Wedel456's Build Thread - Gen3 Coupe - North Carolina

[wedel456]

Now that all my panels are done, powder coating completed (at least for the 100 percent necessary panels at this point), the engine is on order, and I have worked out the switch and relay situation, I started thinking about how I wanted to run the wiring. After reviewing multiple builds, I decided I like the clean and hidden wiring path of @P100DHG and the Ron Francis location from @EdwardB.

Wiring Paths:

1. The Ron Francis wiring will be installed under the driver's side dash, with most of it being hidden by the custom panel.
2. The Ron Francis wiring will run through the upper right-hand corner of the custom panel into the back of the dash and then down through holes drilled through the left top side Front Top Transmission Cover.
   Electical Panel Location 1.jpg Electical Panel Location 2.jpg
3. All front harnesses will run down the transition tubing, then along the driver's side bottom frame rails, splitting to go out to the engine components (tach, oil pressure, water temp, etc.), and then to a split for the headlights and fan. This is the same wiring path as P100DHG. This is the optimal path if you are looking for the wires to almost completely disappear
4. The rear harness will go in the opposite direction, following the brake lines, then splitting to the left and right taillights and the required wiring for the sending unit and fuel pump.
5. The main battery feed, starter wiring, etc will run along the passenger side frame rail up through the transmission tunnel to Ron Francis MS-01, documented below.

Main Power Plan:

For the main power setup, I have decided on the following configuration:

1. Battery - I will be using an Odyssey PC925 battery for its compact size and reliability along with their terminal kit (could not find the PC925T with easy shipping and this ended up being cheaper). The terminals for both positive and negative will be soldered crimpless terminals and protected by covers (positive and negative)
2. Battery to Disconnect - A #2 AWG cable will run from the battery to the Ron Francis MS-01 disconnect located on the passenger side of the cockpit, near the transmission side panel.
3. Battery to Starter - On the same feed post of the disconnect, a #4 AWG cable will run to the starter.
4. Under Dash Power - On the switched side, I’ll be using a #6 AWG cable to power a 150A bus bar that will be installed somewhere inside the cockpit, behind the dash.
5. Battery Grounding - The main ground will be a #2 AWG cable running from the battery’s negative post to a grounded spot near the front corner of the engine bay on the passenger side. This will be accomplished by grinding away the powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw into a tapped hole for secure grounding.
6. Alternator - The alternator will be directly connected back to the battery using a #4 AWG cable through a mega fuse for protection.
7. Grounding Bus Bar - I will also install a grounding bus bar under the dash. This will be grounded to an additional location by removing powder coating and using a 3/8-16 flange head screw for a secure connection.
8. Under Dash Grounding - All electrical components under the dash, including lights, switches, and other accessories, will connect to a grounding bus bar to ensure a centralized, organized, and easy-to-manage wiring system.

Open Items
I am still looking for mounting locations for the CDI box (MSD 5520). Once that location is ermined I will need to decided on all the cables are run to the engine for monting. I plan on using as much as the Ron Francis wiring harness to connect into the CDI.

[wedel456]

Relay Boxes Setup:
After a bit of head-scratching and some research on how to fit everything in such a compact space, I found a great deal on Amazon for True Mods Relay Boxes. Each kit comes with the box and six relays, plus a built-in fuse box. The boxes are mounted using screws and 1/4-20 rivnuts on the same support as the dash, which allows easy access and a secure fit. I was initially worried about only having support on one side of the box, so I opted for larger screws to ensure stability.

Relay Installation Location.jpg

First Relay Box (Functions):

1. Fan Relay – This will be a ground-based relay, powered by the Ron Francis DK Blue - Cooling Fan wire, that’s ground switched via a SPST toggle switch on the Toggle Switch Panel. It will allow the fan to be controlled manually, but it can also be triggered automatically by the EFI or A/C system.
2. Wiper Relay 1 & 2 – These will control the front wipers, with two relays handling separate functions for the system. The setup is using the P100DHG setup. These relays are powered by the Ron Francis PURP-Wiper wire and is a ground based trigger using DPDT toggle switch in the Toggle Switch Panel.

