Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[Automan]

Hey Paul, Where did you locate the split for the rubber trim. On the center in the top or the center in the bottom between the wipers. I cant tell its so nicely done.

Nelson

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, Where did you locate the split for the rubber trim. On the center in the top or the center in the bottom between the wipers. I cant tell its so nicely done.

Nelson

Bottom center. Less noticeable than the top and better for sealing if that matters. At least that was my thinking. Started with a clean straight cut. Then installed all the way around and made another clean straight cut leaving it just slightly long. Not a lot, but a little to compress the joint just a bit. Got lucky and turned out pretty well. Used the same technique on the side window molding.

[edwardb]

Big day today. I literally crossed off the last items from my punch list. I’ll take one last pass at detailing under the hood for Autorama (still finding remnants from the time at the paint shop…) and probably smear some wax on the body. Then when the weather warms up, need to charge the A/C. Planning to have another learning experience with that. But I have nothing else on my list and no leftover parts in the basement. My plan is to take a bunch of pictures and probably a walkaround video at Autorama. Then will close out this build thread. I’ll start the title and license process after that, and it should be ready to drive when the weather changes. Looking outside at the snow coming down right now, seems that could be a while. But the time will come. So, here are some of the final details completed.

No pictures, but I noticed not long after receiving them that the acrylic in the side windows had rough unfinished edges. Looks like cut with a router or CNC and pretty much left as is. Aside from appearance, some edges were dangerously sharp. So took each one apart, sanded and polished the edges of everything including the openings, and put back together. Used 600, 1000 and 1500 grit paper, then plastic polish. Didn’t get crazy but broke the edges while using the 1000 and 1500 paper. Looks much better, not going to hurt anyone, and the windows glide open and closed effortlessly. Nice. A recommended detail for others.

While under the car tweaking the front coilovers and ride height just slightly, noticed that the upper radiator hose was contacting the KRC water pump pulley. The KRC power steering kit includes a new water pump pulley that replaces the stock one. Drives the added belt for the power steering pump. Others have reported that the underside of this extended pulley hits the upper radiator hose where it leaves the engine. My Roadster with the same setup is close but doesn't touch. This one however was making a mark in the hose fitting. Did a search and found several possible solutions. The connection is keyed with a push on fitting. The solution I liked was to cut a new slot for the key so that the hose rotated slightly. Used a 1/8-inch burr in my Dremel, cut a new slot about 3/8-inch away from the existing one (it doesn’t take much) and pushed back together keying on the new slot. Rotated the hose enough that now I have about 1/4-inch clearance. Took all of 15-20 minutes and a perfect solution. Didn't even lose or drip any coolant. So, thanks to the forum and forum member who posted.

After staring at them for a few weeks now, decided I wanted to black out behind the rear grilles. The red side wasn’t bad. But the white side just stood out and reminded me (and maybe everyone else) that these are fake. I really didn’t want to paint. But someone suggested using black vinyl and that was a great idea. Just happened to have some on hand left over from the #8674 build. I did paint the heads of the body mounting bolts black as the vinyl wouldn’t have gone over them very neatly. Then cut vinyl pieces that were the same size as the grilles, cut holes for the mounting bolts, and wet applied the vinyl. It’s subtle but I like the difference.

\

With the windshield installed, time for wipers and washers to be finalized. Washers were simple enough. Installed the nozzles, hooked up the hoses, and sprayed enough to get the nozzles adjusted. The ones I used, shown earlier, have little swivel balls on the nozzles. So stuck a needle in the holes and tweaked to where they hit the center of the windshield. All good. Hope my safety inspector appreciates the effort with those. Don't expect to actually use much. For the wipers, checked to confirm the 120-degree sweep I had set up when installing the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wiper kit. As luck would have it, too much. Took three times in and out with the wiper system to get it right. Could have been only once because I determined the right 110 degree new sweep angle. But didn’t follow the directions correctly the first two times for how to set it. Good grief. With that fixed, snapped on the wipers after putting some rattle can satin black on the arms. They came an industrial grey that wouldn’t have quite fit my color scheme. I used ANCO 44-01 Adjustable Wiper Arms and ANCO 5215 15-inch 52-Series Clear-Flex wiper blades. I found these referenced on a pretty old build on the other forum and they worked well. The 15-inch blades give a nice sweep of the windshield, although the outside tip of the passenger side isn’t quite flat when parked. But no big deal. The arms adjust in length as well as the angle of the blade. So, it’s possible to get them decently lined up. My whole wiper and washer system, with the Cole Hersee 75600-04 switch, which integrates the washer, provides an intermittent function as well as two speeds and works well. Very happy with it. The only thing missing compared to a DD is automatic rain sensing. I think I have that personally covered.



