Tom here. I ordered a roadster today and looks like 9 months lead time. This will give me time to get the garage in order, figuring out many details, and likely ordering tools and parts.
I have been lurking and stealthy popping in and out of the forums for many years. Going back to 2014. It has been a number of years and I have enjoyed all the builds and articles and how everyone supports each other. I am still working and thought of retiring in a few years and then do a kit. Then Covid hit. Why wait? Tomorrow is not promised and it would suck to keep husting, thinking you will do it later in life and bamo, life gets in the way. I have been following Namrups build over in the 65 coupe area and he is inspiring. A lot of the builds and the community support inspire me. I have full wife support and ready to go.
I live in Vero Beach FL, and as indicated, I am working. My wife and I are reverse snowbirds. We come down in Jan-Feb to spend time with family and grandkids and head to MD in August or September. We like the fall and first part of winter in MD and spend time with family in MD for the holidays. Then bolt for FL. I plan to work on the car mostly on the weekends in between family and grandkid time. Plus after work when the temp is not so bad in the garage. The 9 months is ok and hopefully will arrive once we are back and settled. I work in IT security and work plenty of evenings and weekend and pile up time. I plan to take off a week here and there and bust out chunks when I can. It may take me time and a few years and that is ok. If I can complete in time for retirement then it will all work out. Once complete. I would like to autocross. Maybe Hotrod PowerTour. I love road trips and that is my thing on my motorcycle. It would be fun to do it in a FF. Only thing is it may have less storage than my Harley Ultra. Yikes.
Cosmetically I plan to model after CSX600 which is a 427. But not sure if I want a 427 as the power plant and think a stout Dart based 347 may be better for me. This is my FF order. I have different list for FF vendor options and i'll post later. I am sure time will fly. Appreciate any feedback. Thank You. Tom
Mk4 Complete Kite
NO Powder Coat Chassis - Will do a silver color locally
J-pipes: 87-95 Mustang 5.0L donor (Can I delete/credit?) I would like to go with GASN
302/351W Mounts - Either a SBF 347 or 351 stroked to a 408. Either one is a lot. Dart based
Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS
Body Cut-outs
Black Vinyl Roadster Seats (Do I upgrade? Not sure)
Power steering kit (requires pump and bracket)
Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter (Do I need this?)
Platinum Gauges (Can I delete/credit?) I want to run a Holley digital dash
Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 17” X 9” Front and 17” X 10.5” Rear
Front Swaybar
2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
Weatherproof Battery Cutoff Switch with alternator circuit
Heater/Defroster (Can I get a AC/Combo version?) Wife would enjoy AC. Even if it only works a little
EFI In-Tank System (Do I want FF or Holley/Other?)
Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
Roll Bar Grommets
Center Dash Support
2015 Mustang IRS 13” Rear Brake Kit
2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Kit
Shipping via Stewart Transport
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 03-19-2023 at 06:42 PM.
Congratulations on your order. You're in for an excellent adventure. Your story of starting near the end of your career is similar to mine. Except I didn't stop after retirement. I know. I have a problem... Some comments about your list:
Strongly suggest not going with J-pipes. You have a nice higher level build going there and you'll be much happier with headers versus the more economical J-pipes. Both performance and durability. Factory Five headers with the ball flanges are excellent. Or you could go Gas-N along with the suggested Gas-N side pipes. You'll get opinions about each.
You might want to think about ordering your engine now too. DART based products currently have a long lead time.
The black vinyl Roadster seats are fine IMO. The leather version (if that's what you're thinking of for an upgrade) are nice. But not a huge upgrade IMO. I've had both.
Yes you need the driveshaft adapter.
Yes you can delete gauges for a credit. Nearly everything can be deleted for a credit. Just don't expect a fortune. I suspect the amount is something around their cost. Not what they sell for.
Not aware that FF sells a heater/A-C system for the Roadster. Guys have squeezed them in. But not sure the details. Good question to keep asking.
