NuHale 65 Coupe Build Thread - Interior/Dash Layout

[nuhale]

Looking good! Any wheel clearance issues with that setup?

Builder "snowman" established this spec and the wheels fit nice and tight on his build. No interference seen with the chassis/panels I see yet. More to come with body but as stated other builder used this spec with success.

[nuhale]

Thanks for posting, Bryan! I was wondering how this build was going... Wheels look good. Can't wait to hear about a first start. Chances of it being ready for London???

Slim chance Al. I've been surprisingly home most of the month but work travel about to kick in again. I'll be traveling most of Feb/March which definitely slows things down.

Still not 100% on LCS this year. If I do go would be bringing the MK4 after I rebuild the TKO600 trans this spring.

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, Bryan! You'll lap me a couple times at this pace.

Just caught up on your build. I'm a little envious of your mechanical skills. Good stuff! I like the blue paint on your Coyote. Don't see much of that in these builds. Very cool.

Looking forward to your upcoming updates. Don't keep us in suspense too long.

[nuhale]

Experiencing Non-Start Conditions on the Coupe

Well... Didn't go as planned yesterday. I couldn't get the gen2 fired after hours of attempts. I'm 99.999% sure I have the wiring correct as not my first rodeo with this setup. When I had it to a point I gave a try to turn over engine and all worked perfect on Friday. Didn't give it fuel yet. Figured everything ready to go so finished off the punch list and was ready to go. Gave it fuel and a shot to fire and it cranked but no kick. After a couple attempts starter wouldn't go anymore. Guessing that the ECU said STOP!!! Went thru everything again and checked all grounds, connections, relays, fuses etc and all looks good/correct. I snipped off the clutch safety connector on coyote harness and connected the ground circuit with wire nut so that's not it. I can't seem to get it to crank anymore and it appears as if the ECU is unhappy. I am able to jump the solenoid on the starter itself and it cranks. I also jumped the starter at the relay in the PCB which also works. Let the battery charge overnight with the ground off the battery. Just gave it another try and won't even turn over. Only way I was able to get it to crank yesterday is to jump it at the starter which seems to open the computer to accept the call for start from the ign switch. Sten was onsite to lend a hand and we went step by step. I don't have a NOID light but was able to use a LED light and we saw pulse when cranking so injectors are firing. I can smell gas from exaust too. All is working fine with the larger GT350 TB once ign power is given.

The engine is not stock configuration so I'm suspect that this is the main issue. Its a gen2 with a standard ford control pack. Im using a GT350 intake and deleted the CMCV and IMRC systems. Also removed the Evap sensor and used LU47 injectors. I'm guessing that all of this is confusing the ECU. Appreciate the phone support I got from my builder buds yesterday...

I'll be talking with my tuner tomorrow on what is best course or if I'm missing something. As for now you win Coyote... The battle has been won but the war is far from over.

[edwardb]

Confused by this part of your description: "I snipped off the clutch safety connector on coyote harness and connected the ground circuit with wire nut so that's not it." The clutch safety switch is just a normally open/normally closed with the clutch pedal down. The PCM is looking for that switch to be closed before cranking. There is no ground wire involved. If you want to bypass the switch, just jumper the two ends together. Don't know if that could explain your no-start condition (seems to be a Coyote thing this weekend...) or maybe you're describing two different things. Or maybe I'm just not understanding something. But throwing out the observation.

[nuhale]

Thanks for the reply Paul. The safety switch is a ground switch not +12v. snipped off the connector and just tied the wires with a wire nut to complete the circuit. Just highlighting that the safety switch isn't the cause.

[nuhale]

Just at it for a little more and its cranking (had to jump it at the relay in PCB). Injectors are firing as the garage reeks of gas. The coil plugs & injectors are getting +12v but not sure if they are firing. All signs point to a ECU issue and I'm guessing all the mods to engine are the cause. Connected the Blue Driver and its showing a P0100 MAF code. On to other things until I connect with tuner.

[Fbird]

I had similar issues with my 2015 gen 2 in my coupe. It went into limp mode twice due to errors by I made in the wiring caused by excessive cranking. It would not start until I found the problem and then jumped the starter while the key was in the on position. When jumped it started. I let it run and then it was ok again. Sort of like coyote cpr. Early this year I took it to a tuner. As soon as the did their dyno run and tried to upload their tune it went into this non responsive mode again. They were flummoxed by it. No more crank or anything. It turned out my ECU had some gibberish code causing this issue and they needed a patch to correct it. Knock on wood no more limp mode. I bet this problem existed in my initial starts…but at the time most people I had spoken with did not even know that a coyote would do this or how to fix it. I tried resetting with a code reader, disconnecting the ECU power and nothing worked until I bypassed it with a remote starter switch for 1 successful start. I bet once you get someone who can talk with the computer it will work out. It might have something in the ECU. Keep us all posted. Best wishes.

