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LS1 33 Hot Rod Build.
EDIT: See post # 22. Closing until videos are edited for profanity.
Hello everyone! Long time lurker on the forum, finally have started my own build. The car is a Factory Five 33 Hot Rod kit which will be powered by a GM LS1,T56 transmission, and Ford 8.8 three link rear end. Here is a video describing the details of the project and I will be vlogging the entire build of the car. Please subscribe to the Youtube channel to see the build progress. There is also pictures of the build on my Instagram @dizzymarcus. I will also be posting the new videos here. Let me know what you think, thanks!
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Welcome to the madness...looks like you guys will fit right in with this group.
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Heater on high and beer not to cold!!
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Awesome, excited to watch these, and they will certainly be good reference for new builders. FFR did videos for the roadster, but seeing a more recent 33 build will be good (things have changed since the early kits were released)
Where in the great white north are y'all located?
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Moderator
Lol. This is going to be fun
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Originally Posted by
DarthTedious
Awesome, excited to watch these, and they will certainly be good reference for new builders. FFR did videos for the roadster, but seeing a more recent 33 build will be good (things have changed since the early kits were released)
Where in the great white north are y'all located?
Thanks, I know I referenced the F5R Roadster video a few times so hopefully these videos will help some builders out. I live in Edmonton, Alberta.
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Moderator
Great help, thanks! Where did you get your rear end - junkyard/classifieds?
I've just started looking for mine. I'm studying the given tables re years and models and then I'll start calling around. So far all I know is that I'm going for the wider years, with discs and posi.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Great help, thanks! Where did you get your rear end - junkyard/classifieds?
I've just started looking for mine. I'm studying the given tables re years and models and then I'll start calling around. So far all I know is that I'm going for the wider years, with discs and posi.
Thanks! I found mine on Kijiji(pretty much Canadian Craigslist). There was a guy parting out a Mustang he had crashed. He delivered it with brakes for $300 so I think it was fair. I also wanted the wider rear end and disks.
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Great Video! So, something I did after this point was add a Wilwood bias adjuster. This will run squarely into the FFR brace specifically built to interfere with the bias adjuster. I re-fabbed the brace to allow the cable to pass through and travel with the bias bar. Apparently I was unhappy with this discovery and never took any pictures. I also stuffed the roll control on the left side in place of the mustang style cable clutch that I did not use. If I remember, the manual has the reservoir instructions about a 1/2" higher than reality also.
You will want to know what your doing with windshield wipers as that is not in the manual either. I also moved my brake assembly towards the tunnel, but that's not for everyone unless you are fully committed to an internal clutch slave and/or have feet bigger than size 11. My tunnel just clears a standard mustang linkage by maybe 1/2" with the heat shield installed. The clutch requires a 1" master cylinder vice 7/8" because my pedal bumps the steering shaft due to the offset I built. Once you go "off kit" every change has an opposite and equal second modification...
If I was really talented (or cared) I would have put the pedal assembly on a linear screw so I could move it back and forth like a Mercury Sable. That way both elves and jolly green giants could drive the car.
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Moderator
Love these videos, thanks. Cool coat hanger tip.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by
erlihemi
Great Video! So, something I did after this point was add a Wilwood bias adjuster. This will run squarely into the FFR brace specifically built to interfere with the bias adjuster. I re-fabbed the brace to allow the cable to pass through and travel with the bias bar. I also moved my brake assembly towards the tunnel, but that's not for everyone unless you are fully committed my pedal bumps the steering shaft due to the offset I built. Once you go "off kit" every change has an opposite and equal second modification... If I was really talented (or cared) I would have put the pedal assembly on a linear screw so I could move it back and forth like a Mercury Sable. That way both elves and jolly green giants could drive the car.
I'm enjoying the thread so far and not the least bothered by the language, carry on.
Mine's an auto but I did most of the above for different reasons and had most of the same off kit challenges. On an auto you can install the brake bias cable on the drivers side of the bias bar where a clutch pedal would be and not have the issue with hitting the bracket specifically built to interfere with the bias adjuster. I do appreciate you thinking about this elf driving the JGG's car at some point.
DB
Not a baby Hemi HR
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Originally Posted by
myjones
I'm enjoying the thread so far and not the least bothered by the language, carry on.
Mine's an auto but I did most of the above for different reasons and had most of the same off kit challenges. On an auto you can install the brake bias cable on the drivers side of the bias bar where a clutch pedal would be and not have the issue with hitting the bracket specifically built to interfere with the bias adjuster. I do appreciate you thinking about this elf driving the JGG's car at some point.
DB
Not a baby Hemi HR
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Love these videos, thanks. Cool coat hanger tip.
Thanks for the support! I do plan on driving the **** out of this thing eventually haha.
Originally Posted by
erlihemi
Great Video! So, something I did after this point was add a Wilwood bias adjuster. This will run squarely into the FFR brace specifically built to interfere with the bias adjuster. I re-fabbed the brace to allow the cable to pass through and travel with the bias bar. Apparently I was unhappy with this discovery and never took any pictures. I also stuffed the roll control on the left side in place of the mustang style cable clutch that I did not use. If I remember, the manual has the reservoir instructions about a 1/2" higher than reality also.
You will want to know what your doing with windshield wipers as that is not in the manual either. I also moved my brake assembly towards the tunnel, but that's not for everyone unless you are fully committed to an internal clutch slave and/or have feet bigger than size 11. My tunnel just clears a standard mustang linkage by maybe 1/2" with the heat shield installed. The clutch requires a 1" master cylinder vice 7/8" because my pedal bumps the steering shaft due to the offset I built. Once you go "off kit" every change has an opposite and equal second modification...
If I was really talented (or cared) I would have put the pedal assembly on a linear screw so I could move it back and forth like a Mercury Sable. That way both elves and jolly green giants could drive the car.
Ill definitely look into that bias adjuster now. I am a bit concerned about how much leg room there is going to be once I get the tranny tunnel in, looks tight!
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Great videos for those of us who don't already know a lot about cars. (I do my own brakes, plugs and oil, that's about it.) Thanks for sharing.
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Moderator
Just running out to get some new drill bits...
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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I've watched a few of the videos but am bothered by the language so I quit. I don't think the use of prolific foul language is necessary to describe your talent and work and I suspect your potential audience will feel the same way. The movie industry would rate the videos as "R". I don't think its the type of videos the FFR community is expecting.
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Originally Posted by
2bking
I've watched a few of the videos but am bothered by the language so I quit. I don't think the use of prolific foul language is necessary to describe your talent and work and I suspect your potential audience will feel the same way. The movie industry would rate the videos as "R". I don't think its the type of videos the FFR community is expecting.
I have just started watching them with the mute button on. I do see little changes from the newer kit than on my #431 build.
Dale
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Administrator
Originally Posted by
2bking
I've watched a few of the videos but am bothered by the language so I quit. I don't think the use of prolific foul language is necessary to describe your talent and work and I suspect your potential audience will feel the same way. The movie industry would rate the videos as "R". I don't think its the type of videos the FFR community is expecting.
Originally Posted by
myjones
I have just started watching them with the mute button on. I do see little changes from the newer kit than on my #431 build.
Dale
I agree that the videos are unfortunately not appropriate for a family site. Since the OP has editing ability I'm asking that all the foul language be removed. There are a lot of Father/Daughter and Father/Son builds here and some of those helpers are quite young. Our bylaws state that this is a family-friendly site and if the required edits aren't made I'm afraid we will have no choice but to delete the thread.
As it is now, I'm closing this thread until the changes are made.
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
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