Also, now with the windshield installed, mounted the center rear view mirror. I chose to use a windshield mounted mirror versus a roll bar mount like some. Discussed previously. But I wanted one with a bit wider angle than the one provided in the kit. So, picked up a Brandmotion 9002-9701 Infinity manual dimming mirror. Very nice piece. I thought about extending the black border on the windshield down to where it would attach. That would be more OE looking. But that needed to done while doing the rest of the border and wasn’t exactly sure where the right location would be. Plus, really didn’t want to trust gluing that little button to the black painted on frit material. So, now with the windshield installed and after determining the best location, glued the button directly to the glass with the provided Loctite adhesive kit. You can see the silver button in the picture above. That’s how it’s going to be. Here’s a picture of it installed. I tried to take the picture to show what you can see out the back. It’s a pretty narrow opening. But with the two side mirrors plus this, it’s about as good as it’s going to get. Doesn’t look like it, but the mirror is well in front of the roll bar and a pretty natural feeling location.



Mounted the Factory Five nameplate on the driver’s side footbox. Must be almost done now.



So, my final update is about the Gen 3 Coyote. Earlier I mentioned (maybe a couple times) that the Gen 3 Coyote needs to have the OE oil pressure sensor installed. Otherwise the system starts throwing error codes (DTC’s). This is different than the Gen 2 where the OE sensor could be removed and replaced with the aftermarket sensor for the gauge. Also different than what Ford Performance told me when I first asked. Grrr. Although if you call and ask now they will say the OE sensor has to be there. Factory Five will tell you the same thing. Sometimes it hurts a little to be early in the game. The solution is to either modify the PCM calibration, which some have done. Or install a T fitting so both the OE and aftermarket sensor are in the circuit. I’ve been stalling on this one because I kind of made a mess of things. When I installed my Gen 3 Coyote, I found that Ford had changed the oil pressure sensor from NPT to M12x1.5 threads. The Speedhut oil pressure sensor is 1/8 NPT. So, thinking a metric to NPT adapter wouldn’t be easy to find, I removed the JR3Z-6881-A oil filter and oil pressure sender housing from the block (pretty easy, just four bolts) and tapped the metric hole to 1/4 NPT. Then used a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT adapter I had on hand and installed the Speedhut sensor. Thought I was being clever. But in hindsight was an incredibly dumb thing to do. Turns out the proper metric to NPT adapter is widely available. Just had to look, which I didn’t. Then when I ran the engine without the OE sensor started to get the error codes and the rest is history. So fast forward to now. Decided that rather than messing with the housing that I butchered I bought a new one. What’s another $100+ part at this point, right? Installed it the other day and started looking at options for a T fitting and the two sensors. Also talked to a couple other builders to see what they had done. I tried to keep it as simple as possible. Found a fitting on eBay that was M12x1.5 threads on each end (one male, one female) with a 1/8 NPT tap in the side. Perfect. But the 1/8 NPT was too close to the block to fit the large Speedhut sensor. So used a 1/8 NPT female to male 45-degree fitting from Summit. Today put things together and it worked. It’s a tight fight, and a little fiddly to get the angles right. Sanded on a crush washer to get the large fitting to clock into the right position. But now it’s installed. Cleared the codes. Ran my engine multiple times. No leaks. No codes. I hope this is fixed. This is what I installed. Speedhut sensor is the one at the top. The OE (smaller) one at the bottom.



Final comment on the oil pressure situation. I’m seeing where Speedhut has changed their latest oil pressure gauges to a 3-wire voltage output sensor versus this larger 2-wire resistive sensor they’ve been using for some time. These sensors don’t have the best reliability record, so I’m guessing that’s why the change. But my gauges are a couple years old now so aren’t this newer type. The solution might be different for those with newer gauges and a different sensor.

That’s it! My next update will be from the show in a couple weeks.

[Higgybulin]

Looks great Paul, can't wait to come by and see it in person!!!

[Alphamacaroon]

Quick question edwardb: I know you went with rear wheel spacers (I went with the same you bought), but did you end up putting spacers on the front? Now that my hood is mounted it really feels like the front could use some as well. Or will that screw with the steering geometry?

[edwardb]

Quick question edwardb: I know you went with rear wheel spacers (I went with the same you bought), but did you end up putting spacers on the front? Now that my hood is mounted it really feels like the front could use some as well. Or will that screw with the steering geometry?

