818 Front Outer CV Joint Removal

[Lee Baldwin]

I’m building my 818c and I am working on the front suspension and I cannot separate the axle from the front CV joint on the WRX donor parts. I followed the instructions on page 56 of the build manual but cannot “tap” the CV joint off. I have even used a mini sledge hammer. Does anyone have any other tricks to separate the axle from the CV joint? I have tried both CV Joint / axle combinations and I am getting the same result just a lot of banging. I asked FFR technical support and the suggestion was to use some professional penetrating oil on the splines but the axle has some play in the CV joint so not sure what the penetrating oil would accomplish.

I actually looked if I could buy just the CV joint assembly but looks like the axles are always attached.

[Neeraj Ahluwalia]

Ran into the exact same issue you had. Here's how I solved it:
There is a c clip hidden inside the cv joint. We want that to be centered. Hold the axle vertically with the outer joint pointing up. Tap with a hammer on the top of the outer joint (hitting it in towards the axle). This will allow that c clip to settle.

Next put axle in a vice. Make sure the cv joint is pointed straight. Grab yourself a chisel. Position the chisel on the cv joint as close to the center of the axle as you can (it'll be on the inner race). In one fell swoop, hit the chisel as hard as you can. The joint should come off. If you still have troubles, repeat the process (straighten the joint and hit it backwards and try again).

[RPGs818SNA]

What worked for me was to clamp a couple of 2x6 pieces around the axle just below the CV joint. I then placed the 2x6s atop a couple of 2x4s, lifted the assembly about a foot, and then pushed it down to the floor. The axle became the hammer and pulled itself free from the CV joint. Incidentally, I bought rear axles from FFR, saving a ton of messy work.

CV joint removal.jpg

Good luck,
RPG

[Hobby Racer]

It's been post here before but the pipe trick is the easiest method.

[Mark Eaton]

This worked for me.



and here is my post

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post442035

[idf]

It's been post here before but the pipe trick is the easiest method.

Worked for me just like in the video.

[RPGs818SNA]

axle with both joints.jpg

The pipe solution is simple and effective as long as there is only one CV joint on the axle. My front axle had both the inner and outer joint attached, and, per the FFR manual, only the outer joint needed to be removed. My 2x4 solution was inspired by the pipe solution, using the axle as the “hammer”. However, it’s wide enough to work when both CV joints are still attached to the axle.

I like the air hammer and chisel approach too.

RPG

[Shawn818c]

The aftermarket CV axles are much harder to disassemble, you might have to do some cutting to get it apart. OEM axles, the cups are normally painted green. Non-OEM aren't painted from what I've seen.

[Lee Baldwin]

Thanks to everyone for posting. I tried the pipe trick but that pesky snap ring would not let go so I resorted to cutting the ball bearing cage 4 times with a cut off wheel and chiseling the cage out and then the axle came right out. That took about an hour for the 1st one then 20 minutes for the second one. My air hammer was broken so just used a cold chisel and hammer... I bought the rear axle/cv joints from FFR and I am very happy that I did......