I'd recommend sourcing your EFI in-tank components elsewhere. They're very common, widely available, lots of choices, and likely cheaper. Depending on the engine you end up with, you may find the kit provided fuel lines are marginal. If you change them, the kit provided in-tank components may not be your best choice.
I'd also recommend adding the 16808 Trunk Gas Strut Kit. A good deal at $50.00 and will keep the trunk lid from falling on your head. Just happen to know that. Their floor mats are great quality, fit perfectly, and protect the carpet which is fine for everywhere else but will wear quickly on the floors if not protected. Most also do wind wings and visors. But that's a personal choice. Like most everything.
Good luck!
Last edited by edwardb; 05-28-2022 at 11:16 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Hi Paul Thank you for the feedback. Your problem is a good one to have given all the other problems you can get into.
I agree on j-pipes. I choose them becuse they were the lowest price on the order form and will delete them or switch back to headers. I am leaning toward the GASN headers and sidepipes. I have time on the engine package. I know myself and will come out of the gate all wound up, then family will come in, motorcycle, etc, and I need to go longer on the build. A resonable goal for me is assemble the suspension, get the panels roughed in, lay out the electrical. That will be a lot for me in 4-5 months in 2023. I do not want the motor hanging around a long time and the warranty will expire. I will time for 2024.
Heater/AC is my largest unknown. I see some people have got a smaller unit in. I have no problem with the heat here in FL, however the wife supervisor generally requires it, and I am scratching my head. I will either roll my own OR maybe a heated and ventilated seat. I am going to contact Katzkin and see if they can do a custom cover with their ventalated system. It is a long shot. I am 50/50 here and not really sure what to do. I just may do nothing and realize the supervisor is a fair weather companion.
I am leaning toward doing my own EFI tank solution. I have seen your builds and others and uping the line size and going with components I am confortable with. I would like to use Holley digital dash and thinking of ordering that early, programming it, be sure it will work for me, and then figure out how to inset and support it in the dash. If that comes out nice then I will delete the gauges.
Thx for the recommendations on the trunk struts, mats, and wind wings and visors. I have them on the "order later" list.
Regards, Tom
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 05-30-2022 at 06:49 PM.
Heater/AC is my largest unknown. I see some people have got a smaller unit in. I have no problem with the heat here in FL, however the wife supervisor generally requires it, and I am scratching my head. I will either roll my own OR maybe a heated and ventilated seat. I am going to contact Katzkin and see if they can do a custom cover with their ventalated system. It is a long shot. I am 50/50 here and not really sure what to do. I just may do nothing and realize the supervisor is a fair weather companion.
I am leaning toward doing my own EFI tank solution. I have seen your builds and others and uping the line size and going with components I am confortable with. I would like to use Holley digital dash and thinking of ordering that early, programming it, be sure it will work for me, and then figure out how to inset and support it in the dash. If that comes out nice then I will delete the gauges.
Not sure but Vintage Air might be able to do something on an AC/Heater unit. With the heater you should go with the FFMetal firewall. It's thicker and moves forward 1.5" for more space between it and the dash.
Forte has some nice in tank fuel pumps that drop right in the FFR supplied tank. He and Mark at Breeze should be on your speeddial.
...I have time on the engine package. I know myself and will come out of the gate all wound up, then family will come in, motorcycle, etc, and I need to go longer on the build. A resonable goal for me is assemble the suspension, get the panels roughed in, lay out the electrical. That will be a lot for me in 4-5 months in 2023. I do not want the motor hanging around a long time and the warranty will expire. I will time for 2024...
Understand. Some engine builders don't start the warranty until you install and start the engine though. Something to check which may/may not influence your timing decision. FWIW
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Not sure but Vintage Air might be able to do something on an AC/Heater unit. With the heater you should go with the FFMetal firewall. It's thicker and moves forward 1.5" for more space between it and the dash.