No, I didn't put wheel spacers in the front and have no plans to do so. I'm fine with how it looks. I don't claim to know how it might affect the steering, but a quick Google search says that's a legitimate concern. I have 275 tires on the front, which maybe fill out the opening better than the often used 245 or 255's.

[CTHiker52]

Paul. the car looks great. I can't wait to see your finished pictures. I would like to see it in person but I can't make it to the Autorama show.
Gary

[David Williamson]

Awsome job again. You get somany small details just right.
David W

[ynsinCA]

WOW! Very inspiring and thanks so much for all the details of the build.

[edwardb]

I said no updates until Autorama. But was inspired to make an addition to my build, so will share. One of my minor regrets with the build was not installing a quick release steering wheel. Saw where some installed them but didn’t put it in my plan as I didn't think I needed it. After getting the build far enough long to truly experience climbing in out, was sorry I didn’t pursue. Not a huge deal necessarily. But the steering wheel definitely is in the way. Was reminded of that every time I climbed in and out on the passenger side. But by then I was fully committed to the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, the steering column was installed, and the interior basically finished. I know some have worked with Russ to have something compatible with his setup, but I was a little late and didn’t want to start taking things apart (again…). Plus, every solution I’ve seen involved welding on the steering column. I don’t weld.

So fast forward to a week or so ago when another forum member posted a quick release setup that didn’t require welding or cutting the steering column and played OK with the standard Russ Thompson turn signal. Interesting! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...on-turn-signal. With a couple weeks until the show have time to do something. After studying and asking some questions, decided to go for it. The part used is an NRG SRK-400 “thin” quick disconnect. Comes in various colors. I chose the SRK-400CF carbon fiber version which goes along with the CF trim I have in the cockpit. Found one in stock on eBay. Ordered on Monday, had it on Wednesday. Today it’s installed. What a nice upgrade. Totally happy with how it turned out. It’s kinda sorta a bolt on. But some modifications are required. I wouldn’t say it’s hard. But does require some precision and care and probably best to at least have a drill press. So proceed accordingly. I’ll go through each major step.

First is the part that attaches to the steering wheel adapter and stays on the column when you remove the wheel. Remove the horn switch. Two screws. Then it’s necessary to cut the back of it completely off. It’s too large to fit into the steering wheel adapter. I made a little fixture and used my router table to nibble most of it off. Then finished with a Dremel cut-off wheel. The back of the NRG hub needs to be flat where it meets the existing steering wheel hub. Next, the two-piece steering wheel adapter from Russ needs to be bolted together. I drilled new countersinks and used the existing screws, obviously without the steering wheel. Had to shorten the screws slightly. Another perhaps better option would be use countersunk cap screws. Then center the NRG hub, lay out the mounting holes, and drill and tap for 5mm x 0.8. Do it carefully and it’s possible to work around the screws holding the two halves of the adapter together. The NRG logo and open and close markings should be at the top. The metric screws come with the quick release. When done, looks like this. You can see just the edges of the screws holding the two adapter halves together.





Now on to the steering wheel side. Remove the horn switch here also. Two screws. Again, necessary to trim some of the back of the NRG piece as it also runs into the hole in the existing steering wheel adapter when latched together, which is what I did. The shiny ring in the picture below. Or you could trim the hole in the adapter. Then center the piece on the steering wheel and lay out the hole locations, again avoiding the existing holes from the previous adapter. On the NRG piece, you want to use the inner holes, which will keep the new countersunk mounting holes well inside the bezel. Pay very close attention to orientation so the NRG piece puts the top of the steering wheel at the “T” (top) mark that Russ has on the hub when locked in the closed position. You’ll need to get some 5mm x 0.8 flat head screws as these aren’t included. Ace had them. When done, looks like this:





Now for installation into the car. You could put the steering wheel adapter assembly right back on the steering column as is and be done. But I was a little concerned about the added distance of the steering wheel away from the dash. NRG’s website says the quick release is 1.25 inches thick. But actually it’s 15/16-inches from surface to surface. So that’s how much it adds. I was OK with that but wondered if I could reduce that some without taking a bunch of stuff apart. Turns out it was easy to take the turn signal mechanism off the mounted tube (a single Allen head set screw holding it) and trim back the tube. Russ has a step in the tube that fits into the turn signal mechanism. He has it longer than it needs to be when delivered. I was able to trim just over 1/2-inch and push the mechanism back to the beginning of the step. That's the maximum I could do without taking more drastic measures. Adjusted the steering column in and installation done with only 7/16-inch of added distance on the steering wheel from the dash. Not noticeable and enjoying how much easier it is to climb in and out.

