FFR had my frame stamped with its serial number, but the paper work did not EXACTLY match. It had one extra 0.
When I bought my Z used, the VIN had an error (a '7' on the car was recorded as a 'T' on the previous owner's registration and title). The original dealer must have made the mistake; I transferred ownership fine with the error, but my insurance company caught the mistake since the VIN wasn't valid. That was fun to fix with the DMV.
Originally Posted by matteo92065
For anyone in San Diego, the place to go for Brake and Light Inspection is WAY down south off the 905. When you can see Mexico from the shop, you are in the right place. Dig this ==> Do ALL of your lights work? Do brakes, and e-brake, work with decent pad life left? Yes?, then you pass. ~$60, 10 minutes. That place rocked!
BAR was also very easy. Free, ~30 minutes, lots of pictures, quick PCV inspection, VIN inspection, and then entering stuff into the computer.
Awesome... Thanks for the info... makes me optimistic!
Originally Posted by matteo92065
No inspection even looked, or asked about, my cool windshield wiper install! BOO.
Great... That means I won't bother!
Originally Posted by matteo92065
I need a roof. But not a full soft top, and defiantly not a hard top. Just something to keep the sun off of me and the seats when I'm not in the car.
Exactly, I want to make a jeep-style bikini top tensioned between the windshield and roll-bar. My wife has a drop-top; the temp/humidity are never so high that we need AC here, but the sun can be brutal at mid-day.
P.S. my 818 was the first to be delivered in S.D. county, but you kicked my butt on the build schedule... congrats on the first registered S.D. 818!
Last edited by wleehendrick; 08-10-2015 at 12:09 PM.
I can only afford to buy $.99 drinks at McD's after building this car. Have to have some place to hold them. Actually worked out to be a good spot to put a drink holder. IMG_0574.JPGIMG_0575.JPG
Looking good! I like the drop light.... been looking for one that stays put where you lay it and can be aimed instead of always wanting to shine directly into your face regardless of where you position it!
All inspections are complete! All went smoothly for the most part.
The ONE BIG HICUP...
FFR had my frame stamped with its serial number, but the paper work did not EXACTLY match. It had one extra 0.
My bosses, 'the hard way', is the same way. The CHP caught it, only after I got my sequence number certificate that was created with a different number. This caused a lot of confusion and frustration. But it is finally done!
For anyone in San Diego, the place to go for Brake and Light Inspection is WAY down south off the 905. When you can see Mexico from the shop, you are in the right place. Dig this ==> Do ALL of your lights work? Do brakes, and e-brake, work with decent pad life left? Yes?, then you pass. ~$60, 10 minutes. That place rocked!
BAR was also very easy. Free, ~30 minutes, lots of pictures, quick PCV inspection, VIN inspection, and then entering stuff into the computer.
No inspection even looked, or asked about, my cool windshield wiper install! BOO.
That's awesome Matt. What a great find on the B&L inspection. So the Bar didn't even send to Sacramento? You hit it right, congrats on knocking that out. There are quite a few of these on the road in CA now. If you ever head up to OC with your 818, let's take them on a PCH cruise. Or, if you are feeling more adventurous AutoX at the El toro Marine base. PM me
That's awesome Matt. What a great find on the B&L inspection. So the Bar didn't even send to Sacramento? You hit it right, congrats on knocking that out. There are quite a few of these on the road in CA now. If you ever head up to OC with your 818, let's take them on a PCH cruise. Or, if you are feeling more adventurous AutoX at the El toro Marine base. PM me
Yes, we should do a SoCal 818 cruise. I've always wanted to do the Angeles Crest Highway or Little Tujunga Canyon Rd https://youtu.be/L9zndCFXdgo?t=1m51s
I just didn't feel safe driving around in with my shoulder belt on. I thought it would be fine with factory belts, but the car is too fast and too small. It took me about 8 hours to install the 5-point harnesses.
