Gbranham's MkIV 427/IRS/TKX Build Thread...Wiring Test Success

[Mike.Bray]

I used studs and nuts to mount my starter. When I had to remove it recently I sure was glad I installed studs.

[gbranham]

Was thinking the same thing, Mike. Going to tinker with it this evening.

[gbranham]

End of weekend.

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[JMD]

Nice progress...well done! The engine sure looks comfy in that thing...

[gbranham]

I took the day off today to tinker in the shop, and made some good progress:

*Hooked up the mechanical throttle linkage
*Used my Fragola fuel line pressure test kit. I think I still have a very small leak somewhere. I can pressurize to 70PSI, and about 10 minutes later, it's down to about 64PSI. Maybe that's good enough. I sprayed soapy water on all the connections, and I don't have any bubbles anywhere.
*Adjusted the clutch cable and installed the BBK firewall adjuster
*Started installation of the ProFlo4 wire harness. It's really well labeled and seems to be a quality product.

Back at it in the AM. I need to order Forte's little sandwich plate that goes between block and oil filter, to gain a bung for my oil temp sensor. Also need to purchase the hex shaft that connects to the block near the oil filter, so I can thread in my oil pressure sensor.

Have a great weekend, everyone!!!

Greg

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[Mike.Bray]

There's not a bung in the oil pan you can use for the oil temp sensor?

[gbranham]

There's not a bung in the oil pan you can use for the oil temp sensor?

Nope. I have a Milodon pan. All it has is a drain plug. Between the Forte piece, and the bits I ordered for the oil pressure sender (a hex shaft for the block, and a few NPT reducers and plugs), I should be good.

Greg

[gbranham]

I had a few minutes this evening, so I threw on the short shifter. Not sure why I have both the standard stainless shifter and the short shifter in my kit. The standard longer stainless shifter bolt holes won't work with the bolts on the TKX; the bolts are too large. But, they work great on the short shifter. I like the angle, and I think it looks pretty good, too. I'll have to find a different shift knob. I remember from my MkIII days how unbelievably hot the chrome and stainless knobs get in the summer sun.

ShortShifter.jpg

[gbranham]

Spent some quality time in the shop this morning, getting myself familiar with the ProFlo4 system and all it's wiring. Really impressed with this system. Thanks, Mike Bray, for steering me toward it. I got the ECU, relay and fuse installed on the inside of the firewall, away from heat and the elements, and started roughing in some wiring. I need to get some sensors for my gauges installed before I can button up the wiring, and also need to get my accessory drive researched and purchased. Oh, and a water neck. Once all that's done, I'll tidy up all the wiring, likely with the heat-resistant fiberglass loom. I really like the look of it.

Anyway, having fun with all the wiring. It's a lot to take in, having been away from this stage of a build for so long, but it's coming together. According to the ProFlo4 instructions, my 255lph Walbro pump doesn't draw enough current that I need a relay, but I'll likely put one in, anyway.

Have a great weekend, everyone!

Greg

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[Mike.Bray]

Check out this thermostat housing, not cheap but doesn't leak.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csi-9111c

[Blitzboy54]

I had a few minutes this evening, so I threw on the short shifter. Not sure why I have both the standard stainless shifter and the short shifter in my kit. The standard longer stainless shifter bolt holes won't work with the bolts on the TKX; the bolts are too large. But, they work great on the short shifter. I like the angle, and I think it looks pretty good, too. I'll have to find a different shift knob. I remember from my MkIII days how unbelievably hot the chrome and stainless knobs get in the summer sun.

ShortShifter.jpg

I like that shift A LOT. Where did you pick that up?

[gbranham]

I like that shift A LOT. Where did you pick that up?

It came in my Complete Kit, along with the standard shifter. It was in Box28, listed as #16744 "Short Shifter Handle Parts". I don't see it as an option I chose, so I don't know why they sent it to me. I dig it, though.

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[TrackDay17]

I had a few minutes this evening, so I threw on the short shifter. Not sure why I have both the standard stainless shifter and the short shifter in my kit. The standard longer stainless shifter bolt holes won't work with the bolts on the TKX; the bolts are too large. But, they work great on the short shifter. I like the angle, and I think it looks pretty good, too. I'll have to find a different shift knob. I remember from my MkIII days how unbelievably hot the chrome and stainless knobs get in the summer sun.

ShortShifter.jpg

Look at Speed Dawg, I found they have a lot of cool shift knobs, even a couple with a snake logo.

[gbranham]

Look at Speed Dawg, I found they have a lot of cool shift knobs, even a couple with a snake logo.