[nuhale]

Looks great! I saw that post too and bought right away for my roadster build. Thanks for keeping such a detailed record to make it easier for the rest of us! As a big guy I was sweating getting in and out of the darn thing.

[CTHiker52]

Thanks Paul for your detailed write-up. I’m 6’ 4” and this is another for the must must have list for my future Coupe build.

[ProJoe]

I am a HUGE fan of NRG products and am thrilled to see them hitting more FFR builds.

a quick release makes life so much easier.

[P100DHG]

I had considered this on my build, Russ drilled and tapped my hub to the Momo bolt pattern and having a Momo steering wheel it seems like it would be a fairly straight forward process of me. But I’m not there yet. Good research thanks for write up.

[jwhit]

I used three 1/4"-20 low profile screws into nutserts on each side. Only in the sill. They're covered by the carpet and not noticeable. You can see the locations with clecos in the picture below I posted earlier. I filled the holes they put in the body going into the upright. My body ended up slightly away from that, plus didn't want them visible. I wouldn't get too excited about body fit until you're doing everything. Location of the body, hood, doors, all interact and you'll need to work to find the best location for all at the same time. At least that was my experience. My body ended up somewhat close to the Factory Five shipping screw locations, but not exact.

dumb question how close was body at door sill ,it looks real close to edge i had mine maybe 3/16 to 1/4 off inside edge
but now that im fight door issues if i take bolts out and let body move out where body is 1/2 plus away from inside edge
i think my door would fit without spacers between door and door frame any thoughts?

[edwardb]

dumb question how close was body at door sill ,it looks real close to edge i had mine maybe 3/16 to 1/4 off inside edge
but now that im fight door issues if i take bolts out and let body move out where body is 1/2 plus away from inside edge
i think my door would fit without spacers between door and door frame any thoughts?

If I understand you're question correctly, how close did the inside edge of the body come to the edge of the chassis corner right below it? Where the inside wall of the chassis aluminum is? Mine is pretty close to matching. Initially, almost the same front to back. I did adjust just slightly to get the best match for the outside bottom edge of the doors to the body. But on both sides there's probably no more than 1/8" of difference between the two. No way it's as much as 1/2". Neither my doors or the pontoon to front cowl alignment would have been right if mine was that far away. I'd be very surprised if you're able to get the driver side door to fit without spacers between the door frame and the shell. I've heard from other builders that they did the same thing.

[cgundermann]

I said no updates until Autorama. But was inspired to make an addition to my build, so will share. One of my minor regrets with the build was not installing a quick release steering wheel. Saw where some installed them but didn’t put it in my plan as I didn't think I needed it. After getting the build far enough long to truly experience climbing in out, was sorry I didn’t pursue. Not a huge deal necessarily. But the steering wheel definitely is in the way. Was reminded of that every time I climbed in and out on the passenger side. But by then I was fully committed to the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, the steering column was installed, and the interior basically finished. I know some have worked with Russ to have something compatible with his setup, but I was a little late and didn’t want to start taking things apart (again…). Plus, every solution I’ve seen involved welding on the steering column. I don’t weld.

So fast forward to a week or so ago when another forum member posted a quick release setup that didn’t require welding or cutting the steering column and played OK with the standard Russ Thompson turn signal. Interesting! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...on-turn-signal. With a couple weeks until the show have time to do something. After studying and asking some questions, decided to go for it. The part used is an NRG SRK-400 “thin” quick disconnect. Comes in various colors. I chose the SRK-400CF carbon fiber version which goes along with the CF trim I have in the cockpit. Found one in stock on eBay. Ordered on Monday, had it on Wednesday. Today it’s installed. What a nice upgrade. Totally happy with how it turned out. It’s kinda sorta a bolt on. But some modifications are required. I wouldn’t say it’s hard. But does require some precision and care and probably best to at least have a drill press. So proceed accordingly. I’ll go through each major step.

