25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: taking it to paint!

[JohnK]

Congratulations!!! That's so exciting. Hopefully that's the end of your coyote headaches and you can wrap up your awesome build.

[zarnold]

Awesome news!! Congrats!

[BradC]

Congrats!!! What a huge relief huh?

[facultyofmusic]

Congrats! What a relief!

[ydousurf]

Todd, I think we're all so happy for you! Way to stay with it and find the solution. You better get a plate, eh, maybe just a tshirt - PERSEVERANCE! Can't wait to see it all completed.

Doug

[toadster]

argh, the coyote still only firing on bank #1 and partially on bank #2... hoping Ford ships a new ECU at this point...

we got a data log of the engine running 'normally' on startup then bank #2 shuts down -hopefully Lund can figure something out on what's triggering the shutdown

back to more 'things' on the car... we were waiting to put in the heater hoses till the engine was better, at this point we hope we're past the point of a mechanical issue

this engine bay is way over packed, it's making things pretty tricky to mount any more but I think we've hit the pinnacle

Ran the heater hoses to the Thermomotion valve, seems to be working properly, got some heater hose wrap that somewhat dresses up an otherwise bland looking hose

1 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black




Ryan got to drive Dave's cobra at Cars & Coffee on Saturday, very nice of Dave to do this and Ryan was very excited to have the opportunity!!

[toadster]

got some more news from Ford today, 99% sure they'll be shipping a new PCM out to me by Friday

also, got the interior parts back from the upholstery shop, they had to re-do the door cards as the FFR ones from the kit were absolute garbage, I'm amazed they charge $199 for those door cards - horrible (see link)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post470855

here are the rebuilt ones - I would have just done Herb's panels, but I wanted all matching stitching between the seats, etc.


the shop redid the suede and matched the diamond stitching and also put in some door pockets

overall pretty stoked with how all the items came out!!



fingers crossed that Friday results in a good Coyote start and we can finalize this part of the journey!!!

[Ted G]

Looks great and glad Ford is working with you. Just blame the delay on the "Strike".

[facultyofmusic]

got some more news from Ford today, 99% sure they'll be shipping a new PCM out to me by Friday

Thank god your PCM is mounted on the passenger footwell and not tucked between the engine and the firewall :P

[BradC]

Interior looks great! I hope the PCM does the trick!

[toadster]

while waiting for the new ECU from Ford, I think we've squeezed everything on the firewall that can fit... the last part was the HVAC blower fan, getting those screws in there was a PITA, I think we created some new swear words LOL



just need to wire the blower motor and I think we're done with all the behind dash wiring YAHOO!

hope to get the footbox carpet in next, was waiting on the upholstered parts to arrive to ensure we have good overlap/coverage in that space - I think we're good now

also did a re-check on the front alignment, set everything to the FFR manual specs so hopefully good enough for go-karting!

[460.465USMC]

I was truly bummed to read the wiring harness did not fix the issue. Hoping the ECU is the charm. You're a man of great perseverance. Hang in there!

[toadster]

I was truly bummed to read the wiring harness did not fix the issue. Hoping the ECU is the charm. You're a man of great perseverance. Hang in there!

sadly the ECU didn't fix this either

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tinues-to-bite

[toadster]

had some time to redo the ground, just to quell the 'not enough grounds' issue - this one is on the rear of the driver head into the frame, also added another ground on the passenger side head into the frame as well




also finished up the A/C - Heater blower wiring should be sealed up now and functioning


travelling this week, Ford and Lund still stumped on the Coyote, may end up taking it to a local Tuner/Coyote Expert (Shaun @ AED)

[Nigel Allen]

Dumb question regarding engine issue; what is the oil pressure when running? Have you modified the lubrication system in any way?

[toadster]

Dumb question regarding engine issue; what is the oil pressure when running? Have you modified the lubrication system in any way?

totally normal, 80psi on the gauge
only modification for the engine is removing the CMCV valves

I haven't even been able to test the engine fan, the temps only get up to about 130F, not enough to kick on the radiator fan - the engine in total has run maybe a total of 20-25 minutes from dozens of starts
I don't want it to idle needlessly, with 1/2 the engine firing, so temps never get high enough...

