#9196 475hp 347 MK4 Roadster Build (Insurance and Plates)

**TexasAviator** · 09-10-2018, 10:29 PM

Does anyone know what the powersteering camber caster should be?

**edwardb** · 09-11-2018, 05:25 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Does anyone know what the powersteering camber caster should be?

Front end alignment for power steering setups is typically +8 degrees caster, -0.5 degrees camber, approx 1/16 total toe in.

**Joecobr** · 09-11-2018, 05:39 AM

I’ve got a 98 power steering rack and 95 spindles. I had to shorten the rear UCA arms to get about 6.5 degree caster. Could not get anymore.

**Jeff Kleiner** · 09-11-2018, 06:03 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Does anyone know what the powersteering camber caster should be?

For a primarily street driven car you want approximately 8 degrees of positive caster, .5 to .75 degree negative camber and 3/32" total toe in. Track and autocross go to 1 to 1.5 degrees negative camber and bring toe more to zero (you'll get better bite at initial turn in but the car can become darty). You will likely find that the rear adjuster sleeve will bottom out when trying to achieve the higher positive caster setting which will require cutting back the sleeve about 1/4" along with taking a similar amount from the male stubs so that they don't bottom internally.

Jeff

**TexasAviator** · 09-18-2018, 12:17 PM

Thanks everyone,

Is there a picture or write up of the cuts? I know what you mean on the upper control arm sleeve but what about the stubs are you referring?

Thanks,
Brandon

**Jeff Kleiner** · 09-18-2018, 12:56 PM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Thanks everyone,

Is there a picture or write up of the cuts? I know what you mean on the upper control arm sleeve but what about the stubs are you referring?

Thanks,
Brandon

The male portion that threads into the sleeve. If they are left as is they'll bottom out inside the sleeve.

Jeff

**TexasAviator** · 09-19-2018, 08:21 PM

Got it thanks. SO 1/4 off sleeve and a 1/4 off the bolt threads on the aft most upper control arm on both sides.

**Jeff Kleiner** · 09-20-2018, 05:29 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Got it thanks. SO 1/4 off sleeve and a 1/4 off the bolt threads on the aft most upper control arm on both sides.

Yep, that should allow you to get caster in the +8 degree range with negative camber.

Jeff

**boat737** · 09-20-2018, 08:05 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Thanks everyone,

Is there a picture or write up of the cuts? I know what you mean on the upper control arm sleeve but what about the stubs are you referring?

Thanks,
Brandon

Here's what I did. Cut the sleeves and removable stubs on a bandsaw, and the welded stub on the car with a saws-all. I was shooting for 1/8 inch off of each end (including the cut width), so pretty close to 1/4 inch total.

**TexasAviator** · 09-22-2018, 08:18 PM

Thanks brother.

**TexasAviator** · 10-04-2018, 08:08 PM

Won a weekly highlight by Craftsman yesterday. We build Pride.

Clicky

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoezvSUH...n-by=craftsman

Capture.PNG

**cgundermann** · 10-04-2018, 10:09 PM

Very, very cool Brandon!

Congrats,

Chris

**Yama-Bro** · 10-05-2018, 10:34 AM

That Craftsman instagram recognition is cool. Congrats! The majority of my tools are Craftsman.

**shark92651** · 11-01-2018, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

Lastly here is the rest of the install.

Hey Brandon question about the diodes. Are they needed here because you are feeding both the running lights AND the brake light to the 3rd brake light?

**TexasAviator** · 11-01-2018, 08:39 PM

Originally Posted by shark92651

Hey Brandon question about the diodes. Are they needed here because you are feeding both the running lights AND the brake light to the 3rd brake light?

As you stated the left and right blinkers are on separate circuits. If i ran them to the same combined source, when I hit my blinker they both would turn on making my blinkers always blink both sides. By using the diodes it separates the two circuits and only allows the current to flow one direction to the third brake light. I get the blink and solid light feature only at the 3rd brake light now. Its a limitation I knew would cause the light to act on either circuit due to the blinker handle module I used by GROTE. I could have ran a separate wire to the brake pedal switch and it would have only activated the 3rd light alone but I wanted to combine the left and right so that the 3rd brake light would blink no matter what side the turn signal was on. Its a AND transistor in a sense. Look up "AND" gate transistor. THis is what its doing. Also an update to the design. I soldered in much larger diodes to take the power the brake bulbs were pulling. I used chunkier 6 amp units, the smaller ones burned out.

20181101_203055 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

So let me explain my signals.

