Three Bolts: Mk 4 Roadster Build

[carbon-12]

Last weekend, I received my Mk 4 Roadster kit. It was great to see the chassis sitting on jack stands in my garage, with all the parts boxes piled up next to it. Even though I'm just getting started on my build, I've been getting ready for a couple months, and I've been documenting my efforts at this website.

http://threebolts.com

I'll post to this thread when I make progress updates to my site. You can also follow @threebolts on Twitter to receive updates that way.

[montyals]

The first pic are the brackets to mount the radiator fan to its enclosure. Second pic is the bracket used to secure the fuse box to the chassis (under driver side dashboard area). Third pic (if I recall correctly) are used when securing the rear end to the chassis.

[carbon-12]

The first pic are the brackets to mount the radiator fan to its enclosure. Second pic is the bracket used to secure the fuse box to the chassis (under driver side dashboard area). Third pic (if I recall correctly) are used when securing the rear end to the chassis.

Excellent help. Thanks!

[greenbaygreg]

Hi Jim, I like how you got yourself prepared for your build. My ship date is Mar. 29. I will use Stewart also. I live outside of Chicago. My garage is ready and will build a body buck on stilts. I hope to follow your thread all the way through. Good luck, Greg

[WIS89]

Jim-

Best of luck with your build. I look forward to following along via your site!

Can't wait to see your progress.

Regards,

Steve

[Walt]

I also wish you luck on your build, hope I get my kit soon, its late.

Walt

[jayguy]

Great start, love the blog.

[DaleG]

For your next build, keep all the parts in the numbered boxes they came in until you check and label each item in each box; this process of elimination helps in identifying those phantom parts.

Cheers, Dale

[carbon-12]

For your next build, keep all the parts in the numbered boxes they came in until you check and label each item in each box; this process of elimination helps in identifying those phantom parts.

Cheers, Dale

"For your next build..."

My wife thinks you're funny.

[carbon-12]

Choosing Custom Parts

When I attended the Factory Five Racing Build School this past December, the teachers offered suggestions about parts from third-party vendors which augment or replace kit parts. Since I took the class, I've made some buying decisions, and in this post on threebolts.com, I talk about the custom parts I've chosen.

f-panels-small.jpg

[David Hodgkins]

Choosing Custom Parts

When I attended the Factory Five Racing Build School this past December, the teachers offered suggestions about parts from third-party vendors which augment or replace kit parts. Since I took the class, I've made some buying decisions, and in this post on threebolts.com, I talk about the custom parts I've chosen.

f-panels-small.jpg

Why don't you describe those parts you chose here instead of making me click though to see what they are, and why you chose them? I understand you have a build site, which is cool, but it's considered bad form to drive users to another site from a forum to read about your thoughts, ideas and solutions. The whole idea of the forum is to share ideas with the community. So instead of links in the body of every post, put a link to your build site in your Signature and use your post for something substantive instead of a link describing content on another site. Maybe copy the post here, for example. Or some variation thereof.

It's a really good post by the way, and the fact that it feature vendors that support this site doesn't hurt! I just don't feel like I should have to click through to read it.

[carbon-12]

Why don't you describe those parts you chose here instead of making me click though to see what they are, and why you chose them? I understand you have a build site, which is cool, but it's considered bad form to drive users to another site from a forum to read about your thoughts, ideas and solutions. The whole idea of the forum is to share ideas with the community. So instead of links in the body of every post, put a link to your build site in your Signature and use your post for something substantive instead of a link describing content on another site. Maybe copy the post here, for example. Or some variation thereof.

It's a really good post by the way, and the fact that it feature vendors that support this site doesn't hurt! I just don't feel like I should have to click through to read it.

I have my reasons for doing things the way I do.

1. While I think this forum is a wonderful resource, we all know this isn't the only game in town. I know I'm getting into a touchy area, but the facts are as they are. As it stands today, I link to my posts from more than one forum.

2. The content on my site is mine. If I want to mention a vendor who does not support this forum, I am free to do so.

3. In my opinion, the design of information can't be separated from its content. I have full control of how my posts look on my site, including formatting, pictures, typography, etc. That's important to me.

4. I write my site for my enjoyment, and I hope other people enjoy it, too. However, if you don't think my content is worth a click on a link, then don't click. Your time is your own, and you're free to spend it as you like. That goes for everyone here, too. I assure you that my feelings won't be hurt if you don't read my site.

