Jaime's Western New York Build

[Frank818]

Nice weld.

Are you going to block off those side openings between the 2 rads so that the fans suck the air through the first rad instead of some of it from the sides (and top/bottom)?

[Jaime]

I don't mind if the fans don't draw through the intercooler radiator. Wayne used the same size and he said his was more than enough to do the job. I'd actually be happier if the main radiator got more fresh air.

[Frank818]

The rad is about half the size of the engine rad?

[Jaime]

Here's my mounting solution for the throttle pedal:

I started with a 2 inch aluminum angle, 3/16" thick and cut it to this:



After a test fit, the bottom hole needed to be located lower, so I did that, squared the holes for carriage bolts and had a scrap piece of aluminum welded to the top.

[Jaime]

Drilled holes to mount the pedal and a big hole to fit the end of the cable through:



Here is a test fit of the pedal:

[Jaime]

Here's a view of the top after installation. I slotted a pair of stainless steel 1/4-20 nuts to hold the cable end in place.



A view of the setup from the bottom:

[Jaime]

I was worried about the clutch pivot bar with the old mount, but now, the throttle hits the fully-open stop before the top of the pedal hits the bar.

[Jaime]

In the process of relocating the console vertical support bars so I can under-mount the shifter without moving it forward.

[Jaime]

Extra bracing is done, now time to mount the shifter.

[TahoeTim]

Just curious, did you consider a bolt in brace? The console seems to be one area where a bolt in or rivet in brace would be adequate to replace the brace you cut out.

[Jaime]

I can't see a good place to bolt a brace in other than where I welded. Those angles on the ends could make it quite a nightmare. Besides, welding only costs a few pennies and I need practice. This is an ideal practice spot because it will be entirely covered up.

[Jaime]

I cut four three inch spacers from square stock... I think they came out close enough:

[Jaime]

Here's the finished mount:

[Jaime]

Installed the parking brake. It is possible to get the Subaru lever straight and looking good. Here's mine (pardon the temporary bolt):







I see no need for a Lokar handle.

[Jaime]

I don't like the FFR way to mount the cable ends. Since I have a Boyd tank, I'm going to need an extended rear console cover and the cover is the cable mount. Also, the FFR solution has the cables on a really steep angle. Finally, the FFR design means that you have to mess with the cables if you only want to remove the cover. Here's my solution:

[AZPete]

Nice work, Jaime.

[Tamra]

Thanks for your instruction on installing the limited slip a few pages back. We just did ours today and your posts were very helpful.

[Jaime]

Glad to be of service.

[Jaime]

Getting pretty close to go-cart. A lot of little stuff to do. This afternoon's productivity was making a few brackets to keep stuff in the engine bay from rattling around:

[Jaime]

The first one is for the crank vent. I used the OEM crossover tubes that are normally attached to the intercooler.

[Jaime]

The second is for my fuel pressure regulator.



I don't think the rails and regulator I have are any better than OEM, but the OEM fuel delivery stuff gets in the way with those two bars crossing over the engine. By divorcing the fuel lines from the manifold, I can pull the manifold with the engine in the bay. A second bonus is that if I want to pull the engine, I can take the manifold off first, which makes it twenty times easier to get the engine out.

[Jaime]

Got my charcoal canister mounted.



I hope New York State is OK with the size of it. It was cheap and it fits great in the space available. The mounting tabs are perfect for the frame...



It's from a 2009 Yamaha Majesty scooter.

[Rasmus]

Got my charcoal canister mounted. It's from a 2009 Yamaha Majesty scooter.

A man after my lightweight heart. I love it. Hope it passes.

[Jaime]

First start!!!!

http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums...psifsnfhkt.mp4

I have a TGV code to figure out, but it runs OK.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

First start!!!!

http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums...psifsnfhkt.mp4

I have a TGV code to figure out, but it runs OK.

Way to go Jaime. keep the pictures and videos coming. The first go kart drive can't be far off.
Bob

[Frank818]

Congrats! You are a now a proper mechanic. loll

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start!

Can you tell me more about your charcoal canister? Specifically, I'm curious to see how you are going to purge the canister. I've been trying to figure this out on my build and it seems that if you do away with all the fuel take sensors and values from the factory evap system, you then lose the feature of the ECU selecting the right time and pulsing vacuum to purge the canister. Obviously you wouldn't want to just run a vacuum line from the canister to the intake full time or that would end up as a gaping vacuum leak so I'm curious to see how you dealt with it.