Oh, jeez...I checked out their website. That's a toy store! I'll have to make a purchase from there for sure.

[gbranham]

Got an hour of time in the shop this morning and worked on installing my senders for my Speedhut gauges. After a trip to Home Depot (which sadly for me is a 35 minute one-way trip), I got the fittings I need to get things moving forward. I decided to forego the oil pressure hex extension commonly found on Ford pushrod engines, and just screwed a 1/2NPT to 1/8NPT fitting into the block. The only reason those old extensions existed were because Ford has a very large, bell-shaped oil pressure sensor which would hit the block. I like my solution. Time will tell if it works. Also found an oil filter sandwich on Amazon that has two 1/8NPT ports in it. Should be here tomorrow, so while I was wiring up the oil pressure sender, I ran the wiring for the oil temp sender. I also got my water temp sender installed in the manifold by installing a 3/8NPT to 1/8NPT adaptor. I opted to put it behind the 1/2NPT port, so I could use the 1/2NPT port to bleed off air when I fill the coolant system. Also allows me to get a water neck (yet again, thanks for the recommendation, Mike Bray) without a sender port in it.

I got all the wiring through the firewall and connected to the appropriate gauges. Next weekend, I'll work on installing my Amazon-provided relays and +12v Constant, +12v Switched and Ground bus bars. The relays will be for the ProFlo4 to trigger the fuel pump and radiator fan. I figure I'll install the bus bars for future expansion.

Having a lot of fun with wiring. It's very satisfying for some reason. For those that haven't reaching this point and are dreading it...don't. It's fun if you go slow...one wire at a time.

That's all for this weekend. I hope everyone has a great week. Wet, windy weather the first half of this week in KC, and then early winter sets in, with temps dropping off pretty sharply, and staying there. Will soon have to fire up the heat in the shop. Leaves have been raked up, final mowing has occurred...time to settle in for the holidays. Great time of the year.

Oh, and GO CHIEFS!!! I'm a bit worried the Bills are going to send us to 9-1. I'm good with that. I like Josh Allen.

Greg

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[jklapp]

I like the routing of the Proflo wires through the end of the dash. I'm in the middle of wiring the Proflo myself. After weeks of studying, I think I have a wiring plan , but we'll see as I get into it deeper.

The proflo has a water temp sensor in the manifold. I was going to use the FFR provided water temp sensor to feed the gauge on the dash. But, I was wondering if you could tap into the Proflo wires to keep it to a single gauge? LMK if you have any thoughts here.

For the fuel pump, I'm going to use the RF wiring harness power, and then ground the inertia switch to Proflo4 ECU wire (ground switch). I'll then terminate the Proflo4 positive wire.

Where are you going to connect the Proflo4 ignition wire? They say it needs a feed that needs power during both crank and run.

Progress looking great!

Joel

[gbranham]

I like the routing of the Proflo wires through the end of the dash. I'm in the middle of wiring the Proflo myself. After weeks of studying, I think I have a wiring plan , but we'll see as I get into it deeper.

The proflo has a water temp sensor in the manifold. I was going to use the FFR provided water temp sensor to feed the gauge on the dash. But, I was wondering if you could tap into the Proflo wires to keep it to a single gauge? LMK if you have any thoughts here.

For the fuel pump, I'm going to use the RF wiring harness power, and then ground the inertia switch to Proflo4 ECU wire (ground switch). I'll then terminate the Proflo4 positive wire.

Where are you going to connect the Proflo4 ignition wire? They say it needs a feed that needs power during both crank and run.

Progress looking great!

Joel

I didn't mind separate water temp senders for the dash gauge and for the ProFlo, so I'm simply using both. Wasn't sure if the ProFlo sender would work with the Speedhut gauge, or vice versa, so to avoid that problem, I'm just using both senders. For the fuel pump, I'm going to use the power and ground from the RF harness that feeds the pump, and tap into it behind the dash with the ProFlo wiring, and a relay, so the RF harness won't trigger the pump in any way. Doing the same for the radiator fan...a relay, and the power feed to the fan from the RF harness, but letting the ProFlo control the fan. I'm letting the ProFlo manage fuel pump and rad fan. Haven't studied the ignition wire yet, but I kind of figure I'll connect it to the ignition switch on the +12v switched or 'Run' terminal.

[Mike.Bray]

Power the ECU with the Orange wire labeled "EFI or Coil" as this wire is hot during cranking. Somewhat important, don't ask me how I know.

[gbranham]

Power the ECU with the Orange wire labeled "EFI or Coil" as this wire is hot during cranking. Somewhat important, don't ask me how I know.