In summary, I would like to continue posting here, and I have no intention to "drive users to another site" for purposes other than those I've just mentioned, i.e. I don't sell ads on my site, or intend to make a business out of my build or my writing. My Roadster is just a hobby. I hope your community is flexible enough to allow me to do things my way, but if not, please say so, and I'll leave you all as you are with no hard feelings.

[carbon-12]

One last point. I don't allow comments on my site in any form, since I want control over every word and pixel which appears there. So, conversations about my posts can only take place outside of my site. I've already had a couple months of wonderful give-and-take with my friends on Facebook, but those conversations are different, since those people know me personally. For the more technical, kit-focused sharing of ideas, this forum could be a place where such information gathers up.

I still hope that can happen, but I realize this forum is not mine, and I don't make the rules. For now, I intend to continue linking to the posts I write on threebolts.com unless you forbid that, in which case, I'd just stop posting here.

[carbon-12]

By the way, my name is Ken. Readers of my site may have seen the name Jim as they read through posts, but that was the name of the Stewart Transport truck driver who delivered my kit.

No worries. Thanks for reading and commenting.

Ken

[montyals]

I like your site. It's straight forward, easy to read, and informative. The photos are clear and the humor (like identifying the steering wheel) keeps it fun and lighthearted. Keep up the GREAT work! I'll be reading along and following you on your journey.

[Gumball]

Um, yeah, okay... good luck on your build. I think you said all I need to know in posts 13 & 14.

Also, I guess this is my chance to learn how to use the ignore feature, too.

[carbon-12]

Um, yeah, okay... good luck on your build. I think you said all I need to know in posts 13 & 14.

Also, I guess this is my chance to learn how to use the ignore feature, too.

Perhaps you misunderstood what I meant. I have my own reasons for making a personal website, and I'd like to share it with you here, but in my own way. Perhaps you understood this perfectly, and you don't like it. That's fine. I have no hard feelings towards you.

In the bigger picture, if the community or the administrators don't like the way I post here, I'm happy to leave you all as you are. I don't intend to cause trouble, and you all are obviously doing fine without me and my project.

[jayguy]

I'll be interested to see what you think of your MDS Atomic system once you get the car running. I'm still a couple years away from my own build, but am planning on using one of the EFI systems like that. Still not sure which one though, and more input will help me along.

Your garage cleanup has me looking at my own garage and wishing it was that empty. At least right now I can fit 2 motorcycles on my half, along with my tools and parts shelves. And a car still fits on the other side. Maybe I'll have a bigger shop by the time I order my kit.

Good luck with the build, I'll be watching.

[carbon-12]

I'll be interested to see what you think of your MDS Atomic system once you get the car running. I'm still a couple years away from my own build, but am planning on using one of the EFI systems like that. Still not sure which one though, and more input will help me along.

The MSD Atomic EFI is a big question mark for me. From the research I've done, it seems that the returnless setup works much better when the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, primarily since the gas acts as a coolant, and this prevents the pump from overheating.

For me, this is still theory. I hope I can get it to work in practice.

Your garage cleanup has me looking at my own garage and wishing it was that empty. At least right now I can fit 2 motorcycles on my half, along with my tools and parts shelves. And a car still fits on the other side. Maybe I'll have a bigger shop by the time I order my kit.

Good luck with the build, I'll be watching.

I looked at my cluttered garage for years before doing something about it. The kit made me clean it up. While de-cluttering, I had flashbacks to childhood, when I needed to eat my vegetables to earn a dessert.

[FormulaGod]

Ken,
Don't sweat the members here that feel the need to complain about EVERYTHING, even when that something is YOURS. Run your non-profit, no-vendor, informative and fun blog as you wish. Like you said, if you don't want to click the link-don't. I got about 99% of my car, and am still waiting for a few more items. I picked mine up on 12/22. Did you get everything? I'm still missing the tank straps and a few other odds and ends. Like you mentioned earlier in your post, the alternate parts through aftermarket vendors is plentiful, and quite overwhelming. Good luck on the build, I'm looking forward to following it closely.
Regards,
Paul

[carbon-12]

Ken,
Don't sweat the members here that feel the need to complain about EVERYTHING, even when that something is YOURS. Run your non-profit, no-vendor, informative and fun blog as you wish. Like you said, if you don't want to click the link-don't. I got about 99% of my car, and am still waiting for a few more items. I picked mine up on 12/22. Did you get everything? I'm still missing the tank straps and a few other odds and ends. Like you mentioned earlier in your post, the alternate parts through aftermarket vendors is plentiful, and quite overwhelming. Good luck on the build, I'm looking forward to following it closely.
Regards,
Paul

Thanks, Paul. When I saw "2003 Mercury Marauder...", I knew it was you before I even saw your name.