First is the part that attaches to the steering wheel adapter and stays on the column when you remove the wheel. Remove the horn switch. Two screws. Then it’s necessary to cut the back of it completely off. It’s too large to fit into the steering wheel adapter. I made a little fixture and used my router table to nibble most of it off. Then finished with a Dremel cut-off wheel. The back of the NRG hub needs to be flat where it meets the existing steering wheel hub. Next, the two-piece steering wheel adapter from Russ needs to be bolted together. I drilled new countersinks and used the existing screws, obviously without the steering wheel. Had to shorten the screws slightly. Another perhaps better option would be use countersunk cap screws. Then center the NRG hub, lay out the mounting holes, and drill and tap for 5mm x 0.8. Do it carefully and it’s possible to work around the screws holding the two halves of the adapter together. The NRG logo and open and close markings should be at the top. The metric screws come with the quick release. When done, looks like this. You can see just the edges of the screws holding the two adapter halves together.





Now on to the steering wheel side. Remove the horn switch here also. Two screws. Again, necessary to trim some of the back of the NRG piece as it also runs into the hole in the existing steering wheel adapter when latched together, which is what I did. The shiny ring in the picture below. Or you could trim the hole in the adapter. Then center the piece on the steering wheel and lay out the hole locations, again avoiding the existing holes from the previous adapter. On the NRG piece, you want to use the inner holes, which will keep the new countersunk mounting holes well inside the bezel. Pay very close attention to orientation so the NRG piece puts the top of the steering wheel at the “T” (top) mark that Russ has on the hub when locked in the closed position. You’ll need to get some 5mm x 0.8 flat head screws as these aren’t included. Ace had them. When done, looks like this:





Now for installation into the car. You could put the steering wheel adapter assembly right back on the steering column as is and be done. But I was a little concerned about the added distance of the steering wheel away from the dash. NRG’s website says the quick release is 1.25 inches thick. But actually it’s 15/16-inches from surface to surface. So that’s how much it adds. I was OK with that but wondered if I could reduce that some without taking a bunch of stuff apart. Turns out it was easy to take the turn signal mechanism off the mounted tube (a single Allen head set screw holding it) and trim back the tube. Russ has a step in the tube that fits into the turn signal mechanism. He has it longer than it needs to be when delivered. I was able to trim just over 1/2-inch and push the mechanism back to the beginning of the step. That's the maximum I could do without taking more drastic measures. Adjusted the steering column in and installation done with only 7/16-inch of added distance on the steering wheel from the dash. Not noticeable and enjoying how much easier it is to climb in and out.

Paul ~

Without the RF hub (standard FFR steering) any issues with installing? Looks like the bolt pattern is slightly different from the FFR steering wheel, so still re-drill?

Thanks, Chris

[Erik W. Treves]

the FFR Moto-Lita pattern will require redrill if you go anything other than the standard FFR installation method.

[edwardb]

Paul ~ Without the RF hub (standard FFR steering) any issues with installing? Looks like the bolt pattern is slightly different from the FFR steering wheel, so still re-drill?

Thanks, Chris

The Russ Thompson turn signal still uses the standard Factory Five hub. You send it to Russ and he modifies it to work with his turn signal assembly. So if you don't do his turn signal, it's not split into two pieces (among other things) but the bolt pattern and location where the steering wheel attaches is unchanged. So much of what's shown here would still apply. The FFR bolt pattern is different than the NRG quick release (and anything other than the FFR wheel as Erik said) so you would attach to the hub and steering wheel with new holes as shown. Just wouldn't need the bolts holding the split adapter together. Hopefully that makes sense.

[CobraKan]

The quick release looks like a must have ordered one from Amazon earlier today then read you post on installation. You did a fabulous job. I have read your posts on the Mk3 build and 20th Anniversary and find them to be a must have on a build.

[jwhit]

Well my teaser picture of the inline skate wheels created a few more comments than I was expecting, and their purpose was correctly identified on both forums. Today I have the hood rollers basically completed. Still need the brackets powder coated then will bolt on for good. This is another one of those optional upgrades, but really is a nice addition. It's a bit inconvenient raising and lowering the hood (or cowl in this case I guess) and typically had to go back and forth on each side a couple times to keep it from hitting the corner of the body opening or trying to knock off the lowest bumper on each side. Or ask someone to help and spread as it opened and closed. With the rollers in place, it’s a one-person job from one side and is effortless without hitting anything. I removed the bottom bumper on each side because the rollers provide the same function in that area. Super nice mod that I highly recommend.

As I mentioned previously, a complete version is listed at Whitby’s. But are for the previous Gen Coupes. They mount in an area below the latching U-bolts. The Gen 3 is changed in that area, so can’t mount in the same place or fashion. Could be mounted to the aluminum footbox sides, and probably would be just fine. But I decided to come up with a design more compatible with the Gen 3. Plus, I did it for about one third the cost, if you consider the time spent free of course. Like budget is much of a consideration at this point.

