Lets gooooooo engine is in, all brake lines are ran and mounted, caliper setup is complete, pedalbox is welded in, in theory I could roll the car down a hill and it would stop and steer!
Why I decided to build a Factory Five, and who am I?
My interest has always been with JDM stuff, but sometime in highschool, one of my best friend's father built a Factory Five '33 Hot Rod with a Gen1 Coyote. That car was SO cool, that I started to dive really deep into the super rich American car culture. My first time seeing the Coupe was actually on Factory Five's website - I didn't even know anything about Cobras! Over the next few years dipping in and out of school and life, my dream Factory Five flipped from the 818C, to the GTM, back to a Cobra, but ultimately I settled on the Coupe. Fastfoward to today, sometime in December of 2020, I decided that, if there was any time to build the car, it would be now.
I'm a freelance artist running a vinyl shop - so I'll probably end up drawing my Coupe at some point... but I've decided to save that for AFTER I finish the car hahah
So, what am I building?
As an artist by trade and a JDM guy at heart, my plan for the car mostly revolves around the aesthetics of the car rather than the performance - which isn't to say it'll be slow, I don't think ANY Factory Five can be slow considering the usual powerplant offerings and the sheer minimal weight of EVERY F5 car haha... That being said... this is my first experience with anything American, and I wanted something special. So whatever results from this project will hopefully reflect my experiences building Japanese cars and a new interest in stuff from this side of the pond!
At first when I pulled the trigger on the kit back in December, I just wanted to experience something American for the first time - so I had pretty simple plans for the car. I wanted a Coyote-powered coupe, and some cool Japanese wheels, but aside from that I didn't have a lot of other plans.
But I guess in the months in between I kinda let my mind run wild with the car and here we are haha!
Around the beginning of the 1980s in Japan, tuning culture, especially top speed racing, was exploding in popularity in Japan. The best drivers and the most well-known tuners would drive what's known as the Tomei Expressway in everything from Datsun Z cars to imported Panteras. It's actually a really interesting history to what is essentially the beginning of the Japanese car tuning craze - lots of the drivers and tuners went on to open some of the best-known tuning companies today out of Japan like Trust, HKS, and Top Secret.
Here's an awesome photo of Trust founder Mr Okawa in his '71 Trans Am racing a privateer's Pantera at the Yatabe High Speed Test Track!
So, what am I building? A JDM inspired Coupe! A Coupe that would look perfectly in place alongside those Japanese-tuned American cars of the 80s and 90s.
Here's the shortlist...
Gen 3 IRS Complete Kit
3.73 Torsen diff
Gen1 F150 Coyote with custom BMW ITBs, Boss 302 Cams, managed by a Link G4+ Thunder
Tremec TKX
Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembos, stock S550 PP1 rear brakes (vented!)
Volk Racing TE37V Mark II, 18x11 -7 front, 18x11 -33 rear
A few custom things that are a little less traditional...
Air cup suspension (retains regular spring+shock for regular driving, but can be raised 2-3" when needed)
BRIDE Zieg III Bucket Seats
STACK digital instrument cluster
Assisted electric power steering, controlled via the Link G4+ to only be active under 15 kph.
Full 10-step traction control
Again, the ITB'd Coyote, with velocity stacks off an AE86 Corolla
Body wise, I'm not planning to do anything radical with the Coupe shape, I honestly think it's one of the prettiest shapes to come out of the 60's and 70's. But I do want to add my personality to it, so the current plan is solid color, no stripes, and a shakotan-style slit spoiler under the cam tail. I'd like to do some kind of airdam as well, but I'm going to focus on getting the car together so I don't get caught up on lengthy custom projects. I could have gotten the Coupe-R airdam, but I don't think I actually can due to the ride height of my car haha.
The Drivetrain
Early on into the build I had MUCH more budget oriented plans which revolved around an SBC with quad webers (I'm so sorry!!) but thankfully a friend talked some sense into me, and with the fortunate timing of a low mileage Gen1 F150 Coyote showing up on FB Marketplace, I pulled the trigger to the correct side!
