EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

[edwardb]

Build is looking beautiful !! It looks like that shop, must be run meticulous. Matches your build. Gotta say your build threads have been very helpful. My vote is you should rewrite the next Factory Five Manuals as your next big project. Id buy it

Even though my build is complete, I would pay big bucks for a copy of Paul's forum submissions to have as a reference manual. His posts certainly provided valuable guidance as I proceeded through the build process. Thanks Paul.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the generous comments. Personally, I think the Factory Five manual serves a purpose. Plus if you haven't seen earlier versions (pre-Mk4) you may not realize how much it has improved. The biggest challenge IMO is the Roadster can be built with so many variations it's just not possible to cover them all in a lot of detail. Plus not too many of us do a stock build, whatever that is. There was a thread about that not too long ago and (no surprise) it turned into a list of modifications. I guess we can't help ourselves.

[edwardb]

Wow! That is what I call one efficient painter. Hell I would pay a premium to get a painter who would meet his timelines.

Well, it's not done yet. But they delivered #7750 exactly when they said they would. So confident this will be the same. I don't have experience with a lot of different shops, but this one is different than any other one I've dealt with. Once a car is in the work queue, that's the only project they work on until it's done. In this case, I waited 2+ months for my start date, but when it arrived they started work on the same day. I agree. Impressive. It's a high end shop, only doing custom work. No insurance collision repair going on here. So not cheap. But wasn't the most expensive I got quotes from either. Plus they're local for me so no transportation costs.

[KDubU]

Well, it's not done yet. But they delivered #7750 exactly when they said they would. So confident this will be the same. I don't have experience with a lot of different shops, but this one is different than any other one I've dealt with. Once a car is in the work queue, that's the only project they work on until it's done. In this case, I waited 2+ months for my start date, but when it arrived they started work on the same day. I agree. Impressive. It's a high end shop, only doing custom work. No insurance collision repair going on here. So not cheap. But wasn't the most expensive I got quotes from either. Plus they're local for me so no transportation costs.

That's the way it should be. I know not all these cars come together perfectly when prepping the car for paint but giving an estimated completion in weeks and blowing that by month(s) indicates to me a problem that was not communicated. Communication is key to keeping happy customers and it looks like your guy is doing that in spades. Can wait to see your blue roadster .

[Vette1972]

Paul,

The primer paint looks good enough to drive as is. Great work by the shop. You have to be happy with the look at this point. I've really enjoyed your thread on this build. Red Soon!

Thanks again,
Len

[edwardb]

Received another batch of pics last night from my painter. Doesn't look too different, but I'm not sure he feels that way after spending three days block sanding. I remain very happy (and impressed) with how everything looks, how the panels and doors fit, etc. There was a question about panels, doors, jambs, etc. Jambs are done now as can be seen in the pics. Everything is off the car now. He said he will prime doors, hood, and trunk lid today. I'm thinking we're going to see some color next week.

On the home front, my demo for our remodel is 100% done and cleaned up. Had to rent a demolition hammer from Home Depot to get the last of the tile and cement board off the floor. I'd still be chiseling if I hadn't. What a mess. Yesterday I just about finished getting everything loaded into the dumpster. This demo plus all the junk I took out of the basement right before we moved in is filling up a 30 yard dumpster. Will get that done today and then really am ready for paint to be done. Received a call from the Autorama main guy. Had a couple questions about my app, but looks like I'm in. Hope to score a nice spot on the show floor. Won't know until move-in. But there's also the small matter of getting the build done.

[edwardb]

Today I finished a few more details. My punch list is now completely done with as many things as I can think of completed and now waiting for my build to be back from paint. If all goes according to plan, I should have 20-30 days after paint to have the build ready for Autorama. Should be plenty of time, even at my pace. But I’ve tried to get everything as ready as I can. This update will show a few of those, most bordering a little on OCD. But that’s how it is.

I like wind wings and visors. The ones I have are the Factory Five versions, scored for half price at the 2015 Open House. They were the very first parts bought for this build. I also really like the Breeze wind wing installed rear view mirrors. I’ve had them on each of my builds. Not cheap, but super high quality and you can really see out the back with them.