I got most of my parts, but I'm still missing a few things. Like you, it's mostly odds and ends. I was most disappointed that the gauges are still on backorder. I really wanted to see how they look. But, I imagine they'll arrive before I need them.

Ken

[carbon-12]

Right now, I'm in the very early stages of my build, and it's come time to remove the aluminum panels which shipped attached to the chassis. I wrote detailed notes before I began. They are organized according to the table listed on page 26 of my Mk4 Roadster Complete Kit Assembly Manual (Revision 3T, April 2013). For each panel, I give the item number, part number, and description. Then, I note how adjoining panels overlap, indicate over or under relationships for each. If a panel doesn't overlap any others, I note it was “clear”. Also, to correctly orient my directions (top, bottom, left, right), I describe where I was standing and where I was looking.

Only the parts attached to the car when it shipped are included on this list. I'll need to figure out how to overlap the other panels in the kit later on, but I assume that most will lay on top of these panels. We'll see.

I wrote more about the process which led to this list, and how my aluminum "goes to 45" on threebolts.com.

Attached Aluminum Panel List

#10 / 15022: Rear Cockpit Corner, Driver Side
View: standing on the driver side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: over #31
Left-side: under #12
Right-side: clear

#11 / 15022: Rear Cockpit Corner, Passenger Side
View: standing on the passenger side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your right hip next to the passenger door hinge.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: over #32
Left-side: clear
Right-side: under #12

#12 / 10823: Rear Cockpit Vertical Wall Behind Seats
View: standing on the driver side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side-right: over #31
Bottom-side-left: over #31
Left-side: over #32
Right-side: over #11

#14 / 12985: Driver Side Dropped Floor.
View: standing on the driver side of car, stooped over looking into the driver cockpit toward the front of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
Top-side (toward front of car): under #15
Bottom-side: clear.
Left-side: under #17
Right-side: clear.

#15 / 14733: Driver Footbox, Front Wall, Patch Panel
View: standing with your left hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
Top-side-right: over #18
Top-side-left: over #29
Bottom: over #14
Left-side-upper: under #30
Left-side-lower: over #30
Right-side: over #17.

#17 / 10554: Driver Footbox, Front Walls, Outside
View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your with your right hip one step back from the driver door hinge.
Top-side: over #18
Bottom-side: over #14
Left-side: under #15
Right-side: clear

#18 / 10858: Driver Footbox, Top Outside Section
View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your left hand side toward the front of car.
Top-side: under #29
Bottom-side: under #17
Left-side: under #15
Right-side: clear

#19 / 10863: Engine Bay "F" Right
Clear on all sides

#20 / 10864: Engine Bay "F" Right
Clear on all sides

#21 / 15015: Right Footbox, Top/Outside, Passenger
View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
Bottom-side: under #26
Left-side: over #35
Right-side: over #33

#22 / 15223: Trunk Wall (Driver Side)
View: standing directly behind the car, angled at a 45-degree angle toward the driver side
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: #23 passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
Right-side: clear

#22 / 15223: Trunk Wall (Passenger Side)
View: standing directly behind the car, angled at a 45-degree angle toward the passenger side
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: #23 passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
Left-side: clear

#23 / 15222: Rear Trunk Floor
View: standing directly behind the car, facing toward the front.
Top-side: under #25
Bottom-side: clear
Left-side: #22 (driver side) passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
Right-side: #22 (passenger side) passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking

#25 / 10560: Front Trunk Floor
View: standing directly behind the car, facing toward the front.
Top-side: clear, but abuts #12 without going over or under
Bottom-side: over #23
Left-side: over #39, and also over an unnumbered free-floating patch panel.
Right-side: over #38, and also over an unnumbered free-floating patch panel.

