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Thread: Fuel tank side covers

  1. #1
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    Fuel tank side covers

    Good morning, I did not receive any responses on my build page so I thought I would post the question here. Has anyone had trouble with the installation of the fuel tank side covers? The manual (version 3G, page 397) tells you to install them prior to installing the door hinge brackets. I found that the door hinge bracket interferes with the panel when installed (as the pictures show). Gen 2 build. Thanks Ray
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    I did test fit them a while ago, let me look at some of my pics, more later.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    I put mine on after the doors and body were on, then took them off so I could pull the body.
    I drilled and tapped the frame to make them easy to remove.
    Mine are 19.375” long.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidray View Post
    Good morning, I did not receive any responses on my build page so I thought I would post the question here. Has anyone had trouble with the installation of the fuel tank side covers? The manual (version 3G, page 397) tells you to install them prior to installing the door hinge brackets. I found that the door hinge bracket interferes with the panel when installed (as the pictures show). Gen 2 build. Thanks Ray
    Sorry, I don't understand Ray.. I'm doing doors now too, and page 397 is a good 30+ pages after the door hinge brackets are installed.. what am I missing?
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    I'm at the same step...I believe the attached pics is how it goes. I think it's meant to sit so when the door hinge bracket is at it's highest adjustment point this side cover would touch the bracket. I have a 3H rev manual but the same pic as mentioned above....if you look at the pic from the manual they show it sitting higher than the hinge bracket which is why I think it sits like the pics I show. The only thing I'm not sure on is how high it sticks up above past the trunk hinge bar

    I could be wrong. i have not put the body on yet but I can't envision how you would drill & rivet or tap these with the body on.

    20201206_044544.jpg

    20201206_044558.jpg
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    Morning, let me explain further. First the picture on page 397 shows them attached to the frame without the hinge brackets installed. They would fit this way. Now if you look at the picture below that 33fromSD posted you will see that the rear of the panel extends way beyond the trunk hinge bar. This would interfere with the body installation as the body fits flush with the trunk side panels. (Jim I also drilled and tapped them so they were removable for the body install and this was the only panel I neglected to test fit prior to disassembly for paint). After I painted the car I attempted to install them but there was no way I could get them to fit. I might be missing something but I think the only way they would fit is if they were shorter. Tip: if you tack the nut on the door opening stop allen bolt to the hinge bracket the doors are really easy to remove, its hard to get the nut started on the stop bolt after the body is installed and its hard to remove the doors with the stop bolt installed. Thoughts? Thanks Ray
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    Last edited by rapidray; 12-06-2020 at 08:00 AM.

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    I always mock these up with the body on. Then remove them till finally body install is done after paint.
    16+ FFR kits and counting!

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidray View Post
    Morning, let me explain further. First the picture on page 397 shows them attached to the frame without the hinge brackets installed. They would fit this way. Now if you look at the picture below that 33fromSD posted you will see that the rear of the panel extends way beyond the trunk hinge bar. This would interfere with the body installation as the body fits flush with the trunk side panels. (Jim I also drilled and tapped them so they were removable for the body install and this was the only panel I neglected to test fit prior to disassembly for paint). After I painted the car I attempted to install them but there was no way I could get them to fit. I might be missing something but I think the only way they would fit is if they were shorter. Tip: if you tack the nut on the door opening stop allen bolt to the hinge bracket the doors are really easy to remove, its hard to get the nut started on the stop bolt after the body is installed and its hard to remove the doors with the stop bolt installed. Thoughts? Thanks Ray
    Thanks Ray...... I'm pondering leaving mine in the general vicinity that I have them and either trimming the top to match the height of the trunk hinge bar or bending them down the same angle as the trunk bar. I'm somewhat certain my first pic is correct on the lower positioning. The only other way to do it is to cut a notch in the lower portion by the hinge bracket and bring the top down to the correct level of the hinge bar.

    Let m know if my thinking is way off.