Second Relay Box (Functions)

1. Fuel Pump Relay – This relay will get power directly from the battery through the built-in fuse box. It will only activate when the SPST Toggle Switch Panel is in the "on" position and the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 is enabled (meaning I’m within range with the key). This provides added security, ensuring that the fuel pump won’t run unless I’m within range, and if I forget to turn it off, the system will handle it for me when I leave range. This relay will directly power the fuel pump and will tie into the Ron Francis Tan-Elect Fuel Pump wire.
2. Fog Light Relay – This is a ground-based relay that requires both a SPST switch in the Toggle Switch Panel and the light switch to be in the "on" position. The relay will be powered via the IDidIt module, which is enabled when the light switch is pulled out. The fog lights will be powered via this relay and will run over new wires that need to be run to power the fog lights and will ground by connecting into the driving light grounds
3. PBS Enablement Relay – A ground-triggered relay connected to the "Ground When Enabled" port on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1. This will trigger when the key is in range, enabling other relays in the car to work. The relay is powered by the battery and feeds power to other relays.
4. E-brake Relay – This relay powers the warning light on the dash when the e-brake is engaged. It’s triggered by the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 and the e-brake. I’ll go into more detail about the e-brake system in a future post, but this relay ensures that the warning light will be on, regardless of whether the car is running or not. The relay receives power from the PBS Enablement Relay, again, will only power the light when the key is within range AND the e-brake is enabled.
5. Clutch and Safety Switch Relay – This will allow the car to start (and turn off)by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged. Yes, both are the same thing but wanted some redundancy just in case one was to fail. Did not want to get stuck. I’m still working on the wiring for this one, as I don’t want the full starter switch wire power to go through this relay (if possible) and do not want to connect this directly to the battery. This is even more difficult because the default setup for the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 requires the brake to be pressed BEFORE the car will crank and BEFORE the car is turned off. Suggestions are welcome!
6. Headlight Buzzer Relay – This relay triggers a buzzer to warn me if the headlights are left on after the ignition (on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1) turns off. It connects to the light switch through the IDidIt module and uses port 87A (Normally Closed) on the relay. Teh relay is powered via the Headlight switch (via the IDidIt module) and is triggered via the Ignition wire on the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1. This will make it so the buzzer only buzzes then the headlight switch is on and the ingnition is off.

Relay Configuration.jpg
*for reference, here is a chart if you are looking at copying all or some of this.

Conclusion:
By using these relays, I’m able to integrate modern functionality into the car while maintaining its vintage appeal. The relay boxes are compact, efficient, and allow for easy management of the car’s electrical system. This setup provides a clean, minimalist dash and ensures that I can control the car’s various systems with modern convenience and security, without the risk of simple mistakes like leaving lights on or running down the battery.

Let me know if you have any suggestions or questions!

[wedel456]

In past posts I discussed the plans on how I was going to upholster the panels I selected to cover with vinyl. Since making those decision, I also decided to move forward with FatMat RattleTrap as discussed in my Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening post.

The first panel that I put this material on was the Front Top Transmission Tunnel panel. I needed to do this so I could start the wiring process:

Electical Panel Location 1.jpg

It came out great and boy does suit deaden all the sound. HOWEVER, after talking with my upholsterer I learned that the lines that I documented in my Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening post were going to be a major issue if I wanted the panel vinyl to lay flat. This would require a deep dive into my wife experience with Bondo. It took a while but I eventually got the panel very flat, or at least flat enough where it will not show through with foam on top. The upholsterer actually complimented me on how well it turned out.

Final Bondo.jpg

Since I did that specific panel I with the RattleTrap and the bondo work, I had to do the same with the Transmission Tunnel Top panel (the one where the shifter sticks out) as I was concerned there would be a thickness difference between the two panels if one got foam and RattleTrap and one did not. This required many more hours of Bondo and sanding work. Overall I would say I put 8 hours into learning how to do this and sanding it flat. If you have not done this before I would recommend getting some plastic putty knifes and do not cheap out on the sand paper.

Once you get the hang of it is much easier. I ended up using the some Bondo on the dash to get it perfectly straight, too.

For now, the dash, the two custom footwell panels, the panel under the drivers side dash, and the Front Transmission Tunnel panel are off to the upholsterer. I kept the:

1. Top Rear Transmission Tunnel - As I have not install the engine and transmission yet. I am confident everything will fit with the mid-shift for the TKX based upon other threads but want to make sure before I cover it.
2. Switch Panel - I am very concerned about the spacing between the dash and the bottom of the panel as it is already tight even without the foam and vinyl. Once I get the dash and Front Transmission Cover back I will test fit the switch panel to ensure everything fits correctly.