[toadster]

well, we spent the better part of last week troubleshooting just about everything on the Coyote, from injectors, coils, fusebox, PDU, fuel rail, logging the ECU, continuity, added grounds... still runs weird

I'll be taking the car up to AED which is only 12 miles from here hoping that Shaun can determine what we're missing...

after all that electrical fun, worked on more carpeting in the footbox so I can get the lower dash affixed and be done with that



also put the sidepipes back on, the open headers (although catted) were getting pretty tiresome on the ears... used the Kleiner (and others) method of using some stainless bolts and brass coupling nuts, the brass doesn't rust, and won't back off unless you want it to - they look pretty beefy and the 3/8" fits the Coyote headers and Gasn' Pipes very nicely - will still need to determine spacers/angles once painted but for now with hangers, things look pretty solid

here are the parts I ordered

3/8-16 x 2" Socket Head Cap Screws Allen Socket Hex Drive Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8 A2-70 $10 for 10
Brass Hex Nut - 3/8-16 In. $16 for 25



I'd recommend going with a 1.5" bolt
3/8-16 x 1-1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws Allen Socket Hex Drive Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8 A2-70, Fully Threaded, 10PCS $7

[Ted G]

Todd, i love that and when I start my winter projects, I think I'll do this modification as well. Nice and hoping that AED will figure out the issues you are having.


Btw, did you try to run it with side pipes on? Just wondering if that may affect the AFR sensors

[toadster]

Todd, i love that and when I start my winter projects, I think I'll do this modification as well. Nice and hoping that AED will figure out the issues you are having.


Btw, did you try to run it with side pipes on? Just wondering if that may affect the AFR sensors

this is my forever winter project LOL

we've done sidepipes throughout the process, same issue... didn't affect AFR since the O2 is in front of the cats

[toadster]

update on the Coyote https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post542851
needless to say, spent more money to get 4 new fuel injectors for Bank2

spend a few minutes tonight putting the Stage 8 locking washers on the passenger headers, that side has always been hot and had several cycles

will most likely finish up carpet this weekend now that the engine will most likely not be coming out of the car

[Alan_C]

update on the Coyote https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post542851
spent a few minutes tonight putting the Stage 8 locking washers on the passenger headers, that side has always been hot and had several cycles

How did the substitution of the locking fasteners for the studs go? I have my Stage 8 locking fasteners on the bench waiting for install. I have headers from Ultimate Headers as my Coyote is going into a Mustang. The header design blocks direct access to some of the bolts on each side. I have the copper anti-seize planned as a precaution. Any recommendations you have I would like to hear.

[toadster]

How did the substitution of the locking fasteners for the studs go? I have my Stage 8 locking fasteners on the bench waiting for install. I have headers from Ultimate Headers as my Coyote is going into a Mustang. The header design blocks direct access to some of the bolts on each side. I have the copper anti-seize planned as a precaution. Any recommendations you have I would like to hear.

removing the coyote studs was simple enough, Stage 8 recommends anti-seize on the bolts



the equal length headers are similar to what you describe, the headers block access with most sockets, so I used a mix of wrenches

Klein Tools 65200 Ratchet Set


GEARWRENCH 1/4 Inch Drive Gimbal Ratchet


WORKPRO 1/4" Drive Flex Head Ratchet



7/16 Inch TIGHTSPOT Ratchet Wrench


the passenger side is relatively easy, the driver side will require some contortions and jacking up the front end for sure to get to the 3 rearmost bolts

[toadster]

[John Ibele]

Really, really happy for you, Todd. What a great feeling. Your persistence was commendable through the whole saga, and I wish you steady forward progress as you finish off your build.

[Its Bruce]

All injectors on one bank... I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it in your posts. Congrats on seeing this through and your now operational go kart.

