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Thread: 3/17/2018 complete date for my MK4......delivery by April!

  1. #201
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    Sunday is my engine install day...... deep breathes! Looking forward to seeing the engine in the car. Completing a few things to get prepped. I went ahead and ran my SS hydraulic clutch line figuring it will be easier to makes holes now than later. Plenty of length to make it to the slave cylinder.

    EFE6064C-CC30-47DB-9DE5-EC0675A95915.jpgF7B89FC1-B3F5-4442-81B7-CEC8D5147530.jpg18D8A977-EB75-49DA-9BA6-65723B7B2F26.jpg

    Engine install pics soon.....
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  2. #202
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Stevant,

    The whole thing is looking great. I really like your tires and glove box. Good work!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Stevant,

    The whole thing is looking great. I really like your tires and glove box. Good work!
    Thanks Yama.....
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  4. #204
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    Steve, received my kit 2 months ago. License plate bump and deck latch holes are both centered. (they line up)

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by miller7448 View Post
    Steve, received my kit 2 months ago. License plate bump and deck latch holes are both centered. (they line up)
    When it’s time to complete the body It’s always an option to move the latch hole if necessary. Shouldn’t have to do that but it is what it is. At least there’s an option. Thanks for checking!!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  6. #206
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    Ok so I decided to do a continuity check on my ignition wire. This blue wire runs from the ignition, to the clutch switch, then down to the solenoid on the starter. I hooked the wires on the clutch switch as noted in the Ron Francis harness manual. It shows to hook the clutch wires onto the rear spades and the brake wires onto the front spades. The problem is that the continuity light was on when the clutch pedal was not pressed and it turned off when the clutch pedal is pushed in. That’s reversed. The circuit should be complete when the clutch is pushed in so the starter will operate. Simple fix was to just place the wires on the front spades and now it’s working perfectly. So now the brake switch and clutch switch both use the front spades on their switch. Curious if anyone has experienced anything different.

    1946418C-664D-42AB-90AA-06F49C312B83.jpg82DAAC25-B65A-4B6F-A8EB-D07FE3AABF47.jpgACD3DDA1-98E2-408B-BD0B-7E359F2F229E.jpgABC24862-33D8-4454-A3EA-F7F0794C7D26.jpeg

    The photo shows the wires on the rear spades which is incorrect. They are now on the front spades (the pair closer to the front of the car).

    Connected to front spades

    84F017A0-153E-4E72-B1F7-3ACF2ECBF12E.jpg
    Last edited by stevant; 08-09-2018 at 09:38 PM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  7. #207
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    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Ok so I decided to do a continuity check on my ignition wire. This blue wire runs from the ignition, to the clutch switch, then down to the solenoid on the starter. I hooked the wires on the clutch switch as noted in the Ron Francis harness manual. It shows to hook the clutch wires onto the rear spades and the brake wires onto the front spades. The problem is that the continuity light was on when the clutch pedal was not pressed and it turned off when the clutch pedal is pushed in. That’s reversed. The circuit should be complete when the clutch is pushed in so the starter will operate. Simple fix was to just place the wires on the front spades and now it’s working perfectly. So now the brake switch and clutch switch both use the front spades on their switch. Curious if anyone has experienced anything different.

    1946418C-664D-42AB-90AA-06F49C312B83.jpg82DAAC25-B65A-4B6F-A8EB-D07FE3AABF47.jpgACD3DDA1-98E2-408B-BD0B-7E359F2F229E.jpgABC24862-33D8-4454-A3EA-F7F0794C7D26.jpeg

    The photo shows the wires on the rear spades which is incorrect. They are now on the front spades (the pair closer to the front of the car).

    Connected to front spades

    84F017A0-153E-4E72-B1F7-3ACF2ECBF12E.jpg
    I experienced the exact same thing about a year ago when I started my wiring. As you did, simply swapping the wires over to the other set of terminals fixed it. I *think* I had to swap both the clutch and brake switch... the brake lights were full on until pushing the brake pedal.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
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    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    I experienced the exact same thing about a year ago when I started my wiring. As you did, simply swapping the wires over to the other set of terminals fixed it. I *think* I had to swap both the clutch and brake switch... the brake lights were full on until pushing the brake pedal.
    So I was not the only one.......
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  10. #210
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    Well today was a very productive day. Its amazing what a few bagels will do to your friends when you ask them for help. I had plenty of both!! We were able to install the engine and tranny today along with the driveshaft and the completion of Gordon Levy's pinion brake. Not too many curse words in fact none and I'm sticking with that!! With the Dart block I did have to notch the mounts. I'm hoping for future builders that they offer mounts that work right out of the box but none the less all worked out fine. One thing I did encounter that we could not slip the drive shaft in place once the tranny was all mounted. We had to remove the A frame and lower the tranny an inch or so to get the driveshaft in. Once we did that all went back nicely and it all lined up great!!

