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Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Well good to know...does open up some possibilities... =)
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Haha- I would be happy with a Porsche Flat 6.... The FFR Roadsters (and Coupe) could not keep up with me a Laguna with my 2.5L :P . I'll be fair and say Laguna IS a Porsche track. We also had to run mufflers! That cost me 3 seconds over my unrestricted time.
Now back to the Fuel Cell-
Once I cut out the bar, and see how the seat fits/mounts I'll know more about the racing Fuel Cell. Right now with the bar in the way, my seat sits to "upright" against the rear aluminum bulkhead. I think once I cut out the bar, I will be able to raise the front of the seat and move it forward for a more comfortable seating position (Recliner). Plus, this will lower my head even more under the roll bar (which is always good). If I cant get the seating good with the pedals, steering wheel, and rear bulkhead, then it is to option #2.
Option #2 - Modify the rear bulkhead, and see if I can still get a good sized custom fuel cell in the back.
Option #3- Run a fuel cell in the passenger compartment like the FFR 818R.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 11-20-2013 at 11:38 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Digging that Datsun, wonder why he locked up seems like he had plenty of room to get back on the gas.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
A comment and a few questions.
The sensor for the air pump system would only be needed if you use the stock ECU. I also cut away all the mass and only kept the sensor with my engine harness.
"Running the low ride height requires the use of a bumpsteer kit because the steering rack stays in the same chassis location." Does this mean that the steering rack can't be moved up to stay in plane?
Also, is there room for a fuel cell up front? For a racer, it seems like it might be an option (since we don't need that big a tank). I guess I could wait and ask these questions Friday when I visit FFR, but I thought I'd ask... Perhaps I need more ammunition.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
You could but it would require custom mounts, and maybe more. bump steer kits are not expensive and are probably the easiest option.
You could definitely fit a good sized fuel cell up front but it would have to be custom. nothing very large in a standard size would fit.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I started messing with the seat mounting. No need for me to cut the bars- I needed the seat farther back. I'm going to have to modify the rear firewall like other guys. The Fuel Cell will have to be narrow like the Boyd Tank, or go in the passenger area.
I need to weld in some metal for the seat mounts (over the seat area X's) or just bolt in some 1/4" Aluminum runners. I just need to wait for the seat slider to get here.
I also installed Michael's Alt bracket and turnbuckle. Nicely made parts.
I'm dealing with some issues on my Killer B Holy Header. First, Chris (Killer B) thinks it was messed up in shipping (not to me, but to Rallysport Direct because my shipping box was perfect) that's why I had to use pry bar to get it on studs. Secondly, AJW's motor they built me has some weird one off WRX oil cooler that Chris has never seen before, that's why the oil filter will not go on...... My luck. Hopefully AJW will send me what I need to install this header.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Last edited by C.Plavan; 11-27-2013 at 12:10 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Nice looking stuff for sure. A custom tall fuel cell in the area behind the passenger seat would work well IMO.
Agreed, nice pieces!
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Thanks! Just my luck though....... The CNC shop messed up on the thickness for the Inner Spacer blocks. They are going to recut them. Jeeeez- can I catch a break? lol
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Race Seat install update:
My sliders got here so I mounted them up. I then cut the metal runners and spaced them out on the chassis. I cut the front bracket (not bar).... I'm not even sure why that is there....Very unsafe if it was meant for a sub belt. I cut it out so the slider adjustment handle could pass under the angled front bar.
I got it where I liked it, and where the Sub strap mounts would go (6 point harness). The seat is still a little higher than I like. I may ditch the sliders as they add 1.5" to the total height (Rear of seat pretty much as low as I can go on the side mounts I may try one more hole lower to see if it will work)). I like to sit low, especially with no roof.
As for the other guys with 818R's- I doubt if you want to install the aluminum cockpit stuff on the drivers side door area (and leg area). It will get in the way since we cant open doors (and its sharp!). Plus, FFR is shorting us panels on the inside anyway. Its nothing like the 818S because of our roll bars. If I do install it, it will be on the other side of the door bar- As long if it does not interfere with the body installation.
Tomorrow morning will be "Welding Day" before Turkey..... if I get a Hall Pass from Wifey.
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Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
you're not welding in a side intrusion panels to help distribute any impact on the drivers door?
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
That is a great idea.
That would be the last thing before installing the body. You can pretty much use the FFR drivers side aluminum cockpit stuff as scrap. You just need to make your own without the 818S door angles.
I got the correct Spacer blocks already.
Looks like I may have to become a vendor if 818R or track height guys want these.
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Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
RE, the X under the seat Is someone else going to get to drive the car? Why have a slider? OK, someone else may drive so why not max out what you're working with? Lower the seat shell in the bracket as much as possible; even drill new holes and trim away the interfering areas. Next, if not enough, cut into the X. Can't you drop half of the slider down to the level of the cross-bars? Put your adapter-mounting strips for the slider right into the X. Only issue I can think of is that I know my adjuster handle was a finger pincher on my STI. I had to be very careful when I moved the seat forward.
