# 1002, SVTFreaks build.

[Svtfreak]

Got my intercooler/coolant reservoir mounted up!

It’s tucked up in there. Pump is mounted. Need to order some fittings and my low temp radiator for the intercooler and fans.


That’s looking up from the bottom
[img]https://i.imgur.com/s2FFdu3.jpg[/img

You’ll have to peek up behind the rear tire to see the level in it. But, if I get it right, level shouldn’t be a problem.

[Svtfreak]

I’m still here! I’ve been tightening up loose ends, finishing up steps that were partially done, and tending to sickness (freakin upper respiratory infection knocked me out almost 2 weeks!). Hopefully I’ll have an update soon with all the little final things figured out and done. I’ve had two false starts in intercooler and trans cooler mounting, that’s taken up a lot of time. About to order two new identical coolers to make a neat stack that fits where I want so will be waiting for that. Meantime….

Cup holders!

[Svtfreak]

Got some stuff figured out where to put it and holes cut. Ac controls, ac vents (that drivers side gonna be a bear to hook up once body is on), and passenger speaker locations. I’ll get to drivers side next but it’s getting hot here. South Louisiana summers humidity are brutal and cutting my days short as I get older. Plus, gotta being the 15 year old ball of attitude for dentist appt today. Although he did hang out with me a bit out here today. Building cars ain’t his thing. He’s a musician I think. My 5 year old, he will be the hot rodder I think.




Getting real close to ready to blow up for paint. A serious shop clean out comes first though lol.

[Svtfreak]

That’s it. Mechanically complete. Everything is mounted, plumbed, fit, wired (except the ac/trinary), etc. Just a few loose ends to tidy up, then it’s gonna be a MAJOR shop clean out day or two, then on to disassembly for paint.

The last step I was working on was mounting the trans and intercooler. I went through a few variations with different coolers. It dawned on me that I am not guiding a track attack machine and I didn’t need the huge LTR for the blower. It just needs to cool down the occasional stoplight confrontation so, I found a trans cooler that worked for both and was able to stack them and really clean up what I was originally working towards. So here it is.

Riveted pads to the aluminum and ran long studs into those. The studs are wrapped in plastic shrink wrap to help protect the tubing they go between.



Coolers stacked and mounted on the studs. There is rubber between the pads and the coolers, between the coolers, and between the cooler retention peices and the coolers to help isolate and prevent any rubbing through of anything



All complete, fan mounted, plumbed up.


All those hoses are going to get mounted with real hose separators into the frame tubes. I’ll fit those when I’m taking apart since I can’t really get to where I need to drill and tap right now.

Now on to tidying up a few things and cleaning this dadgum shop out! I may do a skim coat and sand it before I do that so I don’t have to do it outside. Once I clean this shop, I’m not doing dusty work in here anymore.

[Alan_C]

You going to do some road testing before teardown for paint? I am really curious about the operation of the 6R80 and controlling the sport mode with the Lokar shifter.
I am in the body work phase now on my build but I have yet to fire the engine. Two years or so away from first start.

[Svtfreak]

You going to do some road testing before teardown for paint? I am really curious about the operation of the 6R80 and controlling the sport mode with the Lokar shifter.
I am in the body work phase now on my build but I have yet to fire the engine. Two years or so away from first start.

Alan, I did a bit of that already. If you look back, I swapped from the stock converter to a 3400 from yank. The only 2 problems I had was it pushed through the converter on the brakes. Bigger brakes will probably help, butt he standard FFR ones are just too small. Did a whole lot of troubleshooting before I tried that. Now, it stops and holds stop just fine. It’s just too light for the factory converter, at least with the small brakes. If I was staking with these, I would go up to 36-3800, but I’ll be putting the huge ones on for final build. Secondly, with the VERY low 1st in the 6r80, and 3.55’s, the throttle off idle is VERY touchy. Initially, the tuner was hesitant to touch that. “We’ve never had to do that”. “You ever tune a 1900lb car with a supercharged setup?” “No”. Well, I finally got them to slow the throttle off idle a bit and it made a huge difference. So, my brother has learned how to tune these. How and why is a long story, but he’s better than most tuners out there. He’s done his own 19 mustang with a whipple. So, anyway, for the final tune, him and I are going to do it and slow it down a touch more. Combined with taller rear tires when I get them, it will smooth some of that touchiness out. You can also go taller in the rear gear, which I will probably do also. Maybe up to 3.27 or even 3.08’s. The only downside is, lookout. Cause at some point you have to ramp that slow initial throttle in, and at that point, things might get interesting.

