Boss 427 Build

[Boydster]

Congrats on the 1st start! I'm hoping to be there before Christmas if I can figure out the EFI wiring and if I didn't make any silly mistakes along the way.

Dave

Thanks Dave. You get pretty nervous on that first turn of the key...

[Boydster]

Hey Guys. Been working on a few small things, trying to wrap up some of the details before i move on to big items. Had a leaking lower radiator hose at the radiator, replaced a 3/4" heater hose from Auto Zone that had a full length disbond in the hose. Cut that tab off the back of the frame and patched it. Finished drilling my Breeze stainless roll bars and bolting them in.

One thing I've put off because I didnt know how I was going to do it is the parking brake. Now this should have been done a long time ago.

I powdercoated and put together the F5 parking brake as supplied in the complete kit. I wasnt crazy about the location, and with it installed, it was too tight on the trans tunnel. The cables wouldn't pull evenly and didnt really match up with the Wilwood calipers quite right. I decided to go with the Lokar EHB-7000F Universal Floor mount handle and the Wilwood 330-1093 Universal E-brake Cables for CPB calipers. The Wilwood cables include a cable equalizer for 2 cables, an adjustable cable housing mount and several tight fitting cushioned Adel clamps.





I removed the 4 angles from the Lokar and the Lokar clevis. Installed the Wilwood equalizer and installed the handle as far aft as I could on the RH side of the trans tunnel. I quickly saw that was a mistake, as there was nowhere to mount the Wilwood cable housing mount. So I moved it forward, using the original front bolt hole as the aft. I mounted it with some 3/8" countersink bolts I had around and some .250 steel spacers to give the clevis room from the frame.



Since everything in there is at an angle, it became a challenge to mount the cable housing mount. Needed to keep it pretty straight with the handle. I decided to pickup the lower bolt mount through one of the diagonal supports and the upper would just mount to the aluminum using a 1" steel spacer. I may go back and install a thick mounting plate that will bolt to the diagonal that will give more support to the cable mount.



Attached the Wilwood cables to the brakes, easy peasy, ran them around over the axle to the cable mount. Clamped in a few places. Pulled out the inner cables and cut the housings using a pair of heavy cable cutters. No issues. Installed the inner cables, ran everything up to the handle and locked em down. Cut the cables with a dremel cutoff wheel and duct taped the ends.



Used the adjustable equalizer to tighten up the cables quite easily. First pull, brakes are locked tight at the 3rd click. Easy to pull when seated and doesnt look too bad.

Also cut off the original bracket and patched the trans tunnel hole.




I know I may have an issue with leather boots and trim rings when I finish off the trans cover, but I have something of a plan for that that I hope will look pretty cool.

OK, on to more little stuff...

[MPTech]

I mounted mine the same way, on top of the tunnel (I did install another 3/4" tube on the other side of the brake for better support when pulling up on the e-brake, tying it into the cross-braces). I also installed a pulley-system to improve the leverage. After adjusting the balance and testing the holding power (while on jack-stands) it will hold it on a steep driveway.

[Boydster]

Excellent, MPT. Nice to know it'll work. I read a lot about needing a leverage system, but some said with the Wilwoods, it isnt really needed. I'll see how this works over time.

[Boydster]

Lost my little girl today due to T-Cell Lymphoma. 6 years old and a friend to every single human she met. Its been just me and her for the last 4 years, so I will miss her badly. I regret that I'll never get to take her for a ride in the roadster. RIP, my Trinket...

[wareaglescott]

Very sorry for the loss of your puppy. Great picture. She looks like a sweet girl.

[Yama-Bro]

Sorry for your loss, Boydster.

[cgundermann]

Lost my little girl today due to T-Cell Lymphoma. 6 years old and a friend to every single human she met. Its been just me and her for the last 4 years, so I will miss her badly. I regret that I'll never get to take her for a ride in the roadster. RIP, my Trinket...

Very very sorry for your loss! My Pinschers are with me in the garage everyday and I would be particularly lost without my girl - Storm. My heart goes out to you...

Chris

[boat737]

Lost my little girl today due to T-Cell Lymphoma. 6 years old and a friend to every single human she met. Its been just me and her for the last 4 years, so I will miss her badly. I regret that I'll never get to take her for a ride in the roadster. RIP, my Trinket...

I've been trying to come up with the appropriate words all morning. Here goes, my 2 cents...