I know some people are looking into the F150 swap as it's much cheaper, so I'd like to share what I've found:
The main differences are as follows:
Intake
The intake is different than on the Mustang Coyotes across all three generations. It's got longer runners which are optimized for better bottom end torque. No problem, either run it or swap for a very cheap 2018+ intake.
Firing Order
The Gen1 F150 Coyote and Mustang Coyote use the same firing order, however, the Gen2 and Gen3 F150 Coyotes use a different firing order.
Oil Pump
The F150 Coyote uses a smaller oil pump. It's not possible to just replace the gears (afaik) as the housing is different, so a complete Mustang pump is needed! I've been told the F150 timing cover will fit over the mustang pump fine (it's different) but I haven't confirmed this yet. I'm just gonna do it and find out, haha
Compression
This is slightly more significant to me, the Gen1 F150 Coyote has a 10.5:1 compression compared to the Mustangs 11:1. This has been changed with the Gen2 and Gen3, and both the F150 Coyote and Mustang coyote are now 12:1 comp
Cams
The F150 uses a different intake cam, not sure if the exhaust is different, but probably!
Other Differences
The F150 tune is optimized for towing and low end torque, whereas the Mustang is optimized for performance. Also the F150 Coyote has an oil cooler that apparently will not clear on the Gen3 Coupe.
What I've done to mitigate these differences:
So seeing as the Coyote's weakest point is apparently the powdered metal oil pump, I've decided to just replace the whole F150 oil pump with a billet gear replaced unit from Boundary Racing Pumps. As for the cams, I've got a set of Boss 302 cams I'll be using instead, and the entire intake I've replaced with my custom BMW ITB setup. The differences in the tune are also irrelevant to me, as I'm using a standalone ECU. I'm leaving the compression as is, and I don't have to mess with the firing order as I have a Gen1 Coyote. As for the front timing cover, I cannot recall which builder documented this, but he just used the F150 timing cover and alternator and called it a day, which is what I'm also planning to do.
All in, I'm rolling into this setup at around $9k CAD (around $6500 USD), which is under what a crate Coyote goes for. I should match, or exceed the performance of a crate motor from Ford! The majority of that is in the very custom ITB setup and ECU setup, so you could do this for far cheaper simply by using a 2018+ Mustang manifold or similar.
Here's how that $9k breaks down:
$3000CAD: 113k kms Gen1 F150 Coyote
$500CAD: Donor ITBs from a BMW M5
$2000CAD: Custom ITB setup using aforementioned ITBs
$500CAD: Boundary Racing Pumps billet oil pump
$300CAD: Used Boss 302 Cams
$2000CAD: Link G4+ Thunder+custom modified harness
I'll need some miscellaneous stuff like my custom fuel rails and BMW throttle actuators (which are fairly cheap used at around ~$200 a set), so for sure, absolutely, under 10k CAD all said and done for the motor setup.
Disregarding the custom ITB setup which can be swapped for any other Coyote intake manifold, for essentially half the price, I have a Mustang Coyote with .5 less compression. Or, a better way to look at it, for a little less than what a crate Coyote goes for, I have a standalone ECU and custom ITBs!
If you really wanted to work on a budget - you could easily score a higher mileage Gen1 for under $1500USD, and completely disregard the internals, only changing the intake. That would get you a Coyote powerplant for quite a budget!
Also as a final note: The gen1 engines don't have the plasma'd cylinder sleeves. I'm scared of touching that kinda tech (hopefully I never have to), so I'm happy I have a regularly sleeved engine. Haha.
Are you gonna slam it?
Yes, I'm sorry ��
If you've made it this far, thank you! I'm looking forward to feedback and criticism from this community - and I'll accept all of it in earnest!
Last edited by jdm65; 03-24-2023 at 06:10 PM.
Reason: updated because I got the car!
Even though my kit completion date is late March - I've started to collect some of the things I'll need ahead of time!
