Tim's Type 65 Build

[F500guy]

Nice, happy building!

[PNWTim]

Thought I would post an update since my kit arrived yesterday. I have done some fine tuning to my build sheet and getting closer to what I think is a better overall picture:

2025 Gen 4X Coyote Crate Engine and Controls Pack
Gas’n headers and side pipes (probably ceramic coated white)
QuickTime bell housing
Ford Racing billet steel flywheel
Ford Racing / Centerforce dual friction clutch
Tilton 6000 hydraulic throw-out bearing
Tremec Magnum T-56 6-speed transmission (2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63)
3.73 Torsen 2015+ IRS center section (LKQ to the rescue)
QA1 double adjustable coil overs with 600/350# springs (I have the Koni’s as well)
19” wheels – I have been looking at Forgestar, Forgeline, Schott, CCW and Forgiato
Tires – looking at Michelin Pilot 4s, Firestone Firehawk and Toyo
Heater, defroster, and A/C (FF supplied)
Breeze fan shroud
Hydraulic power steering (Thanks Paul)
Manual brakes with kit supplied Wilwood pedal box – Baer or Wilwood, still up in the air on this one
NiCop fuel and brake lines, Pro-M 3/8-inch fuel pump hangar, Trick Flow filter
Full aluminum panel powder coat and key area insulation, possibly Lizard Skin
Moroso expansion tank
Boig Cool Tubes if I can get them (seems like I can)
Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 Universal wiper kit
Bespoke-esque interior (think Singer with touches of E Type)
Nisonger instruments
Heated seats (seats themselves TBD)
i.e.427 Turn Signal
All LED lighting, courtesy lights, backup light
Integrated phone charging and magnetic holder
Drop trunk mod with a hinged cover
Door Poppers from Autoloc
Arcadian/Gulf/Viking blue with white stripes and associated meatballs, markings, the works.

Really going for the “refined comfort race car” if that’s a thing. We’ll see. When I built my previous car, I changed my mind on major details more than once which I am trying to avoid here as it’s time consuming, costly and a general PITA. I have been thinking about this car for quite some time so I think I am well acquainted with what I am shooting for as well as what is out there combined with my skill set. There is an urge to add a lot of bells and whistles but I am trying to walk the line between too little and too much.

For what it’s worth, I have come to the conclusion there is benefit to the waiting period (although moderately agonizing) simply because you can do a deep dive into the smallest of details and consider all options without feeling pressured to move the pile forward. My wait time is pretty short compared to others but I tried to make good use of it.

I have also spent the last couple of weeks trying to organize my garage and make a little space but that’s still a work in progress. More to come.

[lewma]

Congrats!

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Early Christmas, indeed! I think you're going to have a blast with this project. Eric also delivered my Coupe. Very helpful guy!

P.S. fantastic color on the Camaro! One of my favorites.

[PNWTim]

Wahoo! Early Christmas, indeed! I think you're going to have a blast with this project. Eric also delivered my Coupe. Very helpful guy!

P.S. fantastic color on the Camaro! One of my favorites.

Yeah, it was pretty exciting to say the least. I think I had an adrenaline hangover in the afternoon .

Hugger orange is tough to beat for a classic color!

[Dmac800]

Started inventory, I think I got through the first 5 or 6 boxes. My POL is really short, I think 4 or 5 odds and ends.

Was your radiator on your POL? That is the only item that I still don't have.

[PNWTim]

Was your radiator on your POL? That is the only item that I still don't have.

I am only missing 4 or 5 items not shipped and yes, the radiator was one of them. Considering my car came a month and half after yours tells me they must have zippo of those units.

[Dmac800]

Thanks for the update. I was just trying to figure out if I needed to call about it. I will wait some more. I am not in a hurry. I am still working on the front suspension.

[PNWTim]

So I finished my inventory today which I thought was actually pretty fun. Didn't find anything missing other than my headliner. I didn't go so far as to test electrical items but everything is there with the exception of a fairly large misunderstanding/oversight on my part. I didn't order the 3.55 pumpkin from FFR since I wanted to install a 3.73 Torsen and they don't offer it. Well, unbeknownst to me, if you don't order the diff you don't get the spindles or hubs which in retrospect seems kind of silly since I purchased the IRS kit. So now I need to source those from the aftermarket but need to figure out exactly what I need.

If anyone knows the specifics of the knuckles and hubs I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. Here's a couple pictures of the part numbers for the IRS hub and knuckle. This is from my Roadster build, circa 2020. But, I got the same parts for my current Coupe build, so this should get you there.

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. Here's a couple pictures of the part numbers for the IRS hub and knuckle. This is from my Roadster build, circa 2020. But, I got the same parts for my current Coupe build, so this should get you there.

Awesome Chris, thank you so much!

[edwardb]

So I finished my inventory today which I thought was actually pretty fun. Didn't find anything missing other than my headliner. I didn't go so far as to test electrical items but everything is there with the exception of a fairly large misunderstanding/oversight on my part. I didn't order the 3.55 pumpkin from FFR since I wanted to install a 3.73 Torsen and they don't offer it. Well, unbeknownst to me, if you don't order the diff you don't get the spindles or hubs which in retrospect seems kind of silly since I purchased the IRS kit. So now I need to source those from the aftermarket but need to figure out exactly what I need.

