JDav's MK4 #9028 Build Thread

[edwardb]

Agreed all need to be loose until all 8 are started. That was going to be first response as well. I suspect that's what you're doing, but just need to confirm. My GP Headers were that way. Each had to be dead loose to get all eight started. The bolts needed to go exactly straight into the hole or wouldn't start threading. Once all eight were started, then started snugging them down.

If that still doesn't work, I wouldn't be in a hurry to get out the tap. I would take it slow. I know it seems like going backwards, but I would remove enough bolts so the header can move a bit and you can confirm the offending holes really do have a problem. I suspect they don't. Likely you just need to open up the holes in the header a bit so all eight will go in.

[Ducky2009]

I have 2 bolts (top right on driver sides, bottom second from front on passenger side) that I can't get in. The driver side on I have plenty of room for my hand, the threads just won't catch.
I was thinking that maybe an earlier attempt cross threaded it - my only idea is to try to re tap the first few threads. Is that stupid? Any other ideas?

If you think you need to re-tap any threads, I'd remove the headers first and try all the bolts, so you know there is no header interference.

[Jdav]

22 weeks
I spent most of the week fighting with the header bolts. I finally got the last one in yesterday and have the beat up hands to show for it. I loosened the other bolts almost all the way and was able to get the passenger side one in. The driver side still gave me some trouble. I ended up getting a different bolt from Home Depot that wasn't chamfered on the end and it cut through and started easier. After that I swapped it back to the supplied bolt and got it in all the way. I wish I would have at least tried to attach the headers prior to dropping in the engine, but water under the bridge now.

I was also able to get the driveshaft in and the radiator mounted using the breeze upper and lower mounting kit.

[Jdav]

23 weeks in
I did not get much done this week. Tied up a few loose ends like the sending unit wiring and sorting out what is needed on the cmcv and radiator routing. I was initially planning to use the provided in neck filler and expansion tank, but I think I'm going to follow edwardb and order the moroso tank and corresponding lines instead.

[Jdav]

24 weeks in
I was out of town much of the week, so again, slow progress.
I did receive a few new parts: moroso coolant tank and the PCV connector from JLT.
I also ordered the smaller size connector from JLT for the CMCV. Instead of cutting out the push to connect fitting on the tube that comes from the back of the manifold (under the manifold) to the front of the engine, I used the JLT connector and then a 3/8" tube - connecting to an elbow and 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to 1/2: tube to the nipple on the intake. This is how I believe the CMCV should be routed based on diagram in this thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-CMCV-Plumbing). Using these connections also means that if that is not the correct routing, I can easily change it.


I also fabbed up some mounts for the moroso tank, using some steel plates (Simpson Strong Tie from home depot - used for decking). I bent them into a W shape that I think should be sturdy and then used JB Weld to mount a nut on the bottom. I can then rivet the tabs to the radiator cross bar and the radiator flange.
I am unsure if the height is right, so if anyone with the tank installed on a finished car can measure the tank height compared to the cross bar, that would be helpful.

[edwardb]

For the Moroso reservoir, with the front mounting using brackets wrapped around the radiator top support (similar to what I did) the bottom mount for the reservoir should be close to the fan shroud. Very important IMO to get a solid connection there so it's triangulated. I made another piece that the the reservoir sets on there. Hard to get an overall height dimension though. Too many curves and angles. Just looked at mine. The back top corner (toward the firewall) of the reservoir is roughly in line with the bottom of the hood 3/4-inch surround tubes if you were to project that line over to both sides. Hopefully that makes sense. Mine clears the hood fine, and is high enough that the cooling system hooks up OK and works great. Hope that helps.

[Ducky2009]

24 weeks in... This is how I believe the CMCV should be routed based on diagram in this thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-CMCV-Plumbing). Using these connections also means that if that is not the correct routing, I can easily change it.

You didn't discuss this.... Did you connect to the CMCV vacuum posts at the rear of the engine (two places)? This (along with the electrical switch) is what makes the CMCV work.