Here is a photo of the Gen1 F150 Coyote, and the 2020 Bullitt Mustang IRS I picked up off eBay for a VERY reasonable price - the whole setup only has 2800 miles on it!
The motor is also very very low mileage at 55k, even if it looks a little hurt (I live in Alberta and I think this was out of a daily driven F150, so it's got some typical 'berta dust, salt, and corrosion). I paid a little above average, but I got to see the engine running in the donor truck before purchasing, so I think it was worth it.
And one bank of the S85 throttles - you can see the central ground shaft connecting all 5 throttles. The first and last are unique - the first has some bolt hole castings that I'll be using to mount the linkage setup, and the last has the OEM BMW hall effect TPS sensor that we will be wiring into our Link G4+. The three in the middle are identical, so one of these will obviously be not used and removed from the bank of throttles haha.
Age jabs aside, welcome to the fun. Many of us (myself included) were living paycheck to paycheck raising a family, buying a house, making car payments, getting kids through college, etc. etc. when in our younger days. So even considering a car build or hobby like this one was out of the question. Obviously don't know anything about your life situation but congratulations on being able to swing a build like this at an earlier time in your life. Enjoy it. You'll be my age faster than you can believe. Trust me.
Your build sounds interesting and I will enjoy following along. I'm curious why you describe the Coupe as "Mustang based" and therefore more reliable. Yes, a Coyote (although obviously highly modified) and a couple IRS pieces. But not many signs of a Mustang elsewhere. These aren't yesterday's donor builds. Especially not the latest Coupe. Not saying it can't be a reliable daily driver if that's what you want. But not necessarily because of Mustang roots IMO.
I finished our Gen 3 Coupe about a year ago, and was able to drive it about 2,000 miles this past shortened season. We absolutely love it. Build thread and video in my sig line below.
Again, congrats and welcome aboard.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Age jabs aside, welcome to the fun. Many of us (myself included) were living paycheck to paycheck raising a family, buying a house, making car payments, getting kids through college, etc. etc. when in our younger days. So even considering a car build or hobby like this one was out of the question. Obviously don't know anything about your life situation but congratulations on being able to swing a build like this at an earlier time in your life. Enjoy it. You'll be my age faster than you can believe. Trust me.
Your build sounds interesting and I will enjoy following along. I'm curious why you describe the Coupe as "Mustang based" and therefore more reliable. Yes, a Coyote (although obviously highly modified) and a couple IRS pieces. But not many signs of a Mustang elsewhere. These aren't yesterday's donor builds. Especially not the latest Coupe. Not saying it can't be a reliable daily driver if that's what you want. But not necessarily because of Mustang roots IMO.
I finished our Gen 3 Coupe about a year ago, and was able to drive it about 2,000 miles this past shortened season. We absolutely love it. Build thread and video in my sig line below.
Again, congrats and welcome aboard.
I've actually already combed through most of your build thread - really big fan of what you've done to the interior. I also really appreciate your attention to cleanliness with the Coyote install - the modifications you made to the cover are really nice and I actually prefer that look a lot over the shapes that Ford gave it.
Well, I basically figured, major wear components are mostly Mustang ones (brakes, steering components, some engine components), so if anything were to go wrong once the car's complete it shouldn't be too difficult to keep on the road, which is basically my definition of a reliable driver - something that doesn't break often, but when it does, is very simple to get going again. I do realize that the entire rear IRS cradle is Factory Five, alongside my entire front and rear suspension, as I'll be going with the Complete kit, so I see where you're coming at there!
Apologies about the age jabs though guys - I promise those will be the only ones in this build thread haha!
Where in Alberta are you? I am just outside Edmonton so if you want to see a finshed one you are welcome to a "masked" outside visit when it warms up.
you mentioned complete kit, you know it can't be imported into Canada and you need to get a special "Canada" kit. The parts that are not in the kit have to be purchased from another supplier.
Check out the "Canadian section" of the web site for lots of info on how to do it.
What you are planning looks interesting, you will have a unique car whan it is done.