#26 / 13138: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Front Wall
View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
Top-side-left: over #21
Top-side-rightx: over #33
Bottom-side: over #27
Left-side: over #35
Right-side: under #36

#27 / 13634: Passenger Footbox, Dropped Floor
View: standing on the passenger side of car, stooped over looking into the passenger cockpit toward the front of the car, with your right hip next to the passenger door hinge.
Top-side: over #26
Bottom-side: clear
Left-side: over #36
Right-side: under #35

#29 / 10859: Driver Footbox, Top, Inside
View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your left hand side toward the front of car.
Top-side: under #30
Bottom-side: over #18
Left-side: under #15
Right-side: abut #28

#30 / 10905: Driver Footbox, Vertical Wall, Inside
View: standing on the passenger side of car, looking toward the driver side, with your left hip next to the passenger door hinge.
Top-side: over #29
Right-side-upper: over #15
Right-side-lower: under #15
Bottom-side: over #31
Right-side: under #34

#31 / 10557: Cockpit Floor, Driver Side, w/ Tunnel Wall
View: standing on the driver side of car, facing toward the front of the car, with your right hip next to the roll bar support.
Top-side (toward front of car): mostly clear, except for corner near transmission tunnel, where it goes under #30.
Bottom-side: under #10 and #22.
Left-side: clear
Right-side: mostly clear, except for edge near the front part of the transmission tunnel, where it goes over #34.

#32 / 10558: Cockpit Floor, Passenger Side, w/ Tunnel Wall
View: standing on the passenger side of car, facing toward the front of the car, with your left hip next to the roll bar support.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: under #11 and #12
Left-side: clear
Right-side: mostly clear, except for edge near the front part of the transmission tunnel, where it goes over #34

#33 / 10853: Passenger Footbox, Top
View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: under #26
Left-side: under #21
Right-side: clear

#34 / 12806: Trans Tunnel, Front Vertical Wall
View: standing on the driver side of car, facing toward the firewall, with your right hip next to the roll bar support.
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: clear
Left-side-inner-bottom-two-thirds in corner near transmission tunnel: under #31.
Left-side-outer: under #31.
Right-side: under #30, and on the very bottom, under #31.

#35 / 10551: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Outside
View: standing next to passenger side of car facing toward driver side, with your left hip one step back from the passenger door hinge.
Top-side: under #21
Bottom-side: under #26
Left-side: clear
Right-side: over #32

#36 / 13139: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Inside
View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
Top-side: under #33
Bottom-side: over #27
Left-side: over #26
Right-side: under #34

#38 / 15403: Outside Trunk Wall, Right
View: standing one step back from the rear passenger-side wheel well, looking toward the driver side
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: under #25, as far as #25 goes
Left-side: clear
Right-side: clear

#39 / 15402: Outside Trunk Wall, Left
View: standing one step back from the rear driver-side wheel well, looking toward the passenger side
Top-side: clear
Bottom-side: under #25, as far as #25 goes
Left-side: clear
Right-side: clear

#45 / No part number: Panel on passenger side, right above passenger door hinge, next to firewall 
Clear on all sides

[2bking]

You have a lot of patience to log the panels that way. Me, I numbered them to identify adjacent panels and just took pictures. But, the best made plans..... the numbers disappeared when I cleaned them so the adjacent panel info was lost. But the pictures still provided the layout.

Nice build site.

[montyals]

Do you have a timeline/timeframe for your build? How long do you anticipate?

[carbon-12]

Do you have a timeline/timeframe for your build? How long do you anticipate?

Honestly, I don't know how long my build will take. I hope it will take less than a year, and that doesn't seem ridiculously ambitious to me now, given that I already have a crate engine and a transmission sitting in my garage, and I plan to send out the body work and paint. We'll see. Stay tuned!

[carbon-12]

You have a lot of patience to log the panels that way. Me, I numbered them to identify adjacent panels and just took pictures. But, the best made plans..... the numbers disappeared when I cleaned them so the adjacent panel info was lost. But the pictures still provided the layout.

Nice build site.

I'm not sure if it's patience I have, or just an abnormal tolerance for tedium. :-)

I hope the notes I took will come in handy, but if not, then I can fall back on my pictures, the assembly manual, and the forum.

[mike w]

Ken, I really like the way you set up your website with all the links. It gives me the choice to click (or not) depending on what interest I have any particular topic that you post on it. You certaily have alot of patience to write up all this detail. I made sure that I book marked your web site so that I can keep up with your build progess.