I interpret this to mean the orange "Coil or EFI' wire in the RF dash harness should connect to the red/black ignition wire on the ProFlo harness? The ProFlo also has a power and ground lead directly to the battery.

Greg

[Mike.Bray]

I interpret this to mean the orange "Coil or EFI' wire in the RF dash harness should connect to the red/black ignition wire on the ProFlo harness? The ProFlo also has a power and ground lead directly to the battery.

Greg

I'm not an expert on the ProFlo but that sounds right.

[jklapp]

This sounds correct based on my examination of the wiring diagram. Thanks for the feedback guys. I’m going to use the fan and fuel pump relays in FFR fuse box. I had to break out the magnifying glass to study the wiring diagram…wish it was a true pdf and not a fuzzy image pasted into the pdf!

[gbranham]

This sounds correct based on my examination of the wiring diagram. Thanks for the feedback guys. I’m going to use the fan and fuel pump relays in FFR fuse box. I had to break out the magnifying glass to study the wiring diagram…wish it was a true pdf and not a fuzzy image pasted into the pdf!

I definitely have to wear my cheaters when reading those schematics!

[gbranham]

Awesome day in the shop! I got my oil filter adaptor installed, and put my oil temp sender in it since I don't have a bung in my oil pan. Also got my coil mounted to the back of the driver's side cylinder head. I love the wiring phase of the project...it's very satisfying for some reason. I installed three bus bars on the firewall (GND, +12V Switched, and +12V), and got out my voltmeter and put it on the continuity setting to test which post on the ignition switch gets 12V when the key is on and engine running. It's the ACC post. So, I ran a lead from that post on the ignition switch to the main post on the +12V Switched bus bar, and ran a 2nd lead from the B post on the ignition switch to the +12V bus bar. Then grounded the GND bus bar directly below it on the frame. I soldered and heat-shrunk my leads. Everything seems solid. Also mounted my radiator fan and fuel pump relays that will be triggered by the ProFlo. Will get them wired up tomorrow. Next up after that is finding a home for my MSD CDI box, and then getting it all wired up. I love this stuff!

Great sense of accomplishment today. Back at it early tomorrow!

Greg

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[Rebostar]

I am just wondering when you buy the complete kit do the brake lines come precut to the proper lengths and pre flared with all the appropriate fittings on the lines? I never see anyone talking about cutting the lines to length putting on fittings and double flaring the ends. Another question some will have a loop in the line next to the end. What is the reason for the loop?

On the brake line sizes, it depends on how you route them. So far I have not seen two builds that routed the lines the same. On mine I had to cut and re-flair 3 of the 4 lines. Pretty simple task though. Auto parts stores rent the flairing tools or you can get them from Amazon or HF.
Happy trails

[Rebostar]

Awesome day in the shop! I got my oil filter adaptor installed, and put my oil temp sender in it since I don't have a bung in my oil pan. Also got my coil mounted to the back of the driver's side cylinder head. I love the wiring phase of the project...it's very satisfying for some reason. I installed three bus bars on the firewall (GND, +12V Switched, and +12V), and got out my voltmeter and put it on the continuity setting to test which post on the ignition switch gets 12V when the key is on and engine running. It's the ACC post. So, I ran a lead from that post on the ignition switch to the main post on the +12V Switched bus bar, and ran a 2nd lead from the B post on the ignition switch to the +12V bus bar. Then grounded the GND bus bar directly below it on the frame. I soldered and heat-shrunk my leads. Everything seems solid. Also mounted my radiator fan and fuel pump relays that will be triggered by the ProFlo. Will get them wired up tomorrow. Next up after that is finding a home for my MSD CDI box, and then getting it all wired up. I love this stuff!

Great sense of accomplishment today. Back at it early tomorrow!

Greg

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Looking sweet! I like the temp sensor in your filter adapter. I shoulda done that...oh well next build! Love the custom wiring too. Where did you find the buss bars? I had to build my own.

[gbranham]

Looking sweet! I like the temp sensor in your filter adapter. I shoulda done that...oh well next build! Love the custom wiring too. Where did you find the buss bars? I had to build my own.

Thanks! The bus bars and the oil filter sammich adaptor were from Amazon. I think a pair of the bus bars was $12, and the adaptor for the temp sender was $30. Seems to be a quality piece, too. Got good reviews.

Greg

[edwardb]

I installed three bus bars on the firewall (GND, +12V Switched, and +12V), and got out my voltmeter and put it on the continuity setting to test which post on the ignition switch gets 12V when the key is on and engine running. It's the ACC post. So, I ran a lead from that post on the ignition switch to the main post on the +12V Switched bus bar...