I had to remove interior and exterior rear fire walls, seats and old belts. I then welded tabs in for the front points, and reused the two lower lap points. I welded in threaded inserts that penetrate both sides of the square tube near your shoulders. After that there was a lot of installing, removing, and changing the length of the belts to get the lengths just right. IMG_0748.JPG
Now on to testing. I live near some of the best twisty roads in San Diego County, and this is the first time taking the 818 out on them. Whats more impressive than the power to weight ratio, is the handling. I am by no means an expert driver or really know my suspension stuff, but wow this thing is a blast on twisty roads. Not too hard to hang with the sport bikes. IMG_0747.JPGIMG_0743sm.jpg
Then I took the dog out for a quick night time cruise. IMG_0756.JPG
Looking good. I like that steering wheel. Why did you have to remove the outer rear firewall?
Thanks. I removed the outer rear firewall because I had to cut out areas to clear the welded in bosses for the seat belt anchors. And had to move the mounts for the fuel filter that was displaced by the new seat belt tabs. I did reinstall all of the sheetmetal after I was done. I was trying to show how much work it is to add some thing that you would think is a quick easy job.
I think the steering wheel is this one: 015TRGL1TUV
I like this picture, it shows the usually invisible flat black XXR wheels, xxr wheel.jpg
Testing out new rear calipers. I went from WRX two pot, to Willwood 120-9750 (1.58sqin) calipers with matching rotors, then to 120-9749 (2.46sqin) calipers. They seem much more balanced now. I'm a little perplexed on how the stock EBD system is working on my car. Will the rear brakes ever lock up with EBD/ABS system functioning? Will I feel it like I can when the ABS activates? calipers.jpgIMG_0786.JPG
I'm taking the car apart as soon as the weather turns cold. On the to-do list:
Wire up ABS defeat switch
Install Racelogic Traction Control
Realign Door Hinges
Fix body gaps
Install Trunk
tune engine (learn how to do this first, all COBB stuff)
fix front tire rub on full bump
cut out rear upper engine cover vents
Wrap rear humps with carbon vinyl
Finish installing carpet kit
Install accusump, and oil temperature/pressure senders
Install higher spring rate rear springs
Make bimini/targa top before next summer
Finish building Hot Rod STI motor.
Looking good!
Even though your in Ramona, it's not going to get that cold during the day.
Hey! We get down to freezing a couple mornings a year, and El Nino is suppose to hit this year. And THANKS!
Looks great. Those are some big rear brakes.
Thanks for noticing.
Yes, many would say that they are completely unnecessary. But I love the look, weight, and the stopping characteristics (pedal feel, modulation, & balance) have been getting better.
Thanks!
I still have two valves on the front brakes, and they are still about 80% choked. The areas that I'm listing are the piston areas. The Wilwood Dynapro caliper comes in three different piston areas, 1.58, 2.46, and 4.80sqin. My front Brembos are ~4.51sqin. Do I try the 4.80 calipers?
Thanks, I'll look into the sternum straps, it makes sense. He loves the challenge of getting buckled up now.
What spring rate do you suppose best for rear?
My stock rear FFR springs are almost at maximum preload. Others on this forum have been installing everything from 450 to 550. I'm going to go with some where in that range. Since I don't have a rear wing, I'm leaning towards the 450 spring rate.
[QUOTE=matteo92065;213466] Thanks!
I still have two valves on the front brakes, and they are still about 80% choked. The areas that I'm listing are the piston areas. The Wilwood Dynapro caliper comes in three different piston areas, 1.58, 2.46, and 4.80sqin. My front Brembos are ~4.51sqin. Do I try the 4.80 calipers?
[QUOTE]
Matt,
I'm running cast iron stock front calipers (4.460sqin) on all 4 wheels with no prop valve.
I am almost balanced. My rears lock up just before my fronts. I'm going to add a Prop valve to the rears this winter.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-01-2015 at 09:19 PM.
I'm running cast iron stock front calipers (4.460sqin) on all 4 wheels with no prop valve.
I am almost balanced. My rears lock up just before my fronts. I'm going to add a Prop valve to the rears this winter.
