R.Spec's Gt35r Ej25 Supercar Killer

[Hindsight]

Measure pedal bracket holes and frame holes.... All Measurments that you think will detail what you have to work with. I will then measure mine and post it too. Then we can see if your frame or pedal cluster is the issue. Is your pedal cluster from a JDM? does it seem straight? What year and model donor? Take a pic of the pedal mount bracket bolted to frame without the cluster in the way.

[NBinSD]

Mine looked pretty similar. I put the four button heads in and left them a little loose, then put nuts on the clutch studs, then used some persuasion to line up the top three frame bolts.

[Tamra]

The button head screws called out in the manual are much smaller than the holes so they will fit through even though they are slightly offset. I would guess there are some differences between the Subaru years so they left the holes a little large to compensate. They snug up just fine.

[Hindsight]

Now that Tamra mentions that, I took another look at your pictures and I think she nailed it. I was having a hard time seeing what you were talking about in the pics because I didn't see anything that looked to be a problem so I assumed there was something I was missing. As she mentioned, those bolts are small and will fit in there (at the steering mount location). My pedal cluster didn't hit the bracket either.... it was about 1/4" away. Tightening the bolts down pulled it up tight with the frame bracket. I can't tell from the pics though, if the four bolt holes that hold the pedal cluster to the frame bracket are badly misaligned but if they are not, I'd say you don't have an issue here.

[R.Spec]

Got some progress!!!

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This can't be right. Doesn't the bolt look a little bent? I measured the spacers thought o make sure I had the right ones. Also the 1.5" spacer that goes above this for the brace is too big. I am just going to grind it down to get it to fit.
20150312_224053.jpg

[xxguitarist]

I think you're just seeing the spherical bearing in the end of the shock being angled.

[R.Spec]

I think you're just seeing the spherical bearing in the end of the shock being angled.

Look at the gap on the outer part of the right spacer, vs the inner.

[TouchStone]

This can't be right. Doesn't the bolt look a little bent? I measured the spacers thought o make sure I had the right ones. Also the 1.5" spacer that goes above this for the brace is too big. I am just going to grind it down to get it to fit.

The spacers look a little small to me. What did you measure the gap as versus the total length of spacers and shock?

I have the same issue with the above 1.5". I plan on doing the same thing, grind to fit.

[R.Spec]

The spacers look a little small to me. What did you measure the gap as versus the total length of spacers and shock?

I have the same issue with the above 1.5". I plan on doing the same thing, grind to fit.

I will have to measure today. The manual calls for a 0.43 and a 0.32 spacer. It fit better with two 0.375 spacers.

[TouchStone]

If the space is small enough (<~0.05in) I would probably just torque the bolt and see if the bracket flexes to fit. I dont think FFR welded thoes plates perfectly parallel.

[Scargo]

My take on it would be that it is an either/or sitchiashun of the brackets not being parallel and/or the spacer ends not being square. They are not the finest spacers in the world. Rough-cut and not de-burred.
You can get these from Jegs, Amazon, etc. in steel or aluminum for $5~$8 a pair.
31xY9qpLMIL.jpg
If the spacers are square I'd just tighten it till the ears squish down. No big deal.
Fun to have a roller, eh?

[R.Spec]

Got it all figured out. Now I am onto the throttle cable. Should i do the big hole little hole slot trick like most people?

F5 forgot to send the manual brake pushrod so that's on its way so I can get the brakes hooked up. Then I am going to run all the lines for that. The fuel system is after that. Then Coolant.

Also I through some 18x9.5" wheels on it for now. The wheels hit at one full lock. But they are 245/40 r18 tires. So I think if I get 255/30/r18 they might not hit as soon and I could get a little more steering wheel turn. maybe 1 1/4 lock, which should be enough. Has anyone notched the frame or aluminum in the front for clearance?

Enjoy some pics

[Scargo]

If you not familiar with the calculators and tire specs that are available:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_tire/tire.php
http://www.alloywheels.com/Tyre_Calculator
http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-comparison/
Find the specific tire that you wish to use and see if it will work based on what you have tried.
Except for racing tires, most tires are made to a common standard.
Also, pay attention to what people have posted in the Wheel and Tire Thread!

I've also suggested elsewhere that you can do a cardboard or Luan silhouette of a wheel/tire combo and rotate it around, much like they do to see if caliper/wheel combos work.
I am very concerned by the amount of Heim joint thread that you have showing on the arms in the rear. Is that with a rough adjustment of the suspension?

[R.Spec]

Fixed images

[Hindsight]

Looking good. What offset are those wheels?

[R.Spec]

Looking good. What offset are those wheels?

I am gonna take a shot in the dark and say +38. Ill check when i get to work today. I just picked up a set of 17x7 wheels which i think I will throw on my daily. Which means I have my 17x8 enkei rpf1's that I can use on this. However. The wheel weight on the barrell of my rpf1 rubs on my stoptech brakes. sooo idk.

[R.Spec]

I am very concerned by the amount of Heim joint thread that you have showing on the arms in the rear. Is that with a rough adjustment of the suspension?

It seems as though that's how much I need to get a 0 or -1 camber amount. Anything more and it's ridiculously cambered. Why could this be? As far as the front heim joint, that is what I used to roughly adjust toe and camber. And I think I got it close. I was going to bring it to a professional race alignment and wheel balance place to dial it all in.

[Hindsight]

Thanks for the offset. I'm assuming those are Rota Grids. Some people like to be critical of Rota's but from all the racing success they have (and so many people running them on the street), I'm a fan. Good value, and they are one of the few manufacturers who make a good selection in the pattern/size/offset we need. Rotas are on my short list along with Enkei.