You're right. The ACC post is powered when the ignition is on. But it's also switched off when the key is in the start position. Intended to allow maximum current to the starting circuits by switching off non-essential circuits. Depending on what you wire to that bus bar, may give you unexpected results. The ignition post is powered with the key on and in start. That would likely be the better candidate for your switched bus bar.

Not sure how many circuits and current you plan to run through that switched bus bar. I've done the same thing on my builds. But typically power it through a relay with battery power and only use the ignition voltage switch to trigger the relay. Something to consider.

[gbranham]

Great info, Paul. I'll make some adjustments.

Greg

[gbranham]

I got to sneak out to the shop for a few hours late this afternoon, so I finished up my dash wiring and installed my CDI box. Shout out to Travis (Fman) for the assist on CDI to ProFlo4 wiring. My ProFlo installation instructions are in black and white, and even though the wires are labeled 'red', 'white', etc in the instructions, it just wasn't clicking for me. Travis set me straight, and when I looked at the instructions in color from an Edelbrock link Travis sent me, it made much more sense. Easy peasie. I followed Paul's (edwardb) recommendation to use a relay to power my +12V switched bus bar; got that installed and triggered off of the IG post on the ignition switch. Also shortened up my Speedhut sending unit wires into the dash; they were all about 4 feet too long. All in all a good day in the shop. Next up is the battery cable installation. I guess I should buy a battery soon to test my gauges and other toggles.

Have a happy and safe Thanksgiving, everyone!

Greg

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[gbranham]

I had another productive morning in the shop today. Roughed in my battery cable, and installed a USB/USB-C port in the dash. Also joined up the behind-the-dash wiring to the dash wiring itself...gauges, headlight switch, ignition switch, etc. Also installed a battery cutoff switch on the horseshoe. I'll have to test all of this stuff sooner than later; I guess it's time for a battery.

Anyway, have a great weekend! I hope everyone had a fun and safe Thanksgiving. For those traveling this weekend, I wish you a safe and drama-free journey! I added some additional engine bay pics for reference.

Greg

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[BUDFIVE]

I definitely have to wear my cheaters when reading those schematics!

I took the Ron Francis wiring harness pdf to Office Depot and printed on 11x17. This was a big help, even with readers

[OB6]

Looking good! Where did you get the on/off bezel for the disconnect switch? I have the same one.

[gbranham]

Looking good! Where did you get the on/off bezel for the disconnect switch? I have the same one.

I got the switch on Amazon, and it came with the bezel.

https://a.co/d/dhGFCSe

[JMD]

Where did you get the oil filter adapter? I replaced my clock with an oil temp gauge in the dash but don't yet have a spot for the sending unit. That looks like it would fit the bill nicely and I like how it measures the oil temp actually circulating instead of what's sitting in the pan.

[gbranham]

Here you go!

https://a.co/d/3UWidmh

[JMD]

Perfect...thanks!

[gbranham]

Another productive Saturday morning in the shop today. I finished up my battery cable to the cut-off switch and starter, and replaced the temporary zip ties with insulated clamps on the passenger side 3/4" tube, holding my ProFlo4 and CDI box power and ground cables to the battery. Also mocked up my headlights, turn signals, taillights and license plate wiring. My trusty Amazon peeps are bringing me an Optima Yellow Top battery tomorrow, so once I have it installed, I can check all my wiring. I'm feeling pretty confident that everything is wired correctly, but we'll see! I've attached a diagram of my illumination wiring. Please check my work and let me know if I committed a Buckner anywhere.

It's a beautiful 58 degrees in KC today and tomorrow. Nice end of week treat after the cold week. Have a great weekend everyone, and GO CHIEFS!!!!

Greg

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[Jeff Kleiner]

...My trusty Amazon peeps are bringing me an Optima Yellow Top battery tomorrow...

Greg

Sorry about that. If you didn't buy a charger put it on your Christmas list because you'll need it.

Jeff

[gbranham]

Sorry about that. If you didn't buy a charger put it on your Christmas list because you'll need it.

Jeff

Interesting comment, Jeff. Say some more. I thought the Optima batteries were one of the best you can buy.

[cv2065]

Interesting comment, Jeff. Say some more. I thought the Optima batteries were one of the best you can buy.

Jeff's right. I had an Optima on the last build and it always had to have a trickle on it week over week. Bought a Walmart Everstart Platinum and I put one on maybe once a month, but if I forgot, it was still always ready to roll.