Quick Release / Russ Thompson turn signal

[frd2]

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Just installed a NRG quick release on my Russ Thompson equipped wheel. Couldn't be happier.

Minimal thickness added to the hub, and only involved re-drilling and tapping - no welding. Did have to remove the center of the quick release which means no horn button in the center of the wheel..........

SRK-400 was the hub part number. Credit to Peter Fritsche on one of the face book pages for the idea and part number.

Greg Hevron

[karlos]

Thanks for posting this. Looks like a great option for the RT turn signal users out there. Can you please provide more detail on what needed to be re-drilled and tapped? The steering wheel? The hub? Maybe both?

Gracias.


-Karl

[edwardb]

Also thanks from me for posting. I checked it out on NRG's website plus looked at a few related videos. Decided I'm going for it. Ordered one for my Coupe build. Should have it tomorrow and will post an update in my Coupe build thread. I regretted not doing a quick release wheel in my Coupe. But also didn't like the various solutions out there. Mainly because I don't weld plus have the RT turn signal piece. This looks very promising.

[David Williamson]

I think I need this as well, more details please. Getting into the the Coupe with the steering wheel in place is tight.
David W

[canuck1]

Thanks Greg!

I don't play on Facebook, so I appreciate you sharing the info here! Quick-release is something I've often thought about doing.

Sean

[frd2]

Couple places to redrill. The Russ Thompson hub is 2 pieces. The steering wheel bolts that mount the wheel also hold the 2 pieces of the hub together. So step one was drill and tap the 2 pieces of the hub to permanently hold them together. Just make sure those screws stay out of the way of the rest.

Then you must drill and tap the new correct bolt pattern into the hub to match the quick release. Likewise the same bolt pattern into the wheel (correctly clocked with pattern in the hub to keep wheel level when straight) assuming you stick w a f5 wheel.

The center button covers the new holes.

The middle of the quick release (provision for horn wiring) must be removed to not interfere. Look at the new one on nrg web site to see the difference.

I hired out the work to a local machinist. Was not sure how to center the release on the hub properly. He took a piece of essentially plastic pipe and turned it down to match the appropriate id for each piece to center them. Made it easy.

[frd2]

Here are photos of the machined pieces to make the job easy. I didn't have a way to center the release on the hub and the wheel to drill.

Once we had those made it was simply drill press work with the correct size drill / tap etc. Each black plastic piece is sized to hold the 2 halves together so that they are centered and you can then drill. Drilled one spot, tapped, inserted screw to perfectly hold for the next one, etc.
5mm x 0.8 is the size for the nrg hub

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Let me know if more photos help or any other questions.

Greg

[frd2]

Here is the release taken apart to show what was removed, etc

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Only drilled 5 of 6 into the hub as one was a little close to the existing screw.

Existing screw holes were simply counter sunk to accept the cap screws to hold the 2 halves together (permanently now)

should have removed the bottom of the piece attached to the wheel. Discovered it barely interferes with the hub. It was easier for the machinist to put the hub in the lathe and clearance it a tiny bit. Zoom in on the photo of the hub and notice the ledge now present in the top ID. Remove that much from the quick release part on the wheel instead.

Also -

use the smaller ID bolt pattern on the wheel half of the quick release. We used the outer / larger circle pattern. BARELY covered by the trim piece when you account for screw heads.

[edwardb]

Just finished installing this on my Coupe build. Detailed in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post399325. I'm super pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for posting the idea!!! Final result:

[G-Pete]

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JCredit to Peter Fritsche on one of the face book pages for the idea and part number.

Greg Hevron

Thanks, that would be G-Pete here....

[Bowbrother]

Everybody use the SRK-400 or has somebody tried the SRK-400BK?

[JohnK]

The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one.

[edwardb]

Everybody use the SRK-400 or has somebody tried the SRK-400BK?

The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one.

Right. Nine difference colors available: http://www.getnrg.com/index.php?rout...search=srk-400. The one I chose (in post #9 above and detailed in my build thread) is the "CF" carbon fiber version. I like it.

[Bowbrother]

The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one.

Thank you. Little brain dead : Just finished upgrades on the roadster I bought. new dash w/ gauges, heater, hydraboost, windshield wipers, RT turn signals, soft top and front and rear bumps. Going to order the SRK-400 as part of my next round starting next week including upgrading from 4 to 5 lug ( axles, drums, rotors and wheel). At that point think I'll stop and go drive the Blue Ridge Parkway.

[karlos]

I want to once again thank Greg (the OP) for posting this, and also for loaning out the plastic centering pieces shown in his original post (not strictly necessary but does make the installation easier). He generously sent them to me on his own dime and wouldn’t accept repayment with the agreement that I pay it forward by making them available to other builders. A local builder I know from work has expressed interest in using them next. He’ll either pass them on when done or if they come back to me, I’ll post another update to this thread. Thanks Greg!

Not much new to add here as the previous posters have covered the process well. I did however want to point out one observation that may help those that follow.

There’s a casting mark on the back side of the part that attaches to the steering wheel (red circle below). If that mark is oriented at the 12:00 position the new bolt holes that need to be placed in both the steering wheel and the RT hub will center themselves nicely between the existing holes. Makes for a cleaner install with no countersinks on top of one another.

This was a fun little project to while away another snowy weekend here in Denver…

[JohnK]

I tried posting last night, but for some reason it doesn't look like it posted. I'd also like to thank Greg for posting this, and for loaning out the plastic tooling. I'd like to get in line to borrow them after anyone else that's already expressed interest. I'm happy to cover shipping. Thanks!