Bob
I've been closely watching your build, very nice.
It looks like the front and rear systems should be very close to each other. LOL, I'm taking the long, slow, expensive way to get to your point.
I do NOT want to do any replumbing of brake lines, or change front brakes.
I'm afraid of the tip over point. That is, if I get to a point that the rears lock up first, and the valves are completely open, then I would have to take a step back somewhere.
The areas that I'm listing are the piston areas. The Wilwood Dynapro caliper comes in three different piston areas, 1.58, 2.46, and 4.80sqin.
I got that. The rear kit I am using uses a .81" rotor and a lug mounted 120-9706 caliper with 1.58" piston area. I don't know if a larger ones is available in that config.
what kit did you start with?
edit found them:
120-9706 1.58"
120-9703 3.0"
120-9693 4.8"
Last edited by longislandwrx; 10-02-2015 at 07:01 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Updates...?
I've had the car apart for the last 3 weeks.
I'm 95% done on the dashboard. All switches in and wired, Racelogic controller is built into the console, All the sheet metal is either wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl or anodized black.
I have the ABS on a defeat switch, the fans on switches so I can turn them on when I want, and the ECU can turn them on still. Switches for interior lighting. USB ports, phone holder, COBB mount.
I put in some more support on my front splitter because of that one thread that said they could break at high speeds.
My rear calipers are just kissing the rotor. The Wilwood rear brake kit is a bit clunky. There is a caliper and an adapter that you bolt to your stock backing plate after you modify it. The kit comes with two sets of shims that are used to center the caliper in-and-out and up-and-down. The brake pad covers the disk completely, so you must get the caliper JUST right in order for it not to rub and still have the pad have as much contact as possible. All of the holes are a little sloppy, and not much room between rotor and caliper..
The headlights still suck. Next time I have my fenders off, I will probably install Spyder projector headlights.
I ordered a 1 1/4" hitch receiver tube that I'll be installing (maybe). I've gotten back into mountain biking and the car would look so good with a bike rack. That will also double as my rear tow point. I'm also installing a front tow point. I want to be able to pull it onto a trailer if I have problems (broken axles/transmission type stuff).
Slowly working on body alignments and gaps. I really don't want to paint it. Oh, body... I made some hood pins and plates that I'm really happy with now. The pins are hollow stainless steel with internal threads (think really light), and the plates are fancy machined aluminum then black anodized. I hated the thin chrome pieces that came with the kit.
I'm also in middle of installing fender turn signals from a 3 series BMW, and rear red led side lights from an F-350 DRW. There are currently no rear side red lights or reflectors, and from a (street) safety point of view, they are needed.
Thanks for the update. Which wire did you use on the abs to kill it? I completely agree about safety, I wanted to add some side lights also. Can't wait to see your lights turn out.
This picture is for you wleehendrick, IMG_0801.JPG
Damn... You're second 818 to cruise through Encinitas (Erik's EVWest electric was the first)! I live here and mine's still in the garage.
Whenever anybody asks how my build is going, I just tell them "If you want to finish a car project, don't buy a house!" Oh well, we're almost done with renovations and my time/energy will be back in the garage soon.
Thanks for the update. Which wire did you use on the abs to kill it? I completely agree about safety, I wanted to add some side lights also. Can't wait to see your lights turn out.
I interrupted the LR #18 wire on B301. See FSM Page WI-87, ABS-01.
I was changing my rear springs out this weekend and I got distracted by the rear inner fender clearance.