CMCV - Vacuum Hoses.jpg

[edwardb]

You didn't discuss this.... Did you connect to the CMCV vacuum posts at the rear of the engine (two places)? This (along with the electrical switch) is what makes the CMCV work.

CMCV - Vacuum Hoses.jpg

Actually the connections you're pointing to are vents. On earlier versions of the Gen2 Coyote those were connected to the intake. On later versions, Ford deleted the hose to the intake and vents them to atmosphere. The vacuum signal that those switches control is on the other side.

The CMCV system gets its vacuum from the reservoir in the manifold, which needs to be hooked up to the vacuum connection at the front of the engine by the throttle body. Check this vacuum diagram for the system. This is the older version showing the vent tube to the intake. Ford apparently doesn't have a newer one.

[Ducky2009]

Actually the connections you're pointing to are vents. On earlier versions of the Gen2 Coyote those were connected to the intake. On later versions, Ford deleted the hose to the intake and vents them to atmosphere. The vacuum signal that those switches control is on the other side.

The CMCV system gets its vacuum from the reservoir in the manifold, which needs to be hooked up to the vacuum connection at the front of the engine by the throttle body. Check this vacuum diagram for the system. This is the older version showing the vent tube to the intake. Ford apparently doesn't have a newer one.

I originally connected the supplied line (2017 is on the PS, same as your diagram. Your car pics show it on the DS) to the cold air inlet, same as you. The CMCV was open, great for performance, bad for gas mileage. I called Ford racing and they acted like this has never happened before. After talking to them a second time, that person told me the hose is no longer supplied from them, but is installed on factory cars. I also had a fault. After reading someone's (???) post, it suggested connecting to the ports as I did. The CMCV is now functioning correctly.

Edwardb - I thought it was your post that showed a hose from the intake to the CMCV connections and fuel regulator

[edwardb]

I originally connected the supplied line (2017 is on the PS, same as your diagram. Your car pics show it on the DS) to the cold air inlet, same as you. The CMCV was open, great for performance, bad for gas mileage. I called Ford racing and they acted like this has never happened before. After talking to them a second time, that person told me the hose is no longer supplied from them, but is installed on factory cars. I also had a fault. After reading someone's (???) post, it suggested connecting to the ports as I did. The CMCV is now functioning correctly.

Agreed the support from Ford on this feature isn't great. They supplied the posted vacuum diagram and that was about it. Factory Five doesn't address the feature in the revised Coyote installation instructions either. They show using the required vacuum port for the fuel regulator vacuum signal. That's it.

I went through a couple revisions to get mine to work, and ended up with the CMCV vacuum supply line on the opposite side as it came from the factory. But that doesn't matter. What does matter is there has to be a line from the vacuum port on the front of the engine by the throttle body to the connection on the back of the intake going into the vacuum reservoir. That's true for all versions. If your CMCV system is working, then yours must be connected.

I haven't gotten a CMCV DTC since mine was plumbed this way, now approaching 1000 miles. Just today was doing some data logging, and can see in the data where the PCM is commanding the IMRC valves to open and close. With no codes, they are apparently doing what they're told. Hopefully yours is the same.

No need to continue this discussion in Joel's build thread.

[jdavis500]

Joel,

Your red outline of the CMCV plumbing made me do a double-take. Just sayin'...

[Jdav]

Joel,

Your red outline of the CMCV plumbing made me do a double-take. Just sayin'...

It does have a certain shape that I'm sure most of us are familiar with

[Jdav]

25 weeks in

A lot of progress this week. I finished fabbing up the coolant tank mount (including a piece that the bottom of the tank sits on) and got it installed and all of the radiator plumbing. Got the intake in. Ran the power steering lines, including a cooler.

And then, 175 days since my kit arrived, I had my first start!

I got a little nervous as it took a while for gas to get in the system. It ran a little rough once it did fire up, but subsequent starts had a nice smooth growl.
Needless to say, it was an exciting day.

https://youtu.be/PX79sCEr3Bc
https://youtu.be/DuP8kJq_YSM

[Papa]

Congrats! I'm a loooong way from the first start milestone.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I got your video text Joel---CONGRATS!