Forte has some nice in tank fuel pumps that drop right in the FFR supplied tank. He and Mark at Breeze should be on your speeddial.
Hi Mike. I have the FFmetal firewall on the list of options. I'll check with Forte on tank options. I also have breeze stuff on the list and will check with Mark. Thx for the info. Regards, Tom
Understand. Some engine builders don't start the warranty until you install and start the engine though. Something to check which may/may not influence your timing decision. FWIW
Edwardb. I did not know that. I will check into it. Thx again. Tom
The follow items are on acquire at some/anytime list. The Breeze and FFMETAL at the begining when mocking up the panels. In addition to these items I need to acquire a few tools. I need a drill press, tabletop press/brake, brake line bending stuff, bottle of argon, and a few misc items. I am good on most hand tools, electrical gadgets, compressor with tools, and lots of cordless tools. I have the Eastwood flaring tool and I have a generic install tool for nutserts. I got it on sale last year. I need a good rivit tool. I have not figured that out yet.
I am building a 2x4 steel top table for welding and cutting, chassis dolly, and a body buck. I am along on the table with the legs built and looking for steel in my area. The dolly I just got the wood and cutting the notches for the center 2x6. That was a lot of saw dust flying.
Mike from FF5 called me earlier to quickly review my order and I received the email a few hours later. It looks like 3/4/2023 is the due date. I am calling it that as we used "due dates" for kids, grandkids, and dogs. This will simply be another baby. Awww. Its weird, a similar but differnet anticipation. Time flies and I bet this will too.
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 06-02-2022 at 12:17 PM.
Nine months may not seem like a long time to you, I had to wait eight weeks and I was climbing the walls. It's only a short time if you don't want the date creeping up on you, but if it's something you want it takes for evvvver. Good luck on your build, it seems like your parts list will give you a great ride in the end.
FFR 9883 MKIV ,427 Windsor engine
TKX 5 speed, Three Link 3.55 gears
Power Steering, Leather Seats
18" Wheels and Tires, Drop Trunk
Fun Package
Hi ggunter. Yeah its a long time. I think if it was 2 months, then it may be overwheling for me, and not sure that would be good. I can not imagine only having two months and how you got ready. That is a bit scary. This gives me plenty of time to get ready. I do wish it was 4 or 6 months. Ohh well. Over the next few months i'll get a chassis dolly built (almost done with it), body buck, sort out how to raise and tuck to the ceiling, and overall garage getting in shape. it seems like project after project getting ready for the project. We then bolt from FL to MD for fall and holidays. Back to FL in January. That is when I will get anxious and nuts. "is it here yet - is it here yet".
Completed my chassis and mostly ready. I did not permanently attach the top 4x6 or the blocks. The top 4x6 is soo wet and ozzing the goo they treat the board, I am going to wait until it dries out, and then lag it in, and notch the top for the 24" center on center for the tubes. I also made the blocks from Jazzman's post and have found them useful as supports for woodworking tasks and will keep them handy for when I need a higher frame. I deviated from the original plans a little. The plans can be found here and were very helpful. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ht=frame+dolly
I used lag bolts + screws to attach the 2x6 to the 4x6. Followed up with metal corner braces on the top and sides. I did not cut the support piece out of plywood and use. The corner brackets are good and it is solid. I need to find some carpet remnants and will go to the carpet store where we had a custom carpet made for the family room. I bet they will have some scraps. The 5" locking casters are from Amazon and seem pretty good to start. Time will tell.
Next up. Work on a welding/fab table. I am thinking of 1/4 steel plate. Local metal shop wants $450 for it. I can get a weld/fab table top for less that that. Just need to assemble it, verify straightness, and weld it. Here is the top. https://weldtables.com/collections/p...b-slot-u-weld#. I will be out a bit for the next two weeks and plan to order it when I get back. The same goes for a welding bottle. Welding bottle are hard to get. My local gas shop suggested Amazon and said they would fill it if it had the appropriate markings and they been doing that. I will try that.