As far as sport mode, the gen 2 controls pack (the only thing I’ve messed with so this may not be true for any other version) doesn’t have a true sports mode. It has the manual shift ability, but it doesn’t stay in manual. I have it set up on the lokar so that you can downshift and upshift. But, after about 10 seconds or so, the ecu takes over again. FRPP says that the full sport mode functions are not included in the controls pack ecu. Keith (prgmgr) was trying to make that part work but he hasn’t said if it does or not yet.

If you’d like to talk in person more, you’re more than welcome to call me one day. I’ve helped a couple guys get the 6r80 going on there’s and really don’t mind.

[Alan_C]

Yes I do remember your trying to sort out the converter issues.
I do not have SC on mine and my Mustang will be more like 3200 lbs when complete. Hopefully more along the lines of what Ford had intended for the setup. Like you I went with a 3.55 rear ratio as well. On my Mustang forum guys were comparing their overall first gear rations. Just for grins I calculated out mine as being in excess of 12. I expect this thing to jump out of the hole and then shift.
I am disappointed that the PCM will override the sport shift input. Should Keith determine how to enable the full sport mode, I would like to be kept in the loop.
As is so often the case with modifying a 52 year old car, I found the condition of the quarter panels on the car to be poor on the right side and really bad on the left. Currently finishing up fitting of the LH quarter skin with the RH now on order. More time and effort but will be a better repair. I had thoughts about getting the car running later this year, but much more likely next.

[Svtfreak]

Today, I made a bracket for the jumper cables/charger. I wanted something accessible even if out one a date and dressed nice, something I wouldn’t get filthy getting to and mess up my interior. So I put it under the back. Made a bracket for it with a grommeted hole (use protection yall!). On final sssembky I’ll glue a piece of rubber above it to prevent grounding the positive clamp by accident.


The car is still in the air here, so I hope it’s less noticeable down on the ground. I just realized that I forgot to look when I put it down lol


And I put it down on her own 4 feet again.

[progmgr1]

Sorry for the confusion, but I'm using the stock Ford shifter that came with the 2017 Power Pack - not the Lokar unit. As far as I can tell, my shifter doesn't have a Sport Shift capability. Maybe Ford used paddle shifters that year? In any case, this isn't an issue I'm looking into and I can't offer any insights.

Keith HR #894

[Alan_C]

Keith: Thanks for the reply. In the 2017 GT I used for my drivetrain donor, the vehicle had paddle shifters.
I am using the Lokar sport shifter and purchased the Power by the Hour kit to add three wires to indicate sport mode, shift up, and shift down inputs. So once I have it all wired correctly, I remain hopeful that I can get the sport mode to work directly with the PCM or via reprogramming.

[Svtfreak]

Sorry, Keith. I though you had.

The 2017 mustang shifter should go into sport position. It was one step past drive. I wonder who I spoke to who was trying to make It work with the lokar though.

Alan, the kit from pbh only allows you to take over manually for a bit. It is the same as leaving a 17 mustang in drive (not shifting to sport mode), and using the paddle shifters. It will take back over after a few seconds, and the throttle and shifting maps do not change. Sport mode was entered by shifting the gear selector one step past drive. This moved the trans lever into another drive (basically). That sends a signal to the ecu that then changed throttle and shifting characteristics, and, then, if you shifted manually, it would stay in manual mode until taken out of sport mode. That whole scheme is what I am told by FRPP that the controls pack can’t do. I don’t remember if the trans has the sport mode position on it but will be checking that later. I thought about trying to change the length of the arm on the trans to give more movement to allow me to try to get the lokar to get the extra position then see if FRPP is right about the ecu not having a sport mode function built into it. That said, the wire kit you have (same as I have) does allow you to shift it much like paddles (nothing saying you can’t use paddles and switches on the wheel, I’m just using the lokar cause its there and looks cool). It’ll just take back over after a little bit. From driving my 2015 mustangs, it’s a very useful function. I used to downshift using the paddle to pass other cars quite frequently. Down shift, start passing and let the computer take back over for upshifts. I still do it in my gt500 but it is programmed a little different and more aggressive.

If you are using a donor computer out of a 2015+ mustang, then it will def have the full sport mode function in it. But you still have to get the trans lever input shaft into the correct position. One step past the drive spot. But then you also wouldn’t need the pbh kit, but you’d need to find the right wires in the donor harness to connect to whatever switches you use for the shifting.

