Finally!!! Another 6cyl!!
I thought the H6 was "unboostable" due to weird crank or rod angle and lack of aftermarket parts, was that more for the 3.6?
Ok you got H6 3.0 or 3.6?
How much boost and power you could get out of it (boosted)?
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Finally!!! Another 6cyl!!
I thought the H6 was "unboostable" due to weird crank or rod angle and lack of aftermarket parts, was that more for the 3.6?
Ok you got H6 3.0 or 3.6?
How much boost and power you could get out of it (boosted)?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Both have been turbo'd, on the Haltec website There's a link to an ez36 build.
The 3.6 has offset rods but has been boosted low pressure the most famous being the mighty car mods Gramps build. Some obstacles are the small rods, 10.7:1 compression and open deck block. Wayne pulled 320ish at 8psi stock block (larger injectors). With rods, pistons, sleeves valves and springs Perrin got 600 around 20psi if I recall. I recall seeing a twin ez with 1400ish but it had closed deck block built heads pistons rods crank and twin snails and a horrid torque curve
Last edited by alpine227; 08-22-2017 at 02:38 PM.
I am running the 1st gen ez30 single port. I am using a crossover pipe similar to the ej20 had to relocate a few pesky coolant lines still fabricating the rest of it. The uppipe is going to pass near stock turbo location hook down go through hiflow cat, flow through muffler. Winter time will add turbo flange, and ewg plumbing.
I scored a H6 outback for $300 had a blown transmission sold a few hundred of parts and should get some more from the scrap yard. So I got paid for this engine! Feels weird making money on new parts... May even make enough for the new injectors.
https://youtu.be/Ow3xa8jpU5c
First start of the H6, I need to adjust idle settings. Also not good for the tinnitus without exhaust on.
Congrats on the first start! What are your plans for the exhaust?
Well my first thought was to use the header I had from my wrx that was h6 swapped but clearance issues with chassis and coolant lines I have moved to to disturbingly tight bends up between the heads and motor mounts to a 2 into 1 cat 2 180 degree bends to a flow through muffler out the back. This is because I have all the pipe on hand and I am currently executing operation get this thing back on the road before the white stuff falls from the sky. The winter I will build a crossover and uppipe similar to Wayne's for the gt35 turbo setup with 321 stainless and someone who welds better than me.
Awesome 1st start! It looks monstrous when you give it some gas!!
321 stainless? Never heard of that metal type, what's so special about it?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
321 is similar to 304 but with titanium in it. It is more resistant to cracking due to high tempatures than 304.
Is there enough titanium in it to change the exhaust note?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I don't know if it changes the tone, however fun lesson learned today don't pick up with bare hands the piece you just finished welding 2 seconds prior, probably shouldn't be in the garage today have a 102 fever not really running on all cylinders. The only things my kids share is brocolli and germs.
https://youtu.be/8qbavtcQxvs
No more boxer rumble. Ignore my out of date virus protection. Still needs a tune but i don't need hearing protection now!
How did you change the usual sound like that? Amazing!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I ran the oem 2:1 cat and a flow through muffler. The induction noise is probably louder than the exhaust ATM.
https://youtu.be/fqH6twsUJMU
Definitely enjoying the extra two cylinders it does seem to run out of steam in the top end though might need some more manifold pressure
It has some kind of a racing sound in there, love it! Maybe a little Porsche-like or something... Not the big 3.6 Porsches but say the earlier ones.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
The car sounds more like it looks in Comparison to the H4. New issue is the outback cluster is too wide for the guage pod from ffr and ms3 can't scale the tach output for 6cyl on a 4cyl tach it can only double it or half it. Possible solution is make an overlay for the guage face calibrated for the 6cyl my observing needle location at various RPMs confirmed on tuning software. Or use a pic controller to intercept and scale the signal (not sure how much delay this would cause I am guessing it's a square wave output)
Isn't the RPM signal pulse-based? Like 2 pulses per second, 4, etc... If so, you could convert the 6cyl's output pulses to whatever the tach is expecting, assuming such a conversion is possible.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I do not know what firmware version you are using with your MS3 but the latest version does have variable scaling built into the tach output.
Update your firmware and your tach problem is solved for free!
tach.png
MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A
A few mouse clicks and I have an accurate tach thanks again.
Your H6 sounds great.
Thank you, I am happy with the way it turned out. My inner teenager is pouting because there is no bov sound though.
Sounds great!!! Nice work.
The stock headers, were hacked up and some obsurdidly poor flowing tight turns were made to clear the chassis and suspension. The primarys bolt up to the factory 2:1 cat than into a 3" flow through muffler out the back. I will take some pictures tomorrow and upload them for you. It's honestly quickly done poorly planned exhaust setup with the goal of getting some more miles on it before the snow starts falling. Flanges weld els and bits are on order for this winter project of adding boost.
can you fit the raptor header? i know they make huge gains.
http://raptorsc.com.au/subaru/subaru...n-ez30-header/
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
The Raptor headers don't fit. I have a pair. I haven't decided whether to cut them or to start from scratch.
how much boost are you planning on running? a tuned intake long tube header and exhaust might be good for almost 45 hp.
might not be worth the added expense, complication, and weight to go turbo if you don't plan on really boosting it.
good to know. easier to cut the frame or the header?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
The header. The raptor headers would have to go thru the part of the frame that the engine mounts to. I'm pretty sure I'm going to route it the way that John (hobby racer) is going to, except that I'll be going out the back instead of through the humps like he is planning.
Expense is pretty low turbo and ewg is on the shelf. Will turn a npple for oil return and weld to valve cover and have parts for oil feed and coolant lines on hand as well. The only cost will be a t3 flange and materials for manifold and uppipe.
I was playing around with a spare set of first gen ez30 injectors. They are air assist and have a very unusual pintle caps. They flow around 230cc/min. I removed the cap and noticed they have a similar disk covering the output side as wrx injectors. I decapped the disk reassembled the injectors and did a crude flow test using a graduated cylinder fuel pressure regulator, walbro external pump and a push button to simulate to energize the injector and a tee and fuel line for a make shift rail. I ran the pump to prime the fuel rail and energized the injector to similate 100% duty cycle and ran the test for 30 seconds. I conducted the test on 7 spare injectors I had 6 out of 7 produced between 320 and 330 cc per the 30 seconds and one odd ball ran 290 cc. I checked the odd ball a second time with the same results. Spray pattern was a bit dodgy but the factory pattern wasn't great either.
https://youtu.be/-jLUemFSWqE
Closed course professional driver.
Are there any oem or after market ring and pinon gears that are a bit longer? Just kinda noise at cruise and have to shift twice for 60mph.
I replaced the factory oil "cooler" with an external air to oil cooler mounter in the driver's side scoop.i need to make some ducting for it still. The 198k motor is consuming a little bit of coolant so a rebuild is in order this winter before she see some positive pressure.
are you running the 5mt? what final drive do you currently have? there are 4 oem ratios made.
https://www.flatironstuning.com/p-26...-gear-set.aspx
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Should be 3.9 I found this a few days ago its not a huge change but does get me to just over 60 in second. Added to Christmas list with LSD.
Had a little flat 6 therapy today before it all gets pulled for a rebuild and boost. Melts the stress away!