-John

[cgundermann]

I tried posting last night, but for some reason it doesn't look like it posted. I'd also like to thank Greg for posting this, and for loaning out the plastic tooling. I'd like to get in line to borrow them after anyone else that's already expressed interest. I'm happy to cover shipping. Thanks!

-John

I’d like to get in line after you John...also I’ll cover shipping...

Chris

[karlos]

Lots of interest in the plastic jig but unfortunately only one available. Since I have access to a 3D printer I can make another copy relatively quickly/easily. I'm in the process of getting that done now; parts should be available next week. In the meantime, I can make the CAD files available to anyone that can use them to print their own copy.

[cgundermann]

Lots of interest in the plastic jig but unfortunately only one available. Since I have access to a 3D printer I can make another copy relatively quickly/easily. I'm in the process of getting that done now; parts should be available next week. In the meantime, I can make the CAD files available to anyone that can use them to print their own copy.

Your the man Karlos!

Thanks, Chris

[Sigurd]

I would love a file. I have a 3D printer and the adapter is on the shelf! Can the file be sent via PM?

[frd2]

Dang this community rocks!

[fletch]

I'd like a copy of that CAD file too. Please, and thank you!

[David Hodgkins]

This is a pretty significant development. I can't tell you how many times I've heard the RT turn signal cant be used with a quick release hub over the years.

Way to go!

[karlos]

Email is the only way I know of to share the CAD files. If someone knows of a way to accomplish file exchange directly through the forum please let me know. For now, please send your email address via PM and I'll drop the files in your inbox.

Thanks,

-Karl

[SSNK4US]

I talked to Russ about it back in December of 18 and he thought it was a promising idea. He said to send him an NRC unit and he could probably shorten his hub a little more which is what I was hoping, big guy in a little car lol. My life went to crap and I never got to send him one He could probably still do the same for any new hubs he does? I posted something about this back then. I’m glad someone picked up the ball and ran with it!! Another part I’m going to do is use Skidd’s self canceling deal. It’s pretty slick if you haven’t seen it yet!

Kurt

[EZ$]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

[Sigurd]

Karl: Thank you for the file!

[edwardb]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

Not 100% sure I understand. With the locking collar on the steering column rotated all the way around to the "Open" position, the button stays down. Make sure it's all the way rotated to that position before placing the steering wheel adapter into position. Once properly indexed, the locking collar should rotate to the "Closed" position (with some slight amount of drag which is normal) and when all the way there, the button should pop out. That's the only time you'll see the button out. The only other comment is the instructions to talk about adjusting the button if necessary, but recommends against it. I didn't have to touch mine.

Edit: Hopefully my post isn't an insult or stating the obvious. Certainly isn't meant to be. Just wasn't clear from your description exactly what was happening and maybe it was something simple. That kind of thing has certainly happened to me.

[JohnK]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

Rick, did you take the hub apart to modify the inner cast aluminum piece? If so, make sure you put the little brass button and spring in correctly and they operate smoothly. If the spring is missing or the button is stuck somehow, that could prevent the outer silver button from popping out when the hub is rotated to the locked position.

-John

[karlos]

Surprising amount of interest in the CAD files! The 3D printing process must be more mainstream than I first thought. Would like to hear from anybody that manages to get the parts printed and test fit. I don't have my parts yet so curious as to how well they fit.

The original parts were turned on a lathe. The CAD dimensions came from those parts. Depending on the accuracy of the 3D printed parts some minor sanding may be necessary, as I don’t expect the tolerances achievable with a typical 3D printer to be as good as a lathe-turned part. I deliberately dimensioned the parts on the high side so the fit would be tight. Not much point in using a jig like this if the fit is loose and sloppy. And as the saying goes, it's easier to remove material than it is to add it...

-Karl

[EZ$]

Paul, no worries. I found when the unit was not installed yet that in order for the spring loaded button, inside the hub, to lock in place when closing the hub, I had to turn the unit upside down to get the outer button to extend out and then when turned the inner button would snap in place and lock the unit. If the outer button is depressed, turning the unit to the lock position will not pop the outer button out.
John, didn't take the unit apart. Managed to remove what was needed using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

Can't for the life of me figure out why that outer button won't lock. It's almost like the outer button catches on the edge of the spring loaded inner button which won't allow it to slide over the top of it.

[EZ$]

So I continued to think about this issue, and i decided that it may just be that the button needed some lubrication to get it to allow the spring loaded button to slide under it to pop it back out. And as they say, "even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile ". Go figure it worked. Was the first time I was able to lock the wheel without screwing around with the locking unit. On to my next disaster!

[karlos]

Parts came back from the printer today. Dimensions match the CAD to within 0.010 or so. These should fit/work well with little or no modification.

I have two sets available to anyone that can use them. PM your mailing address and they're yours for free. The only catch is that you do the same for the next builder down the line. Thanks.


-Karl

[Vspeeds]

Karlos
PM sent. Thanks

[JohnK]

Karlos - thanks so much for making the spacers. I wanted to take my name off the list. I managed to make the required mods without the spacers. Thanks again to everyone that's contributed to this mod. I'm really stoked with how it's turned out.

-John

[Just puttering]

You might try posting the cad file to your photo album

[WBILB]

Karlos USPS just arrived, thanks a million, I really appreciate the kind gesture!
Best
Bill

[WBILB]

Just found the SRK 400 CF on Amazon for $109 with Free shipping! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

[Capt. Paul]

Beautiful looking stitching on your interior including dashboard....looks comfy

[Sdonnel]

My hub will be here tomorrow and the 3D files will be printed by this Friday. A friend who is a machinist, is drooling for something to do. I'm hoping my install goes as well as everyone else's. Got it for $109 as well on Amazon.

Scott