Mike

[Walt]

They did good on yours, I'm in NM and last I could find out from ffr, Stewart was supposed to pick up my kit last Friday, I have not heard from anybody if they did or not. Thanks for the info. And I will be watching your build.

Walt

[carbon-12]

Ken, I really like the way you set up your website with all the links. It gives me the choice to click (or not) depending on what interest I have any particular topic that you post on it. You certaily have alot of patience to write up all this detail. I made sure that I book marked your web site so that I can keep up with your build progess.

Mike

Thanks for the feedback. I hope to keep it interesting!

[bansheekev]

Believe me, knowing how to use software can save you a ton of money. I did my comp dash and under dash filler layout in AutoCad myself and took it to a laser/waterjet place off Central and Lafayette and had them put it on their CNC laser table. One of those hidden talents I picked up early in my career when writing software in a manufacturing environment. Since the CAD work was done (which is way more expensive for them to do than table time) they laser cut everything for something like $150.

I have also done a fair amount of custom sheet metal work. I did a custom computer enclosure for the Coyote, modified the drivers side footbox wall on the accelerator pedal side to give more room, and a number of other custom brackets. A friend of mine works at a fab shop and would bend them on the press brake for me after I had it all transferred to aluminum, cut out, added bending reliefs, and marked bends.

You are always welcome to come look at a mechanically finished IRS car to visually see things that may spur thoughts (routing issues for electrical, brakes, fuel for instance).

Kevin

[chopthebass]

Believe me, knowing how to use software can save you a ton of money. I did my comp dash and under dash filler layout in AutoCad myself

That interesting! I am an Autocad expert so I could probably do the same if I can find a CNC equipped shop in Calgary.

[bansheekev]

Very simple - two layers:

1) Outline of the dash (I had FFR send me a blank dash when I ordered my kit so this was basically just showing what the perimter already looked like.
2) Cutouts - simple shapes including circles, and key'ed circles (i.e. circle with a flat side). I didn't bother trying to do the opening for the glove box in AutoCad - I did that with a jig saw. Wasn't worth the effort to try and digitize the provided template that is by no means symetrical.

Set your 0,0 to a location that the shop can physically zero on while on the table. I had it in the center of the steering wheel opening and they had to move to to a mechanical edge. They converted layer 2 to the CNC program.

Kevin

That interesting! I am an Autocad expert so I could probably do the same if I can find a CNC equipped shop in Calgary.

[chopthebass]

Very simple - two layers:

1) Outline of the dash (I had FFR send me a blank dash when I ordered my kit so this was basically just showing what the perimter already looked like.
2) Cutouts - simple shapes including circles, and key'ed circles (i.e. circle with a flat side). I didn't bother trying to do the opening for the glove box in AutoCad - I did that with a jig saw. Wasn't worth the effort to try and digitize the provided template that is by no means symetrical.

Set your 0,0 to a location that the shop can physically zero on while on the table. I had it in the center of the steering wheel opening and they had to move to to a mechanical edge. They converted layer 2 to the CNC program.

Kevin

Thats really simple. Got me thinking about designing my own dash now...!

[bansheekev]

If you don't have a blank dash already, they an cut a new one out based on layer 1... I'm sure you figured that out already though

Kevin

Very simple - two layers:

1) Outline of the dash (I had FFR send me a blank dash when I ordered my kit so this was basically just showing what the perimter already looked like.
2) Cutouts - simple shapes including circles, and key'ed circles (i.e. circle with a flat side). I didn't bother trying to do the opening for the glove box in AutoCad - I did that with a jig saw. Wasn't worth the effort to try and digitize the provided template that is by no means symetrical.

Set your 0,0 to a location that the shop can physically zero on while on the table. I had it in the center of the steering wheel opening and they had to move to to a mechanical edge. They converted layer 2 to the CNC program.

Kevin

[carbon-12]

Believe me, knowing how to use software can save you a ton of money. I did my comp dash and under dash filler layout in AutoCad myself and took it to a laser/waterjet place off Central and Lafayette and had them put it on their CNC laser table. One of those hidden talents I picked up early in my career when writing software in a manufacturing environment. Since the CAD work was done (which is way more expensive for them to do than table time) they laser cut everything for something like $150.

I have also done a fair amount of custom sheet metal work. I did a custom computer enclosure for the Coyote, modified the drivers side footbox wall on the accelerator pedal side to give more room, and a number of other custom brackets. A friend of mine works at a fab shop and would bend them on the press brake for me after I had it all transferred to aluminum, cut out, added bending reliefs, and marked bends.

