Alignment question

[BB767]

I know this is a total new builder question and it will be clearly evident soon but I have not been able to get a look at a finished car to check.

What kind of access is there to the (front) upper control arm for adjusting the alignment once the body and finish metal work is on? Can you access the adjustment sleeves and nuts from the top? Is it very tight or relatively open? Just wondering for future reference. Also trying to decide if I want to invest in one of the alignment machines discussed in other posts, and whether I will even be able to use it without being on a lift. Your experience?

(Sorry, wrong posting area, but I do not know how to move it now.)

[wallace18]

It can be done after body work. I use tile with grease in between 2 on each wheel and an aftermarket alignment tool on the ground. Usually I do it in the go cart stage and recheck after car is done.

[Jazzman]

Don't worry about it. Have it done by a professional. For less than $150 it will be set up perfectly, and you don't have to invest in a whole bunch of tools you will only use extremely rarely. Yes, it is accessible with some difficulty after the body is on. The access is really easy if you do a Tilt front mod like mine!!

(FYI: You can contact David Hodgkins via PM to ask for him to move this thread if you want. He has always been very helpful!)

[scottiec]

If on a lift, it’s very easy. Just did it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

It can be done by working from below or through the wheelwell with them turned but as has been said it's super easy if done prior to body installation. Set ride height, align, finish the build and set it to the same ride height and the alignment will return to the same points.

Jeff

[Joee]

Another vote for have a shop do it. Find a shop with a Hunter system.

[BB767]

OK, thanks all.

[Bob Cowan]

By turning the wheel, you can reach in there and make adjustments.

I prefer to do this job myself. The tools are not that expensive, and the job is not that difficult to do. It cost about the same amount of money to buy the tools as it does to have the alignment done once. Less if you have IRS. Then you can make changes as you drive the car and see what works. Plus, you can get an alignment done on a Sunday.

[edwardb]

Put me in the DIY camp as well. Bought the necessary tools and I can set and/or check the alignment whenever I want. I figured if I could learn to build a car, even learn to build an engine, I could probably learn how to do my own alignment. I actually find it kind of enjoyable getting it dialed in just right. If you have a shop near you that has the know how, great. Especially if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. There are a couple around here, but not particularly close. Most of the local tire stores and such I wouldn't trust. They're fine for DD's where they can find the car in the computer and follow instructions. But not interested in them messing with specialty builds, around my paint, etc. As already stated a few times, certainly easier to do with the body off. But not all that hard to do with the body on. I get mine dialed in as best I can with the body off. Then after final assembly, check again and tweak if needed. Another advantage of DIY. Lift not required.

[Joecobr]

Absolutely love doing stuff like this myself. That's why I am building the car in the first place. Paul, what are the basic tools necessary?

[NAZ]

I'm in the DIY camp more because on a race car you are always adjusting these settings but also because I know I can do a better job than some of the shops around here. I've taken my vehicles to shops and watched mechanics fumble along and can't get it right. Even jumped in and gave directions once when a guy had no clue how to do caster & camber and in which order. He was going to set the toe and send me on my way when I called BS on that.

As a Ford tech I did alignments on a large cumbersome and expensive alignment rack. The tools I use at home and at the track are way less expensive and do just as good a job. The tools are basic and you can get by without the expensive turn plates. I use a Rebco bubble style caster / camber gauge I've had for maybe 40-years (old school style) which works great. You can pick up one for somewhere around $150 or if you prefer a battery operated digital gauge they will be more expensive. Some think the digital is more accurate but I'm not one of them. The bubble style works off gravity and you will never have to worry about dead batteries. However, there are some cheaper options than the style I use and those I don't trust.

You can use two floor tiles for turn plates or some folks use plastic trash bags for turn plates. Your trying to make it easy to turn the wheels without binding but without turn plates you have to have some way of determining the angle you're turning the wheels. I fabricated turn tabs on my hot rod.
20-deg Tabs.JPG

Rebco Camber_Caster.JPG

[edwardb]

Absolutely love doing stuff like this myself. That's why I am building the car in the first place. Paul, what are the basic tools necessary?