First up for the visors. Mounted the brackets on the plexi panels. Then proceeded to put the mounting clips on the windshield. This gets a lot of forum discussion. Unfortunately, this has been the source of multiple windshield breaks. Right inside the mounting holes on the top of the windshield frame is a rubber gasket and not far behind that is glass. Get into the glass with much force and bad things happen. Some mount the visors on the top channel and avoid the visor mounting holes completely. I’ve not found that necessary. First, the visors come with 6-32 flat head mounting screws. They did not thread into the provided holes. Some interpret this as plating in the threads, get out a 6-32 tap, and you can guess the rest. Some have gone so far as to take the complete windshield apart so the holes could be tapped. I’ve had one apart, and while not real difficult, still something I prefer not to do. The answer is the threads aren’t 6-32. At least the ones I’ve done. They’re M3 metric threads. M3 x 0.5 mm go in perfectly. The next thing is to make sure they are the exact right length, and don’t go any further than just inside the frame. My local Ace had some M3 x 6mm long SS screws. But I found a better choice at McMaster. 90258A173 are 5mm long and a nicer looking oval head. They fit the provided mounting clips perfectly. Using a pin gauge, I measured each hole and carefully took a little off the end of each screw so it went in only as far as necessary. Just a touch on the sanding disk was about all it took for each. Then mounted all four clips. Not too exciting, but this is one of them. Note I also drilled a small countersink for the visor mounting set screw on each mounting clip at the location determined in a quick mock-up. Gives them a solid lock.



Next was the wind wings. There are several ways to mount these (which side to have the brackets, etc.) but with the Breeze mirrors needing to be on the inside, pretty much only one way they can go. The mirrors come with mounting screws. But the problem is the mirrors are threaded for 10-24, while the visor mounting hardware is all 10-32. So if used as is, there would be oval Phillips head machine screws on the top bracket, and round slotted head screws and acorn nuts on the bottom bracket. My OCD kicking in again. What I did was take 10-24 bolts that had an unthreaded section, trimmed the heads off, and cut about 1/4-inch of 10-32 threads onto each. Then threaded them into four of the 10-32 acorn nuts with some red Loctite. Instant 10-24 bolts with matching acorn nut heads. This is the third time I’ve done this. My other builds I did exactly the same thing.

These are the assembled wind wings with the Breeze mirrors, ready to mount on the windshield after it goes on the car. Not pictured, but I also put small countersinks in the windshield side frames for the wind wing set screws, like already shown for the visors.



Top and bottom mounting hardware (visible from outside the car) all match. Mirror is on the right hand side in this pic. Note I also only remove the backing paper from the mounting areas until final installation.



Doesn’t add much, but this is a closer view of the acorn headed bolts.



Another modification I really like is a top mounted center rear view mirror versus mounting it on the body above the dash. Dark Water Customs has supplied the top windshield mounting bracket I used on my previous builds. Not as easy to get now, but I put one on the Dark Water wish list and received it some weeks later. When I went to mount it this weekend though, found the supplied hex nuts didn’t engage the ends of the opening quite well enough. So I tapped 5mm – 8 threads into two rectangular pieces made from steel nut plates. They fit into the slot and go far enough in to hold better. Here’s a pic of them installed in the proper location in the top of the windshield with a bit of JB Weld to keep them from sliding around. Also seen in this pic is 1/4-inch OD vacuum line pushed into the slot in the top of the windshield. For those of us not planning to install a top, filling that slot gives it a nice finished and trimmed look. Saw this in another build thread some years ago and have copied it since. The Dark Water bracket covers the ends of the tube showing here.



Finally, I took four pieces of carpet to the local auto upholstery shop that’s done a few other parts for this build and had binding sewn on the edges. The very first time I saw a Mk4 Roadster I was a bit surprised to see the raw edge of carpet along the sill by the door openings. The Mk3 carpet wrapped around this edge in one piece. But the Mk4 was changed to separate pieces. So for #7750, I had binding sewn on this edge and it looked much more finished. So duplicated this same thing on this build, but a few additions. It’s a little hard to see, but you can see the binding on the long edge, but also on a few other sides and corners. When installed, all exposed edges of this piece will have a bound edge.



Also I had the transmission tunnel pieces bound. I showed the leather wrapped transmission tunnel cover in an earlier update. I cut the supplied transmission tunnel carpet piece into the two pieces required for the sides. Then had three sides bound. This will give a finished edge along the front and back and alongside the transmission tunnel cover.



