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Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
That was my reaction as well. It is a stainless steel bellmouth into a 3" Vibrant muffler. I believe it is this part: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...products_id=29
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Also wait until you go and aim the headlights. You cant reach the adjusters with everything bolt together. Its a real pain good luck you will be fine.
On another note how do you like his exhaust, have you driven with it in gocart form or just threw it on there. If given the choice would you go quieter to get rid of drone. Only reason why Im asking is because I esentially have the same setup if its from vibrant just routed different and mine drones like no other when cruising. How much was his setup? Its not listed on his site.
The video is everything I've done with it. At idle it is just as loud as the donor cat but the vibrant muffler makes a smoother sound. I wont be driving it until I get the car tuned on the 20th, will have more video then. Wayne sold it for $375.
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Looks like you will beat me to the tune. Looking good.
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)
Keep up the great, fast paced work! What's the quickest someone has ever put one of these together?
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
That looks great! Were you able to get the hood to sit flush? Be prepared to do a bit more trimming when you install the windshield, as it pushes everything out and forward in awkward ways.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Try replacing the worm clamp with an oem spring type clamp. Often times what happens is the rubber starts to give a little after tightening, especially when heated, the worm clamps cant apply any more tension, then they leak.
I'm a huge fan of the constant tension spring clamps icky mentioned. You can get them from mcMaster or there is also a seller on Amazon who sells them (same ones as mcMaster). They are rated for their ideal EXPANDED diameter. So take some calipers to the hose (which has been attached to whatever you attach it to) and get a measurement then find the closest spring clamp to it. Nearly all (if not all) OEMs use these exclusively and have for decades.
I will say that what you show above might not be an issue. Many coolants are designed to self-seal when exposed to air (like blood), and a very tiny amount of crusted coolant showing right at the edge of the hose is not necessarily an issue, at least, not in my experience. I see that on two of my cars and haven't had to add coolant in over two years to either of them.
The other option is instead of using those dual layer adapter/coupler setups from FFR, you can just buy another WRX radiator hose and cut it. Do that and you don't need any of the couplers. I have a pic of it in my build thread.
A stressful couple of days. I attempted to arrange an alignment and tune at two different shops on the same day to minimize time off from work and trailer rental. Needless to say that didn't go as planned. The alignment shop wasn't able to fix the front camber since I mounted the lower control arms on the wrong points. However, they were able to align the rears which was good enough to get it tuned. Then at the tuning shop their main tuner was out sick . Next day, had the shop moved the lower control arms outward and then put it on the dyno.
It pulled about 205hp, due to the injectors being too small and needing an 3port boost solenoid.
Then took it back to the alignment shop for the front, no problem there except that the aluminum panel on the bottom caught on the uhaul trailer on the last load .
A couple stressful days but at the end of it I'm still very happy. Nothing major wrong and the car goes like hell!
Last edited by TouchStone; 07-21-2015 at 10:49 PM.
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Congrats!!!!
What were your final alignment settings? Also, which control arms do you have and which points did you have to move them to?
We wanted more camber out of our aluminum arms, but when we tried to move them to the outer hole we ran out of the tie rod length, so instead we had to cut the upper arms shorter to bring the top in.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Oh yeah, and we had the exact same panel get bent on the u-haul trailer one time. Those trailers are not made for sports cars!
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
The injectors came from my 2.0L donor, which has been rebuilt as a 2.5L hybrid. This is also the reason I was only getting 10psi of boost. They only recommended a boost solenoid and a bigger turbo (currently TD04) for even more hp.
I've got control arms from a 2003 wagon. They were mounted on the inner lower points and I could not shorten the uppers enough had a lot of positive camber. The correct position was the lower outer mount points. This was good news to me since it will largely fix my terrible turning radius.
The "Before Measurements" would be the maximum camber I could get with the lower arms on the outer holes and the upper arms as short as possible (no cutting).
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Looking good!
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)
Got the dash installed. Made a couple stupid mistakes like breaking off a tab on the gauge cluster and drilling some badly aligned holes. A bit of epoxy will have to do.
I'm concerned about the dash having only 2 screws to hold the front up. I don't plan on having a center console to help hold the middle either so I'm worried a single afternoon in the Texas sun will be enough to deform the dash and sag around the mount points. Anyone have a solution for better securing the dash?
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
The padded dash looks very nice. You've progressed very quickly on this build!
To better support the dash, you can just make an extra bracket or 2 from thin aluminum that look like the FFR ones. Doesn't have to be super thick, just use something in the range of the aluminum that is all over the rest of the car. Just make them wider. I replaced the right side bracket with one that is about 4-5 inches wide and attaches to the frame in 2 spots and the bottom of the dash in 2 spots because the FFR one wasn't the right size for where my dash ended up. I am going to have a center console though to support the middle.
But you could just as easily keep the 2 FFR brackets on the end, and make something 6-8 inches wide with 2 or 3 mount points and tuck it under the center of the dash.
Suggest putting your doors on first though to make sure the dash lines up right.
I also put a strip of foam weatherstripping on the cowl where the dash sits near the windshield plus a piece of rubber moulding on the leading edge of the dash, so it tucks up tight with the windshield. Then I put a black 1/4-20 bolt through each corner of the dash to the fiberglass cowl to keep it in place. No need for a rivnut as it's easy to reach up under the dash even with the doors in place.
Ah...but it is not padded.
I like the FFR styled brackets since they mount at a single point, which allows for a slight adjustment of the dash left and right. I think I'll install a couple more of these and see how it holds up. Once the doors go on I'm thinking possibly an aluminum angle beam from the leftovers I used on the front bumper. I've thought of the weather stripping as well .
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
We put velcro under the dash along the windshield edge (out of sight) and it feels much more secure now.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
The bigger issue I had with the doors went on was actually up and down. If the height isn't just right, it's really obvious/awkward at the point where the dash and door meet. The super rigid FFR brackets don't provide a lot of flexibility in that without stacking loads of washers here or there. That's why I suggested door panels first before fixing the location of the dash.
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Changed out my gauge cluster lights with some LED lights I found on amazon. $10 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
The color and brightness look much better. Some locations ended up being too bright so I left the old bulbs in.
Picture comparison is not great since my camera kept adjusting the brightness. For reference the brake,battery,oil and MIL lights did not change in brightness.
Before:
After: I think the fuel and temp gauge is too bright, will probably try to de-solder one of the led elements.
Last edited by TouchStone; 07-30-2015 at 10:20 PM.
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Really like the new LED lighting in the cluster. More money to spend
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Try this for the plastic bonding. Ive had great results with it
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-P...1925/100371829
I found that pvc cement worked well for the plastic in the cluster. It melted the pieces together as it should. It took overnight to fully harden. It does attack the plastic so don't get it where you don't want it.
Larry
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
I did that kind of thing on my Corrado cluster years ago. It turned out awesome and very reliable too. You'll love it.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
Sooooo how's the injector install going?
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)