LEFT Blinker = left blink and center brake light blink
RIGHT Blinker = right blink and center brake light blink
DEPRESS BRAKE PEDAL = left and right bright and center light steady

Without the diodes all would blink and when brake depressed would still be steady but also short left and right sides. Hope this helps.

**TexasAviator** · 11-01-2018, 08:53 PM

Bought these LED Chrome bezel lights from super bright leds .com , drilled holes through the main 2 inch tube, mounted them with the provided screws. Heat shrunk the wires in the tube and wired them into the lighting relay circuit powered by the headlight switch.

20180901_140050 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20180901_140207 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181101_203357 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181101_203329 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**TexasAviator** · 11-01-2018, 08:59 PM

20181029_160745 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181029_160527 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**cgundermann** · 11-01-2018, 10:26 PM

Look at you go!

Nice,

Chris

**TexasAviator** · 11-03-2018, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by Yama-Bro

That Craftsman instagram recognition is cool. Congrats! The majority of my tools are Craftsman.

Mine too and now that SBD own them we should see more innovation and quality.

**TexasAviator** · 11-03-2018, 09:31 PM

The amp install got its own dedicated source of 12 gauge wire for power and is key on and acc with the system wiring. I wired my entire car strand by strand so its not quite as clean as a harness but there is no circuit untouched and thought through. This keeps my harness diet in check and gives me a lot of options. The options here are a 4 channel high power amplifier using bluetooth as a source and powering 2 jl audio coax speakers in the rear deck and 2 in the footwell, totaling 8 speakers.

20180903_170828 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_205857 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_205900 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_211412 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_211422 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_211659 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181103_211704 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**TexasAviator** · 11-06-2018, 11:20 PM

Got some new stuff in. I bought one of the last orders from FFR. I got the hinge kit for the hood with the shocks. Its a great kit and its well thought out. I got the wind wings ordered and sitting here but will install those after I get the car on the road. I bought a key ring for the FFR key set. And lastly I got the grommets from FFR. All was in stock, dont trust their website.

20181106_170502 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181106_170508 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181106_170537 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

20181106_170806 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**TexasAviator** · 11-06-2018, 11:22 PM

This is my happy place after a long day at work.

20181106_171011 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**snowdave** · 11-16-2018, 09:24 AM

Wow! I just finished reading your build and there are some similarities to what I am planning. I am curious why you chose a new 347 if the donor already had a built motor? I presume that decision added quite a bit of cost to the build. I am leaning toward freshening up the built motor from my donor, but keeping it pretty low cost.

**TexasAviator** · 11-16-2018, 06:19 PM

Thanks for reading up. We are all here to learn and bring something different to the table with our varying skillsets.

I chose to build a motor because I wanted 475hp vs the 300 from the built 302. I also knew I could build a motor for far less than what a shop or engine builder could do it for. I also got to be incredibly detailed on what I wanted all the way down to the cam. It was a challenge and I wanted to take it head on to prove that I was capable. It really was about my own feeling of accomplishment. It was risky but I did my homework and built a powerful engine for little money. I weighed the costs, decided on a horsepower number and went after it.

Good luck on your build.

**TexasAviator** · 11-18-2018, 11:33 PM

My plates that I am going to try for: (only allowed 6) * is a Texas silhouette, & is a star, @ is a heart
65CBRA
FACT*5
F5RMK4
TXAV8R

I am about to register my car. Got insurance through Farm Bureau @ Hagerty's for 74 a month. USAA that I have been with has better policy details but it cost 90 dollars a month. I am married, 38, clean record but man they want some coin to insure it. I insured it for 50K, 200 mile range, regular driving options and excellent collision, uninsured motorist, etc. What do you all think about these prices?

Got everything printed out from the DMV, all info from the forums, and all the details laid out.

What do you all think?

**CDXXVII** · 11-19-2018, 12:03 AM

I think your insurance quote cost is a bit high. I called Hagerty's and they were going to rake me over the coals in California. Did you try and call Robin at Midwest Classic Insurance? Time and time again, he knows his stuff and will most likely save you money for a better policy. He is also a vendor here.

What is the 200 mile range about? My insurance is $52K agreed upon value and 6000 miles a year. Considerably cheaper than your quote.

https://www.midwestclassicinsurance.com/

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

My plates that I am going to try for: (only allowed 6) * is a Texas silhouette, & is a star, @ is a heart
65CBRA
FACT*5
F5RMK4
TXAV8R

I am about to register my car. Got insurance through Farm Bureau @ Hagerty's for 74 a month. USAA that I have been with has better policy details but it cost 90 dollars a month. I am married, 38, clean record but man they want some coin to insure it. I insured it for 50K, 200 mile range, regular driving options and excellent collision, uninsured motorist, etc. What do you all think about these prices?