Jeff

[Ducky2009]

Congrats Joel!

[wareaglescott]

Congrats! Great progress. Go cart next!

[WIS89]

Joel-
Awesome, congratulations on your first start!!! What a great milestone, and I know you must feel great!!!

Way to go!!

Regards,

Steve

[Jdav]

My fuel gauge is not reading properly. I only put ~1 gallon of gas in for the first start, but gauge is reading as full.
I am using the FFR supplied level sender and the vintage gauges. Do I need to calibrate?

[edwardb]

My fuel gauge is not reading properly. I only put ~1 gallon of gas in for the first start, but gauge is reading as full.
I am using the FFR supplied level sender and the vintage gauges. Do I need to calibrate?

Sounds like it. The FFR supplied sending unit is normally the Ford 16 -158 Ohms unit. According to the Speedhut instructions the factory default setting is 240 Ohms empty and 33 Ohms full. If that's really what it is, you're going to get some bad readings. Check the instructions for the calibration process. It's real simple. For your sending unit, the needle should be at the 7/8 full point during calibration.

Side note: I'd personally put another gallon or two in the tank. One gallon isn't much. Lots of tanks still have a little fuel in them when the pickup isn't able to draw any more. Could give inconsistent results, might even be why your first start was a little hesitant. Normally the in-tank pump fills the line and puts pressure on the fuel rails very quickly.

[wareaglescott]

I noticed when I put three gallons in and I parked on a slight incline there seemed to be some hesitation in the motor as well after the first few starts/run cycles. Certainly before I would have used a couple gallons. I attributed that to not enough fuel around the pickup. I would put some more in there as well like Paul mentioned.

[Jdav]

26 Weeks in
This week I have been doing a fine tuning: calibrating and checking the tach & fuel level sender, checking my fluids after running a bit, etc. all seems well.
I also re-bled my brakes as the pedal was a bit soft. I don't think I got all the air out originally. I was fearing that my MC was faulty, but the pedal has been firm since the re-bleed.
I also replaced the oil pressure sender. I broke off one of the studs when trying to connect the wires (it's not just you WarEagleScott).
I also redid the shifter block off plate, cutting it down to mount it flush and attaching from underneath with a brace and some JG weld. And I attached a steel plate underneath on the forward part of the tunnel so that I can do the magnetic cup holder (I forget who's idea this was).
Finally, I've been chasing down some wiring issues. At first my headlights weren't working and the flashers had the wrong indicator lights, but I have all that sorted now. My remaining issue is that my turn signals aren't working.

[Jdav]

I am at the point of mounting my seats. I have the standard vintage roadster seats; any concern with positioning them before putting the body on?

[edwardb]

I am at the point of mounting my seats. I have the standard vintage roadster seats; any concern with positioning them before putting the body on?

Yes. Don't. You want the body on before establishing the final seal locations. You'll find the outside corners end up real close or even contacting the body.

[Jdav]

I am hearing a noise that I don't think should be there, but have no idea what it is or how to fix it.
Any ideas?
https://youtu.be/hAfx6gADRyY

[pierreb]

Reading this on phone so it's hard to navigate, but could it be PS pump noise?

[Jdav]

It is definitely coming from the area around the power steering pump/belt. I have ps fluid in and steering seems fine,although I haven't driven more than 40ft and made no real turns.

[Jdav]

Definitely something with the power steering
Noise gets worse as the wheel is turned. And a bit of ps fluid comes out of the reservoir vent
Here is another video
https://youtu.be/lzjmt2B3kLs

[Jdav]

Problem solved. I evidently had some air trapped in the line. A few turns with the cap off and the fluid level dropped almost to zero. Added more fluid, did a fed more turns and fluid seemed to be going in and out as expected. Turned the car on and the sound was gone.

[pierreb]

Problem solved. I evidently had some air trapped in the line. A few turns with the cap off and the fluid level dropped almost to zero. Added more fluid, did a fed more turns and fluid seemed to be going in and out as expected. Turned the car on and the sound was gone.