    20201206_044544.jpg

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    33fromSD, thank you for posting the picture. Before you start cutting the panels I would wait and see if maybe I am missing something and someone else on the forum will show us how they got them to fit. I believe that you have them installed correctly, its the rear height of the panel that seems to be way off. The picture of the installation on page 397 shows them even with the trunk hinge mounting bar as far as I can tell. Ray

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Agree...Thanks Ray

    Jim

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    I’ll have my roof and water fall pulled out in the next 4-5 days, will see what it looks like with the pieces in place and snap a pic.
    From what I remember I didn’t have any problem sliding them in place.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if they are supposed to be, but your Gen 2 door hinge brackets are mounted a lot higher than the Gen 1, and appear to be made upside down from the Gen 1. If the door hinge brackets are correct, then the panel design may not have been changed for the Gen 2. Maybe?
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I'm not sure if they are supposed to be, but your Gen 2 door hinge brackets are mounted a lot higher than the Gen 1, and appear to be made upside down from the Gen 1. If the door hinge brackets are correct, then the panel design may not have been changed for the Gen 2. Maybe?
    That's a good possibility HVACMAN....... The good news is after installing the body on the chassis yesterday the first thing I checked is how close were the hinge holes I made in the body (based off the template) and they are dead on with the hinge bracket mounted in the chassis so that at least is good.

    The bad news is either these are the wrong fuel tank side panels or if they are right they need to be trimmed somehow since they are not going to fit.

    I've pinged David at FFR and sent him some pics, hopefully he can clear this up.
    Last edited by 33fromSD; 12-07-2020 at 07:21 AM.

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    So I'm not sure there is an easy answer to this yet. I pinged David again today to just make sure he got my note yesterday with the pics I sent. He said he got them but he was waiting on a response from engineering. Normally David has an immediate answer for everything I've pinged him on.
    Last edited by 33fromSD; 12-08-2020 at 08:17 PM.

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    33fromSD, I am glad you got with Dave. I also e-mailed him several times but he couldn't understand my problem. I think its because my pictures are not as good as yours. I messed with the panels again this week as did 3 of the other mechanics at the shop and nobody could get them to fit. I think they are just too long. Ray

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidray View Post
    33fromSD, I am glad you got with Dave. I also e-mailed him several times but he couldn't understand my problem. I think its because my pictures are not as good as yours. I messed with the panels again this week as did 3 of the other mechanics at the shop and nobody could get them to fit. I think they are just too long. Ray
    My panels did not fit either and I needed to trim them back to fit with a small gap, I then added a foam rubber seal between the edge of the plate and the body to ensure no gapping and no "point" pressure from the plate to the body that could wear over time.
    20200509_135707[1].jpg I also used it to mount my crossover for the stereo as its protected there and keeps less stuff in the door.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    My panels did not fit either and I needed to trim them back to fit with a small gap, I then added a foam rubber seal between the edge of the plate and the body to ensure no gapping and no "point" pressure from the plate to the body that could wear over time.
    20200509_135707[1].jpg I also used it to mount my crossover for the stereo as its protected there and keeps less stuff in the door.
    Yup... just got a response from Jesper (Director of Eng) at FFR...here was his response .....

    "Those are the correct mounts and in the right place. They are oversized a bit. Put the body on first then weatherstrip around the panel and put them in. Trim if necessary. "

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    Trim as necessary you got to appreciate that! Thanks everyone! Ray

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    I've been staring at these panels for a while now.. I can make them fit, but for the life of me, I don't understand what the POINT of them is?

    The waterfall seals that area all up, and being way up there it doesn't make any sense. What am I missing??
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  23. #20
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    I've been staring at these panels for a while now.. I can make them fit, but for the life of me, I don't understand what the POINT of them is?

    The waterfall seals that area all up, and being way up there it doesn't make any sense. What am I missing??
    Too funny...when I installed mine earlier this week I did the exact same thing. Stared and stared at them and just asked "why".

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    Maybe to cut down on some of the road noise???
    I’m going to insulate the top and bottom of those panels.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  26. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Maybe to cut down on some of the road noise???
    I’m going to insulate the top and bottom of those panels.
    hahahaha! that sounds like a lost cause to me

    I'm going to leave mine off - what a rebel!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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