CV2065 MKIV Roadster Build Thread #2

[cc2Arider]

"Thinking about an angled cover that I can put over the top of the panel in the event of moisture getting in or the MCs leaking so that it drains away but haven't fabricated anything yet."

I was thinking about making something like that, too if I decide to keep my fuseblock in the standard location. I like GoDadGo's approach (Passenger-side), but I also have the heater box and haven't checked all the fitment issues yet. Then there's a small possibility to mount in a central location since I'm going to make a glovebox/cubby like John Ibele

Looking good!

Craig C

[edwardb]

I played around trying to make a cover over the fuse panel a couple builds ago. It's a busy place and gave up after I decided my solution likely wouldn't help if one of the MC's decided to leak. Getting it actually sealed wasn't successful and decided even deflecting would eventually find the fuse panel. Brake fluid is just plain evil... Maybe you're more creative (or patient) than me. Fortunately, multiple builds with the MC's above the fuse panel and no brake fluid leaks to date. Now water infiltration from the windshield posts hitting the fuse panel? I was a slow learner on that one. Two failed turn signal flashers later decided I needed to seal around the posts. Problem solved.

[cv2065]

I Now water infiltration from the windshield posts hitting the fuse panel? I was a slow learner on that one. Two failed turn signal flashers later decided I needed to seal around the posts. Problem solved.

Thanks Paul. Didn’t think about that one. I’ll give it a go and see what evolves.

[Higgybulin]

Too hot to work down there or what?!!

[cv2065]

Too hot to work down there or what?!!

I'm up to 2 clothes changes a day in the garage. When I get to 3, then I know I'm into the true Summer.

[cv2065]

I've had these run for a bit but just haven't updated. I still have the short feed line to filter to complete for fuel, but the long runs are done. I used 8AN hoses and fittings and found that all PTFE hoses are not created equal. The ones that I received from Hot Rod Hoses looked great, but they were extremely stiff and a bit harder to wield when navigating corners. I bought some from ANPlumbing.com and wow what a difference. They use the PTFE Pro Plus hoses from XRP, and they are super flexible. Bought them in the XM Monofilament so that they fit the blacked out look I'm going for. I used SS single and double Helix line clamps from Summit (HLT-12469 and HLI-12470). Pricey, but look great and well made. My lines were about 1.5" longer than I actually needed, so had to get creative but wasn't that big of a deal.

Running from the regulator:


Along the 4" tube:


Up the Side:


Up the Side:


Filter and Return:

[cv2065]

Again, have had these done for some time. I like to use the pre-flared lengths from Advance Auto. They have the 3/16" Poly Armor that are steel lines with a protective coatings over them. Look great and easy to bend. One has to be creative when working with the fixed lengths as one miscalculation in length, and it's time for another $10 line.

Rears:
From the box:


Down the box:


Along the 4" Tube


Up the frame:


Across the Rear:

[cv2065]

Again, used the 3/16" pre-made lines. The front is a little more challenging in this regard as there are more curves, but with a little planning, can be done. I won't be winning any awards, but I think it came out nicely and functional.

From the box:


Along the Frame:


Around the Front:


Along the X-Member:


And to the End:

[cv2065]

Ah, one of my favorite parts, the carbon fiber dash. Another one mistake and shell out the $$$ activity! The drill press really earned its purchase price with the one. I was able to get every bit of the dash underneath when cutting with the 6 different sizes of hole saws. As others have said, the fine CF dust can get everywhere, including your lungs, so I did use a respirator and also cleaned up with my shop vac after each cut. Bought my drill press off Facebook marketplace for $150 new. What a deal!

I bought custom gauges from Speedhut. I worked directly with one of their designers. The service is free and they are very patient to give you exactly what you want. After about 4 proofs, we were good to go. I'm going for a red/black Roush theme for the car, and Speedhut did not disappoint. I also went with oversized gauges instead of the standard FFR. That would be 4.5" gauges for the Speedo and Tach, as well as 2 5/8" gauges for the others. Shout out to Michael Craven (aka Hacksaw) for that idea.

In order to get my holes right, I ordered some metal discs off of Etsy in the exact sizes of the gauges faces and had a 1/8" hole put into the middle of each disk. Covered the dash in blue tape, aligned the discs the way that I wanted them and dotted the mid-point. Used that as my starting point with the hole saws and came out great. I buffered out 3/4" from the top of the dash to give me plenty of room after the initial fitting to the hoop. The larger gauges need some planning.