Got everything printed out from the DMV, all info from the forums, and all the details laid out.

What do you all think?

**TexasAviator** · 11-19-2018, 12:28 AM

Originally Posted by CDXXVII

I think your insurance quote cost is a bit high. I called Hagerty's and they were going to rake me over the coals in California. Did you try and call Robin at Midwest Classic Insurance? Time and time again, he knows his stuff and will most likely save you money for a better policy. He is also a vendor here.

What is the 200 mile range about? My insurance is $52K agreed upon value and 6000 miles a year. Considerably cheaper than your quote.

https://www.midwestclassicinsurance.com/

The 200 mile thing is where you arent planning on taking the car outside a 200 mile radius. Its not a conventional driven car, etc. I want it to be covered for daily driving however. I want to drive it as much as possible. Is your Midwest good for everyday driving? Is it good for driving across the country? I looked at their site and they are stating you must not drive the car for conventional driving in the underwriting section.

**bobl** · 11-19-2018, 01:22 AM

I had mine with Midwest and it was $600/yr for 50k agreed value and no restrictions. I switched to State Farm once it was registered for the same cost and coverage, since I've had insurance with them for 40+ years and have everything with them. Your mileage may vary. My brother just got Midwest on his uncompleted build last week. Give Robin a call for sure.

Bob

**bobl** · 11-19-2018, 01:26 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

My plates that I am going to try for: (only allowed 6) * is a Texas silhouette, & is a star, @ is a heart
65CBRA
FACT*5
F5RMK4
TXAV8R

I am about to register my car. Got insurance through Farm Bureau @ Hagerty's for 74 a month. USAA that I have been with has better policy details but it cost 90 dollars a month. I am married, 38, clean record but man they want some coin to insure it. I insured it for 50K, 200 mile range, regular driving options and excellent collision, uninsured motorist, etc. What do you all think about these prices?

Got everything printed out from the DMV, all info from the forums, and all the details laid out.

What do you all think?

I vote for TXAV8R.

**Jeff Kleiner** · 11-19-2018, 06:27 AM

Originally Posted by TexasAviator

...Got insurance through Farm Bureau @ Hagerty's for 74 a month.

What do you all think?

Sounds kind of high Brandon however I know that things can vary widely between states, even with the same carrier. You may find it worthwhile to check into State Farm. Point of reference; mine is $208 per year with all of the same high limit liability, medical, uninsured motorist coverage as all of our daily drivers and a $40K agreed value (VERY IMPORTANT---be sure that you understand the difference between "Agreed value" and "Stated value"...you'll want "agreed"). This is with no mileage or use restrictions.

Definitely TXAV8R

Jeff

**GoDadGo** · 11-19-2018, 06:33 AM

I recently got a quote from my insurance carrier (State Farm) and it was around $40.00 per month for $40,000.00 of Stated Value Coverage.
Liability was 100/300 like the rest of the Go-Dad fleet and they have my home and boats insured too.
Just understand that where I live (Near New Orleans) rates tend to be quite high.
As for the plate verbiage, well I also vote for:

TXAV8R

NOTE:..I love your wheel choice and my go down that path if I decide to get a stickier set of donuts (Nitto NT-01 Tires) for auto-crossing

**Jeff Kleiner** · 11-19-2018, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by GoDadGo

...Stated Value Coverage...

Steve,
As I mentioned in my reply to Brandon be sure that you understand the difference between Stated Value and Agreed Value.

In a nutshell with agreed value both you and the insurer agree going in what the settlement would be in the event of a total loss, i.e.; agreed value of $40K would pay $40K. Some insurers will ask for an appraisal, others (like mine) simply request a set of photos.

With stated value the insurer agrees to pay up to the stated amount but reserves the right to depreciate the car or devalue it based on the actual sale prices of similar vehicles i.e.; they may deem that the actual real world market value is somewhat lower that the stated $40K and will only pay out that lesser amount. You could be holding $30,000 worth of parts reciepts and their position would be that those are now used and therefore depreciated and your labor for the build is worth exactly what you paid for it---zero dollars.

Buyer beware.