After even more sitting and staring, decided to mount them to the side of the steel bracket that the U-bolts are attached to. They angle back to the frame and have a relatively large surface to attach to. First made a pattern out of cardboard. Then made some very rough concept pieces out of .040 aluminum. Could have left the bracket square like the cardboard pattern. But decided they needed a little more flair so add the circles where the wheels mount. Ended up looking a little like Micky Mouse ears. After some tweaking and changes, liked what I had and made the final pieces from .125 thick 6061 aluminum. I was going to make them out of mild sheet steel. But decided on the aluminum since it’s so much easier to work with considering the tools I have. I’m very satisfied with the strength. They’re solid and work perfectly.

There’s already a slot in the U-bolt mount, so used that for two mounting bolts. I lengthened it on the outside of the footbox so that one bolt could be on the outside. Both bolts could be inside. But I wanted one closer to the bend and the rollers to provide as much rigidity as possible. For the inside one, had to open the slot slightly for the 5/16-inch carriage bolts I used. A smaller bolt size could work, but I had those on hand so used them. The minor mods to the frame U-bolt mounts was easy on the side with the access cover. Not so easy on the other side where I have all the aluminum finalized. If you’re thinking about this mod and mount them the same way, highly recommend fitting them up before mounting the aluminum panels. Would be much easier. Here are pics.

Developing the concept and rough prototypes.



Driver side final version.



Passenger side final version with access cover off showing carriage bolt attachments, and with cover on.





Cut required in underside of cowl flange to clear roller assembly and U-bolt latches.



Next up I'll finalize the pontoon alignment pins and a little more remaining bodywork. Then on to final electrical and lighting. Completely off topic side note. My first build, a Mk3 Roadster with a warmed up 306 is owned by a good buddy in our local club and see it often. He had a Factory Five premium top put on it (those are really nice) and had a shop install the Saturn Vue electric power steering system. It’s now over 10,000 miles and hadn’t been tuned up since I sold it to him 5 years ago. He’s been doing the usual fluid changes, lube, etc. But hadn’t touched anything else on the engine. He asked if he could bring it over and have me check it out. It was fun getting my hands dirty on my old build. He’s taking great care of it and still looks brand new. Cleaned up the contacts in the MSD distributor and put some new plugs in it. Other than that, everything looked perfect and runs great. Was a good time with both friends.

would you be willing to share the pattern for skate wheels ?
thanks

[edwardb]

would you be willing to share the pattern for skate wheels ?
thanks

I wondered how long it would be before someone asked that. Fortunately, I saved the prototype pieces I made from .040 aluminum after the initial cardboard templates. Traced them and scanned with a 6-inch ruler. Download the .pdf and scale the print until the ruler measures six inches and should be a good starting point for the brackets. I made mine from 1/8-inch aluminum with the round parts a little more symmetrical than these prototypes. Have held up well and work great. The patterns don't have the bolt holes for where they go into chassis. I used c-clamps to hold them in place until the right location, then marked and drilled. The wheels I used were AOWISH 4-Pack 64mm Inline Skate Replacement Wheels 85A from Amazon. Good luck!

[jwhit]

I wondered how long it would be before someone asked that. Fortunately, I saved the prototype pieces I made from .040 aluminum after the initial cardboard templates. Traced them and scanned with a 6-inch ruler. Download the .pdf and scale the print until the ruler measures six inches and should be a good starting point for the brackets. I made mine from 1/8-inch aluminum with the round parts a little more symmetrical than these prototypes. Have held up well and work great. The patterns don't have the bolt holes for where they go into chassis. I used c-clamps to hold them in place until the right location, then marked and drilled. The wheels I used were AOWISH 4-Pack 64mm Inline Skate Replacement Wheels 85A from Amazon. Good luck!

thanks for this it should same some time ,i have a laser so i may cut a few sets after i check on mine and offer to others at my cost
can you check mine drawing against what you made and see if it looks close? thanks again roller.pdf

[EZ$]