That’s it. Everything is bagged and tagged and ready for final assembly. Hopefully sometime this week I’ll be posting pictures of the body with some final color. We’re about halfway through the time estimate for the paint.

[DaleG]

If you are going w PS AND AC, here is one that works well but is very expensive, though it does include the AC compressor and PS pump:

http://www.vintageair.com/cyotfrntrnnr.asp

[charlesshoults]

Hello. I must say that the detail you put into the build is very nice. I'm currently in the wish list phase and am using some of your images as inspiration for what I want to build. I'm planning to use a Ford 5.0L Coyote engine with a 6-speed Tremec and the 8.8" IRS with 3.55 gears. Do you have power steering on all three cars? How important do you find power steering to be on a roadster? I'm leaning toward a manual steering rack to reduce cost and complexity.

[edwardb]

Hello. I must say that the detail you put into the build is very nice. I'm currently in the wish list phase and am using some of your images as inspiration for what I want to build. I'm planning to use a Ford 5.0L Coyote engine with a 6-speed Tremec and the 8.8" IRS with 3.55 gears. Do you have power steering on all three cars? How important do you find power steering to be on a roadster? I'm leaning toward a manual steering rack to reduce cost and complexity.

Thanks. Glad my build thread is helpful. The power steering question is discussed a lot, and for me a real easy answer. The difference is huge and I won't have one without it. No, I didn't have power steering on all three builds. I didn't have it on my first one (Mk3) and for me it was the single biggest build mistake. I was going to add power steering, but built #7750 instead, this time with power steering. The current owner of the Mk3 still gives me grief (good natured, mostly ) that it doesn't have power steering. The current build had power steering in the build plan from the beginning. Listen carefully to the logic. Many only hear half. Of course reduced effort is a factor. Not so much once you're moving. Manual steering is pretty OK then. But slow and or trying to park manual steering is a handful. So reduced effort is nice. The other payoff though is with power steering you can double the front end caster which results in better centering and straight line stability of the car. My Mk3 had Mustang SN95 spindles and manual steering. Both Mk4's have had the newer Factory Five 2-piece spindles and power steering. With the improved front end geometry of the 2-piece spindles and the increased caster with power steering the driving difference is dramatic. Really night and day. So obviously I recommend those spindles as well. There are lots of ways you can save money on these builds. Spindles and power steering isn't a place I would try to save. One final note. How are you planning to use the car? If any track or auto-x in your future, pretty much mandatory for power steering there.

Some will say power steering is "too light" and takes away feedback to the driver. Good points, and it is necessary to have the right setup. Having some way to adjust the boost so that it's the right amount without being overboosted is an important part of the installation. I chose the KRC setup because they have multiple flow valves to get it just the way you want. Others will install a Heidts valve. There is a "cut spring" mod that many have used, but I'm not sure that's possible for pumps that will fit a Coyote. Pretty sure that's a GM pump thing, but I'm not positive. No experience. I have an electric pump on #7750 and I can adjust the boost with that. Nice setup, but not cheap. There are some direct power steering setups as well, but I don't have any experience with those either and aren't too common. Hope that all helps.

You mention 6-speed. Nothing wrong with that, but IMO not really needed. These cars are really light and 5-speed does the job. Do the calculations on final transmission drive and diff ratio. Get that right and 5-speed works great. The second overdrive really isn't needed. The TKO is a perfect match with the Coyote. It fills the transmission tunnel. Things get pretty tight with a 6-speed and the driveshaft is even shorter. Both doable, but I'd take a second look at it.

Of course these are all my opinions. You can find many others so learn to search on both forums. Both of these subjects are discussed a lot. You will need to decide for yourself. As we say around here a lot, it's your build. Do it the way you want. Good luck!

[donshapansky]

I have the Coyote installed in a '33HR and I was able to use a Ford compressor mounted to the engine block with the stretchy Gates belt and electric power steering. I have the schematic to integrate the A/C operation into the PDB of the Coyote engine that was developed here by 2bking for a Roadster he built. The finished package is compact and works well for a lot less than the Vintage system that would not fit a '33.