[Jaime]

I left the purge solenoid in. I plumbed the carb outlet of the canister to the vent solenoid and left all the stuff between the solenoid and the manifold/inlet in place.

If it turns out that the ECU won't fire the solenoid, I'll rig up my own electronics. For example, I might open the purge valve for a second or two at zero throttle opening. However, I don't think any of the stuff in the evap canister would help the ECU do its thing. The drain valve and pressure sensor are there to check for leaks and I can't see how the temp sensor would factor into the decision to purge.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Jaime. When you say vent solenoid, you are talking about the one up by the engine that the ECU uses to activate the purge right? My only concern is that the ECU doesn't fire it because all the stuff on the OEM evap canister and fuel tank is missing. But if that's the case, you have a plan to rig something up..... is that something that can be custom programmed in the ECU or are you talking about creating some sort of stand-alone controller?

I'm also wondering, with a charcoal canister and a good sized vent line to it from the tank, if the issues people have mentioned regarding filling their tank (fuel pump nozzle keeps clicking off prematurely unless you fill extremely slow) will be solved.....

[matteo92065]

oh!, I like this. Ill copy it if its ok.

Edit: I was responding to post #135

[Jaime]

oh!, I like this. Ill copy it if its ok.

Edit: I was responding to post #135

I'm flattered, copy away.

[Jaime]

Thanks Jaime. When you say vent solenoid, you are talking about the one up by the engine that the ECU uses to activate the purge right? My only concern is that the ECU doesn't fire it because all the stuff on the OEM evap canister and fuel tank is missing. But if that's the case, you have a plan to rig something up..... is that something that can be custom programmed in the ECU or are you talking about creating some sort of stand-alone controller?

That's correct. I never considered that the ECU wouldn't trigger it - so I'm going to put an LED somewhere up front so I can keep an eye on when it's open. If it never does, then I was thinking about something stand-alone. I play with microcontrollers as a hobby.

I'm also wondering, with a charcoal canister and a good sized vent line to it from the tank, if the issues people have mentioned regarding filling their tank (fuel pump nozzle keeps clicking off prematurely unless you fill extremely slow) will be solved.....

That would be nice, but I'm not holding my breath. I'm pretty sure that the pump auto-shutoff is the real problem, and it requires a vent parallel to the fill tube, exiting above the point where the filler nozzle goes into the fill tube.

[Hindsight]

I'm pretty sure that the pump auto-shutoff is the real problem, and it requires a vent parallel to the fill tube, exiting above the point where the filler nozzle goes into the fill tube.

Sounds like an opportunity for one of the vendors

[Jaime]

My intercooler now is finalized and works. Here is what I did:

Overview of the water loop:


I use the heat exchanger as the reservoir and the pump draws from it and pump water back and up to the intercooler. The return line goes to the top of the heat exchanger. This should keep the pump wet and make any air in the system collect in the heat exchanger. Bleeding is as simple as getting enough water in to prime the pump. Then run, stop, fill, repeat. I have about six quarts in the system.

[Jaime]

I used a Frozen Boost type 100 heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator...


Hardware store plumbing fittings to turn the corner...

[Jaime]

I have a Bosch pump mounted in front of the firewall...


Lower heat exchanger outlet jumps over the steering rack in goes into the pump inlet...


The pump outlet does a nice gradual 180 to run alongside the cooling tube on the driver's side...

[Jaime]

Here's the tubes on the side...


And where they go up...

[Hindsight]

Good info. At 2lbs per quart, the water only adds 12lbs. So between that and all the other added parts like plumbing and exchanger, Wayne's estimate of 30lbs or so seems spot on. Well worth it if it does the job.

[Jaime]

The hose from the pump outlet goes to the far side of the intercooler and the other intercooler fitting comes back to a fill port...


From the fill port, the hose goes back to the top fitting on the heat exchanger.

[Jaime]

The air path is really simple...

Two inch silicone from the turbo outlet to a 2 to 2.5 inch 90. The bypass is on a 2.5 inch by 1 inch tee. Then into the intercooler with a 2.5 to 3 inch 90. I had to trim the two 90s down a bit to get the length I wanted.