On this day of giving thanks, be thankful and grateful for all the smiles and joy that big slobbery kissing face gave you for those 6 years. You'll cry and be heart broken, and that's OK. For the few weeks or months of grief, you had years of happiness that you can be thankful for. You'll never forget the love of your best friend. And one day (I hope) you'll get another best friend, not as a replacement, but an addition to your Trinket. I feel your grief. But I say every day, there is nothing better than a dog, and there are so many out there needing a good forever home, and someone to give their unconditional love to. All the best to you.

[KDubU]

I've been trying to come up with the appropriate words all morning. Here goes, my 2 cents...

On this day of giving thanks, be thankful and grateful for all the smiles and joy that big slobbery kissing face gave you for those 6 years. You'll cry and be heart broken, and that's OK. For the few weeks or months of grief, you had years of happiness that you can be thankful for. You'll never forget the love of your best friend. And one day (I hope) you'll get another best friend, not as a replacement, but an addition to your Trinket. I feel your grief. But I say every day, there is nothing better than a dog, and there are so many out there needing a good forever home, and someone to give their unconditional love to. All the best to you.

Don't think it can be written any better. I am very sorry for the loss of your pup. Hang in there and know she is smiling down on you for the love you gave her.

[Boydster]

Thank you, everybody, for your thoughts and support. Its been a rough few days.

I've been trying to come up with the appropriate words all morning. Here goes, my 2 cents...

On this day of giving thanks, be thankful and grateful for all the smiles and joy that big slobbery kissing face gave you for those 6 years. You'll cry and be heart broken, and that's OK. For the few weeks or months of grief, you had years of happiness that you can be thankful for. You'll never forget the love of your best friend. And one day (I hope) you'll get another best friend, not as a replacement, but an addition to your Trinket. I feel your grief. But I say every day, there is nothing better than a dog, and there are so many out there needing a good forever home, and someone to give their unconditional love to. All the best to you.

Thats one of the most beautiful things I've ever read, Boat. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to write this for me. Somebody else that really gets it.

Since it's been just me and Trinket for a few years, my house just isnt the same without a dog in it. So starting Saturday, I'll be fostering a dog that really needs to get out of the shelter environment. She doesnt do well with other dogs and that place is driving her crazy. Her name is Scarlett Sophie and shes from the SPCA of AA Co in Annapolis, MD, where I volunteer.

Thank you for letting me share the loss of my best friend on my build thread without harsh response. I know it doesnt really belong here, but what goes better together than dogs and cars.... cats and ferns? Anyways, I may post 1 more pic when I get Scarlett Sophie, but then it will be back to building the Boss. Thank you.

[boat737]

Thats one of the most beautiful things I've ever read, Boat. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to write this for me. Somebody else that really gets it.

Believe me, my eyes were watering up seeing that picture, and writing those words. I've been there, and got through it. So will you. I wish you many slobbery kisses with Scarlett Sophie. Bless you for helping out another one of God's creatures. (I agree about your build thread, but you know, some times there are just things that are too important, and take precedent, over the "just the stuff" in our lives. Threads and cars, in the end, are just stuff.)

[Boydster]

Thank you, friend.

[boat737]

I regret that I'll never get to take her for a ride in the roadster. RIP, my Trinket...

One more note, and I'll shut my trap. I've been thinking about this one too. Know that when you drive the roadster now, she'll be with you EVERY time. No regrets.

[Boydster]

One more note, and I'll shut my trap. I've been thinking about this one too. Know that when you drive the roadster now, she'll be with you EVERY time. No regrets.

Absolutely. I had already bought her a pair of Doggles. IDK, there may be some type of ref to her when I finish the car...

[boat737]

Absolutely. I had already bought her a pair of Doggles. IDK, there may be some type of ref to her when I finish the car...

Perfect. The Cobra plaque with her name? Dog tag on the plaque or dash? License Plate? Go for it.

[Boydster]

Last post about dogs, guys.

Yesterday I welcomed this girl into my home. I am fostering her for adoption from the AACo SPCA in Annapolis, MD.

Her name is Scarlett Sophie and while we dont quite know what she is, I've already started a doggie DNA to find out. She is a sweet 4 year old that has not been given many chances... shes been returned to the shelter 3 times due to lifestyle changes, moving and "not enough time". She's pretty aggressive to other dogs, and has a strong prey drive, but she's sweet, crates easily, is quiet and loves to play with me in the yard.