As discussed in the Thought Capsule - Panel Finishing post, only the Front Transmission Tunnel and the Transmission Tunnel Top will get foam. Due to Thanksgiving I should have the first batch of things back the week of December 9th.

[wedel456]

When I was reviewing the options for the e-brake, I really never liked the idea of the e-brake handle on the transmission tunnel. I thought it looked out of place and would interfere with the arm of any passenger. All the older cars I have owned have always had under-dash foot pedals (my 1967 Mustang had an under-dash handle, and my 1971 C10 is foot-operated). This just made more sense to me and seemed like a cleaner installation.

Then I ran into @RSnake's video on his Wildwood electronic brake installation, and I was sold. The clean, modern feel of it just clicked, and I knew it would be the right choice for my build.

I pulled the trigger on that purchase and had it match the FF-provided brake red (obviously). The installation was straightforward, and it went on the bracket just like the manual ones. The real issue, however, was the wiring harness:

1. I need to find yet another place to house the brain, which is ENORMOUS for some reason (almost 5.25 X 5.25 inches). My current thought is to place this in the upper right hand corner of the Front Top Transmission Cover using some velcro. The velcro would allow for easy removal if there is a problem with the unit post installation without taking off the dash. Additionally, there is no room for everything needed under there to install this with screws.
   Willwood Brain.jpg
2. The wiring harness is EXTREMELY long since it’s a universal kit, so it will need to be trimmed dramatically. Additionally, the wiring harness is well-protected with a plastic cover and tape, which only made it harder to remove. It took me a while to deconstruct it.
3. The head on the wiring harness that connects to the brain is HUGE. It will never fit through any of the holes that I’ve drilled. This means that once the Front Transmission cover is installed, it won’t be coming off without some work. As I diet the harness, I will look for ways to possibly install an adapter that can be disconnected at the transmission front cover. I'm not 100% sure I can make that happen, but I’ll give it a shot.
   Wilwood Harness.jpg

I spent way too much time (hours) trying to decide where to place the switch to enable the e-brake. The switch looks fairly modern, which I didn’t like, and I didn’t want to put it somewhere that someone could accidentally hit it. It's a bit of a dumb device since, unlike newer cars, it can be engaged at any speed and doesn’t disengage when you put the car in gear and start moving.
Wilwood Switch.jpeg

Based on those two issues, I decided to hide it on the side panel of the driver’s side of the dash. This will allow only me to turn it on or off, and it won’t be seen by anyone else.
Ebrake Switch Location.jpg
*it is the whole to the left

As I mentioned in my Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items, Thought Capsule: Switches, Lighting Control, Buttons, etc., and Thought Capsule: Relays posts, I will be able to know if the e-brake is engaged by a light on the dash that is triggered when I am in range of the Digital Guard Dawg PBS with a key.

[460.465USMC]

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw, sanded them smooth with the belt sander, and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's.

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel using 1/4" flathead screws and lock nuts. However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel with a lock nut.

After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel, and cleaned that up with the belt sander (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

You’ll notice that the spacing on the brackets isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos, I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

You've made quite a bit of progress since the summer. Looking good!

I'm also planning to use the F5 supplied reservoirs (three total as well). Thanks for the write-up on how you got them to fit in that space forward of the left FB. I would like to do the same. Great tips!

[wedel456]

My LED lighting plan essentially copies @EdwardB:

1. Headlights - I will be using the Watson Streetworks Vision Plus Lenses and H4 LED bulbs package.
2. Fog Lights - Have not purchased them yet; however, I cannot find ones that I like more (waiting for a Black Friday deal). I will be using the KC Gravity LED G4.. As documented in the Switch Panel and Thought Capsule: Relays posts, this will be powered via the headlight switch, can only be turned on when the headlights are on, and will be controlled by a SPST switch on the Toggle Switch Panel.
3. Front Marker Lights - Using the FF kit provided lights.
4. Rear Brake and Parking Lights - Using the FF kit provided lights.
5. License Plate Light - I will use the light fixture provided in the FF kit but replace the bulb with one purchased from a MAL-S-WW2 LED license plate bolt from Super Bright LEDs.
6. Reverse Lights - I will be adding two reverse lights to below the brake and parking lights. They will be powered via the reverse switch in the TKX transmission piggy backing off the TAN-Choke feed from the Ron Francis. I am going to the Watson Streetworks 6-LED Interior and Marker Lights, L96 Series with White LED and Clear Lenses.
7. Courtesy Lights - As docuemented in the Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items post, there will be a courtesy light installed the dash corners on both sides of the dash. I am using the Watson Streetworks L86 1″ Auto Interior LED Light with a white LED and clear Lens.
8. Dash Lights:
   
   1. Fan Light - Watson Streetworks Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators - 240 Series in Amber
   2. E-Brake Light - Watson Streetworks Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators - 240 Series in Red

I have to look at the requirements of NC; however, unless it is 100 percent required I do not plan on doing a third brake light. If it is required, I really like the finished look of the FormaCars Center Brake Light and would go that direction. Would require zero customization and has a more OE look.

