you apply power with this switch to both the left and right without having the left and right connected to each other because if they do touch again the turn signals wont work right. So you can either use a different switch or put diodes in line with the turn signals. Diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. You can apply power through them when you activate but you will not have electrical continuity between the turn signal wires. You just have to make sure you install them in the correct direction.

[Blitzboy54]

As I round third base on the dash I wanted to add a handle and re enforce the dash. The number one thing you will end up telling everyone that gets in the passenger seat for the first time is not to use the windshield to support themselves. It is not load bearing. I like having a grab rail. It gives people something to use to sit and pull themselves up.



In order to make this functional it has to be bolted to the frame. I used a generic steel strip and bent it to form with a little heat, my vise and a big ol hammer. I drilled and tapped the holes for M8 bolts.





It also has the bonus of locking the bottom of the dash down. There is zero flex now. I added a steel strap to the drivers side as well. Before final assembly I will likely powder coat the straps. They will rust in the humidity if you don't



I re designed the head unit enclosure a bit. The rake was too deep. It created a number of fitment issues. I also had made the first one with galvanized steel. I ordered a proper piece of aluminum (.040) and it is much more rigid. I flattened it out a bit and made it a touch shorter I added a few strips of heat mat under the trans dash and set the cover on it so I could measure with everything at it's final thickness. Everything fits much better now



I pulled everything down and finished the wiring. I installed diodes on the hazard input and tested. Everything works exactly as it should. I also put the rest of the switches in permanently. My bottom row of switches is (from left to right) Heater core bypass valve, heater fan, hazards, wipers and headlights.



Lastly I wrapped the enclosure in carbon fiber wrap, it matches the dash nicely and the head unit looks nice against it.

[PNWTim]

Looking really good. The CF wrap is great to tie it in with the dash.

[Namrups]

Where do you get the carbon fiber wrap?

[Blitzboy54]

Where do you get the carbon fiber wrap?

I broke the bank. LOL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

[jcarcustom]

Good Luck and have a fun with your project! Awesome project!

[Its Bruce]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

Those are Stoneleighs.

[ydousurf]

Blitz, the dash looks awesome and thanks for the link to the vinyl wrap too! I was planning on doing my lower dash kick-out and trans tunnel in real carbon fiber, but maybe this an easier route to go? I’ll have to decide on which direction to go. Again thanks for sharing that info.

Jeff, here is a link to those seats. They are the model: Stoneleigh - (Not cheap but you can go full customized with them).
https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/

I was considering getting those as well, but now I’m thinking of getting Corbeau Evolution X seats. I’m just not sure if these will fit?

Doug

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

As others have said they are Stoneleigh. I learned about these from Hacksaw84's build. He was the first one I had ever seen use them.

Just to educate anyone that is interested this is how it works. Reach out to Robin via the websites email. He will give you pricing and lead time. You can also call but if you don't have an international plan I recommend using Whatsapp or Google voice. Calls to the UK are very pricey. Once you've agreed on everything he requires payment up front. He uses Paypal and it does the conversion for you. Once paid you can provide him with anything to show him what you want.

Mine were about 12 weeks. Once complete he will send you some pics and then ship them.

Just to give you an idea I sent him this picture that looks like the work of a pre schooler



and he returned me this 20 minutes later