Anyways, just wanted to wrap up this saga of me loosing my best friend and how I'm learning to cope. Scarlett hasnt been introduced to the Boss 427 yet, but if she's still here by spring, looks like those Doggles will get some use yet.





Thanks for being patient.

[Boydster]

My last update was almost 2 months ago. Lots of life stuff going on (new dog is doing great!), ultra-busy time at work, crashed computer, colder-than-frozen-snot weather... haven't been doing very much on the roadster.
I have a kero heater in the garage, but even after 2 hours in this recent cold, it only gets up to about 22F. I've worked outside my whole life, but even I can only stand that for so long.

Got a new mobo and cpu setup working, stuck in a nice new SSD while I was at it, so its time to upload some pics and update this thread.

Trunk carpet! I chose some grey stuff, same kind of thing used on speaker boxes. Easy to clean, hides a little dirt, goes with the grey theme of the car. I knew there was a reason I dont do carpet. I really did not do a very good job of it with big, uneven holes and the edges are not right to the corners. But it looks ok from 5 feet back... maybe I can do some trim work with something.





Note that I made my upper fuel tank access much bigger than factory. I'm all about ease of maintenance later on, being a lifetime airplane guy, and I like room when I have to swing wrenches. If i have to take the fuel pump out, I have plenty of room to get to the fuel lines. The Pro-M pickup can be pretty particular in how it comes out. In the 2nd pic, you can also kind of see the LED strip light I ran across the bottom of the trunk hoop. The light switch is over on the left.

Next was to get a coolant overflow tank installed. I've heard a lot of stories about the F5 unit being too small for anything larger than a 302, and this is a punched out 351. I chose the Canton 80-201 from Summit. Fits right in that space between the Breeze battery box and the power steering. But it had to be mounted to the X-frame, and that took a little thought.

I ended up using 3 padded Adel clamps to wrap around the X-frame and mount a flat aluminum plate. The the Canton tank would mount to that plate with some short spacers to clear the hardware. Worked pretty good when I was done, avoided drilling more holes in structure and was able to square it all up in there with the clamps.





Havent run the engine with this yet, but will soon to bleed and adjust the coolant level.

[Boydster]

Needed to finish up my seat heaters in the Kirkey highbacks. I drilled a 1" hole in the inside corner of the seats and used some nice grommets I got from McMaster Carr for the 1/8" thick aluminum (still have about 12 of these grommets to give away, so if you have Kirkeys with heaters... let me know!). Followed Scotts idea and clamped the seat heat wiring and relays to the back of the seat... I wont be storing anything back there and you cant see it once the seat is in.





You can see the Kirkey adjustable seat mounts I'm using for install.

I put the switches in the trans cover, but may have put them too far back... will have to check that later. You can see them in the pic below. Drilled another hole large enough for the connector down low in the trans tunnel sidewall for the switch to connect to the wiring harness at the seat. The power wiring runs forward under the trans cover and up behind the switch panel.

So with the seats finished and wired up, I had to get my RCI Platinum seatbelts installed. This is just the preliminary install and they have since been adjusted and trimmed. I installed a grade 8 eyebolt in the floor following RCI's tips for the sub belt. These come as either 5 or 6 point belts. Using them as 5's, I simply cut off the extra strap. I used my soldering iron with a weird little flat tip to melt the ends.

You might also notice I cut the Kirkey labels off the seats. I later did the same thing to the RCI labels on the belts. You can kind of see where these things were, but only if you really look for it. I saw another local builder did this with his seats and I liked it. No need advertising for someone thats not paying me, and I'm not racing for contingency money.

[Boydster]

Made the call to Whitby's where I'm having the bodywork and paint done. Got to chat with a guy named Jeff who was really nice and appreciative that I was bringing this work to him.

A quick note about this: I'm a pretty good mechanic. But I also know my limitations and I know where I have patience and where I dont. I love building this car, but I know that I do not have the knowledge, skill or patience to do bodywork. I know that I wont enjoy it, will get in a rush, shortcut it and it will look like crap. Especially after studying threads by the 2 Jeffs, Mr. Robinson and the myriad other threads on the subject. I budgeted the cash to have this done by a pro from the start. I chose Whitby's because of what I've seen come out of their shop and they are only 250 miles from me.

Guess I feel guilty cuz it is a home-built, but a man has to know his limitations.

And I want this car to look good.