[wedel456]

I’ve spent countless hours planning the electrical setup for this build. At first, it seemed overwhelming, but now I’m confident it’s achievable. The key challenge will be making everything look as clean and organized as possible. I have a plan to achieve this, but the real test will be in the execution.

After reviewing multiple builds, I decided early on to place the fuse panel in the same location as @EdwardB did in his build. This location provides excellent accessibility while keeping the wiring hidden and tidy. However, to make it work, additional support for the Ron Francis fuse panel bracket is necessary.

To provide this support, I cut a piece of aluminum L-channel to the width of the bracket, plus one extra inch. The additional inch allowed me to fold the end back on itself to create a secure mounting point for attaching it to the back of the frame rail under the dash. The portion of the bracket will be connected to the frame rail using 1/8 SS rivets.

Next, I drilled holes for 1/8" SS rivets along the edge of the Ron Francis bracket to ensure it could be securely connected to the underside of the frame rail (yes, I know 5 are way overkill). Before installing the L-channel onto the Ron Francis bracket using 1/8 SS rivets, I had to cut out a portion of the L-channel to allow the fuse panel to slide into place without interference. The L-channel is ~3/4 inch off the edge of the Ron Francis bracket to allow it to be mounted to the rail. This modification ensures a seamless and snug fit.

Final Bracket.jpg

With the bracket properly supported and reinforced, the fuse panel will have a solid mounting base, ensuring stability and easy access while maintaining a clean, professional look.

RF Bracket Mockup.jpg

The bracket was powder coated with the rest of the panels. More to come when I cover the electrical installation portion of my build.

[JimStone]

Lots of thoughtful planning with the electrical.

That's the part that makes me the most nervous. I just get overwhelmed thinking about it. I'll need to sit down and plan it out like you did, draw some diagrams, and break it down into individual steps.

[wedel456]

As I listed in "The Build" post, my kit came with the Halibrand 18" wheels, and they look great! As I prepare to get the roller phase of the build, I set out to look for tires. Obviously my first stop was the forum and "The Daytona Wheel and Tire Repository". After reviewing my options I decided to move forward with the BFGoodrich Rival series:

1. Front - P275/35/R18
2. Rear - P315/30/R18

After looking around for the best pricing, I decided to order the tires from Discount Tire. The only other option that I had to decide on was to go with the newer Rival S 1.5 or stick with the last model Rival S[/URL]. Discount Tire had both on their site. After talking with them and comparing the two models, it appears that the only real difference between the two models is the side wall construction. The newer 1.5 have a stiffer sidewall. I am not going to track this car (my wife already denied that request) so I decided to save some money at go with the Rival S and pulled the trigger.

I ended up getting a call from the Manager of the local Discount Tire who stated that even though they were available online that they would not be able to source them. However, after some back and forth he upgraded the order to the Rival S 1.5 for the same price (could not believe the deal).

Tires 1.jpg Tires 2.jpg

The back tires are huge. Here is a picture that gives an idea of the width:

Size Reference.jpg

Discount Tires was going to charge me to install stems so I decided to get a TPMS system for essential the same charge. I decided to do this after watching the video from @RSnake when he installed them on his car. I will not mount the display unit but can pull it out when I am interested in checking the tire pressure.

While I have yet to put them on the car, I am confident that they will fit and fill the wheel wells perfectly. They are a tried and true combo, especially with the 1" spacer in the rear, including on @EdwardB's build.

[wedel456]

Lots of thoughtful planning with the electrical.

That's the part that makes me the most nervous. I just get overwhelmed thinking about it. I'll need to sit down and plan it out like you did, draw some diagrams, and break it down into individual steps.

@jimstone, I built my last house and did all the electrical. I think that gave me the confidence (maybe overconfidence, we will see) on this project. If want to bounce ideas, PM me.

