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Thread: TONKS 347 the Baker's Build

  1. #81


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Just a note for others---the F panels can be installed after the front suspension with the only caveat being that you need to take into account gun access when determining rivet placement.

    Looking good Mitchell!

    Jeff

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  3. #82
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    I don't. I'm going with powder coat that is really close to the paint I used. I've seen it in the guy's shop and it looks great. I'm going to mask my frame up and gloss the F panel with several coats of automotive enamel. It won't match but it will be super close.
    Good. You have a plan. I will look forward to seeing your powder coat color. Your chosen color looks great! Does POR15 make anything close to the right color. This stuff ends up looking almost like powder coating. Just a thought.

    Proceed!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 12/15/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  4. #83
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    Rear End

    My Moser 8.8 solid axle came in before my actual kit. I unboxed it and put it on jack stands and that is where it sat until now. I really wanted to get it bolted to the frame since I have banged my shins on it more than twice. I got the NON synthetic gear oil and friction modifier they recommend and filled it up with the recommended amount.



    Then I got it bolted back together with the RTV gasket and torqued down. Thankfully I then left for a few hours instead of bolting it on immediately. I came back to find this.



    A leak. Talked to some other guys on the forum and on FB and the consensus was a bad front seal. It has apparently happened enough that it came up again and again. Some said it might just need to be spun daily and see, but that did not work. I called Moser and got the part number. It's a Ratech part number 6105. I have ordered it from Summit and just waiting for it to come it. While I was on the site I went ahead and ordered the cast diff cover. The cover that comes with the axle is just ugly to me. It looks cheap. I have also read that it holds heat more than the cast cover. Now I go back to drilling panels and wait on these parts. I'm not too upset though as I will get practice changing the gear oil and removing the cover again. All good things in the end.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  5. #84
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Seems to be a problem at Moser...
    "Stillwater" and I have become FFR buddies, I've been to his place, he to mine (he shlepped about 20 of my boxes on delivery day).

    Moser Pinion Seal Leak

    You may want to reach out & PM him about it...
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  6. #85
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    My pinion seal leaked to, I know how you feel. Mine was from a different vendor. Its not fun replacing that $5 part plus the fluid. When finding out how to do it you'll get the importance of the flange yoke nut torque and crush sleeve thickness, etc. Good luck!

  7. #86
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    Looking good so far. I'll be following your progress. I'm a novice too and will be starting my build in December.

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  9. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    My pinion seal leaked to, I know how you feel. Mine was from a different vendor. Its not fun replacing that $5 part plus the fluid. When finding out how to do it you'll get the importance of the flange yoke nut torque and crush sleeve thickness, etc. Good luck!
    Any and all help is greatly appreciated. The guy at Moser gave me some tips, but he talked like I knew what I was doing. That means I didn’t catch most of it.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  10. #88
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    You are navigating waters that I have never been in. Did you ever get your leak fixed? Sorry I have nothing to add to this part of the discussion!!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 12/15/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  11. #89
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    Finally an update!

    It has been a few weeks. Being a baker who owns two bakeries during the holiday season means NO free time. Couple that with a trip to Austin for one of the best F1 races I've seen in a while and I just have not been able to get back to the car. That all ended today and yesterday though. Hopefully that bodes well for the future. First I got my pinion seal changed out on my Diff only to find out that wasn't the leak. There is a fill hole on the side of the diff that was not screwed in all the way when they powder coated it. The small tiny leak was coming from there.



    This is the culprit right here. But on a brighter note I now know what it is like to change a pinion seal. I love the learning.
    While I was buying a $6 part I figured I might as well throw in a $150 part, you know. Kevin (Jazzman) says I've got the bug, and I have to say he is probably right. I hated the chrome cover that came with the Moser rear end, I just thought it looked so cheap. Once I read on the forum that it can hold heat that was all I needed to take the plunge. So I changed that out as well.
    The new diff cover came with a gasket that didn't fit. I asked online and all the guys said just use RTV so that is what I did.




    From this to...


    A huge improvement!
    Now that I had the diff leak figured out and handled I started the process of drilling the panels since I had put that off so long. After all of what I thought was my careful marking and labeling and photographing, I STILL missed a piece! On the inside of the Driver's Side footbox, there are TWO small aluminum angles, not one. I totally missed one and when I unscrewed the tapping screws and I heard it fall, then I had no idea where it went. It took more time and effort than I would like to mention to get it back together right. Here is what I am talking about



    These are TWO separate pieces divided where the dotted line is. From further back in the DS box it looks like this



    I started drilling and putting in clecos, I may have gotten carried away but I was having fun.