Hey Paul. Thanks so much for the description of the quick release installation, but I had a couple of questions regarding the removal of material from the steering wheel piece, and the piece that mounts on the steering wheel adapter. You say to completely remove the raised portion on the back of the adapter piece. Because it's recessed into the outer collar of the quick release, how exactly did you go about removing this material? Is the material difficult to cut? I see there are two screws on the back of this piece with washers that appear to locate that cast piece, and possibly hold it in place? Should those screws be removed to pull the piece that is to be trimmed out, or would that be something that should not be removed to avoid problems in reassembly? On the steering wheel piece, it appears that you only took the stock material down to the first step. Is this correct? If I don't have the capabilities to cleanly remove the material, do you think it would be something to have a local machine shop take care of? Sorry for all the additional questions. I just don't want to screw this up. Thanks.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul. Thanks so much for the description of the quick release installation, but I had a couple of questions regarding the removal of material from the steering wheel piece, and the piece that mounts on the steering wheel adapter. You say to completely remove the raised portion on the back of the adapter piece. Because it's recessed into the outer collar of the quick release, how exactly did you go about removing this material? Is the material difficult to cut? I see there are two screws on the back of this piece with washers that appear to locate that cast piece, and possibly hold it in place? Should those screws be removed to pull the piece that is to be trimmed out, or would that be something that should not be removed to avoid problems in reassembly? On the steering wheel piece, it appears that you only took the stock material down to the first step. Is this correct? If I don't have the capabilities to cleanly remove the material, do you think it would be something to have a local machine shop take care of? Sorry for all the additional questions. I just don't want to screw this up. Thanks.

The parts are aluminum, so not hard to work with. I did the majority of the work by hand. For the piece that goes on the steering wheel, I trimmed it carefully with a Dremel, then straightened with a file, and finished by sanding across a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Took some elbow grease to get like the picture, but not particularly difficult. The amount to take off is as you described. It's obvious how much to take off once the other side is on the adapter. The release won't go together until the right amount is removed.

The piece that goes on the adapter is a bit harder. I described making a fixture and trimming with a router. But that didn't work all that well, and if I were doing it again wouldn't bother. I mainly removed all the material with a Dremel. The flat surface is already there, so just need to work down to that. I didn't take the screws out that you mention. That would have released the locking spring assembly, and since there were cautions about how it should be adjusted, I chose not to disturb it. Not sure that would have made it any easier anyway.

If you're not comfortable with all of this, I would think a machinist could do it pretty easily. Probably with a milling machine, lathe, or both.

[EZ$]

Thanks so much Paul. Just wasn't sure how easy/hard the removal was going to be. I've got basically the same tools, so I'll give it a go. Good to know that the piece with the locking button doesn't get taken apart. That was what I figured would happen.
Another question I forgot to ask, how did you center the pieces to get the holes drilled? I was going to make a template of the holes, and try to center it on the center point of the steering wheel and the adapter. Just don't know how accurate that will get me.

[edwardb]

Another question I forgot to ask, how did you center the pieces to get the holes drilled? I was going to make a template of the holes, and try to center it on the center point of the steering wheel and the adapter. Just don't know how accurate that will get me.

Nothing very fancy there either. Placed the quick connect pieces over their intended spots and marked the hole locations. Then using a micrometer measured and adjusted as necessary to get them exactly the same distance from the edge of the inner concentric holes. Center punched and measured again. Drilled an undersized hole and measured again. Couple I had to tweak with a needle file. Final drilled and tapped the adapter side. Everything centered up quite well. This is where a drill press really helps.

[JohnK]

I'm in the middle of the mods required to install the quick release, so I'll share my experience. I haven't modded the piece that goes on the steering wheel yet, but I did mod the piece that goes on the adapter. I actually did remove the two screws with washers and removed the cast aluminum piece that requires trimming from the outer ring. Besides removing the two screws, you need to be careful of the little brass release button that sits in a recess in the cast aluminum piece. You'll see it if you look in between the cast piece and the outer ring. It's the button that releases the silver release button on the outer ring. The button and spring will shoot across the room if you don't catch them. However, it was actually really easy to remove and made trimming the cast aluminum piece far easier. I trimmed off most of it with a Dremel cutoff wheel, then took it over to my bench sander and sanded the remaining ridge off until the bottom was smooth and flat. Putting it back together with the brass button and spring in position was very easy and straightforward. I didn't really see any way to adjust things - I just re-installed the two screws with washers until they were fairly snug, and everything appears to operate as it did before I took it apart (but then again, I haven't installed it in the car yet).

Apologies for intruding on your thread Paul. Just thought I'd share in case it was helpful.

[edwardb]

Apologies for intruding on your thread Paul. Just thought I'd share in case it was helpful.

None needed. More than one way to do this thing. Thanks for sharing. Side note. Loaded my Coupe into the SE trailer today for transport down to the Autorama show. Reminded once again how much easier it is to climb in and out, especially through the side door of the SE, with the steering wheel out of the way. Great mod.

