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As a 30 year Line Aircraft Mechanic, there are things here I can accept and things I cannot. Some of the twists being loose I can handle. But some of these have missed the entire premise of safety wire. Some of these just will not work.
The idea of safety wire is that if one bolt even just starts to come loose, it will pull the other bolt tighter, thereby preventing the initial bolt from loosening at all. Sometimes a loose safety can be accepted in very tight spaces if there are other means of locking also used. No, on aircraft, we do not trust lock tite.
I could sit here and type for an hour on how to safety, but it's all available on the net. The loops on paired bolts need to be on opposite sides so if the wire is pulled, it pulls the paired bolt tighter. Many of yours are on the same side of the paired bolt and that just will not work.
Please do some more research for the proper direction, and find a way to practice. I can see you are doing this by hand... I wish I had some of my old wire pliers that I could give you. I wear out a pair about every 2 years. Maybe someone on here has a pair that they could loan to you.
Practice, practice and research on the net until you understand it. It doesn't have to be perfect but it needs to be able to do the job.
Good Luck!
1003cct_16_o+how_to_safety_wire+bolt_heads.jpg
I grabbed this pic off the net really quick for you. It should give you a good idea of how the loop around the bolt heads should be. The left bolt has the loop around the left side of the head and the right bolt has it around the right. If either bolt tries to loosen, it pulls the other tighter.
Practice!
I wish I lived near ya, I'd check out your build and do the safety for ya.
Short answer is no
Mark III complete kit ordered 12/03/2007, received #6351 1/22/2008 Homemade mods: driver footbox extension with deadpedal and dimmer switch, widened passenger footbox, brake reservoir mounting bracket, under trunk storage box, custom dash and dash extension, heater forward box, custom glove box, under dash switch panel, Explorer motor carb conversion, first start 7/10/2010, off to paint (Performance Automotive) 11/20/2010, finally home 5/7/2011, Graduated 11/22/2011
I wouldn't let that go....need to redo and get them more positive, tighter and clean up the pig-tails
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
Rick
#8442 MK4 Complete kit, 331 Stroker, T5, 3.73 Posi 3-Link, 15", Goodyear Billboards
Order 8/22/14 Del 11/7/14 First Start 3/9/15 Go Cart 3/14/15 Paint 2/25/16
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-8442-Build
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
I'm about to do the same project. Is this correct?
1003cct_16_o+how_to_safety_wire+bolt_heads.jpg
Wow I really learned something here. There is look good information and then there is keep you alive information. I am building an 818 but I will use this information in my build.
Guys,
Thanks for the comments.
I'm using a HF 9 inch safety wire twister and Pit Posse .032 safety wire, # PP2766. It is not easy to thread this wire through and around the bolt holes especially in the confined space between the hat and the rotor. Do you have any tips for doing this or is there a more malleable brand of safety wire that can be used?
Wilwood recommended using Locktite. Would it be better to not use it, torqued the bolts and then align the hole between the bolts in a position to make the wire easier to thread?
Thanks
Damien
No. If it's more malleable, then it cant do its job and would just break. .032 safety wire is the real standard, used all over the world.
Damien, it's not good to deviate from the manufacturers instructions on a safety system like this. I would not omit the lock tite, nor would I over-torque in order to get the bolt safety holes to line up. This places undue stresses on the bolts and the threads that could show up at a really bad time.{snip}Would it be better to not use it, torqued the bolts and then align the hole between the bolts in a position to make the wire easier to thread?
My suggestion is to use the SW pliers you have. Also use needle nose pliers and practice. Here's an article that may help you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...y-wire.215935/
I cant help you with the close quarters. Practice and good tools... yes, it is an art. You'll be proud of yourself when you get it.
If you really find yourself having a hard time getting the wire right, here's a suggestion: Take the discs to a local general aviation airport. Ask to speak to an Aircraft Mechanic. Offer him (or her) something like $20 to safety up the bolts on the discs for ya. Most likely won't take but 1/2 of an hour and then it's done.
Boydster,
Thanks for all your information. I've been at this for more than a week. On two occasions, I had to heat the hat/rotor combo to 500 deg F to remove the locktite bolts. I'm pretty much through with doing it myself. I'm going to PM Erick Treves' and ask for a local auto shop recommendation. I don't think this will be the last time I will need help and if needed the Huntsville International Airport is only 2 miles from my house.
I know it takes up your time to post this information and I really appreciate your advise. Likewise, there are many others who will read this thread and benefit from it.
FYI - the locktite came loose at 400 deg F. At 500 deg F the paint will scratch off the hat. ( I hope I didn't screw up my rotors. Guess I'll find out when I take to a shop.)
Much thanks,
Damien
I wish I could help ya more.
I just took a look at Huntsville International. They have a Signature Flight Support. You should be able to walk in the front door and ask for a mechanic. You wont be able to reach any of the airline mechanics, we are usually buried deep in secure areas.
Good Luck.
I am no expert but all I did was follow the directions from Willwood. I did have a set of twist pliers. This actually was fairly easy after I got the hang of it. You do not have to align the holes there are multiples. Get a set of pliers and do it. You will find completion rewarding.
MK IV complete kit delivered August 21st, 2014. Ford Racing 427w with X heads. IRS. Upgraded Wilwoods, 6 piston front and 4 rear. Tremec t600 and Ram Dual clutch. Holley Terminator EFI.
Guys,
Took Boydster's advice.
The safety wire was Mil Spec .032". The Pit Posse .032" safety wire felt more like .041 Mil Spec. Maybe someone can explain the difference between the .032" Mil Spec safety wire and the .032" Pit Posse safety wire. The tech charged $20.
Thanks for all the advice it was well appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Damien
Beautifully done. Got that outta the way and on with The Build.
Ya know, if the Pit Posse stuff was not Mil-Spec, it may be made harder or even have looser limits, so could be thicker.
I'm glad that AMT took care of ya.
To do good lockwire you need these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-...ers-45341.html
Your twist on the pigtail end should be in the opposite direction of the main wire.