[edwardb]

I have the Coyote installed in a '33HR and I was able to use a Ford compressor mounted to the engine block with the stretchy Gates belt and electric power steering. I have the schematic to integrate the A/C operation into the PDB of the Coyote engine that was developed here by 2bking for a Roadster he built. The finished package is compact and works well for a lot less than the Vintage system that would not fit a '33.

OK... No A/C going on with this build. I've seen that PS built into a couple Roadsters. Certainly works but there's some fabrication involved and not sure how it fits with the large Coyote sized engine.

[edwardb]

Today the shop ask me to approve the first sprayouts of the color. Rather than rely on pictures, I drove down and saw them in person. The back of the trunk, hood, scoop and trunk access panel were completed including clear coat. Surprise! Looks like candy red. More precisely Ford Red Candy 2 Metallic, code RZ. It's just a bit lighter than #7750, which I'm really happy about. Love the color on #7750. But it looks a little dark if the sun isn't shining or the lights aren't bright. Don't think that will be the case with this color. This shop uses Standox paints and has the full mixing setup. This is a solvent base (not water base) tri-coat. It's going to be amazing. Final guide coat sanding is happening on the body right now. A week from now they are promising all the color and stripes will be done. And then several more days to cut and buff the clearcoat. We're getting there. I snapped these pics about an hour ago. The trunklid and scoop are probably most what it looks like in person. The light is a little funky on the hood.

[charlesshoults]

Of all of the tasks required to complete the car, wiring is the part I look forward to the least. It looks like a tremendous amount of work. I like all of the mechanical work. I'm taking a second look at power steering option to see what parts I would need and how much it would cost to get it all done. For the transmission, the TKO-600 does seem like a better idea than going with a 6-speed, given the compact nature of the car. I have a 1973 Ford toploader 3-speed if I really wanted to use that, but no. Not enough gears, weighs 125 pounds and would very likely not mate up to a Coyote. A TKO-600 with a 0.64 5th gear ratio seems fine.

I looked through the tread and couldn't find it. What part number oil pan did you use?

For my own project, I have no intention of using the plastic 5.0 cover that sits on top of the engine. I like the exposed look better. How much clearance do you have between the top of the engine and the bottom of the hood?

[edwardb]

Of all of the tasks required to complete the car, wiring is the part I look forward to the least. It looks like a tremendous amount of work.

Wiring is routinely cited as the most difficult part of the build by many builders. Take it a step at a time. There are options for outside help if you really want it.

I looked through the tread and couldn't find it. What part number oil pan did you use?

I used the Moroso 20570 with Moroso 24570 pickup. Remove the stock pan and pickup, bolt these on with the stock bolts and leave the stock gasket and windage tray in place. Pretty easy. I believe Canton also has one, but don't know any details.

For my own project, I have no intention of using the plastic 5.0 cover that sits on top of the engine. I like the exposed look better. How much clearance do you have between the top of the engine and the bottom of the hood?

I hear you. Without the cover a lot of hoses and wires are left exposed. So that's kind of a trade-off. I'm customizing mine a bit, it's going to look slightly different than stock. Just saw it in process yesterday at the paint shop. I'm also dressing things up a bit with shiny coil covers vs. the plain plastic ones. Obviously your choice though.

[GoDadGo]

That's A Killer Color Sir EdwardB!

[Paul Mischenko]

Awesome color. Are you choosing a white stripes? My car will be the Mystic Midnight Blue from FF, and trying to get the White stripe to match to our engine bay panels, but haven't found a matching paint color in the Glasurit paints....

[edwardb]

Awesome color. Are you choosing a white stripes? My car will be the Mystic Midnight Blue from FF, and trying to get the White stripe to match to our engine bay panels, but haven't found a matching paint color in the Glasurit paints....

Yes. White stripes. Not trying to match the Prismatic Powders soft satin white that's on the engine bay panels. Although an interesting idea.

I'm doing GM Arctic White. I want a bright white to contrast with the candy red.

[Dave Howard]

For my own project, I have no intention of using the plastic 5.0 cover that sits on top of the engine. I like the exposed look better. How much clearance do you have between the top of the engine and the bottom of the hood?

A number of Coyote builds (including mine) have replaced the stock intake and plastic covers for the BOSS302 intake and dress up kit. A different look from convention. There's plenty of clearance to allow this option.

[edwardb]

A number of Coyote builds (including mine) have replaced the stock intake and plastic covers for the BOSS302 intake and dress up kit. A different look from convention. There's plenty of clearance to allow this option.