Edit: sorry Alan. I just saw the reply above my update on my car. I never caught, are you using a controls pack ecu and harness or a donor? If I didn’t make sense above, we can chat on phone one day. I’m not always good at conveying things lol.

[Alan_C]

I am using the PCM supplied with the controls pack. Although I have the original PCM from the donor car, the fuel system config and other required nannys do not make its use an option.
I installed and adjusted the Lokar cable linkage prior to starting body and paint. I spent about an hour getting the full range of travel for the shifter to hit all the gear positions from Park to Drive. The Lokar has a position for sport where it the shifter is moved over providing access to the shift up and shift down detents.
It seems like it is all there, but don't know why Ford skimmed on the sport mode programming for the controls pack. I will just have to hope that there is a solution when I have the car up and running.

[Svtfreak]

I am using the PCM supplied with the controls pack. Although I have the original PCM from the donor car, the fuel system config and other required nannys do not make its use an option.
I installed and adjusted the Lokar cable linkage prior to starting body and paint. I spent about an hour getting the full range of travel for the shifter to hit all the gear positions from Park to Drive. The Lokar has a position for sport where it the shifter is moved over providing access to the shift up and shift down detents.
It seems like it is all there, but don't know why Ford skimmed on the sport mode programming for the controls pack. I will just have to hope that there is a solution when I have the car up and running.

I’ll be anxiously awaiting your findings in that.

[Svtfreak]

Got headlights done today. After fighting with ffr’s recommended method for several hours and just not being happy with it, I made my own. I had trouble getting the body interface just right with spacers. The angles didn’t match up, and I just couldn’t get it to match up. Combined with how I couldn’t access the space between the metal mount and the body because of my new flanges due to cutting the side panel, I made my own method. The headlight mount now doesn’t touch the body. I made a spacer that sets the bucket the right distance from the metal mount. The rubber “bushing” I made between the bucket trim and the body squished just enough to take up the space there, so it now has minimal pressure on the body panel itself.



Enlarged the hole in the body for the new longer spacer to go through it.


The stack against the body panel.


The finished product. Yeah I know she’s cross eyed right now lol

[Svtfreak]

Got the shop all cleaned out today, blew dust off all the perlins, swept and washed the floor.

[RoadRacer]

Got the shop all cleaned out today, blew dust off all the perlins, swept and washed the floor.

Now that's a nice size shop! And a driveway! dreaming..

[Svtfreak]

Now that's a nice size shop! And a driveway! dreaming..

Haha! Yes I do enjoy my shop. Although it’s not big enough! It’s 24x30 mueller. Perfect for 2 cars. Really good for just one project but I’m making do storing my cobra in there and building the 33. I wish it was 36x30. The driveway is a result of placement. So I ended up with a long one to connect to the neighbors driveway across the back of my property. I do want to add a cover out front of my shop to give me a shaded place to wash cars, work outside when needed.

[Alan_C]

Ah garage space, like software, you fill the available space and then want more.
Just submitted docs for permit on my garage expansion. Adding 24x42 (1008 sq. ft.) expansion next to existing 1100 sq. ft. attached garage. I have one more build in mind after this one is done in 2 years.

[Svtfreak]

Great plans, Alan! That’ll be a nice addition.

Installed a couple aluminum panels today and predrilled everything. The trunk and the door sills. I also did the trunk floor hole covers. Still have a couple small ones to do. Finding little stuff to do before I take it apart. And, mostly, spending time with my youngest today.



Really just posting to show off this knucklehead. He had a blast learning how to use the “ppssher” (think the sound the air rivet gun makes) and the “fart sound hole maker” (think air drill) lol.

[progmgr1]

Now if you can just get him interested in block sanding you'll be set to finally finish that car. Glad to see you're still making progress.

Keith HR #894

[Svtfreak]

Now if you can just get him interested in block sanding you'll be set to finally finish that car. Glad to see you're still making progress.

Keith HR #894

Haha! Yeah, I’m not ready for that. This boy is rough. I’ll turn my back and he’ll have sanded the whole car down to the cement! He’s sumthin’. I wonder where he gets it…..

Me too, Keith. I lost motivation for a bit but found it again. Things got slow due to life and just not feeling it. But, boy am I feeling it now. lol. Taking the wife to Disney this week (no kids!) and, assuming i don’t come up with anything else needing done, I’ll be starting disassembly just a couple days after we get home. After I make an adjuster for the area rear of the cockpit to support that body across in front of the trunk anyway.

[33fromSD]

Haha! Yeah, I’m not ready for that. This boy is rough. I’ll turn my back and he’ll have sanded the whole car down to the cement! He’s sumthin’. I wonder where he gets it…..