Did his tool isolate the injectors from the Ford harness during testing? It's almost as if they're wired to fail an entire bank if one goes out.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Todd! What a great feeling to get to the root cause. You persevered and conquered. So impressive. I look forward to seeing you go-kart. Well done!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Todd,
Happy to hear that you've made progress but as someone who spent a decade and a half in the engineering test labs at GM doing both destructive and durability testing I have to say you really can't stick a fork in it until you can answer the question of "why?" As I said earlier, the likelihood of all 4 injectors just randomly being bad is a statistical impossibility. Something caused it, either electrically or mechanically (i.e. clogged, perhaps with debris left in the line when the hoses were made up). I'd sure want to do the forensic investigation to determine what that was.

Good luck!

Jeff

[toadster]

Todd,
Happy to hear that you've made progress but as someone who spent a decade and a half in the engineering test labs at GM doing both destructive and durability testing I have to say you really can't stick a fork in it until you can answer the question of "why?" As I said earlier, the likelihood of all 4 injectors just randomly being bad is a statistical impossibility. Something caused it, either electrically or mechanically (i.e. clogged, perhaps with debris left in the line when the hoses were made up). I'd sure want to do the forensic investigation to determine what that was.

Good luck!

Jeff

Hey Jeff - totally agree with you on this! All the lines were cleaned out prior to closing them up, at least with compressed air. Even if there was gunk in the lines, why would it only choose the driver side?
Electrically, I believe all the injectors share the same 12V wire, but each injector (maybe bank of injectors?) has a driver that opens/closes the circuit to ground, Ford can maybe dig into this when I return the old ECU.

since we determined the issue on Wednesday afternoon, Ford Performance was already closed when I sent the email - so I will follow up this week with them
hoping they'll somehow recoup my cost for the (4) injectors ~$133, and I'll have them pay for shipping of the old ECU and 2 harnesses

[Ted G]

Congrats Todd! Sounds great and can't wait to escort you to Cars and Coffee in go-kart stage.

[Hoooper]

Since you have a new harness and a new ECU I wouldnt worry too much about it. My guess would be all 4 injectors share the same ground path after the ECU drivers and there was an issue in the harness with the ground that led to the failure of those injectors. Possible the drivers themselves were bad and friend the injectors but I think that seems kind of unlikely to happen to have 4 bad drivers at the same time.

[BradC]

Ok, I told you I was holding off on saying congrats again this time but I think we're in the clear. Congrats!!

Add me to the go-kart convoy to CnC with Ted!!

[Ted G]

well, we spent the better part of last week troubleshooting just about everything on the Coyote, from injectors, coils, fusebox, PDU, fuel rail, logging the ECU, continuity, added grounds... still runs weird

I'll be taking the car up to AED which is only 12 miles from here hoping that Shaun can determine what we're missing...

after all that electrical fun, worked on more carpeting in the footbox so I can get the lower dash affixed and be done with that



also put the sidepipes back on, the open headers (although catted) were getting pretty tiresome on the ears... used the Kleiner (and others) method of using some stainless bolts and brass coupling nuts, the brass doesn't rust, and won't back off unless you want it to - they look pretty beefy and the 3/8" fits the Coyote headers and Gasn' Pipes very nicely - will still need to determine spacers/angles once painted but for now with hangers, things look pretty solid

here are the parts I ordered

3/8-16 x 2" Socket Head Cap Screws Allen Socket Hex Drive Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8 A2-70 $10 for 10
Brass Hex Nut - 3/8-16 In. $16 for 25



I'd recommend going with a 1.5" bolt
3/8-16 x 1-1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws Allen Socket Hex Drive Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8 A2-70, Fully Threaded, 10PCS $7

Todd, I'm doing this modification and ordering these parts. Did you use any lock washers or thread locker? What about just flat washers?

[toadster]

Todd, I'm doing this modification and ordering these parts. Did you use any lock washers or thread locker? What about just flat washers?

nope just nuts and bolts, the brass acts as a lock since it's softer than the stainless and won't rust either

[Mike.Bray]

nope just nuts and bolts, the brass acts as a lock since it's softer than the stainless and won't rust either

And "lock" washers don't actually lock anything, they're just a false sense of security.