Have to agree. The BOSS intake is better looking than the stock intake. These are pics of the FF 20th Anniversary prototype I took at the 2015 open house when it was introduced. For the Gen 1 Coyote it added some power in the higher RPM's with some sacrifice at the lower end. For the Gen 2 Coyote, every review and test I've seen is pretty neutral. The better flowing heads and bigger valves on the Gen 2 Coyote seem to make up the difference. So in the end, for the newer Coyote anyway, becomes mainly an appearance thing. Ford Performance has the GT350 intake for the Gen 2 Coyote, but it appears (again) to mainly be a higher RPM increase and IMO doesn't look any better than stock. Plus not a cheap upgrade.

[Dave Howard]

Here's the BOSS302 with "dress up" kit. Helps to hide unsightly wires and hoses.

[edwardb]

Here's the BOSS302 with "dress up" kit. Helps to hide unsightly wires and hoses.

Looks nice. Now back to my build thread...

[edwardb]

Big day today for paint. We have full body color. Love all the pics my painter is sending and it’s cool to see the step-by-step progress. These are all from today.

Ready for color on all outside surfaces. Note at this point the underside surfaces, jambs, etc. are complete including clear. Rick said he wanted to do the exterior with everything placed to make sure the metallic and color shades match perfectly. Note also all the wrapping is new. I assume that's for cleanliness, but I didn't ask.





Base coat done. As I mentioned in a previous update, this is a tri-coat. Interesting shade for this stage.





Now the tint coat. Looks amazing.







Work on stripes starts tomorrow. Then clear and final cut/buff. Couldn’t be more pleased with how it’s turning out.

[2bking]

Looking good! The base coat pictures reminds me of mine, same color of course, and thinking the paint people better know what they are doing. The base coat didn't resemble anything like the final color and it was very easy to remove with some mineral spirits. The mid-coat didn't have any durability either. The clear coat makes it hard and tough. It's the touch up paint that's hard to produce. I ended up doing some test mixes until I got the right amount of base, mid-coat and clear coat mixed together to have the same color.

[edwardb]

It's the touch up paint that's hard to produce. I ended up doing some test mixes until I got the right amount of base, mid-coat and clear coat mixed together to have the same color.

Yeah, that's the one downside of the tri-coats. Not the easiest to touch up. It will be a driver, so will get the inevitable stone chips and whatever around the nose. I'll put the usual clear film on the rear flare. Interesting what you did. Will keep that in mind.

[edwardb]

Huge day for paint today. Stripes are done after seeing the layout yesterday. Then four coats of high solid clear. Cut and buff is next, and should be home in my garage late next week for final assembly. Changed things up a bit with a solid contrasting pinstripe, and I like how it sets off the colors. Not much else to say but post some pics.

[wareaglescott]

Looks amazing! Love the addition of the contrast stripe.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Can't wait to see it all together!

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

EdwardB,

Great Looking Pain Jobt!
That color really looks rich & deep.

Steve

[96TennGT]

That looks awesome! I'm not big on red but that's fantastic.

Byron

[cgundermann]

Looks awesome; love the black contrasting stripes!

[RR20AC]

Very nice Paul, I am also going with red with white stripes. This paint looks difficult to touch up. I want to autocross and I think I need a simple paint easily touched up. You should win a lot of awards with this. Jim

[2FAST4U]

Damn! That's a bit**in color!!

[WIS89]

Paul-

WOW, that paint looks great! What a surprise with the contrasting stripe! I didn't see that coming, but it looks terrific!

As with everything on your build, it turned out beautifully! You selected a great color again, and it will look great as it comes together.

I look forward to watching as you bring it all together again. Thank you for allowing us to follow along. I know you are an inspiration to many of us here!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Man that looks sharp! I am excited to see your build completed, it's been a pleasure reading along from the beginning. It's a long way out for color for me, but I have a painter lined up that does beautiful work. I'm toying with the deep blue candy body color with white stripes that have a hint of blue pearl in them. Any thoughts on that color combination?

[edwardb]

Man that looks sharp! I am excited to see your build completed, it's been a pleasure reading along from the beginning. It's a long way out for color for me, but I have a painter lined up that does beautiful work. I'm toying with the deep blue candy body color with white stripes that have a hint of blue pearl in them. Any thoughts on that color combination?