Me too, Keith. I lost motivation for a bit but found it again. Things got slow due to life and just not feeling it. But, boy am I feeling it now. lol. Taking the wife to Disney this week (no kids!) and, assuming i don’t come up with anything else needing done, I’ll be starting disassembly just a couple days after we get home. After I make an adjuster for the area rear of the cockpit to support that body across in front of the trunk anyway.

My wife goes to Disney all the time by herself (from SoDak) but her and I get down there every Fall for food & wine festival, also no kids. Of course our kids are all grown up now maybe someday we'll have grand kids to take but for now, I have to say I enjoy Disney a whole lot more now without kids then I did when we took the kids.

Jim

[Svtfreak]

My wife goes to Disney all the time by herself (from SoDak) but her and I get down there every Fall for food & wine festival, also no kids. Of course our kids are all grown up now maybe someday we'll have grand kids to take but for now, I have to say I enjoy Disney a whole lot more now without kids then I did when we took the kids.

Jim

I am absolutely with you on that. We took the kids a little over a year ago. My 15 year old is so dadgum hard headed and can’t behave he made it nearly miserable. I have no plans to take him back lol. That’s one reason we going. It’s the start of the food and wine and we staying at boardwalk to walk in through the back. Gonna be a blast. And, we chase the food. They really make it easy with the celiacs that my wife has for her to enjoy good meals. She got us royal table, be our guest, the new space 2020 and a few other good ones. Beaches and cream even, I wanted that one lol. It really is fun to be an adult and just let the magic take over. But, I also know it’s not for everyone. I’ve told some of my guys at work before they left that it wouldn’t be their thing, but give them tips on how to still enjoy it knowing their personalities. My wife says we should be Disney travel agents. Problem is, I don’t like dealing with entitled people. I’d end up getting fired lol!

[GoDadGo]

SVT,

I'm Glad You Are Back In High-Gear!!
Looking Good Fellow Swamp-Lander, Looking Good!

Steve

[Svtfreak]

SVT,

I'm Glad You Are Back In High-Gear!!
Looking Good Fellow Swamp-Lander, Looking Good!

Steve

Thanks Steve!! Whew, ain’t it been hot? I ain’t supposed to know what a chicken wang feels like in an air fryer.

Made a brace for the rear deck today. Here it is holding up to the back side. Can’t mount it till the body is off.


A few pics I grabbed before I started taking stuff off it.





There probably won’t be many updates as I take it apart. Will be posting occasionally then more when I start reassembly.

[Svtfreak]

Gonna share a little trick. I did this on the big hinge mounts and it worked real well so I’m trying it also on the door hinge parts inside the door. After everthing was good and lined up, I drilled and tapped two holes through the parts and ran a long bolt through. Upon reassembly after paint (or whatever reason it gets taken apart) you can get everything back close and run the bolts through and it should bring everything back to real close to where it belongs. Keep in mind, though, that any coating between the parts might have to be cleaned off for threads to line up right. Haven’t gotten that far yet. Maybe just drilling and using a pin might be a better ticket, like Knifemakers use to test then assemble knives.

[Alan_C]

I agree locater pins/screws are the ticket for quicker reinstallation after painting. I had seen several times the use of a 1/8" holes used for this purpose. Your comment on the need to chase the threads after painting is a good one. I just spent hours getting my door hinges positioned for good door alignment. Given all the effort it took to get the doors positioned, I would hate to go through all of that again with fresh paint on the car. I remember the trick we were taught at Build School to use #30 drill bits over 1/8" size as they allowed the rivets to be inserted more easily. That made me think that I will likely drill my locater holes with the #30 bit and then use 1/8" rod for the locater holes. Maybe this will eliminate the need to chase the holes after painting before assembly.

[Svtfreak]

I agree locater pins/screws are the ticket for quicker reinstallation after painting. I had seen several times the use of a 1/8" holes used for this purpose. Your comment on the need to chase the threads after painting is a good one. I just spent hours getting my door hinges positioned for good door alignment. Given all the effort it took to get the doors positioned, I would hate to go through all of that again with fresh paint on the car. I remember the trick we were taught at Build School to use #30 drill bits over 1/8" size as they allowed the rivets to be inserted more easily. That made me think that I will likely drill my locater holes with the #30 bit and then use 1/8" rod for the locater holes. Maybe this will eliminate the need to chase the holes after painting before assembly.