So I'm taking all the fiberglass and the scoop down to Greensboro next week. Figured I had a few things to fit up before taking it down there, so put aside the Go-Kart and tried to get some work done outside.

First up was the headlights, which I could also work on inside. I'm installing Watson's LED lights in the F5 buckets. Of course I ref'd to Edwardb's build where he used these same lights.
One thing is the lights have been updated. They now use a Hella reflector / lens assembly and have made the plug / driver / led assembly all one piece. This part tossed me for a loop because I was going to have to drill a hole in the bucket big enough for the driver or the LED to fit through. Watson's says you can mount the driver inside the bucket, but I dont really see the room for it and there's no space flat enough.



I thought about trying to unsolder or otherwise unattach the wires inside the LED driver box. Then I could run the wires through the bucket and reattach. Opening up the driver box I found they are very well sealed up and there's no chance of doing it that way. Not too worried about water intrusion here.



My answer was to cut a slit in the bucket from the front edge back to where I wanted the cord to go through. At that point, I drilled a hole only large enough for the grommet to hold / protect the cable between the driver and the LED. I can slide the cable back through the slit and pop in the grommet. Once the bucket is screwed into place, that holds the front of the slit together. I may use some plastic weld or maybe some weather proof rubber tape to seal up the slit, but I put both the slit and the hole on the bottom of the bucket, so I dont think anything will go in that way. I didnt use the factory supplied hole because thats towards the top of the bucket, and the cord from the LED comes out of the bottom.



OK, next step was fitting the new reflector / lens assembly to the F5 bucket. Everything was going very well, right along with the F5 Assembly manual. Next morning I got up and found 3 broken clips sitting on the table. I really didnt clamp down on them, realizing they weren't of the highest quality.



So of course something else had to be done.
After posting on the forum about these clips, I believe it was Mr Everson suggested silicone. Hmmm... with the F5 setup, you're using a sealed lamp unit that needs to be replaced if it quits working. With this setup, you only replace the lamp (LED unit) and the reflector / lens stays in place. Only reason to ever replace the lens is if it gets broken, and while possible, how often do we really see that. Eureka.

I used some all weather, all temp silicone adhesive. After insuring the lamp was correctly oriented in the adjustment ring, I glued that baby together. I made some .040 aluminum pieces and used #6 screws & nuts to bolt in where the broken clips an self tapping screws went. This not only helped hold it together while it cured, but works well as a backup should the lens ever come loose. I dont really think it will... this thing is solid.



One downside to this is you dont have the clips to properly orient the lens. Be very careful doing it this way. If you're off by even a bit, the headlight will be crooked on the car.

Dont have a pic, but once cured it all went together very nicely. I havent mounted the driver yet, but will most likely use the same kind of idea as Edwardb... to mount it on a plate on the back of the bucket. Then the 3 prong plug will go right into the harness.

[Boydster]

I dont know exactly what Whitby's is doing to prep the car before paint, whether its up to me or them to be sure lights and bolt-ons will fit. I decide to spend some time and prefit everything I can.

Used a 3/4" sanding drum where needed to open up the holes for the front markers, tail lights and the headlights. Found out it uses self tapping screws to mount the headlights. Um, not me. I drilled the mount holes through and mounted using #8 stainless screws, washers and locknuts. Its not that difficult to get to the back from under the car should they need to come out later on.

Every hole thats predrilled on the car so far has needed to be opened up. Not too big of a deal, but this non-body working dude had to be real careful as to what I was doing. Got em all in!


No orings... yet





Sorry about the quality of the pics... lots of fog that day and the humidity was playing hell with the camera.

Also mounted the gas cap, again with stainless countersunk screws, washers and nuts. This one took no trimming, just drilling for the screws.



Last thing was to install the ********** side grills, vents, slats, whatever ya call em. I had read about the difference in how the holes are cut vs the angle of the slats, so took this one slow because if I screw it up, it's gonna cost money.

Again used Edwardb's idea of sticks to hold them in place (thanks for all the help, man. You have no idea....) while I was working it. Made a pretty good plan...



...and went at it with the 3/4" sanding drum. Cleaned the edges up a bit with some sandpaper and a flat file and I think it looks pretty good. Of course the edges need to be rounded over but I'll mention that to the pros. Maybe I do have a future as a body man....



That radius of the inside corners exactly fits the 3/4" drum. I think it looks pretty good. Not concerned with matching originality, obviously.