David W
Mkll 4874 built in 2004
Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019
Where in Alberta are you? I am just outside Edmonton so if you want to see a finshed one you are welcome to a "masked" outside visit when it warms up.
you mentioned complete kit, you know it can't be imported into Canada and you need to get a special "Canada" kit. The parts that are not in the kit have to be purchased from another supplier.
Check out the "Canadian section" of the web site for lots of info on how to do it.
What you are planning looks interesting, you will have a unique car whan it is done.
David W
I'm down in Calgary but I spend a lot of time in Edmonton! When things clear up I'd be happy to do that!
I'm currently chatting with Ryan Valin right now for the rest of the kit - hoping that I can get the completion parts ahead of time so I can have something to work on right away haha!
Thanks all for the kind comments. Can't wait to get started.
Ryan got into this after I got mine and from what everyone says he sounds like the guy to deal with. wish he was in business sooner. My Coupe was the first Gen 3 in Canada.
David W
Mkll 4874 built in 2004
Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019
Welcome jdm65! Like you, I think I’m on the younger side of the average FFR-builder scale.
I like the plan, especially the ITBs! Keep the forum updated with your build once you get going.
Thank you! I was actually taking a look at your thread the other day - helped me figure out how to run M14 studs on all four corners - thanks for sharing that info!
It's already been a blast picking up a lot of knowledge from a side of cars I've never touched before haha
I should have an update soon... like you I picked up my motor ahead of the rest of the kit, so the plan is to have a relatively drop-in driveline setup before the kit arrives. Sending the harness and other items off to my friend at Carmena Performance to get made this week, and I'm pretty sure my wheels will be here sometime late week! Sadly got an update from Summit on my TKX, delayed until April! Hopefully that's the only delay, but I guess its only understandable since it's a brand new trans.
question on those Cadillac brakes, are they a direct bolt on? if not what's required to fit them? I really dislike my SVE mustang calipers when compared to the OEM S550 IRS rears and would love a simple upgrade.
best of luck on the madness. If I can give any advice it's to not have a timeframe. this isn't a race, it's about doing it the right way. time be damned.
question on those Cadillac brakes, are they a direct bolt on? if not what's required to fit them? I really dislike my SVE mustang calipers when compared to the OEM S550 IRS rears and would love a simple upgrade.
best of luck on the madness. If I can give any advice it's to not have a timeframe. this isn't a race, it's about doing it the right way. time be damned.
As far as I can tell they're a really simple swap for SN95s with a kit from a company called S&S Engineering, the kit is just two press-in offset nuts and a rotor spacer.
Here's a picture of them completed on an SN95. I think the only thing I don't like is that I now have to figure out how to go a smaller rotor out back since my S550 takeout IRS is from a Bullitt Mustang with 13" rotors
Totally agreed on the process of things! Just aiming to get it on the road relatively quickly, I enjoy modifying things a step at a time instead of pulling cars off the road for years at a time to do everything all at once haha
We've mounted the ITBs to a different Coyote now to test fitment and get a few things made, namely the harness and fuel rails! Turns out that the intake runner spacing between the BMW S85 V10s and the Coyote is EXTREMELY close - almost! We're gonna have to definitely make a new central shaft though unfortunately.
Also got a chance to check clearances with my AE86 20V velocity stacks - no problems! Now just to get the adapter flanges made and a second set of stacks purchased....
I'm still very happily surprised that the ID of my corolla stacks is the same as my BMW V10 ITBs haha. Wouldn't have guessed. My corolla is a 1.6L, the BMW V10 is a 5 liter, yet the velocity stack ID is the same, crazy.
Something also showed up at my door this week... My wheels!!!
I did some calculations with wheel fitment, here's what I've found:
Allegedly the Logano Coupe that Factory Five built on the Forgestars ran 18x10 +6 up front, and 18x12 +6 out back with a 40mm spacer, effectively making it a -34.
