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Thread: Mounting over riders with rear threaded coupler mod

  1. #1
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Mounting over riders with rear threaded coupler mod

    Now that I am mostly complete with my running go cart, it's time to focus on the body and exterior work. I ordered the over riders from FFR and earlier I used the threaded coupler nut mod in the rear to avoid dropping the tank. Do I need to use threaded rods roughly the same length as the bolts that FFR supplies for the quick jacks? I am going to use the over riders only, no other bumpers. Also, are there any particular grommets or finish parts that people recommend rather than just using washers? Thanks for any input.

  2. #2
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    I had cut my threaded bolt stock to fitment length after the body was fitted in its final position. Left enough threads so my black chrome acorn nuts were properly engaged. Da Bat did my paint and he used metal washers over rubber washers where it compressed against the body paint. I’ve used self-ceiling washers for other applications (they have a slight degree of angle for compression and a rubber washer bonded to it) and they would work...

    442DD49B-DE34-407C-9040-1D45C8B8EB19.jpeg16B847A0-04CF-48C5-AE2F-3C2E51F910FE.jpeg

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Now that I am mostly complete with my running go cart, it's time to focus on the body and exterior work. I ordered the over riders from FFR and earlier I used the threaded coupler nut mod in the rear to avoid dropping the tank. Do I need to use threaded rods roughly the same length as the bolts that FFR supplies for the quick jacks? I am going to use the over riders only, no other bumpers. Also, are there any particular grommets or finish parts that people recommend rather than just using washers? Thanks for any input.
    Shark,

    If I am reading your request correctly, you are going with OVER RIDERS.

    I struggled with a solution for this a few months ago. I was determined to stay with the rear body mount fix, as first described by Kliner, to avoid having to drop the gas tank.

    The main problem is that the OVER RIDERS are threaded. They do not slip over the threaded rod like QUICK JACKS.

    Also, be sure to note that the OVER RIDERS are front and rear specific. Don't ask me why I say this. The front OVER RIDERS can be threaded as intended because the front jack bolt heads can be reached and screwed into the OVER RIDER. Easy!
    For the rear, in theory the threaded rod could be screwed back into the threads on the OVER RIDER, but I found it impossible to get tight and flush with the stainless spacers. Particularly, since there are 2 rods to thread.

    I will send pictures later.

    Here is what I did and it worked:

    1) Rear OVER RIDER - I drilled out the threads. Now I converted, used 1/2 inch stainless threaded rod but works with 7/16 as well. The OVER RIDERS are polished stainless. Drilling stainless is tough. Have a good cobolt drill bit and use cutting oil. Painter tape the OVER RIDER and secure in a vice with plastic vice jaw inserts.

    2) Then I put a nut behind the OVER RIDER plate, first by hand, then used a FLEX Head wrench to tighten it. It takes some patients and fiddling but it is doable. Everything tightens up nicely.
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 12-04-2018 at 12:06 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Okay here are the pics:

    I failed to mention that you may have to adjust the threaded rod lengths. They have to be long enough to get a lock washer and nut behind the OVER RIDER plate, but be short enough to get the nut on.

    I also provided a pic of the SS washers I used from McMaster. They have rubber on the one side that goes against the body.
    Note the double nut (one as a lock nut) technique which is helpful in threading on or off the rod. And the Flex Wrenches used.


    Washer.jpegRfix.jpegSpacerWasher.jpegThreading.jpegORdrilled.jpegORnut.jpegFlexWrench.jpeg


    Remember, it all has to be convenient to take off as well!
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 12-04-2018 at 01:13 AM.

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    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    My bust, I didn’t read close enough...

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

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    I just use threaded rod the length of the bolts from FFR. Then I use a lock nut on the frame. The sleeves go over the rod and the whole thing just slips in place. No need to drop tank. You can lock rod to over rider with a nut. See post #76

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...d-Thread/page2

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    Thanks Shark for asking this question. I have the Kliner mod and I will also have this same challenge. I was thinking exactly what Scott Zackowski did but i was unsure if it would work out. So thank you Scott for actually doing it and posting your solution.

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    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input everyone. As most things on this build, it's more difficult than it should be

  9. #9
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I just use threaded rod the length of the bolts from FFR. Then I use a lock nut on the frame. The sleeves go over the rod and the whole thing just slips in place. No need to drop tank. You can lock rod to over rider with a nut. See post #76

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...d-Thread/page2
    Seems like a good option.