    Here are a bunch of pics of the install:

    Night prior, all is quiet getting ready for the big day!!

    IMG_3512.jpgIMG_3513.jpgIMG_3514.jpg

    Today, the guys know the bagels are waiting!!

    IMG_3539.JPGIMG_3537.JPGIMG_3538.JPGIMG_3540.JPGIMG_3536.JPGIMG_3541.JPG

    No pics of me as I was operating the hoist....no one wanted the responsibility........go figure!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  11. #211
    Papa's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the big milestone!

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  12. #212
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    Here are a few more after I dressed her up a little to see how pretty she looks!!

    IMG_3525.jpgIMG_3526.jpgIMG_3527.jpgIMG_3528.jpgIMG_3529.jpgIMG_3523.jpg

    Have to start running my engine wires but I have an idea where I'm going with them.

    IMG_3535.jpgIMG_3533.jpgIMG_3534.jpg

    All my power steering lines will be on the same side as my Hydroboost so the lines will be consolidated and neatly run along one side.

    IMG_3530.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Congratulations on the big milestone!

    Dave

    Thanks Dave!!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  14. #214
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Looks Great!!
    Higgy
    'Collecting knowledge and parts for a future build'

  15. #215
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Nice work and congrats. Gets real after the engine goes in! Looks like u had more than enough hands to help out!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  16. #216
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    I did, good friends and family. What more can you ask for. I was able to get some wiring done tonight. Hooked up my coolant sensor, oil temp sensor and oil pressure send.

    539ED19B-63DA-4643-A0A5-5903980DFCA8.jpgC57BF74B-8FD2-4F8E-B9B4-698F25C5FB87.jpgFD89E947-D779-48BF-9B32-B00E609011AF.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  17. #217
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    I know there are parts of the build that you know once you get too, you start to get a little nervous as you hope it goes well. This kit is a sum of its parts and in some cases you build up a lot to get to a nerve racking spot......like applying leather to the dash board. So many steps completed to get there and you hope you can get through the final step without a hitch!! Well today was my day, with moral support of some members here I was able to complete the main part of my dashboard and mount my gauges and switches. I am extremely pleased how it came out. I'm now going to be working on the glove box itself as I still need to wrap in leather along with installing the grab bar.

    Here are some pics:

    Attachment 90676Attachment 90677Attachment 90678Attachment 90679Attachment 90680Attachment 90681Attachment 90682Attachment 90683Attachment 90684
    Looks great! I just cut the last holes in my dash this morning, just need to cut out the glove box opening and then I will be ready to cover mine as well.

    Congrats on getting the powertrain installed - that's a huge milestone!
    Last edited by shark92651; 08-14-2018 at 03:36 PM.

  18. #218
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    Last edited by stevant; 08-15-2018 at 07:49 AM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  19. #219
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    Well looks like I'm hitting a brick wall with my headlight switch. I was holding off pushing the handle into the switch until necessary so I did it tonight to test my lights. Lights go on but they do not dim. They dim using the knob in the back on the harness. I then wanted to remove the knob off the switch so I can now pull it out the back of the dash and the set screw comes out but the knob will not budge. The car is not running nor is everything hooked up but I figured I would see what the dash looks like and I assume it should still dim from the headlight switch. Am I missing something? When I turn the switch all the way to the right it shuts off completely which I assume interior lights would come on once hooked up, but it does nothing when I turn it back left or right............any ideas? Bad switch??
    Last edited by stevant; 08-16-2018 at 12:31 AM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  20. #220
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    Rotating the knob only turns the courtesy lights on and off. No dimmer function. The gauges have their own dimmer knob that is usually mounted under the dash. To release the knob and shaft, look or feel for a very small button on the bottom of the head light switch. Push that and you can pull the knob and shaft out of the switch.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  21. #221
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    Hey Steve.....so I'm going crazy for no reason!!! LOL.....Thanks for the info. The book should say that. In fact the book says to disregard the knob in the back and use the headlight switch dimmer but not important now. I will mount the rear knob under the dash instead.