You are always welcome to come look at a mechanically finished IRS car to visually see things that may spur thoughts (routing issues for electrical, brakes, fuel for instance).

Kevin

I am much more comfortable with computers and software than I am with wrenches. In a way, that's what makes this kit a good hobby. Even so, I would like to put my computer skills to some good during this project, and one specific idea is to cut my own competition dash.

As a member of the TechShop in San Jose, CA, I have access to their waterjet cutter. The bed is plenty large enough to cut a dash for a Roadster.

Of course, you need a CAD file to give to the waterjet. I poked around on the net, and I found this link to a collection of files to get me started. Thank you Edward Duncan, wherever you are. I took his competition dash file and made my own. His file didn't include a glovebox. Since I want one, I looked around at some photos, and I drew one in.

I'm happy to share these files. I used Adobe Illustrator to create them, and exported them as DXF, the AutoCAD interchange format. I'll probably change it around some more before I cut it out. I'll post updates if and when I make them.

[carbon-12]

I want the Russ Thompson Turn Signal System on my kit, so I called up Russ and placed my order about ten days ago. I needed to mail him the steering wheel boss from my kit (part #11008), so that, among other things, he could machine in the tabs for the self-canceling system. I also added in a special request. Since I'm planning to use Synergy Series switches from Ron Francis Wiring on my dash (this is the same company which supplies the wiring harness for the Roadster kit), I wanted the turn signal stalk to match. Russ took a look at the web pages for the switches I want, and he said he could turn me a custom piece.

Here's a photo with a close-up of the stalk. I think he did a great job.

turn-signal-detail.jpg

[bansheekev]

Things to think about when doing layout:

1) watch for how much clearance you need at the top for the body and the top hoop. The MKIV bodies are rolled and drop down over the dash.
2) watch for clearances to obstructions behind the dash (such as the vertical support tube for the hoop)
3) give thought to making the dash easily removable for future servicability - the MKIV body is rolled over the dash hoop so screwing the dash to the hoop makes it impossible to remove the dash without removing the body (search the ffcars.com site - there are a number of good designs)

Kevin

I am much more comfortable with computers and software than I am with wrenches. In a way, that's what makes this kit a good hobby. Even so, I would like to put my computer skills to some good during this project, and one specific idea is to cut my own competition dash.

As a member of the TechShop in San Jose, CA, I have access to their waterjet cutter. The bed is plenty large enough to cut a dash for a Roadster.

Of course, you need a CAD file to give to the waterjet. I poked around on the net, and I found this link to a collection of files to get me started. Thank you Edward Duncan, wherever you are. I took his competition dash file and made my own. His file didn't include a glovebox. Since I want one, I looked around at some photos, and I drew one in.

I'm happy to share these files. I used Adobe Illustrator to create them, and exported them as DXF, the AutoCAD interchange format. I'll probably change it around some more before I cut it out. I'll post updates if and when I make them.

[carbon-12]

Things to think about when doing layout:

1) watch for how much clearance you need at the top for the body and the top hoop. The MKIV bodies are rolled and drop down over the dash.
2) watch for clearances to obstructions behind the dash (such as the vertical support tube for the hoop)
3) give thought to making the dash easily removable for future servicability - the MKIV body is rolled over the dash hoop so screwing the dash to the hoop makes it impossible to remove the dash without removing the body (search the ffcars.com site - there are a number of good designs)

Kevin

Excellent advice. Thanks.

When I attended the Factory Five Build School, the teachers suggested we consider attaching the dash with “industrial-strength” velcro. I think it's an interesting idea, but as yet, I haven't looked into it further.

[MPTech]

Might want to add your website link to your sig. (and any other pertinent build info)

[carbon-12]

I intend to powder coat all the aluminum panels in my kit, using the equipment available at the TechShop in San Jose, CA. I'd never powder coated before this project, and when I took my first batch out of the oven, I saw that I hadn't sprayed enough powder onto the passenger-side "F" panel (which is an upgrade I bought from FFMetal). This left a speckly finish with some metal poking through.



I decided to redo this part. This got me thinking about how I spend time, and I talk more about it on threebolts.com.

It took an hour and a half in the sandblaster, but I managed to wipe off my failed effort, and apply a better coat.