Nice one! Gotta like the simple fixes once in a while.

[Ducky2009]

Problem solved. I evidently had some air trapped in the line. A few turns with the cap off and the fluid level dropped almost to zero. Added more fluid, did a fed more turns and fluid seemed to be going in and out as expected. Turned the car on and the sound was gone.

Good Deal! Glad to hear nothing major.

Did you get your turn signals working?

[Jdav]

27 weeks in
I couldn't get the turn signals working and traced the problem to the RT turn signal switch. Russ was helpful and I have sent it back to him to try to fix. I also cured my power steering pump noise as detailed above. Roll bars also were installed, I'm using the tangent kit instead of the Frankenstein bolt on the top. I also mounted my harness.
Originally I thought the build would take me close to a year, so I got on Kleiner's list for paint/body work around December/January. I've progressed much more quickly than anticipated, but Jeff can't fit me in early. Instead, I plan to just finish out the car and get it registered and drive in gel coat until he's ready for me.

[Jdav]

28 weeks in
Not much action this week between being sick and really only having the finishing work left.
I did re-bleed my brakes as they were a bit too soft for my liking on my driveway go kart runs.

[Jdav]

I got my turn signal back from Russ, hooked it up and all worked as intended!
He said there was some corrosion on the switch that was preventing a connection. All fixed now and good to go.

[Jdav]

29 Weeks in
As noted above, I got my turn signal back and installed and working.
Carpet also started to go in the cockpit and the trunk



And I put the body back on for the first time since the start of the project.


Although I dont think things are lining up quite right. I do have the bulb seal on the firewall and trunk walls and floor (but not rear cockpit wall) and the foam weatherstripping on the trunk hoop and engine bay tubes. I also have the quickjack bolts loosely installed on both front and rear. But my front wheels are not centered in the wheel well and almost touching in the front.
Is this a body alignment issue (the body doesnt seem to want to move any further forward) or a wheel alignment issue (I have not done an alignment yet?

[edwardb]

Without the required caster, it's possible you could be that far off. But you also need to check that your body is far enough forward. My guess is maybe some of both. Check this post from Jeff Kleiner that describes where the body should be specifically at the door striker location along with possible adjustments. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post210332.

[Ducky2009]

Joel, I adjusted the rear adjustment until it ran out of travel, and achieved 6 degrees caster setting (see pic). Manual steering should be 3, power steering 7 degrees. I left it at 6 degrees. The greater the caster setting, the harder it is to steer into a turn (power steering solves this issue), but the easier the car wheels straighter out after your turn (when you let go of the steering wheel). I purchased a Fasttrax and did my own alignment. Let me know if you want to use it.

This adjustment will bring the wheel back.

Caster Adjustment.jpg

[Jdav]

30 weeks in
No progress this week. I'm at a point where I need a helper to get the body on and off and finalize my interior, but my trusty helper was sick this week. Hopefully I'll get a lot done this week as football season will definitely eat into my cobra time.

[wareaglescott]

30 weeks in
No progress this week. I'm at a point where I need a helper to get the body on and off and finalize my interior, but my trusty helper was sick this week. Hopefully I'll get a lot done this week as football season will definitely eat into my cobra time.

What is this football season you speak of?

[Jdav]

31 weeks in
I was able to finish up the majority of my interior.
I had the trans tunnel professionally wrapped in vinyl and a french seam down each edge. I provided the materials and used a UV grade vinyl and 1/8" volera foam that I had bought online. think it looks really nice.
I also wanted the back cockpit wall covered in the same vinyl, but estimates to do it professionally were more than I wanted to spend, so I tried it on my own. We thought about a couple of ways of doing it and settled on first cutting the foam to shape. Then gluing an oversized cut of the vinyl to the foam. We then wrapped the vinyl over the edges of the foam in any place there would be an exposed edge. And finally gluing that piece to the cockpit wall. While its not perfect, I'm really pleased with how it came out and I love the look.