I'll be epoxying in some 10-32 SS studs (thanks to guess who...) to mount these, but its too cold to do here outdoors and I dont have a place to work on this inside that's heated. Will have to do that part after it comes back from paint and fitting.

Last thing I've done is remove the body from the buck and break the buck down to trailer size (the buck was a tall one, designed to roll in over the go-kart). I'm borrowing a 20x8 enclosed trailer from a buddy that moves Classic Mustangs, from hulks to completed cars, all over the East Coast. I'll mount the buck to the floor then use a few nice straps to just hold the body in place. On vacation next week, so will get this all done, get it dropped off and get back to work on the Go-Kart. Punch list is getting shorter... next up is to set ride height and work on alignment.

[Boydster]

[wareaglescott]

I don't want to speak for Whitby so check with them but I will tell you how it worked for me. Good idea pre-mounting the lights and stuff. If you send the body down with those items attached they are going to have to remove it all to do the body work and they will be charging you their hourly shop rate to remove and reinstall that stuff. I think it would be your best bet to take it back off and keep those parts at home until you get it back and do the final install.
My apologies if you already know that or have those details worked out with them.
What are they telling you for timeline on getting the body and paint done?

[Boydster]

I don't want to speak for Whitby so check with them but I will tell you how it worked for me. Good idea pre-mounting the lights and stuff. If you send the body down with those items attached they are going to have to remove it all to do the body work and they will be charging you their hourly shop rate to remove and reinstall that stuff. I think it would be your best bet to take it back off and keep those parts at home until you get it back and do the final install.
My apologies if you already know that or have those details worked out with them.
What are they telling you for timeline on getting the body and paint done?

Ah, my apologies for not being complete in my writeup... I have removed , rewrapped, boxed up and shelved all the stuff I installed. I will final install them when I bring it all back. No apologies needed.

Bodywork, paint, mount to the go-kart (which I will take down later)... 6-8 months. Whew. Longer than I thought, should have done all this 3-4 months ago. But gives me plenty of time to finish up the go-kart and maybe work out some kinks. I'm also going to have them install the windshield, drill my wiper and defroster holes, few other details. Jeff offered to finish the car, but I declined. Just letting them do some things I'm not comfortable with or would have a hard time doing by myself.

[wareaglescott]

Sounds good. I had them install the body on the go cart and put the windshield on just because I did not want to mess with the windshield. They will do an amazing job. I went there numerous times and was very pleased with the work and there are a great bunch of guys working there. Glad to see they are telling you 6-8 months. I had heard their time line had gotten considerably longer. Seems the FFR hobby is booming with this strong economy and they had gotten a bunch of work.

[boat737]

Made the call to Whitby's where I'm having the bodywork and paint done. Got to chat with a guy named Jeff who was really nice and appreciative that I was bringing this work to him.

A quick note about this: I'm a pretty good mechanic. But I also know my limitations and I know where I have patience and where I dont. I love building this car, but I know that I do not have the knowledge, skill or patience to do bodywork. I know that I wont enjoy it, will get in a rush, shortcut it and it will look like crap. Especially after studying threads by the 2 Jeffs, Mr. Robinson and the myriad other threads on the subject. I budgeted the cash to have this done by a pro from the start. I chose Whitby's because of what I've seen come out of their shop and they are only 250 miles from me.

Guess I feel guilty cuz it is a home-built, but a man has to know his limitations.

And I want this car to look good.

So I'm taking all the fiberglass and the scoop down to Greensboro next week. Figured I had a few things to fit up before taking it down there, so put aside the Go-Kart and tried to get some work done outside.

First up was the headlights, which I could also work on inside. I'm installing Watson's LED lights in the F5 buckets. Of course I ref'd to Edwardb's build where he used these same lights.
One thing is the lights have been updated. They now use a Hella reflector / lens assembly and have made the plug / driver / led assembly all one piece. This part tossed me for a loop because I was going to have to drill a hole in the bucket big enough for the driver or the LED to fit through. Watson's says you can mount the driver inside the bucket, but I dont really see the room for it and there's no space flat enough.

I thought about trying to unsolder or otherwise unattach the wires inside the LED driver box. Then I could run the wires through the bucket and reattach. Opening up the driver box I found they are very well sealed up and there's no chance of doing it that way. Not too worried about water intrusion here.