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 06-18-2022 at 09:28 PM.
I have spent the last month reading many build threads again. The work in these threads is super helpful and appreciated. For the most part my core order looks good. I have thought a few things over and made a few changes. Two big ones are powder coating and 18" wheels. I am going to now receive the frame powder coated from FF as I think my ambition of doing something super cool outweighted my experience and posible skill. I protect it as others have done with tape and a few pool noodles. Which we have plenty of extras as the grandkids usually destroy a few each year. Perfect for the car. I am leaning toward the 18" wheels now. The 18" seem to fill the wheels openings out a bit more and looks more agressive.
I have contacted many vendors and placed and/or working on orders for many of the options. Russ Thompson, Breeze, FFMETAL, Replicaparts, MCMaster, Forte, and of course Summit. My goal is to have most, if not all, these items ordered and recieived over the next few months. Pretty much everything but the motor and transmission. That I need to figure out. Lead times are problematic. I do not want it sitting around unused and I do not beleive I will be ready for it until 2024. I will be busy enough getting the suspension, panels, fuel and brake lines, etc. all in. The hardest thing will be AC. Did I say I am going to try AC? I am going to try and squeeze one in. I know it will be a challenge.
Any feedback on the wheels? What kind of tires are folks running? I will run some sort of sport summer street tires most of the time for general running around. I will have a seperate set of Nitto track tires. Just dont know what to run on the street. Any suggestion is appreciated.
I am running Nitto 555G2's on 17" wheels, have 3700 miles on them now and they are fine for normal street driving. The don't throw a lot of rocks which is nice because of the harder compound but they are also not as soft as other tires available. They seem to be wearing good still look brand new after one track day and 3700 miles of street driving. I went with 17" wheels to have a little more rubber around the wheel but just my preference.
I am running Nitto 555G2's on 17" wheels, have 3700 miles on them now and they are fine for normal street driving. The don't throw a lot of rocks which is nice because of the harder compound but they are also not as soft as other tires available. They seem to be wearing good still look brand new after one track day and 3700 miles of street driving. I went with 17" wheels to have a little more rubber around the wheel but just my preference.
Thx Fman. I flip flop on the rim size week to week. I like the Nitto’s and have them on the short list.
I settled up with FFR today and eagerly waiting for the 3/4 completion date + transport. I am hoping for mid-late March. I squared away the transportation as well and Stewart has me in the queue. I am pretty close to my orginal order. I did switch to 18" rims, removed the leather seats, and added the carbon fiber dash. Plus a few small adds. Here is my final FFR order. I built a dolly, buck, and added several shelves to the garage to hold the parts from FFR and the various vendor already on hand. One task remaining. Swap out overhead lights to LED. I'll get that done over the weekend. So excited.
Mk4 Complete Kit
Left Hand Drive Chassis
302/351W Mounts
Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
DELETE J-pipes:
Side Exhaust Deletion Credit
RD IRS w/COMPLETE KIT
F&R IRS SHOCK SET
IRS 3.55 CENTER & SPINDLES
31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS
Woo Hoo. FF is here. FF is here. Getting in and out of the neighborhood was easy for Stewart driver Mark. The only bummer is Steward has a new trailer and not fancy Factory Five graphics. That was a little bummer not seeing that. Oh well. Good stuff ahead.
Mark's helper, his wife Shelly, both made very fast work of the delivery. We were the 2nd delivery of the day. We started at 12:30pm and Mark was down the road at 2pm to his next delivery south of us in West Palm Beach. Mark and Shelly were very nice and we enjoyed meeting them and the process.
We loaded the chassis on the dolly in the street and pushed it up a short driveway. I had a pretty hefty rope to help pull with leverage the incline and in she went. The boxes loaded on a large cart and several dolly's and quick work was made of it.