[wedel456]

Relay Boxes Setup:[*]Clutch and Safety Switch Relay – This will allow the car to start (and turn off)by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged. Yes, both are the same thing but wanted some redundancy just in case one was to fail. Did not want to get stuck. I’m still working on the wiring for this one, as I don’t want the full starter switch wire power to go through this relay (if possible) and do not want to connect this directly to the battery. This is even more difficult because the default setup for the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 requires the brake to be pressed BEFORE the car will crank and BEFORE the car is turned off. Suggestions are welcome!

Lately, I've been dedicating some time and mental "compute power" to figuring out how to make the Digital Guard Dawg PBS work seamlessly with only the Clutch/Neutral Safety Switch through a relay. During my research, I stumbled across the Clutch Control Switch from Digital Guard Dawg. The description on their site states:

"It allows you to start your vehicle by simply depressing the clutch and pressing the start button, eliminating the need to press the brake pedal."

Intrigued, I thought this could be exactly what I needed. However, their website lacked detailed wiring instructions, which left me with more questions than answers.

To clarify, I decided to contact their tech support, and I discovered some interesting details that might help others looking to install a PBS system:

1. Accessory Functions Identically as Clutch Safety Switch - The clutch control switch accessory operates exactly like the clutch safety switch already in use. I guess this is for cars that do not already have this type of solution installed in the vehicle. Their recommended install for this accessory would be to run a relay (their preferred solution) powered by the battery or to run the battery directly though the unit connected to the Brown (brake (+)) accessory feed on the PBS thus allowing the Brown brake feed to receive power (allowing the car to crank when the start button is pushed) when the clutch is engaged.
2. Brake Pedal Not Required (*with conditions) - Contrary to the directions, you do not need to press the brake pedal to start or stop the PBS system. This is especially important for those, like me, who are wiring the system to work through a relay connected to the clutch safety switch, rather than routing the crank signal directly through the clutch safety switch itself. See below for more information on this.
3. Constant Brake Power Not Allowed:
   
   • You cannot run a constant feed to the brake input on the PBS.
   • Under normal operation, the PBS detects that the car is running when the brake pedal is pressed, and the car is started. If you feed constant power to the brake input, the system will behave unpredictably. Specifically, when you press the PBS button to stop the car, it would attempt to start the car again. This is a critical detail to ensure proper functionality.
   
   As such, I have decided to continue to use the relay functionality allowing the car to start (and turn off) by either having the clutch or transmission safety switch to be engaged but wire the relay in the following way:
   
   • 30 - 87 from PBS Enabled (see Thought Capsule: Relays post)
   • 85 - Ground from Clutch and/or Safety Switch
   • 86 - 87 from PBS Enabled (see Thought Capsule: Relays post)
   • 87 - Brown Brake (+) (from the accessory harness) on PBS

By wiring the relay in this fashion, the relay will only work when a key is within range of the PBS, while allowing the car to be started or stopped without requiring the brake to be pressed when the clutch is engaged OR the TKX is in neutral (via the neutral safety switch). Additionally, this would prevent anyone from accidentally starting the car by pushing the start button for 5 seconds without the clutch engaged or the TKX in neutral.

[wedel456]

I’m excited to share that I’ve picked up the first batch of upholstery for the build! This included:

• The Dash
• The Transmission Tunnel Top Front
• The three custom panels under the dash:
  
  • Drivers side kick panel
  • Passengers side kick panel
  • The panel directly under the driver's side dash)
    

As I discussed in the Panel Finishing and Off to the Upholsterer post, I added foam to the transmission tunnel top front cover to match the transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel). With that in mind, I knew I’d need to double-check the fitment of the custom switch panel. It’s a good thing I held off on getting that piece upholstered because I had to trim a significant amount off—around 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

To make the adjustment, I used my belt sander, carefully removing a little material at a time and checking the fit on the car after each pass. I also had a sample piece of the vinyl on hand, which I used to ensure that once the switch panel was wrapped, it would still fit correctly.

It will be a little tight, but that’s probably a good thing. The snug fit will prevent the panel from creating an indentation in the foam on the transmission tunnel top front, while also providing some extra support for the middle of the dash.

Once the engine and transmission arrive, I’ll be able to confirm that no further adjustments to the transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel) will be necessary (as I currently expect). Once that’s verified, I’ll send both the switch panel and transmission tunnel top rear cover (the arm rest panel) off to the upholsterer to finish the process.