My answer was to cut a slit in the bucket from the front edge back to where I wanted the cord to go through. At that point, I drilled a hole only large enough for the grommet to hold / protect the cable between the driver and the LED. I can slide the cable back through the slit and pop in the grommet. Once the bucket is screwed into place, that holds the front of the slit together. I may use some plastic weld or maybe some weather proof rubber tape to seal up the slit, but I put both the slit and the hole on the bottom of the bucket, so I dont think anything will go in that way. I didnt use the factory supplied hole because thats towards the top of the bucket, and the cord from the LED comes out of the bottom.

OK, next step was fitting the new reflector / lens assembly to the F5 bucket. Everything was going very well, right along with the F5 Assembly manual. Next morning I got up and found 3 broken clips sitting on the table. I really didnt clamp down on them, realizing they weren't of the highest quality.

So of course something else had to be done.
After posting on the forum about these clips, I believe it was Mr Everson suggested silicone. Hmmm... with the F5 setup, you're using a sealed lamp unit that needs to be replaced if it quits working. With this setup, you only replace the lamp (LED unit) and the reflector / lens stays in place. Only reason to ever replace the lens is if it gets broken, and while possible, how often do we really see that. Eureka.

I used some all weather, all temp silicone adhesive. After insuring the lamp was correctly oriented in the adjustment ring, I glued that baby together. I made some .040 aluminum pieces and used #6 screws & nuts to bolt in where the broken clips an self tapping screws went. This not only helped hold it together while it cured, but works well as a backup should the lens ever come loose. I dont really think it will... this thing is solid.

One downside to this is you dont have the clips to properly orient the lens. Be very careful doing it this way. If you're off by even a bit, the headlight will be crooked on the car.

Dont have a pic, but once cured it all went together very nicely. I havent mounted the driver yet, but will most likely use the same kind of idea as Edwardb... to mount it on a plate on the back of the bucket. Then the 3 prong plug will go right into the harness.

Hey Boyd. I too am a student at the EdwardB university of car building. Here's my fix for the one piece pigtail on the headlights drivers.

I cut a rectangular hole in the back just big enough for the little box to fit through. It get's covered up with the two aluminum plates that sandwich together on the back of the bucket. The square-ish plate is tapped and threaded to mount the box. I think I also threaded the round plate for the countersunk screws from the outside. Can't remember. If not, nyloc nuts on the inside.

It's probably too late for you, but I drilled and tapped the holes into the body for headlight bucket. Good and solid, but I'll put nyloc's on the backside during the final assembly after paint.

Pet the dog.

[boat737]

Last thing was to install the ********** side grills, vents, slats, whatever ya call em. I had read about the difference in how the holes are cut vs the angle of the slats, so took this one slow because if I screw it up, it's gonna cost money.

Again used Edwardb's idea of sticks to hold them in place (thanks for all the help, man. You have no idea....) while I was working it. Made a pretty good plan...



...and went at it with the 3/4" sanding drum. Cleaned the edges up a bit with some sandpaper and a flat file and I think it looks pretty good. Of course the edges need to be rounded over but I'll mention that to the pros. Maybe I do have a future as a body man....



That radius of the inside corners exactly fits the 3/4" drum. I think it looks pretty good. Not concerned with matching originality, obviously.

I'll be epoxying in some 10-32 SS studs (thanks to guess who...) to mount these, but its too cold to do here outdoors and I dont have a place to work on this inside that's heated. Will have to do that part after it comes back from paint and fitting.

Last thing I've done is remove the body from the buck and break the buck down to trailer size (the buck was a tall one, designed to roll in over the go-kart). I'm borrowing a 20x8 enclosed trailer from a buddy that moves Classic Mustangs, from hulks to completed cars, all over the East Coast. I'll mount the buck to the floor then use a few nice straps to just hold the body in place. On vacation next week, so will get this all done, get it dropped off and get back to work on the Go-Kart. Punch list is getting shorter... next up is to set ride height and work on alignment.

And from the EdwardB "How to" list, I went a step further for my side grill mounting studs. After HSRF-ing them in, I added a strip of fiberglass cloth just in case they ever let loose. BTW, added some studs around all the tail lights, front marker lights, and headlights the same way to have something to attach the wires to.

I know, Type-A OCD stuff. Just me.

Pet the dog.

[Boydster]

Hey Boyd. I too am a student at the EdwardB university of car building. Here's my fix for the one piece pigtail on the headlights drivers.