With the Rays ZE40s, the wheel size was 18x11 +15 square, with a 1 inch spacer out front, and a 1.5" spacer in the rear, making the effective wheel offset 18x11 -10 and 18x11 -23
My wheels are 18x11 -7 in the front, and 18x11 -30 out back. So, in theory, they should fit fine. I really hope they do, because if they don't, I can't really fit them on anything else I own hahahahah
Check out that dish though! The rears are the most aggressive face and lip combination available, it's something like 5.5" of dish.
Anyways. my Mustang cams also came, so it's time to wrap up the very mild amount of engine assembly.
Here's what is getting done to the Coyote:
Mustang Cams
Boundary Billet Oil pump+gears (this is a failure point for Coyotes)
16lb Exedy flywheel
Moroso 20570 Oil pan / pickup
For the Gen1 F150 Coyote, the oil pump gears are actually smaller than the Mustang counterpart, so a complete Mustang pump is needed. Boundary pumps sells a fully assembled unit so that's what I'll be using. From what I've read there's no issues with running a Mustang pump with the F150 timing cover, but if I run into any issues I'll report back haha. Still planning on running the F150 alternator.
Awesome wheel choice. I've ordered my kit and am waiting for it to arrive in early July. Just pulled the trigger on ordering my drivetrain too. I'll be following along.
Oh boy, here it is, and with the state of the world in consideration, actually in quite good time.
The Coupe is here!!
Sadly, most of the things I need to put it together, is quite a long ways away, so I'm going to have to plan around that.
Sadly I don't get to see a Stewart truck like most of you guys, BUT, I did get to crack open what is basically a life-size model car box!
Stressful, but fun overall! I used a pair of car dollies to get it rolling and off a makeshift ramp into the garage.
Actually shocked at how large the Coupes are - for some reason I was picturing something a bit smaller. Sitting next to my JZX100 the huge width of the car is super obvious. Only a foot shorter than my JZX!
Naturally I have to do SOMETHING, so before I go and check all the stuff that was sent to me - here's the TE37s mocked up!
Very cool! Obviously not physically drivable at that height, but it was cool to see!
Anyways! Onto the chassis! I gotta find a way to store the back half and nose section before I can get started, so it'll probably be a bit until the next update. Rough plan right now is to just get the aluminum fitted with clecos and sent off to powerdercoat alongside the rest of the items that need to be coated.
I'm not even sure if I should run brake lines and fuel lines without literally the majority of the pieces needed to get it to be a rolling chassis. Hopefully not held up too long on that stuff, but I'm sure I can keep myself busy.
What a nice start! What helped me at this stage was going through the boxes and checking off every part in every box against the insanely long inventory lists (At this point you might be thinking.."Dang this is going to be a lot of work!").
Then you'll have a clean "future delivery" list you can check off as items come in (which they will, sporadically). It helps to be very detailed, focused and organized here (there's probably some stuff that got missed and you will want to let FFR know). I'd also start a step farther back and review your on-line order against the detail -as much as you can. Of course, not enough detail on the summarized online order to be sure, but in my case they forgot to include the gauges (which have a unique part number on the online order form and therefore made the missing parts easy to find).
Enough of the old dude talk. Dive in and have fun!!
What a nice start! What helped me at this stage was going through the boxes and checking off every part in every box against the insanely long inventory lists (At this point you might be thinking.."Dang this is going to be a lot of work!").
Then you'll have a clean "future delivery" list you can check off as items come in (which they will, sporadically). It helps to be very detailed, focused and organized here (there's probably some stuff that got missed and you will want to let FFR know). I'd also start a step farther back and review your on-line order against the detail -as much as you can. Of course, not enough detail on the summarized online order to be sure, but in my case they forgot to include the gauges (which have a unique part number on the online order form and therefore made the missing parts easy to find).
Enough of the old dude talk. Dive in and have fun!!
Thank you!!
Conveniently, I deleted the gauges from the kit hahah! I have something different planned so, it looks like I'm good there!
That sounds like a great plan! I have some ideas of what I can do now for the car, so inventorying what I have and what's coming will help me plan what I can do on the car and what I can't do.
The three items I really really want, are the rear control arms and front upper control arms. The rest can actually wait a bit.