If anyone knows the specifics of the knuckles and hubs I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Too bad about the misunderstanding. In the kit description "Optional 2015 IRS Parts Needed" IRS knuckles/hubs are listed, and the optional part number 16668 on the order form lists Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs. Lots of details to sort through, so probably won't be your first surprise. The information you received is correct. Ford Performance sells the parts as M-5970-M. Since they have the main bearings for the rear axles, I'd recommend getting new. Shop around. There are some discounted prices out there.

[MSumners]

I don’t recall exactly if this is the “knuckle”, thought it is.
Extra , new , passenger side.
Yours for shipping if you need it.

[PNWTim]

I don’t recall exactly if this is the “knuckle”, thought it is.
Extra , new , passenger side.
Yours for shipping if you need it.

I really appreciate the offer. Yes, that is the knuckle but based on some quick research I did after Chris sent me the part numbers I think they only sell them in pairs.

[PNWTim]

Too bad about the misunderstanding. In the kit description "Optional 2015 IRS Parts Needed" IRS knuckles/hubs are listed, and the optional part number 16668 on the order form lists Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs. Lots of details to sort through, so probably won't be your first surprise. The information you received is correct. Ford Performance sells the parts as M-5970-M. Since they have the main bearings for the rear axles, I'd recommend getting new. Shop around. There are some discounted prices out there.

Thanks Paul. Truth be told, I found the ordering process somewhat ambiguous. The descriptions are a little generic and without your previous experience it's kind of hard to tell what you're getting or not. When I did my inventory over the last two days I was surprised I was shipped an accelerator pedal and throttle linkage even though I ordered the Coyote kit. You are absolutely correct in that the description says Center Section, Spindles and Hubs but I think at that point I was lost in the weeds.

It would be nice if the ordering process was a little more interactive in the sense that if you select the IRS it warns you to order the pumpkin and etc. I had somewhat the same issue with the power steering. If you hadn't told me I wouldn't have known the KRC stuff came with it. Live and learn I guess.

[JimStone]

Yeah, this forum is a mandatory secondary instruction manual. I can't image trying to do this without the forum.

[PNWTim]

So, I recently gave up on the idea of the 3.73 Torsen used center section. I have been shopping for 3 months and haven't found one with less than 25,000 miles. I know that isn't much in the big picture but made the command decision to go with a new 3.55 limited slip (I know, I give up some of that lower end zip but start with all new). I needed to order knuckles anyways so put together an order and received it yesterday. Unfortunately, the boneheads that shipped it took the Ford Racing box and laid it on it's side in the over pack box and most if not all of the gear oil and friction modifier leaked out and made a significant mess.

So my question is, after I clean up all the stink, I am thinking I will top off with maybe 1.5 ozs FM and the remainder gear oil, bring it to within 9 mm of the plug and call it good. I am thinking it is going to take at least a pint and half if not two based on the amount that was released. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?

[F500guy]

Hi Tim, I may have the part bottle of gear oil if you get the Ford part. Let me check before you buy, free to a good home!

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim, I may have the part bottle of gear oil if you get the Ford part. Let me check before you buy, free to a good home!

I really appreciate the offer. I am negotiating with the company I purchased from and they may just change the entire unit out so I guess we'll see. Not sure how they can afford the double shipping but who knows? Should have an idea by Monday.

[Just 1 More]

How's the build coming along?

[PNWTim]

How's the build coming along?

Haven't really done anything but get more organized and figure out my plan. My son is coming home for the holiday so probably going to make a little progress this next week. Planning on taking the body off, storing it away and removing all the aluminum. I will probably start painting and assembling the suspension and steering shortly thereafter.

[PNWTim]

Well, not a lot going on with the holidays, family home and what not but what the title says is essentially what I have been doing. I wasn't really planning on diving into the build full time until late January/February as I am trying to collect most of my items, organize my shop and attempt to finish a build on a '74 Triumph motorcycle. I have been researching, purchasing odds and ends and primarily trying to be prepared to jump into the deep end beginning with the new year. I have received my replacement center section that is not covered in gear oil as well as my knuckles so we can take those off the punch list.

I have spent a lot of time reading this fine piece of literature. Between the forum and the manual it pretty much covers it all. I wish they would offer a version with no donor parts section as it's 140 pages but I guess we can't have everything:



I did manage to remove the body for storage and built a cart for the frame so I can move it around or get it out of my way as need:





Also, on another note, looks like I am receiving my radiator tomorrow so that crosses off all but two items on my POL and I had one item (headliner) on my MIK which has already been sent. Pretty solid customer service and support if you ask me. I do have one question for the team though. The two items I mention above are here:



I would've thought these would be created along with the kit but maybe not? I haven't called FF yet to ask but I thought it was odd. That's it for now, carry on!

[JimStone]

They send out the certificate of origin and nameplate in the mail later so you don't accidentally throw it away when unboxing your kit

[PNWTim]

They send out the certificate of origin and nameplate in the mail later so you don't accidentally throw it away when unboxing your kit

That makes a lot of sense. I must have missed that info in the early stages. I will keep an eye out - do you know how long after receiving the car I should expect them?

