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Thread: Radiator Sheet Metal

  1. #1
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
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    Radiator Sheet Metal

    FFR Sheet Metal.jpg Attempting to install the radiator sheet metal and according to the picture in the manual the lower piece is supposed to go in between the nose frame rails, mine is larger. Has anyone had to "trim" the lower piece to fit in between the rails?
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

  2. #2
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Yes, all three radiator pieces require extensive trimming and massaging for them to come together and get somewhat close to sealing up the cowl. Radiator fitment/angle affects how these fit and come together. I spent several days getting them right before I powdercoated them.

    This recent thread is relevant ~ “Mk 3.1 Radiator Aluminum Question”

    Chris
    Last edited by cgundermann; 04-16-2018 at 06:22 PM.
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  3. #3
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    Yes I had to trim a couple inches off one side of the lower piece. I trimmed about 1/2” off th front of each side piece, in between the cuts for the quickjack bolts

  4. #4
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Sometimes itís easier to work with a cardboard (poster board) template and then trim your aluminum to match.

    You can only cut once on your aluminum.
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  5. #5

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    I just went through this, and did a thread a couple of days ago on it. I'm on my phone so can't post link to thread, but had the same title as yours. Cardboard is what I ended up doing to measure.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
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  6. #6
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
    Sometimes it’s easier to work with a cardboard (poster board) template and then trim your aluminum to match.

    You can only cut once on your aluminum.
    Yes! Plus cardboard doesn’t scratch things up as your working the shape into position...

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  7. #7
    DavidW's Avatar
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    I'll be making radiator aluminum eventually since the FFR pieces don't fit, they are close but just don't fit. They give us an idea of where they go and what they are supposed to look like, the fun part is making these pieces as part of the build.

  8. #8
    Straversi's Avatar
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    I made new side pieces for a different look but I did use the FFR lower piece. I've trimmed about 3/8" to 1/2" off the front edge to get it in place. Might trim a bit more if I add some kind of bulb seal on final installation. I trim 1/8" at a time with tin snips. Tin snips leave marks but the front edge is covered by the fiberglass inlet anyway.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  9. #9
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I ended up using the FFR pieces, trimmed to fit, but didn't like the overall result so I ended up using them as a backer support for a new wrap-around lower shroud:



    Powdercoated:



    Then I made paper templates:



    Which I then used to make a galvanized steel template:



    Which I then used to make the final shape out of stainless steel. Added some bling...:



    Rolled it into a ball to get through the opening...



    ..and installed:



    A piece of nomex covering the radiator for protection (not shown) completed the lower rad treatment.

    Details here:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...891#post217891
    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 04-17-2018 at 12:03 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
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  10. #10
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Wow David, That's impressive!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
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    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  11. #11
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Depending on the look you are trying to achieve, you can powdercoat those panels for effect. I painted my nomex radiator protector black, powdercoated the panels satin black and my car has a black/darked out maw. I also used hard vinyl weatherstripping on the lower edges and fabbed up block off plates to cover the oil cooler line holes.

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  12. #12
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I installed that panel on my MK3.1, by attaching it to my optional lower rad support bar, rather than the rad itself. This brings the widest part, below the quick jack frames.

  13. #13
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    oh man! Another idea! I need to stop looking at these things....

    PS: I really like the look of it.
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

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