Since I'm so limited on what I can do right now, I think I'll get a start on the aluminum panels - it would be fantastic to have the chassis all bonded up and ready for mechanicals. I know I'll be more limited on space, but after reviewing the build guide again, I think it should be alright.
I wonder if anyone has ever done bodywork BEFORE go-karting? Haha
You mentioned early on about "complete sound deadening". Could you say a bit more about your plans for that? IIRC, Paul mentioned in his "what I would do different next time" section (which was short) something about the sound deadening near the exhaust. If you could talk a little about your plans there I'd be interested to hear. My feel is, the cars are generally so overpowered that adding some weight in interest of sound doesn't really matter much. I'm talking about a street car - no doubt some will throw up their hands at the idea of adding weight, but, I think if it's effective, for street use it only makes sense. I think. Also of course I would love to hear from anyone who has addressed the sound issue. Thanks!
You mentioned early on about "complete sound deadening". Could you say a bit more about your plans for that? IIRC, Paul mentioned in his "what I would do different next time" section (which was short) something about the sound deadening near the exhaust. If you could talk a little about your plans there I'd be interested to hear. My feel is, the cars are generally so overpowered that adding some weight in interest of sound doesn't really matter much. I'm talking about a street car - no doubt some will throw up their hands at the idea of adding weight, but, I think if it's effective, for street use it only makes sense. I think. Also of course I would love to hear from anyone who has addressed the sound issue. Thanks!
I do have an answer for this!
So I have a couple friends who do a lot of car audio stuff and one of them recommended to me to use mass loaded vinyl in addition to the usual Dynamat type material. He did his whole floor and inner doors and I can personally say that it made a huge difference.
I'm also planning on doing the backside of the body with some sound deadening - right behind where the side pipes mount.
Hey jdm65, the forum is hungry....feed us Coupe build updates!
Have you got a rolling chassis yet? Very interested in your wheel fitment, as you have some of the most aggressive offset specs discussed on the Coupe forum.
So, as many other builders are experiencing right now - we're in an unprecedented time for supply chain issues and manufacturing.
I wasn't able to get the majority of my components until a week or so before Christmas, so instead of jumping around the manual, in the months leading up to right now I decided to just put the project aside and wait for the parts patiently. I really wanted to hang all the suspension and get the car on the ground first, with the body on, so I could determine if I needed to make any chassis or body changes and to confirm fitment before proceeding.
Despite the large parts delivery, I was actually missing two key components preventing me from getting the car on the ground, namely, Heim joints for the IRS toe arms, and a pair of springs. I got the missing Heims from a performance store in-town and just used some springs off some AE86 coilovers I had lying around (which happen to be the correct diameter) just to get the car on the ground.
Also included in my IRS prep was to get the center section and spindles off my donor rear end. Since it only has 2000kms on it, I decided to just take them off the subframe and put them directly on the car. Originally, like Logan did on his Coupe-R, I wanted to run M14 studs all around instead of the 1/2" recommended by Factory Five, but more on that later.
Corolla springs!
Cutting and drilling the spindles was super straightforward. Clean up the aluminum afterwards!!
Center section in! This is a 3.73 torsen out of a 2020 Bullitt Mustang
Rear suspension complete!
I'm still waiting on pads for my ATS-V Brembos and my bumpsteer kit to finish the front suspension, so I just threw it together with the included Mustang brakes with no tie rods and steering arms for now. Didn't tighten the axle nut down, I'll do that when the front suspension is complete.
First up just for fun was a set of 17x9.5 +38 OG Volk TE37s just for fun - totally not the right look hahahaha. There is a HUGE spacer on this haha!!
Next up are a set of borrowed Cosmis XT206Rs in 18x11 +8, with a 45~mm spacer, effectively making it a 18x11 -37, with a 265/35R18 Zestino Gredge 07R (this is the tire size I'm planning on running) - it's absolutely bang on! This was with approximately -3.5deg of camber. I'm planning to dial as much of that out as I can.