Has everyone/anyone cycled the rear suspension with all of the sheet metal installed? IMG_0886.JPG IMG_0884.JPG
I did this weekend. It hit badly. I assumed Factory Five would have designed this to fit at full bump, so I never checked, I just installed per the manual. There is no way to get the provided metal into the fender, at full bump, without major cutting. The main fender sheet metal is about 10" wide. It needed to be cut to ~8.375" at the top of the arc, and a 1" notch for the cross brace. By the time you cut down the sheet metal and tuck it up to the height it needs to be, it will be about 2" higher than was designed. The lower mounts needed to be extended after cutting them off. IMG_0892.JPG
After modifications and 3 more hours of work, the rear tires no longer touch anything at full droop and compression. As a side benefit of all the work, the inner fenders can now be removed and installed in seconds with one tool. It makes access to working on stuff so much better. IMG_0890.JPG
I just installed 450 springs. The stock ones needed the collars almost all the way up to get to ride height. On big bumps the car would make an awful noise. The tires were hitting the sheet metal. I think a car should be able to use all of its travel. It's raining now, so I can't drive it. Boo
I just installed 450 springs. The stock ones needed the collars almost all the way up to get to ride height. On big bumps the car would make an awful noise. The tires were hitting the sheet metal. I think a car should be able to use all of its travel. It's raining now, so I can't drive it. Boo
Matteo,
Thanks for the heads up on rubbing fender wells. I about to install them.
To avoid rubbing with my 255s, I'm running 5" RH with no one in the car. It drops down to 4.5" when the 2 of us are in the car.
To put my shock in the middle of it's travel I extended the top rod end 1". This has the additional effect of lowering my bump stop 1".
I'm running 600 in the back. This is working good for autocross. On the street this is pretty jarring with potholes. I intend to drop down to 450-500. I think you mad a good choice.
Thanks again,
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-03-2015 at 10:12 AM.
I just installed 450 springs. The stock ones needed the collars almost all the way up to get to ride height. On big bumps the car would make an awful noise. The tires were hitting the sheet metal. I think a car should be able to use all of its travel. It's raining now, so I can't drive it. Boo
Matteo,
Thanks for the heads up on rubbing fender wells. I about to install them.
To avoid rubbing with my 255s, I'm running 5" RH with no one in the car. I drop down to 4.5" when the 2 of us are in the car.
To put my shock in the middle of it's travel I extended the top rod end 1".
I'm running 600 in the back. This is working good for autocross. On the street this is pretty jarring with potholes. I intend to drop down to 450-500.
Thanks again,
Bob
Matteo,
Thanks for the heads up on rubbing fender wells. I about to install them.
To avoid rubbing with my 255s, I'm running 5" RH with no one in the car. It drops down to 4.5" when the 2 of us are in the car.
To put my shock in the middle of it's travel I extended the top rod end 1". This has the additional effect of lowering my bump stop 1".
I'm running 600 in the back. This is working good for autocross. On the street this is pretty jarring with potholes. I intend to drop down to 450-500. I think you mad a good choice.
Thanks again,
Bob
Thats funny! I didn't have to make the choice. I was following what you and others (I forget some of the names) are finding out and experimenting with. I just thought they were a little soft. And I always thought it was odd how the FFR manual says to put the lighter springs in the rear. But it is because of your comments I selected 450. Thanks!
The new springs and raised inner fenders were just the ticket to a quieter and more enjoyable drive. I can hit regular sized road imperfections and dips without cringing. The car feels only a little tighter/stiffer.
Followed a Cobra type car on the way to work. Is he on this forum? IMG_0899.JPG
How wide are your XXR's in the back? That looks tight. No rub on the fender itself though?
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
How wide are your XXR's in the back? That looks tight. No rub on the fender itself though?
The rear tires are: 235 40 R18. No rubbing with the bump-stop rubber compressed by quite a bit. I want to go a little wider next time, but as you can see, it's really tight up there. When I took that picture of the tire inside the wheel-well, I was surprised to see how well the tire was centered between the frame and fiberglass. The good thing, is that the frame and fiberglass both aggressively taper out as the tire goes down. If and when I go to 255 tires, I'll probably have to extend my bump-stops by ~.75".
I didn't realize your license plate was recessed from the rear view photos. That mesh insert is genius.
Thanks!. The licence plate frame is supposed to be an additional vent too. The entire thing is using the same ffr mesh, and the license plate is .375" off of the mesh, so air can go around it.
I meant how wide are your wheels - not the tires. 18x?
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
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Originally Posted by matteo92065
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