[Al_C]

If you disconnected the battery for charging, you solved part of your problem. The PCM has programming that shuts down the starter if you crank it too much. I learned that the hard way, too. if you disconnect the battery for a while, you reset the mechanism. Don't ask me why - this is what they told me. It worked for me a couple of years ago. If I am not mistaken, you should be able to crank normally when you reconnect tomorrow or whenever.

[nuhale]

Spoke with my tuner this AM and he confirmed that no way this engine was starting with all the changes I've made with deleting the IMRC, CMCV, LU47 injectors, GT350 intake with larger 4" throttle body etc etc. Writing me a temp tune to get it started until I can get it over there to dial in. I'm on hold now as leaving for a little vacation so hoping to give this another go next week.

[jiriza84641]

WOW, Bryan, that build is coming out very nice.

[nuhale]

Happy to report that we just got the engine fired. Been a stressful past few weeks as was pointing all signs to a tune with all my mods. My tuner has ghosted me for some reason and finally gave up and called another in the area. He told me what I suspected all along which was the thing should fire as I have it. May not run great but should fire. Had some time last 2 days and started going system to system trying to find the issue. Realized I wasn't getting spark so by process of elimination and borrowing some parts from my MKIV (same engine) I was able to find the problem. Pulled the crank shaft sensor out and swapped it into the MKIV and it didn't start. Problem solved. Put the roadster one in the coupe and BOOM, fired right up. Brought it up to temp and let the cooling system burp. Oil pressure looks to be ok hovering around 27/28psi at temp and rises as expected with a little RPM. Now I can move forward as this was a big roadblock. Onward!

[nuhale]

[PNWTim]

Great video - I love the filmographer's response.

[JimStone]

Awesome! Best part was the pure excitement from your son

[burchfieldb]

I think you just inspired the next generation! My son was not all that interested until I fired up the engine and he got to rev it for the first time. Now he is hooked.

[nuhale]

Help me spend my money (best use of this forum)!

I've been avoiding the interior/dash design for some time now. I want to go a little more modern on this build so considering a few options including push button start, door poppers, head unit and digital HVAC controller. Spent the AM just looking at switch options..

I see a lot of folks using the digital guard dawg PBS-I but looking for any recommendations on a system that can tie into door poppers. What have some of you used in this application?

I'm undecided on a stereo setup in the coupe. Didn't put one in the roadster and glad I didn't with noise. I have some ear plug headphones that work amazing, didn't break the bank and sound great while not blowing out my eardrums. I'm more interested in a head unit for apple car play features like GPS, txts and rear camera. I may put in a low depth unit for these features and have the option to wire in speakers down the road. In case anyone interested in the earphones. I highly recommend.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074NCJZSZ...n_title_1&th=1

Considering this in place of the supplied temp control/ac control:
https://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digita...44617115&psc=1

I was going back and forth on a digital gauge cluster but decided to stick with the speedhut gauges. As I plan a more sinister look getting rid of the chrome bezels for black and sent the Speedo/Tach back to have the backs changed to white. The other gauges (fuel, op, temp, volt) will stay with black back.

[PNWTim]

I understood the PBS-II setup from DGD can actuate several things, including door poppers.

https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/auto

As far as the temp controller goes I would check with Dakota Digital re: compatibility as I know this unit is engineered specifically for the VA Gen IV units. DD typically adds a module as well which can take up behind the dash real estate.

[Shakey]

Great looking build! You're making some nice progress. I think you made the 100% correct choice on the wheels and wheel color. I am a bit biased though.

V/r

Shakey

[JimStone]

It seems like everyone is using the Digital Guard Dawg. I had it in Summit cart for weeks but just couldn't justify the cost. I'm just wiring a push button switch to the starter and keep the keyed ignition switch.

I'm not sure what the DGD adds. Extra security? I mean, kind of. But I'm not leaving my car downtown Detroit.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm not sure what the DGD adds. Extra security? I mean, kind of. But I'm not leaving my car downtown Detroit.

You know what I have instead of Digital Guard Dog? Insurance.



Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

I'm going with an RFID push button start. Has nothing to do with security but on my first car every time I got in it when I wasn't at home (left the keys in it when it was in the garage) I would forget to pull the keys out of my pocket. Then I would be fully strapped in then realize I had to get out of the car to reach my keys. This way I can just leave a key fob in my pocket and be good to go.

PS, I had the exact same problem on my first start Gen II. Only difference was my sensor was fine, I never installed the pulse ring. Had to tear the back end out and install it. Good to go now. Discovered my problem the right about the same time you did.


**Edit** Just realized you made this exact same comment on my thread. Lol

I should have paid closer attention, you had actually solved my problem but I didn't realize it yet***