Dave, great looking work. I'm right behind you by a couple of days. Please continue to post pictures! They are so helpful. Where did you get the gravel guard--part number and source? Joel
Joel,
I got an 8-foot length along with my line and a ton of fittings (most I'll never use) from Amazon.
However, if you just search for "3/16 gravel guard" on Amazon, there are lots of offerings in different lengths.
I just finished up the front lines (pictures later) and had about 3' of line left over from my 25' roll. I have a bleeder on its way and will get the master cylinders bench bled, then bleed the system and check for leaks; fingers crossed!
Thanks, Dave. I wasn't sure about using the gravel guard on the full length of the line, but I figured it couldn't hurt anything, especially using the softer nickel-copper line. I plan to get started on the front today, but I think I may run out of line before finishing.
I do plan to install Thermo-Tec mat on the floor and cockpit walls, so that will be one of the next tasks I start on. Should I seal up all the gaps with silicone before placing the mat? It seems like I should, but haven't seen much discussion on the topic. Thinking about places for water to drain when the inevitable happens.
Dave
I would seal all the gaps and put a bead of silicone along all the inside corners where panels have been joined. The concern is with water blowing in when the inevitable happens - even with the use of a cauching when joining the panels. Some guys, and the instructors at the build school have mentioned drilling drain holes in the lower floor of each footbox. I've been caught in rain and have been fortunate to either have been driving at highway speed, or have had the top with me. I don't have drain holes.
Another thing to consider. It is important to seal the windshield post around the body. The supplied covers are aesthetic only. Any water coming in on the drivers side winds up on the fuse panel. I found out the hard way and lost both flasher relays. I've sealed the area but thought in the next build I would install a cover over the fuse panel to prevent anything from dripping onto the panel.
I would seal all the gaps and put a bead of silicone along all the inside corners where panels have been joined. The concern is with water blowing in when the inevitable happens - even with the use of a cauching when joining the panels. Some guys, and the instructors at the build school have mentioned drilling drain holes in the lower floor of each footbox. I've been caught in rain and have been fortunate to either have been driving at highway speed, or have had the top with me. I don't have drain holes.
Another thing to consider. It is important to seal the windshield post around the body. The supplied covers are aesthetic only. Any water coming in on the drivers side winds up on the fuse panel. I found out the hard way and lost both flasher relays. I've sealed the area but thought in the next build I would install a cover over the fuse panel to prevent anything from dripping onto the panel.
I also decided that filing the threads from the threaded rod to create my glove box catch looked horrible, so I tried another approach. I bought blank rod and threaded the ends. Looks much better.
Installed in the dash:
I thought about trying to get the angle to be more level, but the latch/catch work perfectly, so I'm going to leave it alone.
Looking good. I had armored brake lines on my Mk3 and always like them. Certainly can't hurt. I didn't use it on the two Mk4 builds with rigid stainless lines. Not going to hurt that stuff. Glad the VW glovebox latch worked out. That's a nice unit. I like how it latches without have to use the key. The one on my other Mk4 was only magnetic. When left unlocked, it would fly open on spirited acceleration. Kind of became the signal my wife used to suggest I was driving too fast. Not flying open now.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Looking good. I had armored brake lines on my Mk3 and always like them. Certainly can't hurt. I didn't use it on the two Mk4 builds with rigid stainless lines. Not going to hurt that stuff. Glad the VW glovebox latch worked out. That's a nice unit. I like how it latches without have to use the key. The one on my other Mk4 was only magnetic. When left unlocked, it would fly open on spirited acceleration. Kind of became the signal my wife used to suggest I was driving too fast. Not flying open now.
Thanks, Paul. I'm wondering how my wife is going to handle "spirited acceleration" in the MK4 when she already has a fit when I flip the BMW into sport mode. Hey, but at least the glove box will stay closed!
I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.
I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...
I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!
I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.
I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...
I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!
Regards,
Steve
Steve,
I think the sound difference alone will nullify that theory. She'll likely tell me to slow down while it's sitting still at idle.
I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.
I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...
I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!
Regards,
Steve
Or you can encourage your wife to drive the roadster herself. I've read a number of posts and threads from guys who said their wives don't drive the roadster. I can only image the host of talks from husbands about needing to be careful, about how demanding the car is, how unforgiving it is. I took a different approach with my partner when I introduced the car to her. I TAUGHT HER HOW TO DRIVE STICK ON A 490HP FFR ROADSTER. She loves it. Loves the look, loves the feel, loves going quickly. Once she got the grasp of clutch/gas/gears, it was "don't be afraid to hit the go pedal". In fact, she spelled me off for a few hours on the recent London Ohio 2,000 kilometre round trip.
