Rhino's Type 65

[Rhino]

You’re overthinking it. My opinions are strong on this, ditch the SS and use NiCopp. It will bend by hand or with a cheap bender. If you’d like a little more protection for the nicopp you can buy the special stainless coil that wraps around the line and gives a nice finished look.

There shouldn’t be more than one section leading to the rear lines where you’re spanning more than 1ft. Basically the section from the tunnel back to the rear cross bar where it’s a good place to mount the T fitting.

Overthinking has become common. There are many sources of info, and it's easy to get confused. There is a tendency to dive in, but then a better idea comes along. It's not necessary to find the perfect solutions, only good ones. Thanks for the reminder.

I haven't bent brake lines in over forty years. I'll practice first before getting started.

[Rhino]

When installing the fuel level sender, we didn't find anything to keep the float from sliding off the float rod. We might have overlooked something in the small parts collection.

Rather than searching through the parts and the inventory, we got inventive. A 3/32" wheel collar for model airplanes provided a quick solution. Grinding a flat spot on the end of the float rod made a solid place for the set screw to seat itself.

As the build progresses, Judy and I are getting more confident in relying on or own judgement. We are realizing that even a 584 page assembly manual can't cover everything.

float.jpg

[burchfieldb]

I had help from another local Daytona builder. We talked and texted pictures back and forth. It was a great help. I won't get discouraged. The end product is worth some confusion and frustration.

I have bookmarked your index page. Thanks.

Terry

I would agree, not my favorite thing to do and lots of frustrations, but in the end I am really happy with the results. Plus I shouldn't have to ever mess with it again.

[Rhino]

The fuel tank is in. There were only a few issues. Getting the straps tight enough to start the 2.25" inch bolts wasn't worth the effort. We got longer bolts.
Tank to filter line It wouldn't fit regardless of routing or placement of the 90 degree and the straight fitting. We replaced the nylon line with standard rubber fuel lines. We are using a carb not fuel injection so we won't be pushing pressure through the lines. I guess that the nylon line is for higher pressure use. We reused the original fittings.
Filler neck retainer This was a fun surprise. We had no trouble putting the filler neck into the rubber gasket. A little oil helped a lot. The retainer bracket was bolted on and we were ready to install the tank. Nope! The assembly manual shows a picture of installing the filler neck before installing the tank. Later it says to install the filler neck after installing the tank. We paid attention to the photo before we saw the written instructions. We really do read ahead.
Tightening the retainer Here's where the real fun began. Once the tank is in and the filler neck is inserted, the retainer can be maneuvered into place. The problem is that the flange of the tank is up against the frame rail. We had to lower the tank to get the space to insert the the end of the retainer and to insert the hex head bolt. The filler neck allows the tank to be dropped about 3/4". Fun!

[Rhino]

For years I have used a utility knife to cut rubber fuel lines if it was too big to be cut with my side cuts. Judy saw me using the utility knife. She went to her gardening cabinet. She came back with a hand pruner. You know, the anvil style, not the scissor style. Needless to say, I will never cut rubber line with a utility knife again.

[Rhino]

Rear Brake Lines
The brackets which connect the flexible brake lines to the hard lines were put on before running any lines. I was playing with the eight inch and twenty inch lines. I put a "T" fitting between them and was surprised to see that they almost spanned the space between the brackets. I wish that I had noticed this before bending and flaring lines.
Here's what I'm wondering. If the lines, the "T", the brackets and the transition fittings assembled on the bench, could it be used as a jig to locate the position for the brackets??????
brake line crossover 2.jpg
brake line crossover.jpg
Here are some photos of the assembly laid across the brackets I previously installed.

[Rhino]

I got a chuckle out of the brake/fuel lines which F5 provided. What's not to love about the brand name?
rhino label.jpg

[Skuzzy]

I hate to assume, so I am going to say, I hope the rubber line you are using is rated to carry the ethenol. Neoprene will disentegrate.

[460.465USMC]

The fuel tank is in. There were only a few issues. Getting the straps tight enough to start the 2.25" inch bolts wasn't worth the effort. We got longer bolts.

Ditto on the longer bolts. Just picked up some myself. Agreed, not worth the hassle IMHO.

Regarding the filler gasket on the right side of the tank, many builders have reported leak issues with the kit supplied gasket. Many ditch that one and go with this Ford gasket: part number F4ZZ-9072-DA. Cheap insurance and easiest to do now if so inclined. I bought mine from Amazon.

[Rhino]

I hate to assume, so I am going to say, I hope the rubber line you are using is rated to carry the ethenol. Neoprene will disentegrate.

Thanks for the reminder. Yes, the fuel line is okay.

Your post got me thinking what it would take to replace it when the build was done. It looks like it would be nearly impossible. I haven't given much thought what repairs might take at a later date. We have all worked in some hard to access areas and wondered if the factory engineers had to work on cars they designed.

Now, I have questions about how to build the coupe with future repairs and maintenance in mind. Should aluminum interior panels be removable? Forget the silicone caulk? Use some thin foam between panels to avoid rattles? Make access hatches in the aluminum panels? Am I overthinking things again?

[Rhino]

Chris,
Thanks. I read about the gasket months ago, but forgot it. I'll order it and get used to the idea of pulling the tank once more. Like you said, it's easier to do it now.

[edwardb]

Now, I have questions about how to build the coupe with future repairs and maintenance in mind. Should aluminum interior panels be removable? Forget the silicone caulk? Use some thin foam between panels to avoid rattles? Make access hatches in the aluminum panels? Am I overthinking things again?

You'll want to add access panels to the top of the footboxes in the engine compartment. LH side for the pedal box, MC's, etc. RH side for the heat/A-C if you're installing it. At least with my Gen 3 kit (#59) Factory Five didn't show them. But easy to incorporate into the build. In that case, yes to removeable and seal with closed. The rest, no. Why? Many of them couldn't be removed once everything else is in (engine, trans, suspension, wiring, insulation, carpet, etc.) and what would it gain anyway? Yes to overthinking...

[Rhino]

E-brake cable end interferes with wheel rim
I have an interference problem with my 15" rims. Pages 272 and 273 show a Wilwood E-brake adapter and mounting instructions. These photos don't match what I have. E-brake.jpg

[Rhino]

The above post was done hastily. I keep "timing out" before I finish a post. Then I lose the post and have to start over. Please forgive my digital ineptness. Problems were encountered when the cable housing end was put into the body of the caliper. It did not go into the hole squarely. Some filing was needed to get it to seat. We tried to find a different mounting option with no luck.
Wheel spacers are not an option I want to try. Cutting off part of the cable end isn't desirable either. Has anyone else had this problem? If so,what solution did you find?

[Rhino]

It's time to finish routing the throttle cable. I'm using the F5 36" cable and am considering using a front pull. The engine is a Blueprint 302 Ford with a Holley carb. There is no AC or power steering to get in the way. I don't like bringing the cable in from the back because it would require two bends with tighter radii than a single bend coming in from the front. Bending the cable backward from the footbox and then forward to the carb gets it near the exhaust.

This brings me to the matter of a bracket to mount the cable. I want to keep the installation as clean and simple a possible. I would also prefer to mount the bracket to the manifold. The manifold has only on mounting hole at the front. After searching dozens of brackets online, nothing seems to be suitable. Universal brackets don't look like a good solution.

Has anyone used a front routing for the cable and found a good simple mount?
cable.jpg