I have the a lot of thread showing on my heim joints as well. I think I posted about it in my build thread and someone mentioned it was the same for them.

[Scargo]

Those swedged tubes are cheap. I needed to go up an inch on mine. I got these Allstar Performance ALL57158 Steel Tube, 5/8" x 7/8" O.D., 7" from Amazon for $10.17 each, Prime Member. Black, too!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Those swedged tubes are cheap. I needed to go up an inch on mine. I got these Allstar Performance ALL57158 Steel Tube, 5/8" x 7/8" O.D., 7" from Amazon for $10.17 each, Prime Member. Black, too!

I also bump up to 7" upper lateral link tubes. Here is a picture of one installed.
tubes.jpg

[Hindsight]

Good tip thanks Scargo and Bob! Had no idea they were so common and cheap.

[R.Spec]

Don't really know what to do here. Thinking about making a plate on the aluminum side with studs welded to it to hold the brake master cylinder. Suggestions?

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[Hindsight]

Or buy this one:
Brake master cylinder relocator
http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

Details of the install are on my build thread.

[R.Spec]

Or buy this one:
Brake master cylinder relocator
http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

Details of the install are on my build thread.

Emailed!

[metalmaker12]

Got it all figured out. Now I am onto the throttle cable. Should i do the big hole little hole slot trick like most people?

F5 forgot to send the manual brake pushrod so that's on its way so I can get the brakes hooked up. Then I am going to run all the lines for that. The fuel system is after that. Then Coolant.



Also I through some 18x9.5" wheels on it for now. The wheels hit at one full lock. But they are 245/40 r18 tires. So I think if I get 255/30/r18 they might not hit as soon and I could get a little more steering wheel turn. maybe 1 1/4 lock, which should be enough. Has anyone notched the frame or aluminum in the front for clearance?

Enjoy some pics

I have rack spacers to correct your tire rubbing. Pm me if you want them sent to you.

Ps your going to need a set of adjustable rear links to get your alinmebt even close.

Remember many have been building these cars and doing great jobs, but very few have them on the road,aligned, all sorted, titled and registered. Also many important tips have been lost in the forum..... Yes this is also motivation for many of you that need to get your cars completed so we can have driving threads to.

[R.Spec]

Haven't posted in awhile. Been really busy at the shop with customer cars and moving in these last couple months, breaking up with my girlfriend, turning 21 etc.

Either way some of my parts showed up today! Manley H-Tuff Rods and King Coated bearings! As well as some minor stoptech rear braided lines. Saving more money for my pistons, clutch, and valvetrain springs!

I got most all of my lines ran, need to rivet them onto the frame. Also need to run the coolant lines, I have been struggling getting the subaru oem hose over the corrugated tubing. I am going to oreillys to try and find larger hoses that fit over easier. Here are a couple pictures!

[Scargo]

Guys here on the forum have talked about all kinds of lubricants and warming of the rubber to help with the hose's tight fit. Another possibility might be the "blow the grip onto the handlebar" trick which would mean you use air pressure to inflate the hose while you push it on. Would require some stoppers, possible pinching the hose on one end or something similar to trap the pressure. Just a thought since it works so well for installing sleeves and grips on bicycle handlebars.

[Hindsight]

My advice would be to boil the end of the hose in water before you install it. Lubricate the inside with some 100% coolant right before sliding it on. Haven't gotten that far yet myself though.

[Tamra]

We bought the Gates OEM replacement radiator hoses. They went on without any special treatment (just some rubbing alcohol on the inside during install). Obviously, they should be a tight fit to not leak, but it wasn't excessively tight.

[xxguitarist]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

[R.Spec]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

ordered. My oreilly's is bringing it to my shop right now. We will see if you are right

[R.Spec]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

I basically love you! Went on like butter!

[R.Spec]

Got my motor fully assembled. Excited to drop it in. Deciding if I want to just break it in with the td04 or the 35r

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[matteo92065]

Got my motor fully assembled. Excited to drop it in.

That does not look fully assembled. It looks like its about 7 hours short of fully assembled. The pulleys, timing belt, intake, covers (oops, those needed to go on before belt), wire harness, sensors, water pump, and all the other little bits that require you to remove stuff that you just installed minutes ago.

Have you figured out what to do with your front tire rub?

[longislandwrx]

That does not look fully assembled. It looks like its about 7 hours short of fully assembled. The pulleys, timing belt, intake, covers (oops, those needed to go on before belt), wire harness, sensors, water pump, and all the other little bits that require you to remove stuff that you just installed minutes ago.

Have you figured out what to do with your front tire rub?

ok mr grumpy pants, maybe that's not a current picture.

[matteo92065]

yeah, I reread my post. Sorry it came across that way. I certainly didn't want it to. It was more of a kidding around tone (in my head) when I wrote it.
I thought R.Spec might have been kidding around with us too.

[Scargo]

It looks skinny.. In need of a good meal.

[R.Spec]

yeah, I reread my post. Sorry it came across that way. I certainly didn't want it to. It was more of a kidding around tone (in my head) when I wrote it.
I thought R.Spec might have been kidding around with us too.

I mostly meant that the longblock was assembled. I work on subarus for a living and we build so many motors, once it gets to the longblock stage, everything goes so quick for us, so I just said it was fully assembled. It won't take me long to throw the accessories, fuel rails, intake mani on. I did wrinkle black paint my tgvs and intake manifold though! Looks so good. And deleted my tgv's. Yippeee!!!!

motor1.jpg

[R.Spec]

Finished my tranny conversion!

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[carbon fiber]

Finished my tranny conversion!

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We're still talking about cars right?! Just kidding, couldn't resist. Your build is coming along nicely. I'm a big fan of black wrinkle paint, it'll be a clean look on the intake.