Not a lot of info out there yet for the CF dash, so winging it a little based on what I could find. When level, the dash is a little uneven to the hoop, especially on the far sides. I started by aligning the middle of the dash with the middle top of the hoop. The right side aligned about 3/16" under the tube, but the driver side was higher when the dash was level. I drew a line on the back of the dash where it exceeded the top of the hoop and measured 3/4" from that line which is where my gauges on that side started. Then I trimmed a little off the top right to level it out a bit. Came out nicely. Bottom of the dash was ~38.5" from the floor, side to side and the glove box butts up against the support, so can't go any further to the driver's side. That makes it really close to a vertical alignment with the trans tunnel. I think with every carbon fiber dash, there is a spot mid drivers side that doesn't align with the hoop like the rest of the dash. Seems to be the same for most everyone.

Measuring:


Drilling:


Hoop Fitting:






I also notched out a small area on the passenger side as it conflicted with the door hinge:



Test fit the gauges and am loving the look! Still need to powder coat the key bezels and add the turn signal mod, which I decided to get from Frank at i.e.427. I will have to say that the ignition key bezel that I received from FFR was a bit disappointing. I upgraded with one from Ron Francis. Once the bezel is powder coated black, RF includes a colored trim ring, which in this case will be red. All in the details!

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9346.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bou nds][/URL]

[cv2065]

Engine has been here for a couple of months and decided to de-crate it to save some room in the garage. My cherry picker legs could not get around the pallet, so had to sawzall the corners off to make some room. Engine is a beauty! I'll be powder coating the Roush logo'd area of the air cleaner and valve covers red. The valve covers are a two piece design, where the decorative areas unscrew from the valve cover, so I don't need to take the entire thing off when I send it out for PC. Very cool!

[Nigel Allen]

I up to 2 clothes changes a day in the garage. When I get to 3, then I know I'm into the true Summer.

"Sweating like a gypsy with a mortgage"

[cv2065]

Seats did show up! Yay! But they had headrests.. Don't get me wrong, the headrests are a work of art, but they don't go with my build and one rollbar. So, reached out to Rob at Intatrim and he's making me a new set. Honest mix up and he's making it right.

I do have these and am helping him sell, so if anyone is interested, just hit me up! They are really nice marine upholstery with Cobra logo in the headrests. Black and Red diamond stitching. First picture is of the seat and second/third of the actual headrests. All still in shrinkwrap in the box.







All I've got for now. I do need to revise a couple of things. One, the brake lines at the front of the car need 90 degree fittings. I had already purchased these but forgot to put them in place and the tires will rub, so I'll need to install and re-bleed the front end. Speaking of which, I'm using this vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. Best $99 I've spent in a long time. 5 minute bleed on each corner with no mess. In case anyone is interested:

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneuma...kit-57057.html

I am also fitting my wheels and it turns out that the studs I had pressed in at the local machine shop, one of the hubs has a flaw and the stud is not completely straight. Wish I had known this before as I'm going to have to tear down the rear passenger side and pull the hub.

[Blitzboy54]

Those gauges are sick.

[Blitzboy54]

It’s funny you were just ahead of me the first time and now seem to be right about the same place the second time. I went with gloss black in the engine bay in my first one. I was pleasantly surprised how it held up. You know how hard a dark car is to keep clean. It obviously gets dusty but all the road grime blends in.

Lookin good man. Between you and me your first car had more design influence on my build than any other I followed. Maybe by a lot.

Your build is looking really clean so far.

[cv2065]

It’s funny you were just ahead of me the first time and now seem to be right about the same place the second time. I went with gloss black in the engine bay in my first one. I was pleasantly surprised how it held up. You know how hard a dark car is to keep clean. It obviously gets dusty but all the road grime blends in.

Lookin good man. Between you and me your first car had more design influence on my build than any other I followed. Maybe by a lot.

Your build is looking really clean so far.

Thanks man! I'm sure I've looked at your build thread many times as well. Trying to step this one up another notch. I thought about doing a hammered look but settled back on the gloss. Just have to be extra careful not to scratch it! Glad to see that you are venturing out again. I look forward to watching your build as well. I just have to get better at updating this thread.

[Higgybulin]

Did you get to a final decsion on the power rack tie rods? I see someone else is asking about shorting the inners on a replacement they got from FF.
Higgy