I have misplaced my copy of the instructions that came with my Forte hydraulic clutch kit. Could someone please PM me a copy of them? Thank you.
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I have misplaced my copy of the instructions that came with my Forte hydraulic clutch kit. Could someone please PM me a copy of them? Thank you.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021
Roadster Frame Dolly Plan
I guess I misplaced my instructions too on the two Forte hydraulic setups I've purchased.
OK, I've never seen any... It's pretty straightforward how they go together. This is the picture I also posted in my build thread. Shows where everything goes. I did add a second bolt on the clutch arm pivot. Only one is provided and that's probably OK. Just my personal choice. The most difficult part is the pushrod needs to be cut to the proper length. You want a slight amount of play in the pushrod when it's all the way out.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Any memory as to how much you cut off? When you say "all the way out", do you mean the push rod from the MC is fully extended, or when the clutch fork is fully disengaged, i.e. It is furthest rearward and the shaft of the MC is as short as it can get? Thanks.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021
Roadster Frame Dolly Plan
Sorry. What I wrote was confusing. By "all the way out" I was referring to the clutch and clutch pedal. Meaning the slave cylinder is completely retracted, the pedal is out against the stop, and the clutch is fully engaged. To find the right pushrod length for this condition is kind of trial by error. I thread the rod end nearly all the way on, put the fitting on the end of the pushrod that fits down into the cup in the slave cylinder, and place the pushrod in position. It will be immediately obvious it needs to be much shorter. Trim a large amount first, then smaller increments trying it each time until it fits properly.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
This will sound stupid, but it is the slave cylinder pushrod that gets trimmed - right? The only reason I am asking is because I was just trimming the master cylinder pushrods for my brakes because of a fitment issue. (Thanks for the advice edwardb on that!)
Correct; you have to trim the slave cylinder pushrod.
Cheers,
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I just installed it tonight. It would have been WAY easier to do it before the engine/transmission were in!
Heavy and light are subjective terms. I would describe the effort for the hydraulic clutch as smooth and perhaps somewhat lighter than a comparable cable system. It depends on what clutch you're using, but the clutch pedal in these setups is not likely to be considered "light." What clutch are you using and what are you comparing it to? Something might be wrong. But it also might be pretty typical.
Last edited by edwardb; 12-11-2016 at 11:23 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I am comparing it to my daily driver which is a Scion FR-S. I actually modified that car by taking the helper spring out of the clutch pedal so if felt more direct, if a bit heavier. To me it just feels like a normal clutch.
The clutch in my MK4 is the stock clutch for a 93 Mustang GT with a T-5 transmission.
I am goIng to try and get someone to help me bleed it properly tomorrow as I am starting to think maybe that is the culprit.
I made one cut to the slave push rod. Perfect the first cut. I have about 3/16 play with clutch fork between slave fully retracted and slave slightly extended and just starting to engage the TOB. That play is important since as the clutch wears the fork will eventually start to move back and the play will decrease, maybe even to the degree that the clutch will not fully engage.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Quick question: what diameter hose did you all use when bleeding the clutch? My go-to bleeder hose is too big and I thought I might order some online...
I believe the hose I used was 3mm; it was part of a Harbor Freight bleeder kit. The tubing should be available at any pet store in the aquarium section.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
So I fully bled the clutch, but the pedal is still hard. After I take my foot off the clutch, I can manually depress the slave cylinder a little more. Then the next time I depress the clutch pedal it feels a bit better. Does this just mean I need to trim a little more off of the pushrod?