And finally, my Volk TE37V Mark IIs - in 18x11 -30 and 18x11 -7 without spacers! These tires are an extremely small 235/40 thrown on purely so I could test fit these wheels - these will not be used!
All in all, I'm EXTREMELY happy with my fitment - 18x11 -30 and 18x11 -7 fit perfectly without camber and without spacers. With the tire size I'm planning on running (265/35), the fitment will be perfect.
So, as I mentioned earlier, I originally wanted to run M14 studs all around, but it turns out that most Rays/Volk wheels are only drilled for M12 studs. Instead of drilling out my wheels, I decided to just run the 1/2" studs provided by Factory Five. It was an extremely close fit, but 1/2" studs fit TE37s fine! I do know that certain Japanese wheels are made for European/American cars, namely the TE37 Ultras in 20", but mine were not.
Using the race suspension pickup points and lowering the car an additional ~2" or so makes this possible, but the car is definitely far too low for most. The chassis is an even 2" off the ground with this fitment. It's not possible with the Konis and the chassis is not designed for it, which is completely understandable. I'll be using a set of custom coilovers (which I can build now that I know the dimensions I need!) and a bumpsteer kit specifically made for low Mustangs to correct my tierod angles. I'm also planning on adding an air cup kit that gives me an additional 2-3" of ride height with a push of a button!
Those wheels look killer - well done! I'll be following along to see how it goes. I just started receiving parts the week before Christmas. They must have gotten a big shipment in around that time.
Those wheels look killer - well done! I'll be following along to see how it goes. I just started receiving parts the week before Christmas. They must have gotten a big shipment in around that time.
Not a super interesting update but a few parts for the car are rolling in and I thought I'd share:
First off are these super slick carbon-kevlar Bride Zieg III seats! Most don't like how uncomfortable full buckets are to get in and out of, but I like them enough to have them in every car I've owned, and this isn't going to be any different.
Second are these Cadillac ATS Brembos - a few others have used this kit, if you don't know about it already, these are roughly $120USD/side from RA and the conversion kit can be had pretty cheap as well.
These aren't for the car, but that's certainly not gonna stop me from test fitting them anyways, some new and shiny Advan GTs that are for my S15 (since I robbed it of its wheels last week lol)
I also got my ECU in~! This is a Link G4+ Thunder. It'll support both the mixed speed density/alpha N tune I'll need to run the ITBs and also the Coyote's 8 injector/spark drives + the 4 VVT drives and (potentially later) dual e-throttle. It'll also allow me to run full traction control and launch control, as well as some other trick features like flex fuel mapping with a flex fuel sensor, and more! I'm also going to run my EPAS off this, allowing me to turn it off at driving speeds.
And lastly, got a chance over the holidays to strip the accessories off the Coyote and get ready for that Mustang cam swap, Boundary billet oil pump gears, and billet crank sprocket. All upgrades necessary for the 8000+RPM I want to run!
Happy holidays and new years everyone! I hope it was great!
Nice parts update!
I have the Gias II ready to go in but I'm keeping the Zieg III in the back of my mind in case I can't get the right position for the reclining seats.
I didn't know the G4+ could do cam control too for the Coyote so that's good to know. Hopefully your ITBs will be singing in no time!
Gonna be honest with you... I want to hate this build. You're talking to a guy who built an old school coupe who doesn't generally like stanced rides— but I gotta say... I'm completely digging that profile. It definitely works with the Coupe. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Last edited by Alphamacaroon; 01-04-2022 at 11:52 PM.
Nice parts update!
I have the Gias II ready to go in but I'm keeping the Zieg III in the back of my mind in case I can't get the right position for the reclining seats.
I didn't know the G4+ could do cam control too for the Coyote so that's good to know. Hopefully your ITBs will be singing in no time!
I saw your build, amazing work, and as a big fan of Bride seats I'm stoked to see a set in another Coupe haha!
Honestly, what I really wanted were the Histrix, but without actually having tried, they seem super hard to get a hold of and likely extremely expensive. I might throw a inquiry email towards some of the parts importers I use but I think the Coupe has enough expensive eye-candy parts for now haha.