    If I am seeing correctly how you attached the threaded rod to the frame with a nut, for me that still would be difficult to access the nut to tighten it.

    Having said that it is also difficult to tighten the nut on OVER RIDER once on the car as well.

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    ILPBFoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Now that I am mostly complete with my running go cart, it's time to focus on the body and exterior work. I ordered the over riders from FFR and earlier I used the threaded coupler nut mod in the rear to avoid dropping the tank. Do I need to use threaded rods roughly the same length as the bolts that FFR supplies for the quick jacks? I am going to use the over riders only, no other bumpers. Also, are there any particular grommets or finish parts that people recommend rather than just using washers? Thanks for any input.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...th-coupler-mod

    Here is the Kleiner bumper and over rider mod to go along with his nut coupler mod.

    Steve
    Mk4 Roadster #9319, complete kit Received 4-10-18. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, w Holley 850 Double Pumper, manual Choke, 501 hp with 498 lb-ft torque. TKO 600 0.64 OD

  11. #11
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    This was my solution with lots of pictures.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...-gas-tank.html

    George

  12. #12
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Looks like everybody came up with similar solutions.

    Kliner's fix as depicted in the link above is excellent but only suitable if going with bumper along with the OVER RIDERS.

  13. #13
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Thanks For Posting Gang!

    Your work and documentation is allowing this Dark Side Guy the ability to not have to think about this/these solutions.

    Thanks Again From The Dark-Dart Side

  14. #14
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I did mine slightly different, being it was back almost 10 years ago, I don't know if Jeff's mod had even been invented yet..lol.

    Being the over-riders were threaded, I used the jam nut method, from under the car to thread the sleeved rod into the over-rider. These two nuts also allowed some adjustment using the sleeves, to fit the lower body better, (to the lower trunk lid). A ny-lock nut on the end of the rod, tightened everything up snug, and made a slightly duller projectile, should I ever be rear ended. Being the fuel tank is what the rod end would hit..

    IMG_3153.JPG
    IMG_3154.JPG

  15. #15
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    As most things on this build, it's more difficult than it should be
    How often do you plan on taking the body off? I plan on pretty much never. I have pulled my tank a couple times. Besides painting, I have never pulled the body.
    I timed dropping the tank once. It was something like 12 minutes not counting jacking the car up. Dropping the tank is no big deal as long as it is reasonably empty.
    Is it worth it? You're the one choosing the hard way on this one

  16. #16

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    Seems like a lot of work for avoiding dropping the tank. I build these all the time and always drop one side of the tank at a time. Loosen both sides then completely remove a bolt from one side. put the over rider bolts in and tighten. reinstall the tank bolt and repeat for the other side.
    Mike

  17. #17
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    Seems like a lot of work for avoiding dropping the tank. I build these all the time and always drop one side of the tank at a time. Loosen both sides then completely remove a bolt from one side. put the over rider bolts in and tighten. reinstall the tank bolt and repeat for the other side.
    Mike
    I guess it is personal preference.

    I find it extremely annoying to drop the tank. Kliner's Fix once in place makes it super easy to take things apart. And for me it is a TIME SAVER.
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 12-07-2018 at 12:23 PM.

  18. #18
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Zackowski View Post
    I guess it is personal preference. I find it extremely annoying to drop the tank. Kliner's Fix once in place makes it super easy to take things apart. And for me it is a TIME SAVER.
    Yes, for sure each to his own.
    The equipment a person has available in their shop could play a role as well. I don't have a lift, or a cradle jack to support the tank, especially with fuel in it. I'd be doing it all from under the car, with jack stands and a floor jack, lying on my back...
    Another reason for me personally, is safety. I do not like handling anything that has the possibility of spilling fuel on me, or in my shop. I can't see being able to lower it down enough, without pulling my filler hose off.
    Then, there is always a risk that there is not enough slack on the vent, supply or return hoses, and one of them pulling off, or being damaged. Likewise with any of the wires leading to the sender, or fuel pump, or grounds... Murphy's Law always come into play, when your about 20 minutes from home, and the car shuts off, for no apparent reason..

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