Of course, I couldn’t resist getting the newly upholstered pieces on the car to see how they look—and boy, do they look sweet! Seeing it all come together like this is incredibly rewarding. You have these visions in your head about how things are going to turn out but nothing matches seeing it come to fruition:

Drivers View.jpg Pass View.jpg

With the transmission tunnel top front cover in place (this is the key piece where the wiring harness exits the cockpit to the front and rear of the car), I can officially start the real process of wiring the car.

I already have a solid plan in mind and have started laying out the wiring paths, but now I can dive into the details—dieting the harness and terminating connections where needed. This is where the plan transitions into execution, and I’m excited to see it come together.

[460.465USMC]

Appreciate all the time you're putting into documentation of your build. There are a number of helpful ideas I noted. Keep up the good work!

I had the exact same experience with the Rival S 1.5 tires at Discount Tires this past Spring. (Quite surprised they still haven't removed the earlier version from their online inventory).

[PNWTim]

I just read through your thread this morning. You have a lot of innovative ideas and great documentation. Please keep it up and looking forward to following along.

[wedel456]

When it came to the driveshaft safety loop for the build, I explored several options before settling on one from Summit Racing. Originally, I planned to use the version from Jegs, but it was out of stock when I placed my order, so Summit's option won out.

One challenge I faced during the installation was the length of the mounting ears on the unit—they were quite long. To make it fit properly with my chassis, I needed to trim them down. I positioned the loop approximately 4.75 inches from the final back bar on the lower part of the transmission tunnel. This placement aligns closely with the back of the inside seatbelt tabs on both the driver and passenger sides. Once I had it lined up, I trimmed the ears to match the "X" of the chassis, ensuring a snug and secure fit. Please note: the driveshaft safety loop is *not* perfectly centered. I needed to temp install the driveshaft to ensure there was enough space for it to fit and spin. The driveshaft is *much* closer on the passenger side.

I couldn’t see myself having bolts poking through the bottom of the chassis, so I decided to use heavy-duty 5/16-inch rivnuts instead. These were paired with yellow zinc 5/16-inch bolts, washers, and split ring washers to ensure everything stays tight and secure. This approach not only kept the bottom of the chassis clean but also made for a robust and professional installation.

To finish things off, I added a coat of Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy from Home Depot that matches the Factory Five black chassis powder coating. This gave it a clean and durable finish. Project completed!

Drivesahft Safety Loop.jpg
*just noticed somehow I did not install a washer on the first bolt..... Will need to fix that.

[wedel456]

As part of the preparation for final panel installation, I’ve been focusing on polishing the stainless steel rivets to achieve the clean, polished look I want for the build. The process not only enhances their aesthetic but also aligns with the attention to detail I’m aiming for in every component of this car.

For the rivets, I will be using stainless steel rivets from Albany County Fasteners:

• 1/8 x 1/8 (0.063-0.125): These are used for panel-to-panel connections, ensuring a tight, seamless fit.
• 1/8 x 3/8 (0.313-0.375): These are reserved for panel-to-chassis connections, providing the extra strength needed to secure the panels to the frame.

The Polishing Process
To polish the rivets, I’m using a bench grinder with a polishing pad installed. The polishing process involves two steps using the following products:

1. Meguiar’s M110 Heavy Cut Compound:
   
   • This first step removes any surface imperfections and creates a smooth base for further polishing.
2. White Diamond Metal Polish:
   
   • The second step refines the surface, leaving a mirror-like finish that brings out the shine in the stainless steel.

Each rivet goes through two passes in each compound/polish, ensuring a consistent and high-quality finish. While I initially thought I might only need one of these products, the difference after both phases is significant, making the extra effort well worth it.

Rivet Polish.jpg

The rivet to the left is the as shipped, the middle is after two passes with Meguiars (the picture does not do the rivet at this point justice as to my eye it looked really good at that time before seeing the next step), the one to the right is the finished product after to polish runs with the White Diamond. At this point, all the rivets sparkle.

The Results
The polished rivets not only stand out visually but also complement the black powder-coated panels perfectly. The contrast between the polished stainless steel and the black coating will create a striking and refined look, emphasizing the craftsmanship in the build.

With the rivets polished and ready, the next step will be finalizing the panel installations. These steps mark steady progress toward the exciting milestone of the engine delivery early next year.

Stay tuned for more updates on the build as it all starts to come together!