[toadster]

after a week of travel for work - a little more time back in the build

as many of you know, my a/c installation is customized from the Gen3 coupe kit
in hindsight knowing what I know now, I'd custom build from scratch to minimize waste

now that the engine is running properly (getting it dyno tuned next week) I wanted to see if the A/C lines will hold pressure...

I got a vacuum pump and A/C kit on amazon
Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Accessories (KZTA350F+) ~$140


I am able to pull a good vacuum ~30 in/hg but when turning off the pump, it would return to non-vacuum within a few minutes
in another thread, it was suggested that I pull it all apart and redo the o-rings and use a better sealant

Refrigeration Technologies RT201B Nylog Gasket/Thread Sealant ~$12 and super goopy compared to the stuff in the kit!

Car Air Conditioning Compressor Seals O-Ring Kit ~$9 and way more o-rings than I'll ever need!


I pulled all connections apart, and redid all the rings/seals and tightened them down


This time, the vacuum holds better but will leak down over 30 minutes...

in the essence of time, I found a shop that does custom A/C work so we trailered it down yesterday... IMHO a few of the fittings I had to bend to fit the curvature I needed and maybe aren't seating well
it stinks to have all the tools and still take it to a shop, but it's a learning process and I don't want to fight in the engine bay for A/C leaks in the future... hopefully buttoned up today!

fingers crossed!

Next friday I'll take the car to AED in Cameron Park, CA to have the car dyno tuned by Shaun - he's the coyote expert that found my dead injectors and I wanted to support his shop

I'll be selling the HP Tuner programmer and ditching the LUND tune over email... sadly no refund, but I'm just frustrated with their process

[k-roy]

When I put my AC lines on vacuum, I lost pressure through the pump. Are you closing the system off (two knobs under the gauges) to shut out the vacuum pump? (Leaving the two access port knobs open to read the pressure)

[toadster]

When I put my AC lines on vacuum, I lost pressure through the pump. Are you closing the system off (two knobs under the gauges) to shut out the vacuum pump? (Leaving the two access port knobs open to read the pressure)

the shop verified that my one adapter that went into the compressor got x-threaded, this was my concern as I had to bend the adapter to meet the curvature of the hose - but must have over-corrected

I ordered a new adapter and a new adapter for the compressor as well - major bummer! everything else was good though!

[toadster]

while waiting for my a/c parts to come in, figured I'd finish up more interior work

carpeted the forward floor of the driver and some of the passenger footbox, will do the sides of the cockpit before I do the biggest floor pieces to keep the seams to a minimum... always love the smell of Super 77 in the morning



also attached the transmission tunnel cover, using some HD velcro - will see if it holds enough, may have to revert to screws after some test drives



lastly, we modified the lower dash to get mounted for (hopefully) the last time...

we tightened down the billet button rings and my son 3D printed a spacer for behind the start button to keep it secure
we also had to bore out the leather for the mounting screws and adapt the subwoofer dial on the driver side - thankfully all our quick disconnect adapters worked great - all electricals passed!

We really had to fight this as we didn't fully account for the extra space required for the leather and foam wrap but things lined up after some coercion

I think the lower dash turned out AMAZING!


next up will be to situate the shifter boot and attach the trim ring and finish up the carpeting...

last items will be to run the vent hoses, my son is 3d printing some adapters so we get 1 vent in the dash, and 1 vent into the footbox per side

[460.465USMC]

I agree your lower dash, AND dash, AND transmission cover look AMAZING. Kudos to you and your son.

One more congratulatory WHOOP your Coyote is running solid!

[toadster]

I agree your lower dash, AND dash, AND transmission cover look AMAZING. Kudos to you and your son. One more congratulatory WHOOP your Coyote is running solid!

thank YOU! its starting to feel 'real' again!

Last night, I did a bit more carpet while my son printed out some custom 3D tubes for the dash A/C vents - it's going to be epically hidden behind the dash, but I'm SO impressed with his 3D printing skills!!!


also, wanted to test my flasher for the 3rd brake light (CHMSL) - dumb video, but it works