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. The look is exactly what I was going for along with just amazing work by the painter. The pinstripe is something I've seen on several builds, and thought it would be a pretty unique and distinctive look. I simulated what it might look like with varying colors and widths of tape on #7750. Decided to go with the black stripe, and originally it was going to be wider. But the shop suggested 1/4-inch would be best, and they were right on. Just enough. And yea, I did save it as kind of a surprise.

Papa -- I'm a self-professed sucker for red, so I'm not the best person to ask. Your combination sounds cool, but in the end color choice is a very personal choice. Paint it your dream color and don't look back.

[JRL16]

Your car looks amazing Paul. Great paint job to go along with all the great craftsmanship you put into it. Thanks again for all the info. Can't wait to see it finished. Might make it up to autorama to check it out.

[M3ichael]

Paul, Looks amazing! What's your plans after your build is done?

[edwardb]

Paul, Looks amazing! What's your plans after your build is done?

No rest huh? The new Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting. Hoping to see one in our travels this next year. Tentatively planning to go to the Open House in Wareham. Plus I'm sure they'll have it at London. Will look at it very closely. Bunch of projects ahead for our new (to us) house including getting my garage workspace a little more organized. Plus I need to more aggressively market and sell #7750. I don't want to see it go, but that was the deal.

[charlesshoults]

Great colors. Curious how much that paint job is costing. I have a similar treatment in mind but with a very dark blue body color, dark metallic gray Le Mans stripes, each of the two stripes edged on either side with a narrow light blue pin stripe. Black roll bars, black painted and wrapped Breeze quietpipes. Then if I feel like messing with it, stone guards on the headlights.

[edwardb]

Great colors. Curious how much that paint job is costing. I have a similar treatment in mind but with a very dark blue body color, dark metallic gray Le Mans stripes, each of the two stripes edged on either side with a narrow light blue pin stripe. Black roll bars, black painted and wrapped Breeze quietpipes. Then if I feel like messing with it, stone guards on the headlights.

The price of paint for these is discussed a lot. First, there are a number of variables so be careful when reading comparisons. For many "paint" also includes body and panel fitting, adjusting cutouts, hanging doors, installing latches, installing the windshield, etc. There is money to be saved (maybe...) by doing some of that yourself. But many aren't comfortable with it and some painters prefer you not to. For sure don't put any product on the body itself without talking to your painter first. Some won't touch it if you start applying anything. Like filler, primer, etc. I often tell this story. When I was talking to the guy that painted my first build (different than the last two) I said I wanted to do all the body fitting, panel installation, gaps, etc. so all he had to do was bodywork and paint. He said OK but also wouldn't give me his final price estimate until I delivered it to him. He said he had a number of people who did the same thing and it cost them more for him to fix their work than it would have been for him to do it right the first time. Valid point. I was relieved when I delivered it and he said my work was OK. He said I saved about two days of shop time for him. I felt good about that except that it took me many times longer! Definitely the difference between a rank amateur and pro. Second variable is paint colors and paint materials used. Red metallic like this build is one of the most expensive. Well north of $500 per gallon. High quality fillers, clears, etc. are all pricey. Third variable is prices are just plain different depending on where you live. In most cases, there is 150 hours (or more) of work to be done, and shop rates vary a lot.

Regarding this paint job, I'm not going to cite specifics for several reasons. But suffice it to say this is a very high end shop that only does custom work. It shows, but it doesn't come cheap. I did all the basic body fitting, panel installation, cutouts, gapping, etc. They were happy with it when delivered and didn't have to change much. That saved some. Still, my final cost will be at the higher end of the prices cited in threads about paint cost, but nowhere near as much as some. I would suggest you search some of the threads where this subject is discussed and see more details about the variables, what guys have experienced, and options you might have. In the end, unless you're doing it yourself it's not cheap and for many one of the biggest budget surprises.

The most important advice I would give is whoever paints your car, make sure it's someone with experience painting these. Another thing to watch for is time. There have been multiple instances of paint jobs taking many months or more. In a few cases, much more. I had to wait a couple months for my place in line for this shop, but once delivered, they started work that day and has been pretty much non-stop since. I'm scheduled to pick it up later today. That level of service is important to me, and one of the many reasons I chose them.