Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

[alv69]

what is the door latch carriage bolt modification? did a search and came up empty.

[Straversi]

what is the door latch carriage bolt modification? did a search and came up empty.

[QUOTE=edwardb;240383]

The replica door latches have a reputation for not being the best quality. This was one of the last items on my backorder list, and Jay told me FF was buying up supplies everywhere they could find them. I’m pretty sure they all come from the same place, and quality is not getting any better. These were the poorest I’ve had to date. Usually there are three different problems. There is a swaged joint inside that likes to come apart, the little knob can fall off the handle, and the pin doesn’t fit well into the catch. Mine had all three problems, plus a lot of flash and just generally poor workmanship. Returning them and getting a different set might be an option, but there’s a good chance they wouldn’t be any better. The good news is they’re not too hard to fix.

There is a well-known mod that’s been posted on the forum. Doors, door latches, hinges, FAQ, FFR FAQ. I completed this mod with one slight difference. I used a shim between the pivot and the handle instead of replacing the wavy washer that was originally there. I happened to find just the right size and thickness in one of my washer junk drawers. Makes the handle a little more solid IMO. For the knobs, I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 x 3/8-inch SS button head through the handle and into the knob. Finally, I used stones on a Dremel and die grinder to open up the hole in the catch enough for the pin to seat properly. I don’t know if they don’t allow for the plating or what, but as delivered the pin would barely go in past the initial taper. This in my experience is why guys have trouble getting the doors to latch or the pin gets stuck in the latch.

Here are pictures of the finished products. Note some guys recommend not replacing the small spring visible here and only using the spring internal to the latching pin. I prefer to use both. Note also the latches come assembled dry with no lubrication. I don't understand that. Use some white lithium or similar when re-assembling. Makes a difference.






The photos and descriptions above are copied directly out of The EdwardB build thread. Hope you don't mind, Paul.

Note, he has a link to the other website embedded in the description above. The link goes to a more detailed description of the fix.
Hope that helps,

-Steve

[Straversi]

Got a few more items checked off the list.

I fabricated the cover for the trunk lid wiring access area. I drilled the holes and bonded some 8/32 nut plates from McMaster to the back with the HSRF.



Don't know why I drilled 8 holes. Working tired I guess and not thinking. It's not going anywhere.



Next I drilled out the holes and reshaped a few to mount the lights straight and even. Trying to get all of the holes drilled prior to paint.





License plate bracket mounting holes. I know, exciting stuff.



I was preparing to do the Kleiner license plate bracket mod but I might just trim the license plate.

With the new Black/Yellow CA plates it looks like I can trim the outer edges off and modify the plates and none of the letters will be obstructed.



It's not letter of the law but I think it falls under the "I doubt I'll get pulled over for it, but if I get pulled over for doing 140, Johnny Law might slap on a fix-it ticket." I've had fix-it tixs before. It will be tricky to fabricate a license plate frame but I'll mess with this when the body is off to paint. We'll see. I'm leaving this alone until later.

-Steve