[JimStone]

I think I got mine two weeks later, I could be misremembering though

[edwardb]

My experience with the Certificate of Origin is that it's sent once the kit and all backorders are complete. Seems it's their way of closing out the order. It's been a couple years (last one was the 35 Truck) so maybe they've changed something. But that's what they did with mine. Either way, it's typically NOT sent at the same time as the kit and will show on your backorder list (POL) until it's sent.

[PNWTim]

My experience with the Certificate of Origin is that it's sent once the kit and all backorders are complete. Seems it's their way of closing out the order. It's been a couple years (last one was the 35 Truck) so maybe they've changed something. But that's what they did with mine. Either way, it's typically NOT sent at the same time as the kit and will show on your backorder list (POL) until it's sent.

And that makes sense as well. I have a FedEx shipment scheduled for delivery tomorrow and at 22 lbs I am assuming it's my Radiator (which is the last item on my POL) or an enormous box of chocolate. With the previous shipment of my one MIK piece that should close it all out so I will keep my eyes peeled.

[Windsor]

One other comment FWIW. I saw in another thread a discussion about metric vs. SAE studs for the IRS. Comments were the metric studs are larger (they are slightly) and to ream out the SN95 front hubs and use metric there. Replacing the previous Ford standard 1/2-20 studs. Obviously, do what you want. But keep in mind these builds are 1000 lbs or more lighter than the Mustang where the IRS center section and knuckles/hubs come from. There have been zero reports of any issues with the SAE studs on the IRS option from FF. Including builds that are dedicated track cars. Many builds seem to make a lot out of swapping the studs in the IRS hubs. I found they knock out pretty easily. I pull them in with a stack of lubricated washers, a sacrificial hardened nut (don't use the lug nuts), and a pneumatic impact wrench. Probably the easiest and best approach is with a hydraulic press. I've threatened to buy one more than once but have resisted. If you don't have one, your local machine shop can do it and the cost is apparently quite low. ...while installing spacers.

I have a question on this.

If you're installing spacers, why go to the effort of pressing out the metric studs? Just use SAE studs (to match the front spindles) in the spacers.

I must be missing something here.

[460.465USMC]

I have spent a lot of time reading this fine piece of literature. Between the forum and the manual it pretty much covers it all. I wish they would offer a version with no donor parts section as it's 140 pages but I guess we can't have everything:

Hey Tim. I'm sure you've already considered this, but the electronic version of the build manual makes it easier to skip past those 140 pages. Not to mention the utility of being able to do a word search. Plus, when they update the manual, you can request the latest version for no charge. I bought mine for $10. Well worth it, IMHO.

[PNWTim]

Hey Tim. I'm sure you've already considered this, but the electronic version of the build manual makes it easier to skip past those 140 pages. Not to mention the utility of being able to do a word search. Plus, when they update the manual, you can request the latest version for no charge. I bought mine for $10. Well worth it, IMHO.

Great call out Chris. I was sent two digital manuals when I first ordered my car - one was revision 4Q and the final one was 4Z. I have used it extensively but I am kind of "paper in the hand" sort (especially in the shop) so I bookmark past that section and go my merry way.

Interestingly enough, they don't call out what the revisions are and I couldn't find them so they must be somewhat subtle? Or I don't have enough familiarity to spot them easily.

[PNWTim]

I have a question on this.

If you're installing spacers, why go to the effort of pressing out the metric studs? Just use SAE studs (to match the front spindles) in the spacers.

I must be missing something here.

I am probably not the best person to answer this but if I had to guess it was simply for uniformity/consistency. And this dialogue is actually referring to another builder of an R Type and I am not sure he was using spacers but it's a good question.

[460.465USMC]

Great call out Chris. I was sent two digital manuals when I first ordered my car - one was revision 4Q and the final one was 4Z. I have used it extensively but I am kind of "paper in the hand" sort (especially in the shop) so I bookmark past that section and go my merry way.

Interestingly enough, they don't call out what the revisions are and I couldn't find them so they must be somewhat subtle? Or I don't have enough familiarity to spot them easily.

Sounds like I need to contact F5 for the latest revision, as mine is 4W. It's marked at the top of the second page.

[PNWTim]

Sounds like I need to contact F5 for the latest revision, as mine is 4W. It's marked at the top of the second page.

[email protected] sent me the latest revision

[PNWTim]

This is going to sound a bit silly but is my coupe # the last three digits as listed on the certificate of origin? Mine I believe is #620. Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

[Namrups]

Your right. Mine is 393.

[PNWTim]

As part of my seat and cruise control investigation I have been keeping my eye out for used seats to test fit. I also don't mind if they are used as I am going to reupholster anyways. Was lucky enough to find a guy parting out a C5 Corvette (these are pretty popular with that crowd). Pretty good condition and about half the price of new. Also came with sliders and lumbar support.



I figure I may practice a little cutting and welding on the supports to see what I can come up with. They need the seatbelt anchor cut off as well.