Last edited by Dave Howard; 08-07-2017 at 11:46 AM.
Or you can encourage your wife to drive the roadster herself. I've read a number of posts and threads from guys who said their wives don't drive the roadster. I can only image the host of talks from husbands about needing to be careful, about how demanding the car is, how unforgiving it is. I took a different approach with my partner when I introduced the car to her. I TAUGHT HER HOW TO DRIVE STICK ON A 490HP FFR ROADSTER. She loves it. Loves the look, loves the feel, loves going quickly. Once she got the grasp of clutch/gas/gears, it was "don't be afraid to hit the go pedal". In fact, she spelled me off for a few hours on the recent London Ohio 2,000 kilometre round trip.
My wife likely will never drive the MK4. Not because she can't, but because she simply won't want to. She's had big block cars, sports cars, and even drove a Deuce and a Half when she was in the Army. She just never seems to want to drive any of the "toy" cars I've ever owned. We had a 2006 Mercedes SL 500 and she never once wanted to drive it. She was always ready to go for a drive, but always in the passenger seat. I imagine I'll get her behind the wheel at least once at some point, but I don't see her fighting me for the keys.
I showed my wife that infamous You-tube video, of the women who got behind the wheel of her husbands red roadster. She didn't even manage a full block before losing it, and smashing into some parked cars.. A couple similar videos of people losing it at low speeds in their roadsters, has her convinced that she couldn't handle it.
I had to make a quick trip out of town late last week and just returned home, so no updates on my build today. I do, however, have a brand new, healthy granddaughter!
I had to make a quick trip out of town late last week and just returned home, so no updates on my build today. I do, however, have a brand new, healthy granddaughter!
Good enough reason for a road trip. Hopefully everyone is doing fine. Congrats
Today I bled the brakes. First I bench bled the master cylinders by connecting a piece of tubing where the hard lines connect to the MC and put the other end of the tube into the reservoir and pumped the pedal until only fluid was coming from the end into the reservoir. Next I did the rear system starting with the caliper furthest from the reservoir and then the closer caliper. Finally, I did the same for the front system. Next, I checked for pedal feel and it seems good and firm with no fade. I then checked for leaks. I had one that just required a bit of snugging up of the fitting and all is good! My car has working brakes. At this point, I need to sort out the fuel system and have some things to consider thanks to some feedback in the main forum.
I also decided it was time to ditch the frame dolly, so on went the shoes and she's on the ground for the first time!
While I wait for my engine to be completed, I'm kind of at a stand still on the build. Today, however, I spent some time sealing up the gaps and little openings in the foot boxes. For the larger gaps, I made small patches out of scrap aluminum and siliconed them into place. These were needed around the round tube in the lower right-front of the PS foot box and another at the bottom right of the PS foot box where the floor transitions to the higher level. I order three 36" x 60" rolls of Thermo-Tec heat & sound insulation that will be here in a couple of days.
I did end up making some good progress yesterday. After sealing up the cockpit seams, I was looking at what else I could accomplish without my fuel management system in hand. I ended up fitting, drilling, and painting the remaining trunk aluminum. I won't install them until after the fuel system and electrical are in place. I also started reading through the Ron Francis electrical harness manual and ordered some good crimpers, adhesive heat shrink tubing, and an Optima red-top battery. I'll have plenty to do while I'm waiting for the call from BluePrint.
Today, I got all of the RF wiring harnesses installed roughly where they need to be. I found one thing that I did wrong when doing my brakes. I used the space intended to run the harness through for one of my brake reservoir hoses. So, I had to improvise and routed the front harness a bit differently than the manual indicates. I hope there aren't any gotchas in store for me with my new routing.
I also installed my gauges in the dash.
Next will be the gauge wiring and figuring out where to mount my FF wiper motor on the firewall.
You may want you to consider doing a Drop Trunk prior to installing your floor.
The amount of space that you will gain is definitely worth the effort.
For the record; I wish I had gone down that path.
Keep Up The Good Work!
Today, I got all of the RF wiring harnesses installed roughly where they need to be. I found one thing that I did wrong when doing my brakes. I used the space intended to run the harness through for one of my brake reservoir hoses. So, I had to improvise and routed the front harness a bit differently than the manual indicates. I hope there aren't any gotchas in store for me with my new routing.