I started the inventory process, worked a few hours, got through about 15 boxes, ran out of steam, and headed in for a much needed shower, dinner, and drink of some sweet brown stuff. Slept really well.
Congrats, Tom. What an exciting day. And, pretty cool to take your delivery in March while wearing shorts! No shorts up north for a couple more months. Enjoy the inventory process. Great time to get introduced to all the parts in your kit, and do a bit of organization/labeling so items can be found later on when you need them.
Chris Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows. MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.
Congrats, Tom. What an exciting day. And, pretty cool to take your delivery in March while wearing shorts! No shorts up north for a couple more months. Enjoy the inventory process. Great time to get introduced to all the parts in your kit, and do a bit of organization/labeling so items can be found later on when you need them.
Haha. Thx Chris. Yeah shorts is standard shop wear in FL. I appreciate the note. I have been following your build as it contains so much great information.
The last few weeks have zipped by and work progressing bit by bit. A few observations.
Panels. They come from FF 90-95% there. I think for many people, this will be ok, and not a lot of tweaking is required. For others, you may see inconsistencies, and it will drive you crazy. That is me. For example "F Panels". FF screwed them in slightly offset and I wanted to figure it out. I ended up trimming both panels a little, moved them forward slightly, and used part of the panel to cover the hole left by the original fastener. Then cleco'd the panel in place. I like the way it looks. I ended up spending way more time on it compared to what the manual says. Could I have just nailed it in place. Yes. It would have worked ok. As many people say all the time on the forum. "Make it your own".
Front suspension. The good thing there are two sides. I started on the passenger side. Learned there, did the driver's side, went back and redid some of the passenger side.
Upper Control Arms. Assemble just like the manual and slap on. Refer to the manual and adjust the sleeves to get in the ballpark. If doing power steering, the rear sleeves should be shortened. Go do this now. Take 1/4” off each side of the sleeve. That will be easy. Take 1/4” off the screw part that goes into the sleeve. That will be harder. The screw part is hardened steel. Use really good blades for whatever you use to make the cut with. I used a combo of sawzall and hacksaw. Have a number handy.
Ball Joint. I used a wire wheel on a die grinder to take a a little paint off. I used a baby wire wheel on a dremal on the inside of the part where the ball joint screws into. Cleaned up and it slide right in. Use blue lock tight and I will witness mark it.
Lower Control Arms. Slide in. The front should be snug. The rear may be loose. Use any combo of the big washers in the rear. Once you have the rear done, the front should be ok, but if not, try and get another washer in.
Shocks. I checked the rebound settings and found one shock that was slightly off. It was easy to check. See HERE. Set to soft which should be counter clockwise all the way. The drivers side top mount was too tight. I could not get the shock and spacers in. I used the all thread method to spread the tabs out a little and slid the shock in.
PSA on washers. The kit comes with washers. Many of the instructions do not mention washers. A number of bolts and nuts have washers built in the head or nut. If a bolt or nut had it built in, I followed instructions, and used just the bolt and nut. If a regular bolt or nut, I used a washer and moved on.
PSA on tools. Get a good digital caliper. Minimum 0-6”. Maybe a 10-12” one. I am using quite a bit. Right angle die grinder with 3" sander. I use an air grinder. Very useful for taking a little off here and there. I have a sanding station consisting of a belt and disc sander. Again useful for detail work. I used to smooth the sleeves after cutting with sawzall.
Scrapes and bruises. I seem to accumulate scrapes and bruising here and there. I am at band aid = 2 level.
Take 1/4” off the screw part that goes into the sleeve. That will be harder. The screw part is hardened steel. Use really good blades for whatever you use to make the cut with. I used a combo of sawzall and hacksaw. Have a number handy.
Use a 3" cutoff wheel, cuts these like butter. You can use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder or I have an electric die grinder so I don't have to always fire up my noisy compressor. https://www.amazon.com/Shark-Welding...%2C141&sr=8-20
Ball Joint. I used a wire wheel on a die grinder to take a a little paint off. I used a baby wire wheel on a dremal on the inside of the part where the ball joint screws into. Cleaned up and it slide right in. Use blue lock tight and I will witness mark it.