I cut a rectangular hole in the back just big enough for the little box to fit through. It get's covered up with the two aluminum plates that sandwich together on the back of the bucket. The square-ish plate is tapped and threaded to mount the box. I think I also threaded the round plate for the countersunk screws from the outside. Can't remember. If not, nyloc nuts on the inside.

It's probably too late for you, but I drilled and tapped the holes into the body for headlight bucket. Good and solid, but I'll put nyloc's on the backside during the final assembly after paint.

Pet the dog.

Thanks. I was going to let ya know... I Foster Failed on her. Yep... I'm keeping her.

[Boydster]

Hey Boyd. I too am a student at the EdwardB university of car building. Here's my fix for the one piece pigtail on the headlights drivers.

I cut a rectangular hole in the back just big enough for the little box to fit through. It get's covered up with the two aluminum plates that sandwich together on the back of the bucket. The square-ish plate is tapped and threaded to mount the box. I think I also threaded the round plate for the countersunk screws from the outside. Can't remember. If not, nyloc nuts on the inside.

It's probably too late for you, but I drilled and tapped the holes into the body for headlight bucket. Good and solid, but I'll put nyloc's on the backside during the final assembly after paint.

Pet the dog.

Nice, neat job. I like it. Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I had to have something better than self tappers in there...

[Boydster]

And from the EdwardB "How to" list, I went a step further for my side grill mounting studs. After HSRF-ing them in, I added a strip of fiberglass cloth just in case they ever let loose. BTW, added some studs around all the tail lights, front marker lights, and headlights the same way to have something to attach the wires to.

I know, Type-A OCD stuff. Just me.

Pet the dog.

Nice details! Thanks for the ideas.

[boat737]

Thanks. I was going to let ya know... I Foster Failed on her. Yep... I'm keeping her.

Awesome. Good for you... and her.

[Boydster]

Running through my punch list, so I'm kind of all over the place. Put together my hood hinges on the coffee table while watching Dunkirk. One of the rare times I had to put down the Roadster Parts.
Anyways, as others have posted before, I didn't care for the wave washers supplied for the hood hinges. It just leaves too much slop and sideways movement in the hinge arms. So I tried it without, and found that the nut then bottoms on the bolt shoulder, again leaving a bunch of slop. Decided to add washers as needed under the head of each bolt to allow the nut to lock down on the washer, instead of on the bolt. This makes the assembly nice and tight. You then back off the nut about 1/16 turn, allowing nice free movement with no play or slop. Beautiful.

This pic shows the use of the wave washer vs without. It just really even looks better.


...and a pic of the hinges installed.


Headed out tomorrow to take the body, hood, doors and trunk lid to Whitby's. Thanks to my friend Bo for helping me get the body and buck into the trailer.
The buck is screwed to the floor, then I just used some straps barely tightened just enough to hold the body in place. Should be good... if not, its going to the right place to fix it. And that is not a u-Haul blanket... i swear it's not.


As a nice side note, met with the Capital Area Cobra Club Sunday morning for breakfast. Hadn't seen any of them in a while and it was good to do so. 35* out and 3 Cobras showed up... Nice.


Off to Whitby's!

[wareaglescott]

Good idea with the hood hinges. I notice that slopp when I close mine because the stripes will be misaligned if I am not careful Might have to make that upgrade as well. Good luck with Whitby. I sent mine on a body buck. Dont know what became of my buck but I sure never saw it again. You probably don't need to leave it there if you want it.

[Boydster]

Good idea with the hood hinges. I notice that slopp when I close mine because the stripes will be misaligned if I am not careful Might have to make that upgrade as well. Good luck with Whitby. I sent mine on a body buck. Dont know what became of my buck but I sure never saw it again. You probably don't need to leave it there if you want it.

Hey Scott, I gotta bring the trailer back empty, and the buck is currently screwed down, so I'm just gonna haul it back with me. My car is the 5th one built on that buck... I'd like to pass it along if I can.

[Boydster]

Made the trip from Glen Burnie, MD to Greensboro, NC yesterday and dropped off all my fiberglass (and plastic scoop!) at Whitby's. Met Jeff and a few of the body and paint guys. Jeff was good enough to really take his time with me, showed me all around and spoke in depth with me about what I wanted. I felt pretty good by the time I left that they were going to take good care of my car and that I would like what I get back.

Hauling a 20x8' enclosed empty trailer around was not much fun... the tractor trailers out there really liked to blow that thing around, and yes, it did want to pull on the F-150 a few times. But I did make it down and back in 1 day... 14 hours and 670 miles, got about 10mpg.