    I hope to continue my run of actually working on the car sometime soon.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  13. #90
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Cool

    Glad you got the leak worked out as well as some learning on the way! Thatís why we all bought into FFR in the first place right? Looking good Bud!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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  15. #91
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Don't beat yourself up too badly... I think it took me 4 or 5 attempts to get those two pieces right.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  16. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Don't beat yourself up too badly... I think it took me 4 or 5 attempts to get those two pieces right.
    I’m not telling how many attempts it took me. ��
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  17. #93
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    I’m not telling how many attempts it took me. ��
    Same here. Glad I'm not the only one...
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  18. #94
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I started drilling and putting in clecos, I may have gotten carried away but I was having fun.
    I'll agree... It's kinda fun & weird seeing the car look like a porcupine having a bad hair day!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  19. #95
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    Rear End

    A tiny bit of work done today. We are really gearing up for the holidays so I'm trying to squeeze in as much as I can.
    I went to install my rear brakes today, and looking at the instructions from Wilwood they are very specific that the U opening should point up and the mounting ears to the front. But doing that the holes did not line up. They are marked Left and Right so I double and triple checked that I wasn't putting them on the wrong side. Still nothing. I switched them to the opposite side and still nothing.

    Finally I started hunting threads and found the Factory Five install guide which says the U opening should point DOWN. Presto chango and they line up perfectly.

    I also started to install the rest but I have very little clearance at the back of my rotor to the caliper mounting bracket. Only about 1mm. Maybe since they all travel together that is enough but it just feels tight. I have used all the shims provided. I'm guessing I need more shims but wanted to reach out first before I do. I did install one of the calipers and it lines up well, but the clearance issue at the back still bothers me.



    What say you?
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  20. #96
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    I did not measure the clearance on mine, but did not have an issue. As long as the rotor is centered in the caliper it should be fine.

    I also had to mount mine "backwards" from what the wilwood illustrations show. Function should be the same as long as you can get a good path for brake lines and handbrake cables. I havent reached that part, myself.

  21. #97
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    "Need a clearance Clarence, and a vector Victor"... (sorry, just had to do it - you left the door wide open on that one)

    Those parts are locked in place, no need for concern. If they start to rub down the road, you've got bigger problems.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  23. #98
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    Power Steering

    Got the power steering rack installed as well as the outer tie rod ends. I had been waiting to do that since my tie rod ends had not come in yet. Finally they came in with my radiator. ONLY thing I am lacking now is my steering wheel.
    So as I unpacked the steering rack and looked at a couple of threads, as well as watching build video from FFR they kept talking about the bushings and sleeves not being in, but mine did have them, they just didn't fit by QUITE a lot. I knew they weren't right so I searched on the forum and found THIS POST from Yama-Bro that cleared it right up. It was a bit fiddly but I got it installed. THEN I went to install my tie rod ends and found that NO amount of fiddling was going to get them to go in. They looked like this

    I posted it online and, true to my noob status, was reminded that the ends move. DUH! I felt like the ignorant guy that I am, but with the guys help I got it installed, so no amount of ignorance is going to stop me apparently. AND now I have that knowledge. To be honest I really don't like the tie rod ends. The dust caps are pretty cheap and the piece itself seems kind of low quality. I may end up upgrading at some time. Next I installed the lower steering shaft and the flange and pillow bearings. All was well. I even was able to test the steering a little by moving the steering hub back and forth. What a great feeling.
    One last thing: I think I need more shims for my caliper bracket on my rear brakes. Even though the clearance is not an issue it doesn't line up in the middle of the caliper.

    I don't have any more shims, but can I just use a washer that is the same size to get the correct spacing?

    Real visual progress is amazing.

    Next is the pedal box for me after getting all of this lined up. Thanks for all the help so far. And this is all the "easy stuff." Just IMAGINE all the questions I'm going to have when it gets more advanced!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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  25. #99
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    Pedal Box

    Slow and steady wins the race.

    That's what I keep telling myself. I'm eating this elephant one bite at a time. Yesterday I got the pedal box started, installed the clutch quadrant, and temporarliy mounted the pedals. Mainly so I could mark the holes to drill for the support. An easy enough job. I can say that I missed something on my inventory. It's the nature of looking for a "clutch stop" when you have absolutely no idea what a clutch stop looks like. So I counted the pieces and thought I had them all, but alas. I emailed FF and they are sending it out of course. I can say they are so great with the support. So while I wait on the clutch stop I went ahead and mounted the pedal box and drilled the holes. The build is a lot of hurry up and wait, but that is fine. The end result will be driving my own Cobra, so it's worth it.
    One note about the clutch quadrant and support pieces. They are cut I guess by a laser and as Edward has pointed out they have SHARP edges and small burrs on each cut. I took the time to sand these down for my own safety as well as so they fit snugly against each other and the frame.