I prefer to run the front harness across the bottom of the radiator rather than the top. It can get a little congested up at the top with the radiator mounting plus it's completely out of sight. Using the Breeze lower radiator mount is highly recommended, and it's also perfect to tie the harness to for the crossover. But it does take a little more length on the harness to reach the PS doing it that way, and jogging over to the hole you used through the footbox takes up some of that length. Just something you may want to look at.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
You may want you to consider doing a Drop Trunk prior to installing your floor.
The amount of space that you will gain is definitely worth the effort.
For the record; I wish I had gone down that path.
Keep Up The Good Work!
Steve
Thanks, Steve. I considered the drop trunk and decided against it. The most I'll likely ever have in the trunk is a car cover and a duffle bag or a couple of back packs. I thought the more practical trunk mod for my planned use was the drop battery box.
Glad you've got your plan laid out.
I just didn't want you to have a "Would-A, Could-A, Should-A, Wish-I-Would-A" epiphany like I had post trunk floor installation.
Keep Up The Great Work!
Looking good. Don't think you will have any problems. I've seen many others route their brake reservoirs and wiringn harness like you did.
-Steve
Originally Posted by edwardb
I prefer to run the front harness across the bottom of the radiator rather than the top. It can get a little congested up at the top with the radiator mounting plus it's completely out of sight. Using the Breeze lower radiator mount is highly recommended, and it's also perfect to tie the harness to for the crossover. But it does take a little more length on the harness to reach the PS doing it that way, and jogging over to the hole you used through the footbox takes up some of that length. Just something you may want to look at.
Thanks gentlemen. I'll look into the Breeze lower radiator support. I already planned on buying their shroud and a couple of other items, so I see an order in the near future.
Very easy to make a lower rad support yourself for around $10.
I used a section of galvanized pipe that I covered in a rubber hose to act as a cushion. Two conduit clamps, a few machine screws, nylock nuts, and a couple of walking cane end rubbers, to seal the pipe ends. I mounted the lower rad aluminum panel to the underside of the pipe, using sheet metal tapping screws.
FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010
The drop trunk and rear dropped battery box are not mutually exclusive, right? We can do both?
Yes. You can do both.
I did the drop trunk in #8674. We don't try to put a lot of stuff in our trunk either. Chairs when we're going to a show is about the biggest. But I'm amazed how handy the drop trunk box is for small stuff that otherwise would be rolling around in the trunk. It's a nice addition. It would be really easy to make, but I bought the pieces from Russ Thompson. Also didn't cut the cross pieces. Once a hole is cut in the FF provided floor, not much else to do but rivet it in. Hardest part of the installation was putting carpet in it. But that's optional.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Very easy to make a lower rad support yourself for around $10.
I used a section of galvanized pipe that I covered in a rubber hose to act as a cushion. Two conduit clamps, a few machine screws, nylock nuts, and a couple of walking cane end rubbers, to seal the pipe ends. I mounted the lower rad aluminum panel to the underside of the pipe, using sheet metal tapping screws.
Thanks, Bill. I was looking at the kit and was thinking I could create my own, too. I'll be looking at options next time I visit my favorite home improvement store.
Very clean build. Love the shot of the roller with your truck! Doesn't look like any of your neighbors are close enough to bother you with noise complaints...always a plus Sub'd to follow along.
Very clean build. Love the shot of the roller with your truck! Doesn't look like any of your neighbors are close enough to bother you with noise complaints...always a plus Sub'd to follow along.
Thanks. I've warned the neighbors that there will be a bit of noise coming from the shop. They are cool with the car and just want a ride when its done.
I ordered it with my kit from Factory Five. It was shipped direct from Moser Engineering. I swapped out the stock chrome diff cover for the cast one shown in the pictures.
Papa
Back from Post#16, where did you get the cast diff cover? I didn't see it on their website.
Hey Papa, What kind of camera do you use to take your pictures? They all look great!
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022, First start 6/13/2024, Go Kart 8/19/2024 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
I know how I felt when my Motor Mentor (Mr. Boyd Breaux) gave me that call so I know your engine and transmission will be sitting between those 4" frame rails soon.
I don't have a lot to talk about today. I did purchase an engine hoist from Harbor Freight and assembled that. I also have a couple of pictures of some of the progress I've made.
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Originally Posted by japollon
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