    Thanks again,

    Steve
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Well looks like I'm hitting a brick wall with my headlight switch. I was holding off pushing the handle into the switch until necessary so I did it tonight to test my lights. Lights go on but they do not dim. They dim using the knob in the back on the harness. I then wanted to remove the knob off the switch so I can now pull it out the back of the dash and the set screw comes out but the knob will not budge. The car is not running nor is everything hooked up but I figured I would see what the dash looks like and I assume it should still dim from the headlight switch. Am I missing something? When I turn the switch all the way to the right it shuts off completely which I assume interior lights would come on once hooked up, but it does nothing when I turn it back left or right............any ideas? Bad switch??
    You've received several responses here and in the other thread. But here's a couple more. These builds are a combination of various parts, with different interactions depending on parts chosen. The very traditional GM/Delco style headlight switch has the usual dimmer built into the knob. However, if you use the Speedhut gauges (probably the most common, but don't know for sure) they're all solid state and don't dim off the headlight switch dimmer. The Speedhuts have two light circuits: The needles are LED and don't dim. They're either on or off. The backlighting is electroluminescent and requires the AC inverter and a separate dimmer knob. So with this combination of parts, the recommendation is to leave the headlight dimmer full on, e.g. just before the stop where it turns on the courtesy lights. Works fine once you understand what's happening and get used to it. As far as the headlight switch itself, the knob and shaft "click" into place when you insert it. To remove, pull the knob all the way out to the second stop (headlights), then press the spring loaded button on the bottom. It should then release and come the rest of the way out. The knob can be removed from the shaft, but in my experience takes a little persuasion even once the set screw is loosened. It's either pressed in, has Loctite, or something. I put the shaft in a bench vise and tap off the knob with a block of wood. Once off the first time, not bad after that. Usually don't need to remove the knob. But depending on your dash thickness, the knob might not be all the way in even when it's off. So it's necessary to shorten the shaft at the knob end if that sort of thing bothers you.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
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  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post

    I love your engine bay. Never seen the remote oil filter mounted like that. Super clean.

    I noticed the location of the bolts holding your driver's side foot box access cover. Similar to mine. You might find it difficult to get to a couple of those once the body is on. No big deal but make a note now and when you mount the body, check to see if you can get to them. You might need to dremmel a little of the lip of the body to get to them. I have to do that to mine, unfortunately I didn't realize it until after the body was painted. Would have been stress free to do it before.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  24. #224
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    Funny you pointed that out. If you loook close enough one of the bolts is not in as I had seen a FFR mk4 a few weeks back and I noticed that it will be difficult to access those bolts. I appreciate you pointing out so I don’t forget to make modifications now that I can.

    Forte did the oil filter like that. I really like how clean it looks and easy it will be to change the oil. Leaves a lot of room up on the X frame too.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  25. #225
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    Ok, so I made more progress with my dash board. I was able to run my wires down to the high beam foot switch, when I click it, the high beam indicator lights on the dash, so looks like that’s going to be ok. I was also able to hook the wires up to the Russ Thompson turn signal. I’m having the button on the stork operate the horn....and yes it works!!!!! I tried my turn signals but the ignition was off so the dedicated dash indicators didn’t go on. I don’t have any lights on the corners of the car yet. After speaking to Edward B and getting schooled on SPST and DPST switches, my Lucas switch is going to need a diode to stop any backfeeding. What I did was take the pink hazard wire and run it to one side of my Lucas switch and then took the left hazard wire and connected it to the other side. When I clicked the Lucas switch, the dash arrow indicator came on, and it also worked for the right. Should it have blinked at this point? It did not blink for either side.

    Some pics of my wires.

    837F2D0D-DC17-4253-8CC9-EF28689B4211.jpgF50A3FD1-2CEF-4101-9DA2-ABE7CD8B36A2.jpg5694E0D5-1067-4325-B9DE-2F99693B7C6F.jpg2C328852-3AF6-4686-8754-0BEB9813E6EF.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  26. #226
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    If you have the standard thermal flashers in the RF fuse panels (the ones it comes with) you won't get flashing on the turn signals or hazards without actual lights connected. Those flashers need the current draw to function. If you're planning to use LED bulbs, then you'll want to switch to solid state flashers. Those will work without any lights attached and also with the low current draw LED's.

    For your hazards, you need the pink +12V supply attached to one side of the switch, and both left and right wires attached to the other side. The diodes prevent this connection from affecting the turn signals.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  27. #227
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    Thanks Paul..... yes I am going to connect both to the switch with a diode on each. Just wanted to see if it would work with just one with no diode. It did light though so the circuitry seems to be flowing but just not with all the components to make it correct at the moment. As for it not flashing, now I know why it’s not.

    Onward we go!!!!!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  28. #228
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    So more progress this weekend. I was able to get several things done. Completed my dash since my diodes came in for my flashers.