    I am also taking this time to make templates of all of the aluminum pieces that will get Thermo tec. I'm using the brown heavy paper that came in all the boxes. This way I can cut the pieces to fit and get them installed when I get the aluminum painted and back in.



    I'm also not using the carpet that came with the kit. I bought my own leather from leather hide store online

    and carpet to do a beige interior like this (only I'm sure it won't be anywhere NEAR as nice)



    I will use the templates for both the carpet and the insulation. Slow and steady, and loving every minute of it.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  26. #100
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    E Brake

    Today felt more productive that it actually was, but I'll take it. I started to install my E Brake. BE AWARE that the instructions for the E brake are a supplemental from the site, they are not in the manual. You can find them HERE. I knew I was going to do EdwardB's mod with the pulley because I don't like the look of the cables running under the frame. I have ordered two pulleys from McMaster. You can see that mod HERE. But I definitely need to look at my routing. You can see below that I have routed the cable to the rear, then across the shock body, then up. I added yellow where there would be zip ties. But using that route the cables are too long.



    What would you suggest for better routing so the length is correct?
    Also, according to everyone else's threads there are supposed to be e clips where the cable feeds into the caliper, but mine did not come with them either. Seems to be a problem I have read more than once. I got 1/2" e clips from Home Depot and got them clipped on here:



    Once I get the routing issue figured out I will dissassemble the handle and paint the bare metal to protect it, as other's have mentioned.
    Like I said it feels good to see stuff like that in action and to make these small strides, but the next step is usually to take it apart to do something else. In this case I will paint and reroute. Really not sure about the routing though. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  27. #101
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    Thanks for pointing out that we need additional instructions for the e-brake, Mitchell - i was glancing ahead in the manual and feeling like i was missing something! Now I know why.

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  29. #102
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    Forgot I didn't post a picture of the E clip installed. My one complaint, if I can have a complaint, about FFR, the kit, and the manual, is that they all make certain assumptions about the knowledge of the builders. That is probably for the best, as you probably shouldn't attempt this if you have as little working knowledge as I. But what about the hard heads like me who want to build it anyway? This little clip was not in my kit, and is not mentioned anywhere in the manual or supplemental, but it is still necessary. The way I look at it if it is necessary it should be mentioned. But that is just me.

    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  30. #103

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    My one complaint, if I can have a complaint, about FFR, the kit, and the manual, is that they all make certain assumptions about the knowledge of the builders. But what about the hard heads like me who want to build it anyway?
    Hard Heads Like You Usually Stuff A Chevy In It!

    The fact is that We Are All Hard Heads and in the end our heads will be even harder.

    You've Got This Brother & The F-5 Family Is Here To Cheer You On!

    https://youtu.be/NhRHwAbtrt0
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-16-2018 at 10:08 PM.

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  32. #104
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    My one complaint, if I can have a complaint, about FFR, the kit, and the manual, is that they all make certain assumptions about the knowledge of the builders. That is probably for the best, as you probably shouldn't attempt this if you have as little working knowledge as I. But what about the hard heads like me who want to build it anyway? This little clip was not in my kit, and is not mentioned anywhere in the manual or supplemental, but it is still necessary. The way I look at it if it is necessary it should be mentioned. But that is just me.


    You are correct in that FFR makes an assumption that a builder has some mechanical aptitude, and some experience working on automobiles.
    My line of thinking on this:
    Yes, it is a "kit".
    No, you cannot start at page 1 in the manual, part 00001, and attach part 00002 to part 00001, then 00003 to 00002, continue, and eventually have a perfectly running new car.
    However...
    If a potential builder must have their hammer labeled "Hold at this End", they should probably consider another project.
    If you can assemble IKEA furniture or a kid's presents on Dec 24th without parts left over, you could probably build one of these cars.

    FFR has done a fabulous job of engineering a car that someone with (currently) limited aptitudes and minimal tools can assemble - especially if they have local help, or by using resources like this forum.

    You have demonstrated the most important aspect of diving into this pool - the intelligence of knowing when to stop and ask a question before potentially making an expensive or life-threatening mistake.
    Exercise what my wife calls "Sitsin' & Thinkin". She catches me just staring motionless at something for a few minutes. "You Sitsin & Thinkin again?". I've got the gears turning in my head - thinking about how something works, how it's routed, what potentially could be in the way/foul it, etc.

    Someone has probably done what you're stumped on before. That's why this forum is a fabulous resource. Help is just a click away.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  34. #105
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    Pedal Box

    If you haven't noticed yet, my free time during the holidays is pretty much non existent. These are busy busy times for us at the bakeries, and pretty busy times for us at home as well. But in the midst of all of that I found a teensy amount of time to work on the car. I did receive my Lokar clevis and the pulley wheels to do edwardb's E Brake mod, but I haven't had time to do anything other than paint the bare metal and reinstall those parts. I'm hoping to get to the mod this week, but that may be a tall order. Here is the painted brake at least.