Picture from a couple days ago when the sun was out. Before the big snowstorm we're supposed to get tomorrow. With #8674 Roadster waiting patiently in the background for more attention.

[EZ$]

Thanks Paul. I'm going to try to finish this tomorrow.

John, thanks for the insight regarding taking the unit apart. I'm going to try to do this without taking the unit apart, but now I won't be paniced about taking it apart, and not being able to put it back together.

[JohnK]

Beautiful! Exceptional work (as always).

What's next?

[CTHiker52]

Paul, the car looks gorgeous in the sun light and I'll bet the picture doesn't do it justice. Enjoy the Autorama show

Gary

[Papa]

Looks like another show winner, Paul. Your work is amazing.

Dave

[EZ$]

As the guys have mentioned, and I failed to in my reply, the coupe is stunning inside and out. Your cars are always amazing. I can only dream of that kind of quality construction. Congratulations!

[Vette1972]

Paul,

I have followed the build for 2 years along with many others. What a masterpiece of car craft! It is an amazing build. Best of luck at Autorama!

Thanks for sharing,

Len

[edwardb]

Done with a marathon weekend showing the 99.9% completed build at the 2020 Detroit Autorama in TCF Center (formerly Cobo Center) in downtown Detroit, Michigan. This is the fifth time I’ve shown a build at this annual show. I enjoy doing it, but it is exhausting. We moved in last Thursday at noon and there was nearly no waiting and went fine. Move out was last night and after waiting in a multiple blocks-long car trailer line, made it in after two hours and dodged all the obstacles to get home last night just before midnight. The Coupe is back safe and sound in the garage. There seemed to be a lot of cars on display this year and was very well attended. There were crowds of people in front of the Coupe (and all the others of course!) for hours at a time. Had lots of interesting discussions and mostly good questions. Some know the Daytona Coupe story. Some don’t. Response to the Coupe was overwhelmingly positive. Most commented about the paint and loved the color. Many also commented about the Coyote and how cool it was to put a modern powerplant in a vintage style car. Had a conversation with a very well-known dealer of hot rods, classics, etc. and he confirmed this is the hot spot for him. Said at least in his experience this is what most buyers are looking for and will pay more for it. Not remotely looking to sell. But interesting. Probably one of the most common responses was people saying they wouldn't fit or couldn't get in and out. In my people watching experience during the show, that's true for many. Just saying... Also lots of Factory Five questions. People interested in the process, how it went for me, what I thought of their products, telling me about builds they were doing or planning, etc. All good. Caught up with Dan from Factory Five a few times who was there with the 25th Anniversary Roadster in the Ford Performance booth. Kind of interesting. They were playing TV commercials the week before this event. Several people sent me screen shots. That’s my 20th Anniversary Roadster in the Ford Performance booth last year.



Here are some pictures from my display. You have no control of where you’re located. You go where they say. I was right next to a commercial booth (body shop supplies or something) that erected a giant wall on the back perimeter of their display. Wasn’t over the line, but kind of crowded me and IMO isn’t the best background. But no big deal I guess. This was before the crowds started coming in.









Several people here asked me to do a walkaround video. So did that also before the crowds on Friday. I am a pure amateur at this sort of thing, and the background noise made my narration kind of soft and average quality from my iPhone. But turn up the volume and you’ll get the idea. https://youtu.be/w2pLNjTEJOM

For the first time in all the times I’ve participated in this show, I was there when the judges came to my car. I introduced myself but stayed out of the way. Spent 10-15 minutes going over everything they could see, including with a flashlight. At the end, offered some compliments about the car but openly gave me the details of two things they found. Both really minor. I could show them more. Felt good about how it went. But still was nervous right up until they called the class at the awards ceremony. Was happy to receive this trophy for the 1400.0 Handbuilt Sports class.



I was told my car was in the running for several special awards. Best paint, best interior, best engine, best sports, etc. Nothing there, but was pleased (surprised) to be in the conversation. The competition and money people are obviously willing to spend is incredible. After a day or two relaxing and recovering, planning to start this week on the title and registration process. Should be done in time for warmer weather and finally getting to drive.

[GoDadGo]

...You Winning This Award Doesn't Surprise Any Of Your Factory Five Family Members!

Congratulations & Well Done!

[Papa]

Not surprised at all, Paul. You deserve it and we all know your build quality is "First Place" every time. Congratulations!

Dave

[delta0014]

Congrats!

[JohnK]

Congratulations Paul! Very well deserved.