[wedel456]

After months of preparation and countless hours of work, I’ve officially started installing the first panels on the car! This milestone is a major step forward, and it’s amazing to see the build truly start to take shape. The polished rivets really pop with the black powder coating.

I know I am not following the manual at this point; however, the plan is to install the panels that are only required for the engine installation. This will allow me to have all the access needed to get to brake and fuel lines while providing the hand space to get the transmission into place. Once the engine is in and tested I will move forward with the rest of the paneling.

On the passenger side, I installed the following panels:

1. RIGHT FOOTBOX FRONT
2. FOOTBOX INSIDE UPPER WALL, RIGHT
3. FOOTBOX INSIDE LOWER WALL, RIGHT

On the drivers side, I installed the following panels:

1. LEFT FOOTBOX FRONT
2. LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE LOWER WALL
3. FOOTBOX INSIDE UPPER WALL, LEFT

As I noted in my last post, for visible rivits am using 1/8 X 3/8 rivets for the panel-to-frame mounting and 1/8 X 1/8 rivets for the panel-to-panel. For non-visible rivets, I am using the 1/8 rivets included in the kit. While attaching the panels, I used GE Advanced Silicone 2 caulk in black. I did end up ordering the pneumatic air riveter; however, I ended up doing these by using my Arrow swivel hand rivet tool as it really is not too hard to get them done and you do not have the air line to deal with - it is really only the 3/16 stainless rivets that I cannot do by hand.

Drivers Panels.jpg Passanger Panel.jpg

I did not put any rivets or caulk on the outside edges of the footbox covers nor on the cockpit side of the panels that attach to the frame inside the cockpit. This will allow me to install the engine while still allowing me to install the overlapping panels in the future.

Once I had all the required rivets in place I then filled all the gaps on both the passenger and drivers side panels with caulk. I also spent time caulking the internal frame rails to the inside of each panel. While I will be ensuring that everything is enclosed with sound and heat deadening it is important that all the open areas are filled to keep water, air, and heat out of the cockpit area. It also provides a real finished look.

I am trilled with how everything turnout out. Very happy I went with the black powder coating, too.

[wedel456]

Today’s task was to finalize the wiring of the dash. And it looks awesome!

Full Dash.jpg Drivers Dash.jpg Pass Dash.jpg

As discussed in my earlier "Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items" post, the dash is a single piece with no separate instrument panel. Therefore, it was essential to ensure everything on the dash—gauges, courtesy lights, clock, etc.—can be easily connected and disconnected from beneath.

To achieve this, I ensured that every connection utilized the harnesses provided in the Ron Francis, a Deutsch connector, or via heat shrink spade connectors. Additionally, to make things serviceable, I ensured there was a with a cable loop long enough to remove the gauge or light without having to take the dash apart and/or off.

When planning the dash layout, and before upholstery, I strategically placed plastic cable tie mounts throughout the back of the dash and behind the gauge locations. These mounts were secured with 6-32 flat screws and nylon lock nuts, countersunk into the dash's front face. Afterward, I sanded them smooth using a belt sander and filled any remaining gaps with JB Weld, followed by hand sanding. This process ensured the dash's surface remained seamless, as there is no padding.

Wiring Notes:

1. Clock Wiring - The clock’s red (12+) wire is connected to one of the two Red-Speedo/Clock Memory feeds from the Ron Francis harness using heat shrink butt connectors.
   Clock Wiring.jpg
2. Gauge Feed Line - For the two BRN-Guage Feeds from the Ron Francis harness, I divided the six gauges (the clock is connected differently) into two groups and connected them using two separate five-port lever nut connectors.
3. Gauge Light Feed- I connected the lights for all six gauges and the clock to the gauge light feed from the Ron Francis harness using an eight-port lever nut connector.
4. Horn Wiring - The horn is connected to the Ron Francis horn and horn ground feed via 90-degree spade connectors and sealed with heat shrink.
5. Speedhut Gauge Connections:
   