The housing looks like it's cadium or zinc chromate plated, both of which are relatively soft and will wire brush off with ease. Not only is cleaning this side easier but if you ever have to replace a ball joint the new one will screw right in.
Mike. Yes a cut off wheel would be a good alternative. My workbench is in a spot where I really not want a lot of sparks. A cutoff wheel generated a ton. My wife is very supportive. She had one request. Do not burn down the garage or house. Seemed reasonable.
The Front suspension is complete. I thought I would have tidied up a few weeks ago, but the LCA's gave me a few fits and where it went sideways. The front tabs were slightly off. Not only did both require a shim, the passenger side needed a thinner shim, and none of the included ones would work. I could not find a suitable shim anywhere. I found online. Interesting the M16-2.0.110mm bolts barely peaked out the nylon nut. I did not like that and ordered 120mm versions and put a washer on the outside of the nut.
Witness marks. I used a yellow paint stick to mark each nut and bolt end.
Next. Front brakes and IRS. I have the IRS differential scuffed up and cleared. I like the factory look. I assembled the rear IRS components. The brake caliper I am going to paint with POR-15 caliper kit and I plan on painting this weekend.
The IRS is officially complete. I followed the instructions and overall it was business as usual except for a few observations.
Prepping the Diff. I liked the "shipped to me look". I scuffed it up with a red pad and cleared it.
Installing the DIFF. It’s a heavy SOB. I know some folks do it by them self. Good for them. It will kill me. Get a friend and swing that thing in there. Have a drink.
Toe Link. I saw conflicting info on which side to put the 1/4 vs 1/8 shim. I checked with FF tech and the 1/4 is toward the rear.
Sway bar. If you have a rear sway bar. You need to break out the instruction now and install the bracket along with the LCA and toe arm. There is a small note in the instruction manual and I missed it. I ended up completing and torquing everything down, only to have to pull a few bolts out, and redo it again. That sucked.
Fasteners. Because I had to redo a few things. I ordered extra of the M16/M14 lock flange bolts as I was unsure if they are single use or not. I did not take a chance.
Left over stuff. I seemed to have QTY=10 of
I am happy with my turtle like progression schedule. Little by little. I have the pedal box mocked in and working on how to hang the reservoirs and sort out how to plumb. I do not think I will use rubber hose and plan on braided with AN fittings. I will be researching that next. I will also work on getting the brakes complete and the front steering rack in. These are my next milestones.
Appreciate the help along the way with my many questions.
Like most of the country, it has been hot as heck down here in FL. For the past 2 months, an hour in the garage and I am soaked head to toe. Sometimes I changed 3x in order to get a few hours in. It is still fun and I am chugging along.
I pivoted since my last update and focused on getting all the panels set, drilled, cleco, and everything back together. I am addicted to Cleco's and seem to love using them. I am not in the "you only need 50" club. I have a bunch and use them. A favorite tool is the Milwaukee compact 12v drill. Perfect for the 500 or so holes drilled for this process. Small and lightweight.
Overall the panels fit pretty good. The DS box was a little wonky. I chased getting the box square. The two panels on the inside needed some fiddling. I mocked up the wiper motor and working on how to run wires, fuel lines, and other stuff.
I installed the power rack and used the breeze adjustable hard mounts to center the rack. I did need to grind down part of the tab as the instructions indicated and touched up with a paint pen. The front sway bar is roughed in. When I blow off all the panels, sent to powder coat, I will use that window to come back and verify everything is torque properly and take more time to check check check. I'll do with the entire suspension.
Whew on the trunk. I have the RT drop trunk cut. I fretted on that. Used a jigsaw and sanded to fine tune. A die grinder with a 36 or 80 disc worked pretty good. You can see how the humidity affects the aluminum panels after a few months. It will all be painted and the trunk carpeted. All that work to cover it up.