Bride Histrix seats for reference:
And regarding the ECU and VCT control, it's able to do it! My friend Blaine from Carmena Performance was the one to help Link with the Coyote's VCT. He's the one who sold me the ECU.
I'm working on the ITBs now, they're likely going to take me a while as it's an entirely custom one-off setup, but the bulk of the work (the adapter plate to the throttles themselves) is finished, and I just need to design and produce the adapter to the velocity stacks (super easy), the intake spacer, the central bell crank mount, and the throttle linkages.
I'm foreseeing some sensor calibration issues as well, so that's likely to sink most of my time with the driveline prep. It's super funky with BMW TPS sensors, likely a GM open element IAT, and probably a LINK MAP sensor haha
Originally Posted by Alphamacaroon
Gonna be honest with you... I want to hate this build. You're talking to a guy who built an old school coupe who doesn't generally like stanced rides— but I gotta say... I'm completely digging that profile. It definitely works with the Coupe. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Thanks for having an open mind! I think what's fantastic about Factory Five is that these cars are essentially entirely blank canvases... there's so much potential for creativity and individuality within these cars, and that's the part of them I like the most. What's great is that nobody has to like my car - I'm building it because I have a vision in my head I really want to see through, and if someone disagrees, they can just build their own! Really appreciate your kind words and honesty. I'm also very excited to see this project through haha. Me personally I'm just waiting for the first JZ or RB powered Factory Five :P
Thanks for having an open mind! I think what's fantastic about Factory Five is that these cars are essentially entirely blank canvases... there's so much potential for creativity and individuality within these cars, and that's the part of them I like the most. What's great is that nobody has to like my car - I'm building it because I have a vision in my head I really want to see through, and if someone disagrees, they can just build their own! Really appreciate your kind words and honesty. I'm also very excited to see this project through haha. Me personally I'm just waiting for the first JZ or RB powered Factory Five :P
Hah— and truly I could never actually "hate" someone's build (just said that for shock value ). Every build is a joy to watch. Like you said, that's why we build these things— the creativity and individuality.
I have to admit that now I'm curious what a set of Aerodiscs would look like on it...
Also, I am REALLY interested in your ITBs. Are you going to try to retain the DBW? If I could find a set of ITBs that retain the DBW, I would buy them in a heartbeat.
Last edited by Alphamacaroon; 01-05-2022 at 04:34 PM.
Hah— and truly I could never actually "hate" someone's build (just said that for shock value ). Every build is a joy to watch. Like you said, that's why we build these things— the creativity and individuality.
I have to admit that now I'm curious what a set of Aerodiscs would look like on it...
Also, I am REALLY interested in your ITBs. Are you going to try to retain the DBW? If I could find a set of ITBs that retain the DBW, I would buy them in a heartbeat.
I can answer that haha! Here is a photoshop with some SSR Formula Aero Mesh wheels. Super cool. But I wanted really lightweight wheels, so I had to go with the forged 1-piece TE37s.
So, I actually do have a solution for DBW and ITBs that I was going to use, but it requires a little bit of programming that I want to bypass for now. My solution was to use two BMW M3 DBW actuators connected to my Link ECU (the ECU needs to support dual DBW, which is really uncommon). However, Innov8 has this brilliant setup using the stock Coyote DBW throttle body, and from what I've read online, their setup is around 8k. I know everyone likes to talk about the Borla setup, but I personally think Innov8's ITB setup is a little better engineered for the same, or less money.
Another solution is to simply attach a DBW actuator to any of the more commonly available ITB setups, something like this would probably work:
This setup is made by EFIhardware, but you'd likely need two, making things super expensive and again, you'd need the ECU to support dual DBW, which most do not. I do know there's a workaround involving just syncing both the actuators to act like one, but then you run into funky issues with making sure they are opening the same amount haha.
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Originally Posted by edwardb
). Every build is a joy to watch. Like you said, that's why we build these things— the creativity and individuality.