   • Water Temperature - A 12” section of the Speedhut Temperature Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected via head shrink butt connectors to the DK-Blue-Water Temp feed from the Ron Francis harness with the ground sharing a ground with the gauges.
   • Fuel Gauge - A 12” section of the Speedhut Fuel Level Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected via a heat shrink butt connector to the LT Green-Fuel Sender feed from the Ron Francis harness with the ground sharing a ground with the gauges
   • Oil Pressure - A 12” section of the Speedhut Pressure Wiring Harness was cut. The white signal wire was connected to the GRY-Oil Press feed from the Ron Francis harness via a heat shrink butt connector. The Lt Blue-Oil Temp feed from the Ron Francis harness was used for the Red +5 Volt Reference feed from the Speedhut harness (as outlined in another forum post) connected via a heat shrink butt connector. The ground shares a ground with the gauges.
   • Additional Notes for Speedhut Connections:
     
     • Speedhut sensors and connectors were used on the opposite ends of each connection via a heat shrink butt connector.
     • To ensure accuracy, all Speedhut wiring harness grounds were connected to a common ground, per their instructions.
6. Grounding Configuration:
   
   • Grounds from the Ron Francis harness were distributed across all dash grounding connections as there are numerous ground lines provided in the Dash Harness.
   • Reminder - For courtesy lights, the ground comes from the light switch, not the dash harness.
7. Additional Four-Port Deutsch Connector:
   
   • Courtesy Lights - Spade connectors were used for future serviceability. The two lights (one on each end of the dash) were connected using a heat shrink butt connector to the other Red-Speedo/Clock Memory feed for power. The grounds were connected together via a heat shrink butt connector with a feed line routed to a port on the Deutsch connector which will run to the GRY-Courtesy Light feed from the headlight switch.
   • High Beam Indicator - Since I am using the IDidIt Module to control the headlights, the standard high/low beam harness was not run to the dash. Instead, a line was run from the blue wire on the back of the Speedo to a port on the Deutsch connector which will then connecting to the green wire on the IDidIt module.
   • Fan Light Indicator - A Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicator (amber) from Watson Streetworks was installed to indicate when the fan is running. The ground is shared with the gauge grounds. The power wire is connected to the fan wire running from the fan relay to the fan.
   • E-Brake Indicator - A Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicator (red) from Watson Streetworks was installed to indicate when the Wilwood electronic parking brake (EPB) is engaged. The ground is connected to a Ron Francis ground, and the red (hot) wire is routed to a port on the Deutsch connector. The other end connects to the yellow feed on the Wilwood EPB.
8. Russ Thompson Turn Signal Wiring - Since the turn signal is right below the dash, I decided to utilize the dash harness feeds that typically go to the hazard switch and the turn signal switch. I installed spade connectors on the GRY - Turn Flasher FD, the combined front/rear left turn (Dk Grn - Left FRT Turn and Yel-Left Rear Turn), and the combined front/rear right turn (Lt Blu-Riught FRT Turn and Whut-Right Rear Turn). These will connect to the respective connections on the Russ Thompson allowing for easy serviceability and disconnection to remove the switch and/or dash.

Overall, the wiring behind the dash looks great, IMO; however, the service loop does make it look a little messy:
Instrunment Panel wiring.jpg

[MSumners]

When it came to the driveshaft safety loop for the build, I explored several options before settling on one from Summit Racing. Originally, I planned to use the version from Jegs, but it was out of stock when I placed my order, so Summit's option won out.

One challenge I faced during the installation was the length of the mounting ears on the unit—they were quite long. To make it fit properly with my chassis, I needed to trim them down. I positioned the loop approximately 4.75 inches from the final back bar on the lower part of the transmission tunnel. This placement aligns closely with the back of the inside seatbelt tabs on both the driver and passenger sides. Once I had it lined up, I trimmed the ears to match the "X" of the chassis, ensuring a snug and secure fit. Please note: the driveshaft safety loop is *not* perfectly centered. I needed to temp install the driveshaft to ensure there was enough space for it to fit and spin. The driveshaft is *much* closer on the passenger side.

I couldn’t see myself having bolts poking through the bottom of the chassis, so I decided to use heavy-duty 5/16-inch rivnuts instead. These were paired with yellow zinc 5/16-inch bolts, washers, and split ring washers to ensure everything stays tight and secure. This approach not only kept the bottom of the chassis clean but also made for a robust and professional installation.

To finish things off, I added a coat of Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy from Home Depot that matches the Factory Five black chassis powder coating. This gave it a clean and durable finish. Project completed!

Drivesahft Safety Loop.jpg
*just noticed somehow I did not install a washer on the first bolt..... Will need to fix that.

Maybe you are already planning on adjusting the panels in this area but wanted to show the line where the aluminum sits. The end of your driveshaft loop base will interfere. The line here is the edge of the installed floor.