TODO. Cut out the cubby. I need to pull the rear panel and mark it up and cut it out. I should be able to get that complete this week. I have the Breeze front mounted battery box 60% in. I have the three holes on the X frame. I need to get two more there, the two on the other side. I am planning to tap and run 1/4 in. The battery should arrive today so I will get on that shortly. I also need to source the parts for the Kleiner mod on the rear as I may pop the fuel tank up to see how it looks.
Thx for all the feedback and help along the way. It is getting there. Tom
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 08-14-2023 at 09:46 PM.
Today I installed the breeze front mounted battery tray and dropped in a group 51 yellow top from Summit. I tapped 1/4 all around. That was new as I had not tapped anything for years. The first few were not as straight as I would have liked. Not used to being wiggled in the engine compartment and drilling in a unique spot. But. I figured out to slow down and work to get the hole drilled out and level. That will help get the tap square and level and therefore the screws go in square. Good lesson for future tap items where I like the button head look.
I found some string and mocked up the runs for the power. This helped me figure the amount of battery wires and connectors to get. I found the following site and the products seem good. Anyone use Batterycablesusa? Says its USA based stuff.
I will work on the order and get something to continue to mock up components. I ordered some double sided tape from Amazon to stick stuff in place. I have the main fuse panel for the Infinitybox and thinking of installing the one of the two power cells in the engine compartment. I also have the fuel components and can mock that up. I have a plastic dummy 302 block and that should help me figure out most of the placement.
I am putting off cutting the cubby hole. Need to get on that. Fingers crossed.
Tom
Last edited by Gizmosrcool; 08-14-2023 at 09:34 PM.
You mentioned a type 51 battery. How is this different than a type 58 battery?
Craig C
Hi Craig. Thx. It's a solid roller and continuing to mockup power, brake lines, and gas lines. On the battery. Size and shape. The Breeze box allows a group 51 to sit up front in-between the rails. Anything bigger will not fit.
The gas tank proved to be eventful and uneventful at the same time. I did not understand the seam rested on the down supports. Edwardb helped me understand to straighten the seem, once my light bulb came on, the tank went in and snug.
I installed Holley 12-345 in-tank pump picked up from Fortes. Nice well build unit. Comes with 6AN with O-rings. I lubed the O-ring and slid in and made sure the pickup is in the well.
I am using a Holley 10micron filer and a piece of 1/8 aluminum as a mounting plate. I found a spot on the frame and followed a similar setup that Mike Bray used in his build.
For flexible lines. I am using Hot Rod Fuel Lines. Figuring out the various connector types surprisingly took some time. NPT, O-ring, and compression. I started at the fuel pump and installed o-ring fitting. Made a flex line to the fuel pump and then a flex line to the frame heading down to the big boy main frame rail.
Making the lines is another story. Hard for a first time newbie. It took a few mistakes and practice makes perfect after a few tries.
I am using NICOP to mock up the hard lines. I found a roll on a deal a while back and picked up along with stainless. I practiced on the nicop and got the first one made. I then made another out of stainless and used black anodized separators from Summit. I drilled each out each separator to put in a larger and longer bolt and I drilled and tapped the frame. When I get the stainless in permanently, I will blue lock tight them in there or use a locking washer. Just need to redo the one nicop from stainless.
The gas tank needs to be dropped to get access to a spot to put a few wire separators and hold up the flex lines so they do not rub on anything.
Next up: I’ll be taking time off to visit my dad in MD. He is 93 and I want to be there for the fall and holidays and spend as much time as I can with him and family.
When I get back, sometime in January, I will blow off the panels, have them powder coated, finish the fuel system, and begin wiring and other activities. I am close to page 200 in the manual. That is pretty good start for me. Back at it in January.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by 65 Cobra Dude