On a different subject, I was wondering about why there were side panels/kick panels in a race car. I was thinking of leaving those off. A little, smooth thermo-formed ABS piece or just a bit of carpet might be nice for next to the dead pedal.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Plaven mentioned racing in an endurance series in his first post. I'd imagine this would include quick driver changes, thus the sliders.
Last edited by Canadian818; 11-28-2013 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Too early
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
Canadian818 is right. I need sliders for the other drivers jumping in for future endurance races (NASA WERC series- 25 hours of T-Hill). That will not happen right away, but I might as well do it now with the body off.
As for using the steel runners and not just welding the slider on- I want to be able to remove the slider later on without grinding it out. Plus, adding a little strength/protection to the xbars where my butt is ~5-6 inches off the ground makes me feel better.
If you read my post, I am going to try and lower the seat one more hole on the side mounts. What you also need to consider is the rear firewall that is not in right now. Once you get your kit, and are able to look at it, things will become a lot clearer than some Douchebag like myself posting pictures and describing what they are doing. In fact, you will have it already planned out for you.
I like welding instead of drilling holes into critical areas like the seat area X bar. That also makes me feel better.
There is no wrong way to build a race car, as long as it is safe.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 11-28-2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: No Coffee yet
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I do not think of you as a D******* and would never call you one.There is absolutely no "right way" to build this kit. For me, it's not "my way or the highway" either. I encourage input from others. It will probably help me to dodge some bullets.
Let me say that I have envisioned notches out of the X and steel rails with tapped holes welded in. Then there is less build-up of materials and you retain and improve on the strength of the X. I am 6 foot so it may not be an issue for my car.
You are correct; a lot of what I am doing is near conjecture. All will be revealed; but I can't wait!!!
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
When you press rear bearings into a knuckle before bolting on the rear caliper backing plate, you can call yourself a DB... lol. If you cant make fun of yourself, you are not living right. Haha.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
My sliders lift the seat 3/4 of an inch. I got them from Cerrullo.com I welded in the front netserts to allow the seat to be bolted in with 5/16 button heads. I'm going to use regular bolts in the rear and am adding some angle brackets to attach my regular seat belts. Perhaps a harness in my 818S later...
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Last edited by C.Plavan; 11-28-2013 at 07:13 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I hate the look, funny we can't give them the same look when they have us in a store for hours looking at bags and shoes
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Call them... I bought them with my seats for another project in 1988-89. I don't have a part number. They have been modified from stock and I welded in the 5/16 stainless button heads that allow them to slide past the seat mounting bolts. I'm going to extend the seat adjustment lever 2 inches too. Both had the 3 mounting holes on each end, I cut off unneeded length on one.
slider 2.JPG
slider 1.JPG
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
You can also put me down for a set. Might as well start giving you and idea of the level of interest here.
Also, what thickness are you considering for an anti-intrusion plate over the door bars? I think I've heard FFRSpec72 and others mention this, but I haven't heard any mention of thickness.
Best,
-j
When I ran Dirt late model they required 1/8 inch plate on doorbars
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
I thought I'd go for a pedal box.
340-12410-lg.jpgPerhaps not this specific one, but the style with adjustable bias.
Another. http://www.racingpedalboxes.com/#!pr...c2=pedal-boxes
I'm wondering who has used them before and whether they prefer floor mounted, which seems more naturally ergonomic, or hung ones, like most of us have in our cars?
Last edited by Scargo; 12-01-2013 at 12:13 PM.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
That is a great pedal box for the money. Especially if you have a cable throttle. Where I run into troubles is I have the FBW throttle.
You may want to look at the OBP pedal boxes. There is one where the master cylinders (With remote reservoirs) are under the drivers feet so you don't have to mess with the firewall at all. It should give our cramped seating in the 818 a break.
Then you use a plate like this- or just fab one up:
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Last edited by C.Plavan; 12-01-2013 at 12:14 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Little update- I got the seat all bolted down where I like it. I dumped the sliders, but made it that I can use them later if needed. I got the shifter where I like it, I just need to permanently mount it.
I just finished mounting my pedal. I used a spacer on the bottom to get it out where I liked it (I used my other racecar as a guide). The FFR bracket needs to be designed better, period.
I will also brace it with an additional, removable bracket tying into the main pedal structure. It will make it sturdier for my lead foot.
The next step is to design a adjustable throttle stop. I may go with a simple long bolt, with a double nut for adjustment attached to firewall.
Next- Fuel cell measurement for a FIA rated cell. I have to be honest, I may put a normal Fuel Safe cell it in the passenger area- I do not like having the tank so close to the headers/motor. After getting my seat mounted where I like it, it moved the firewall back.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 12-05-2013 at 07:19 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)