    IMG_3610.jpgIMG_3611.jpg

    I decided to put a ground bar behind the dash for ease of wiring my ground wires.

    IMG_3604.jpg

    I was able to complete my upper and lower rubber/steel hoses for my radiator. Boig Motorsports ceramic coated, they look great!!

    IMG_3600.jpgIMG_3601.jpg

    I also mounted my headers or at least started. Waiting for the gaskets to come in then I'll finish them up.

    IMG_3613.jpg

    Last but not least, mounted my dash panel and temporarily hooked up my lights to make sure all works......and it does!!!! Am I happy with that!!!

    IMG_3620.jpgIMG_3621.jpgIMG_3622.jpgIMG_3623.jpg

    I still need to complete my wiper motor hook up once my weatherpac connectors come in.

    All in all a lot of good progress made moving closer to my first start. One question I have is that when I put the ignition in the on position, all the gauges move a little but only the volt gauge and fuel gauge do a full sweep. Should they all be sweeping? Al gauges light up just fine. Just curious if they should all sweep.

    Thanks,

    Steve
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  29. #229
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    More progress made. I’m getting ready to start the car for the first time. I have completed all the wiring, all is working as it should. I used my Lucas switches for both the wipers and the hazards. Even though the Lucas switch is a SPST, the use of diodes like others have used allowed it to work just fine. Headers are installed along with my overflow for my coolant. I’m attaching a bunch of pics showing the little things I’ve also completed. Will be putting on the side pipes next week so once done it will be time to run the checklist for the first start!

    6392B12F-42E8-4A56-BD7E-3DD8795A2023.jpg672966E7-924E-42E9-85C4-EC45AC9E3B55.jpgF49D0871-AD23-4F19-A0EE-348BF386E519.jpg69703769-E141-4DEE-93BA-DC2F481381A8.jpgF7AFD237-5960-446D-961F-05B3158C8D88.jpg3D42B830-9E5A-4CAB-A466-48A4E238EE9B.jpg513B8A9D-3096-41F3-A7D3-1AF99A004259.jpg77AD1304-309D-4CEE-9885-4CA3504C19CF.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  30. #230
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    When it comes time to start my engine, oil pressure is key. Do I have to actually start the motor to see gauge pressure? I don’t want to run it with out any. I’m sure it will be fine as the engine was run prior to install but I don’t want to run an engine with no pressure.

    Just looking for a procedure to follow for my first start.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Steve
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    When it comes time to start my engine, oil pressure is key. Do I have to actually start the motor to see gauge pressure? I don’t want to run it with out any. I’m sure it will be fine as the engine was run prior to install but I don’t want to run an engine with no pressure.

    Just looking for a procedure to follow for my first start.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Steve
    Steve,

    You can crank the engine to prime the oil system. Just don't provide any fuel or spark. I pulled the connection from the fuel pump and pulled all the plug wires off the plugs. You won't see full pressure when cranking, but the gauge will read 10-20 psi.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
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    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  32. #232
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    Thanks Dave.......how long should I run those cranks with no fuel or spark?
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  33. #233
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    So more progress this weekend. I was able to get several things done. Completed my dash since my diodes came in for my flashers.

    IMG_3610.jpgIMG_3611.jpg
    I see you ran into the same problem I had with the glovebox and had to trim a bit of the flange on the RHS in order to get the dash into place. I actually relocated that hole a bit to the side.

  34. #234
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    Yes, but plenty of metal to secure. I have a total of ten fasteners plus the grab bar across the bottom secured the bottom flange in addition. All is good!!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Thanks Dave.......how long should I run those cranks with no fuel or spark?
    I crank mine over until I see pressure on the gauge... only takes about 10-15 seconds.
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  36. #236
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    Long time no post for me but that's ok as I've been building so all is good. Saturday is the day for the first start, weather permitting of course. I will be shooting a video if we move ahead that day. I have my temporary FFR steel pipes installed for now. My Gsas N Performance pipes will go on after the body install. Here are some pics of my progress. I've taken a lot more photos but didn't want to bore you with everything.

    IMG_3738.jpgIMG_3739.jpgIMG_3740.jpgIMG_3745.jpgIMG_3746.jpgIMG_3747.jpgIMG_3750.jpgIMG_3750.jpgIMG_3751.jpgIMG_3752.jpgIMG_3754.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  37. #237
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
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    I mounted my lights temporarily on fabricated brackets for the go-kart phase. Just had to have lights............

    IMG_3755.jpgIMG_3757.jpgIMG_3758.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

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