Very good thinking Alan! I threaded mine but a pin would work. My first thought was “what keeps the pin from falling out?” Then I thought “hey stupid, just bend the ends over once inserted”. But I had already threaded mine so bolts it is. Lol. I may switch to pins on the last few I need to do. Trunk mounts, hood brackets and radiator brackets is ones I have left to do.

[Alan_C]

There are many ways to skin the cat. After you are done, please report back on how it went for those who follow and are looking for ideas.

[Svtfreak]

There are many ways to skin the cat. After you are done, please report back on how it went for those who follow and are looking for ideas.

Surely will when that time comes.

Meanwhile….

Disassembly is progressing. Slowly. But, getting there. Decided to start blasting and painting some of the stuff I’ll be painting just for corrosion prevention. But, here it is. The first parts painted!

[Svtfreak]

All her guts are showing!


To keep things straight, I’m stamping the parts D and P and making notes on the baggies that stuffs going in.

[Svtfreak]

50something work hours later, some of that fixing up loose ends, it’s apart!

[Alan_C]

Sometimes progress looks like just the opposite. I imagine that you will be sending the frame out for powder coat soon. Once it is back, then the real fun begins as you assemble for what should be the last time.
Although not a FF, my Mustang restomod is approaching the same stage you are in. The last of my body panels have been welded on. I received a Autotwirler body cart Monday that I need to paint as it is bare metal. Then all the suspension comes off the body so that it can be put on the body cart. Then the fun begins trying to fit the fenders and hood. Lots of work ahead, but it is progress toward body and paint.
Keep the posts coming as I am really looking forward to seeing your car done and on the road.

[Svtfreak]

Sometimes progress looks like just the opposite. I imagine that you will be sending the frame out for powder coat soon. Once it is back, then the real fun begins as you assemble for what should be the last time.
Although not a FF, my Mustang restomod is approaching the same stage you are in. The last of my body panels have been welded on. I received a Autotwirler body cart Monday that I need to paint as it is bare metal. Then all the suspension comes off the body so that it can be put on the body cart. Then the fun begins trying to fit the fenders and hood. Lots of work ahead, but it is progress toward body and paint.
Keep the posts coming as I am really looking forward to seeing your car done and on the road.

That’s a cool project you got. I love restomods. And you’re exactly right. Now the fun begins lol.

Got it back from powder coat today. Now I have to bring the small parts to another coater and match the color, and begin some painting of parts. Not the body yet. Still a bit before some serious reassembly will start.

[Alan_C]

Boy what a transformation as the powder coating looks great!

[GoDadGo]

SVT,

Did you bring it to Anode Inc, which is over here in Slidell, to have it done?

https://www.anodeinc.com/

Just wondering because that's the only shop that I know of that can handle larger items.

Steve

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Lots done today on my first real full day able to work on her!

Finished the firewall with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Installed the steering column and shaft, the power steering unit but probably have to reclock it later.
........

I have to ask what is the brand and type of power steering unit is that??

[Svtfreak]

Boy what a transformation as the powder coating looks great!

No doubt there!

SVT,

Did you bring it to Anode Inc, which is over here in Slidell, to have it done?

https://www.anodeinc.com/

Just wondering because that's the only shop that I know of that can handle larger items.

Steve

No sir. I brought it to Baton Rouge powder coating. Their oven is big enough. The small guy that is going to do most of my coatings oven was 6” too short. Not sure he could have handled it anyway. He’s 80!

I have to ask what is the brand and type of power steering unit is that??

That’s the optional one for gen 1 from FFR. Electrasteer. If you need more info, I’ll have to go find the paperwork. But it was the FFR supplied one.

I put the fist parts in the frame today. Before they got lost lol! The rear body mount sheet metal nuts.


Then, I cleaned out all that trashy dot 5 brake fluid to prep for normal stuff. Lots of parts. Getting new calipers so I didn’t bother with them.


I am currently waiting on more parts to be powder coated and the powder to get here. I had to match the product one place used with another brand. And they actually have one that is nearly indistinguishable. So I have that coming. Gonna be a lot of waiting over the next couple months for powder coating, a couple peices to paint, and just not in a big hurry. I’m about to invest in a decent gun and teach myself to paint.

[Svtfreak]

Another batch back! All of the suspension that’s getting done is done. Had to wait on bringing my big pile of aluminum to be done for now. Probably right after the first of the year. Had some unexpected expenses come up and I’d rather not dip into savings. So I’ll take a little delay. But, tomorrow, I can get started on some real reassembly!

[Svtfreak]

Reassembly has begun. Rear end housing is hung.