Jeff

**cgundermann** · 11-19-2018, 10:28 AM

Without a doubt:

TXAV8R

Chris

**TexasAviator** · 11-19-2018, 09:01 PM

Ok TXAV8R it is, that is, if its not already taken.

So I got back from my friend at the Texas Farm Bureau and signed up for the insurance. I got unlimited miles, 50000 agreed and guaranteed value and yes for where I am in Texas I got raked over some coals. I paid 800 cash for the insurance with towing and 500 deductible. I could save more but the collision was the big deciding factor. I live in an area with a lot of hail and tornadic activity, a poor area of Texas, and our uninsured premiums are high. So its not the best price, I am sure to have my car insured well with someone I personally know and trust. I also got a free Hagerty Subscription.

2018-11-19_07-56-27 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

**TexasAviator** · 11-27-2018, 08:44 PM

Well I failed my inspection...

They needed a windshield wiper. I am now trying to figure out how to do a manual wiper for cheap.

On another note, I found that my starter solenoid wiring on my starter is undersized and is having a hard time engaging the flywheel with its current draw requirements. So when I start my car I get a loud click but no start. I thought it was my battery but after investigating with a ammeter, its pulling 30 amps through a small 16 gauge wire that is about 6 feet long or so. I am going to run new 12 gauge through the loom using the other wire to pull the length to the starter relay circuit in my dash.

Another quirk I discovered with my first test drive was that my car has zero traction. I have tandem return springs on my FiTECH EFI thottle body to harden up the go pedal but my car will fish tail in every gear through acceleration. My word this car is so fun but I cant get it to accelerate without spinning tires.

Otherwise I just went on my first 20 mile round trip and the car is great. I got tons of people rolling down their windows asking me if its a big block and I tell them its a small block stroker and they give me a ??? look. haha. I have to say without a doubt the 347 is a great match to these cars for pure power and fun. I just find the car very very light.

The T5Z is shifting like a boss and I am absolutely in love with the great smooth shifts. All the gauges are working perfect and the car feels great on the road. I still need to dial the front end alignment in but everything in time.

I just have to go back to the shop that inspected my car for FREE! and show them I have a clamp on wiper and I am on the road!

**SSNK4US** · 11-27-2018, 10:35 PM

Bummer.... sorry you failed your inspection. I’ve seen a bunch of California cars with no wipers so hopefully that’s not an issue out here. Our body is still on the chassis so I’m no help for insurance.

I vote for TXAV8R too.... I hope it’s not taken. It just fits you

We’ve had SSNK4US for a couple of years... assigned to our boat trailer and sitting on our mantle for inspiration to buy our kit lol

Another one to add to your list if it’s taken.... CBRA@R @ = <3 lol

Kurt

18A96E05-D338-43B1-85BE-2202328B8E34.jpeg

**TexasAviator** · 11-30-2018, 07:11 PM

I will have an update on the inspection next week. I bought a manual boat window wiper for the inspection on amazon. Should be here soon. I cant wait. We have had beautiful fall weather here in Texas. 70 degree days and lots of sunshine. Should be good to run the car in the winter down here through many of the weeks leading up to our bitterly frozen month of February. Thanks for the kind words Kurt!

Brandon

**cgundermann** · 11-30-2018, 08:14 PM

Originally Posted by SSNK4US

Bummer.... sorry you failed your inspection. I’ve seen a bunch of California cars with no wipers so hopefully that’s not an issue out here. Our body is still on the chassis so I’m no help for insurance.

I vote for TXAV8R too.... I hope it’s not taken. It just fits you

We’ve had SSNK4US for a couple of years... assigned to our boat trailer and sitting on our mantle for inspiration to buy our kit lol

Another one to add to your list if it’s taken.... CBRA@R @ = <3 lol

Kurt

18A96E05-D338-43B1-85BE-2202328B8E34.jpeg

Funny, I’ve had “Venom-s” since the mid 90s and have hanged it on a number of vehicles - as a placeholder because my dream was to build a Cobra. Think I got it right about the time FFR started up...

Chris

**TexasAviator** · 01-08-2019, 07:50 PM

So in order to pass inspection I had to buy a boat wiper, throw some rubber grommets on it and cut about an inch or more off the stainless steel rod to get it just right. All in all not bad and its actually effective but I will probably never use it.

Yay Texas wiper laws.

**cgundermann** · 01-09-2019, 09:05 PM

Ditch it after inspection; it’s a fair weather car anyways...

Nothing on mine.

Chris

Thread: #9196 475hp 347 MK4 Roadster Build (Insurance and Plates)

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