There are lots of options. Caster, camber and toe are the three things you need to be able to measure. I bought an SPC Fastrax 91000 caster/camber gauge several years ago and have used it a lot. They have 91030 wheel lip adapters that are needed for FF wheels. I had to mod mine slightly to fit the new 18-inch wheels. But I see they have a newer model 91010 for 17-22 inch wheels. Might be something to consider. I tried their 91100 toe adapter kit, but didn't find the results very reliable. I have much better luck with toe plates. Heidts TA-003 are the ones I bought. I use a Bosch GPL3T laser level instead of the strings many use for home alignment. Strictly optional, but I like that approach better, plus it's a really nice tool I use for lots of things. You can buy turn plates (necessary for setting caster) but then it starts getting even more expensive. I use a couple trash bags under the front tires and it works really well. Like everything, there are lots of other choices and tools out there. Digital has come a long ways since I bought my caster/camber gauge. If I were buying today, I'd look seriously at Longacre. Google and YouTube home alignment and you'll find lots of information. Good luck!

[Dave Howard]

I'm all for doing as much work myself. When it came to alignment I decided to pay a couple of dollars and have a pro do the alignment. It's just too important to get it right. Besides, I didn't have the proper tools and the cost to buy them would have exceeded to cost of the alignment at the shop.

[Mark Eaton]

The final issue with these roasters is that you will always be tinkering with them. You can’t get away from that, nor do you want to. Even if you pay a professional to do the alignment with laser accuracy, it will need to be redone in a interval of time whether that is weeks or months. I have owned a lot of new vehicles and I’m convinced they go out of alignment within a few months. And, not to be disparaging to the techs whom do a good job of setting the alignment , i’m not sure I can’t do just as good a job as long as I apply myself and use quality equipment. Further, The more you check and tweak your alignment the better you get at it and the more independent you will become. You may even find that a setting deviating from FFR suggested settings may work better for your vehicle. The question is, what is the best currently available equipment…

[Bob Cowan]

Fastrax gauges are kinda the home shop standard. They are easy to use, accurate, and repeatable. Make sure you get the toe bars, too.

[BB767]

Finally hearing more from the do it yourself side. I am more in agreement with you. One big pothole that you can't miss and that expensive alignment is gone (or at least suspect). I would rather be able to check and tweak it myself if possible. Thanks for specifics on the equipment, I'll check them all out.

[Mark Eaton]

BB767,

Check this alignment package out. I went ahead and ordered it. I just need to find some good turn plates.

http://www.soloperformance.com/Longa...it_p_1141.html

Mark

[tonywy]

While we are on this topic I have a question. I just redid my front end including Breeze lower control arm bushing sleeves that work perfect. I have a manual steering car and putting billboards on. What kind of alignment setting should I use particularly castor. My thought is to run more castor than 3 degrees with bias ply to help wandering issues with these tires.

[BB767]

BB767,

Check this alignment package out. I went ahead and ordered it. I just need to find some good turn plates.

http://www.soloperformance.com/Longa...it_p_1141.html

Mark

Hey Mark,

Let me know what you think of this outfit after you have used it will you please? How is the quality? Is it easy to use? Does it easily fit the FFR wheels? What else did you need to buy, etc.? PM if you wish.

Thanks, Brien

[Mark Eaton]

Hey Mark,

Let me know what you think of this outfit after you have used it will you please? How is the quality? Is it easy to use? What else did you need to buy, etc.? PM if you wish.

Thanks, Brien

You got it

[Jeff Kleiner]

While we are on this topic I have a question. I just redid my front end including Breeze lower control arm bushing sleeves that work perfect. I have a manual steering car and putting billboards on. What kind of alignment setting should I use particularly castor. My thought is to run more castor than 3 degrees with bias ply to help wandering issues with these tires.

More caster would be great if you have the arms to steer it.

Jeff