Looking in and around Whitby's was pretty impressive. They have 27 cars there right now, several ready to deliver and more coming in. But Jeff lets everyone know that he's not going to be rushed on your car... thats why I wont see it for another 6 months. Anyways... I'll be posting up a body buck for free in the Baltimore Washington area if anyone is interested... its ready for its 6th build!


No, my truck does not have a huge pole in the middle of it...

The one pic I took at Whitby's... There's 8 roadsters and a 33 in the center in this pic, as well as 3 more roadsters off to the left. Is your car in here? I think I saw one or two that I've seen on the forum before....

Thats #9042 in the lower right corner.

[wareaglescott]

Glad you got it dropped if. Jeff really is good people. His lead painter Brooks is a great guy also. Pretty crazy sting how many cars they have in the process!

[JoeAIII]

By the way, some have asked if the leds for the turn signals and high beam are going to be obnoxious being so bright and right in front of my face. I'm using some lower intensity leds from Ron Francis and in my power checks, they appear perfect. Just right to get my attention but not blind me.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BG-35

Also, the black button on the dash is my horn button. It has a blue LED ring that I wired so it comes on with the headlights. That one is very bright and definitely obnoxious. I'll either have to disconnect the LED light or install a resistor.
I also answered something i've been asking myself about the switch panel. Nothing is illuminated on that panel, and in the shop with the lights off and doors closed, you cant see anything. So I'm considering some tag type bolt lights or perhaps a shrouded LED of some type on the trans tunnel cover to gently illuminate the panel.

Are the trim rings on those LEDs removable or are they glued in in some way? I like the idea of the dim lights but would like to refinish the trim

[Boydster]

Are the trim rings on those LEDs removable or are they glued in in some way? I like the idea of the dim lights but would like to refinish the trim

If I remember correctly, the trim ring is part of the led light housing.

[Boydster]

Well, its been a while, hasnt it. Last year we had all those nice warm days in Feb and March when 9042 was delivered and I got so much done. This year, not so much. My garage, although kinda updated, was built in the 50's and is kinda drafty. The walls are done well, but the ceiling is still open to the attic and its tough working out there even with the kero heater going. So I havent done much in the last 6 weeks.

I'm on vacation (staycation) this week, and the weather is getting better, so I'm hoping to get the Boss to the point of a real go-cart.
While it was cold, I worked on polishing the Breeze rollbars (whew) as most quotes I've gotten to have it done were about $500. I also did the well known mods to the door latches (carriage bolt, filing the stop, white grease lube and screwing the knob on).

Yesterday I got out and spent about 6 hours in the garage. Went to install my breeze bars and found I had tightened the bolts too much... squeezed the tubes out of round just enough to make it VERY difficult to install and remove. That took a few hours with a vise and files to make them fit again. Got the front light wiring run and mounted (still need some more clamps) and installed Weatherpacks on all 4 corners. The front running lights are mounted on the body mount supports, while I will make some temporary mounts for the rears.

Not much to show, just a few pics of stuff everyone has already seen. All of my lights are LED with electronic flashers, and the rear are wired through a trailer light converter to make all 4 running lights, all 4 brake lights and both on each side are turn signals. Thats why my wiring on the ends is a little different.

Front wiring




Rear wiring




And the result, all being shown on low, or dim:




Also got my leather steering wheel from F5, which has been out of stock for a while. I'll be removing the Breeze quick disconnect from the wood wheel and installing it on the new wheel... I'll post that up this week.

Cool. Back to work.

[Boydster]

Working on squaring up the car and setting ride height. Front: Measuring at the front end of the frame tubes, 4 - 4.25" on each side. Front right shock collar is 2.5" from the top of the threaded outer tube, front left is 3.375". I understood that both shock settings should be the same to evenly load the corners. Both rears are about 5.5", within 1/8" of each other.

Upper arms are installed correctly. Floor is pretty even side to side, although it does angle down towards the driveway. Front wheels are pretty close to set alignment after just playing with the Fasttrax.
Tried measuring from floor to several frame points all over the front end and it's pretty level. Tried to keep bouncing after adjustments, difficult to do... she's sprung pretty stiff.

When jacking under the frame to do shock adjustments, frame raises about 3" before the tire leaves the ground. Dont think anything is binding and all adjustment points are loosened. Has been greased.

Any ideas? Big Problem? No problem, keep going?