    While I waited on my parts to come in for the E Brake mod I did get the "clutch stop" in from FF, and much to my surprise this is what they sent



    Well I HAD all that, I just didn't know that was a "Clutch stop." I looked again at the manual and got nowhere, so I looked at the supplementals online and found it. I still don't think I would have known this is what they were talking about though even after reading the supplemental again. I have read the manual cover to cover AND read several build threads, a few more than once, but STILL I am surprised by things like this. So I got the clutch stop installed as per the supplemental and got the pedal box installed. I then installed the master cylinders.



    It's funny. I have heard the term Brake Balance all my life, and I could even understand the concept, but nothing beats actually seeing that brake balance bar and making adjustments yourself. Now I get it. Totally makes sense.

    One thing that I don't have pictures of but wanted to mention is the flange bearing. My pedal box mount rests just on top of the flange bearing. This prevents the pedal box mount from being completely flush with the front of the DS pedal box. I guess that part is considered the DS firewall? I will get pictures and update. But from what I see I am either going to have to cut a small notch in the pedal box mount or I'm going to have to trim the top of the interior part of the flange bearing. Are there other solutions? Have I installed something wrong? I'll update with pictures tomorrow if I'm not explaining it well.
    I'm aiming for at least 4 uninterrupted hours a week until after Christmas. If I can manage that it will be impressive even to me!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  35. #106
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Forgot I didn't post a picture of the E clip installed. My one complaint, if I can have a complaint, about FFR, the kit, and the manual, is that they all make certain assumptions about the knowledge of the builders. That is probably for the best, as you probably shouldn't attempt this if you have as little working knowledge as I.
    Thanks for posting this. I realized my kit didn't come with the E clips either and i haven't installed them. I remember when I installed the e brake cables they popped in and felt pretty secure. I hadn't given it another thought until I read your post. I'll be off the to hardware store soon!

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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  37. #107
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    Per my manual, I think the steering flange bearing should be mounted on the outside of the box. I installed mine on the inside to get a bit of room to remove / reinstall the steering shaft, and had to grind the top of the flange to fit. Yes, it does not fit on the inside and needs to be modified.

    Here's a pic of the original against the modified...

    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  38. #108
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    I struggled with the steering flange as well. Even tried moving to the inside of the foot box, but found the interference problems you describe. In the end I found the one and only orientation of the steering shaft that allowed assembly. For me the shaft end towards the steering wheel had to be positioned in toward the engine and slightly up. Of course to do that the pedal box needs to be removed or at least loosened. Then the shaft needs to be rotated until enough clearance appears to couple the spline. Frustrating at first but once assembled the design is impressive.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  39. #109
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    Per my manual, I think the steering flange bearing should be mounted on the outside of the box. I installed mine on the inside to get a bit of room to remove / reinstall the steering shaft, and had to grind the top of the flange to fit. Yes, it does not fit on the inside and needs to be modified.

    Here's a pic of the original against the modified...

    Yes that looks like the exact cut I may have to make. I’m going to dive into your thread tomorrow. One of the thousands I have missed.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  40. #110
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miller7448 View Post
    I struggled with the steering flange as well. Even tried moving to the inside of the foot box, but found the interference problems you describe. In the end I found the one and only orientation of the steering shaft that allowed assembly. For me the shaft end towards the steering wheel had to be positioned in toward the engine and slightly up. Of course to do that the pedal box needs to be removed or at least loosened. Then the shaft needs to be rotated until enough clearance appears to couple the spline. Frustrating at first but once assembled the design is impressive.
    Let me look through your posts. Having a hard time wrapping my mind around it.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  41. #111
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Yes that looks like the exact cut I may have to make. I’m going to dive into your thread tomorrow. One of the thousands I have missed.
    The build has been stalled lately, waiting for the body to be done at Whitby's. They said 6-9 months, now up to 10 and no word... [sigh]... another builder said his took 16 months.

    Also, even after moving the bearing to the inside, I still had to loosen the rack to get the steering shaft apart for best spline alignment. So inside or outside doesnt really matter except this fit detail.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  42. #112


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    The flange bearing mounts to the outside (engine bay side) of the footbox front wall and for clarification does not sandwich it; i.e. both retainer halves are on the same side of the wall. The collar with the setscrews faces rearward.

    Jeff

  43. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    The flange bearing mounts to the outside (engine bay side) of the footbox front wall and for clarification does not sandwich it; i.e. both retainer halves are on the same side of the wall. The collar with the setscrews faces rearward.

    Jeff
    Mind. Blown. THANK YOU!
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, Blueprint 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, Wilwoods, Power Steering, RT turn signals, FFR soft top
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

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