40 Watt Garage & #9365

[Fixit]

Let me introduce myself - I'm John D. (Fixit) on here - residing in Frostbite Falls, MN. (actually the Minneapolis 'burbs)
I've placed my order for a Mk4 Complete Kit, using a Coyote, TKO-600, and IRS.

I have been a "lurker" on this Forum since August of '17, gathering information and convincing myself to pull the trigger on this project. I have wanted to build a Cobra replica/tribute since my late teens - it's only taken 35+ years to achieve that goal!

I am in need of another automotive project build. I completed my last project car (Yeah, Yeah,... I know... they're NEVER "done") about 5 years ago, and have been driving the wheels off it on Club cruises, autocross events, road-course track days, and of course on nice weekends to local shows with my sweetie.

By trade I'm an IBEW "Limited Power Technician" - read that Low Voltage guy. I specialize in commercial security, things like CCTV and Card Access systems - so I'm no stranger to complex & bizarre DC control & relay circuits. Hopefully I can return the favor on my build questions with electrical help or suggestions.

[PeteH]

Congrats and welcome. Youll enjoy the challenge of the build. Im in the final paint prep stages on a 289 Bodystyle.

[TexasAviator]

Welcome, I feel you will be right at home here. It would seem that there are many of us with varying backgrounds and technical expertise. I have to say my build has been going on for just a few months but I am nearing the engine start and go cart phase. I believe what I find difficult is not the build but the finishing touches. Plan ahead for paint and body, especially if you are one who gets a build done quickly. By the time that car is ready to drive you will want paint and it will take a while to get into someones schedule.

[Fixit]

The madness has started...
Why wouldn't Mother Nature go off her meds the day a 500lb. IRS assembly needs to get out of my truck and into the shop!

My plan was to use the engine hoist to pick it out of the truck and wheel it into the 40 Watt - but the hoist is in the shed... behind the garage... with a full-season's of snow (plus an extra 6") in my way.

Cleaned the driveway, and carved a path to the shed with Mr. Toro - 7 trips later the hoist is assembled and the IRS is dangling. It's rolled in the shop and tucked behind Blackie for a future day.

RearAxle02.pngRearAxle01.jpg

[wareaglescott]

Welcome aboard. Look forward to following along.
Nw forum rule - If you mention your recently completed project car you must post a picture! Let us check it out.

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats! Yeah, let's see that other vehicle.

[Fixit]

Here is the future Mk4's stable-mate

I'm the 3rd owner, originally a 327/Pglide car, about 65,000 on the clock. I've still got the original 327 & trans (pickled, in storage).
I swapped the powertrain from my Dad's '96 Roadmaster into it, so it's now an EFI LT-1/4L60e combo, 3.08's out back. The LT-1 is bone-stock other than headers, some throttle body & intake work, and a tune.

This car/swap/project convinced me to go Coyote on the Roadster. 23 mpg, starts at 15-below, idles in traffic when it's 95 degs out, and holds it own at the stoplights.
When I did this swap there weren't any "kits" out there. You couldn't reasonably buy a stand-alone ECU or harness, so I modified the '96 Buick one. With the practically "Plug-n-Play" system for the Coyote it'll be a breeze.

JohnDs65LT1.jpgJohnDs65a.jpg

[wareaglescott]

Nice work John!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Agreed! Nice

Jeff

[Garry Bopp]

Down south, your lovely El Camino is called a "Georgia Jaguar"! It's a beauty!

Garry

[Yama-Bro]

Very nice!

[Fixit]

Spent a pleasant 30 minutes on the blower with Mike Forte yesterday... This guy's a stitch! We worked through my requests/quote and came to an agreement. I can see why so many people here buy from him!

[glastron351]

Welcome to the madness! I`m sure you`ll have a blast! I`m about 8h north of you (Winnipeg, MB) May have to check out your build some time if I get down that way.

Nice to here from another IBEW member. I`m a member of local 2034. Power Electrician (other end of the spectrum..mostly high voltage stuff) but am familiar with the fun of low voltage circuits (have low voltage ticket as well)

Nice to see someone else in a snowy climate doing a build.

Cheers

JG

[Soulstice]

Spent a pleasant 30 minutes on the blower with Mike Forte yesterday... This guy's a stitch! We worked through my requests/quote and came to an agreement. I can see why so many people here buy from him!

Everyone I have ever talked to had great things to say about Mike.

I am very excited to see your build come along. Your off to a great start.

[Fixit]

Since it's a soaring 40 above zero today, I decided to start breaking down the IRS cradle/assembly I got for the roadster. Switched on the shop heat, backed out Mrs. Fixit's daily driver, and got started.

I've really got to get my head wrapped around working on new or nearly new parts... I was done in an hour. It's just foreign to me for bolts to work like bolts, nuts to just spin off, and things to just pop loose with gravity or a "love-tap".

Having worked on 50+ year old stuff the last 10 years, I'm used to starting with 3/8" drive, then 1/2", then the breaker bar, then a cheater on the bar, then the gas-axe! Not being bathed in penetrating oil and getting totally filthy is also a new experience!

Tools used:
1/2" drive - Breaker Bar, Impact Wrench, Ratchet, 1-1/4", 13/16", 18mm, 15mm sockets
3/8" drive - Ratchet, 6" extension, 10mm socket
1/4" drive - Ratchet, 3" extension, 8mm socket
18mm & 15mm Combination wrenches
Dead-Blow hammer (just to pop rotors off hubs)
"Persuader" (wedged between lug studs to loosen axle nut, and pop axles out of diff)

Now to try and get rid of/sell the leftovers...

[Fixit]

Here's a question...

On the OEM half-shafts at the hub/wheel end there is a (for lack of a better term) dirt/crud/water "slinger", that kind-of seals the back of the axle/wheel bearing. (middle pic above)

Does this come with the FFR half-shafts, or should I save the OEM's?

[stack]

mine did not have them from F5. I did not use them. Take them off if you can. You can always decide wether or not to use them later

stack

[WIS89]

John-

Love that El Camino! I have always liked them, a bit more than the Ranchero personally. You did a great job, and I bet she goes like a scalded dog!

I admire your take on the weather. I don't recall ever calling 40 degrees "balmy," but your optimism is great!

I look forward to following along.

Regards,

Steve

[Fixit]

When we hit +40 in March, out come the shorts & T-shirts!... then Ma Nature gets off her meds and throws 10+ inches of snow at us (that happened the last 36 hours).
When you live in MN, any day when you can go outside and the air doesn't HURT, it's a good day.

[edwardb]

Here's a question...
On the OEM half-shafts at the hub/wheel end there is a (for lack of a better term) dirt/crud/water "slinger", that kind-of seals the back of the axle/wheel bearing. (middle pic above)
Does this come with the FFR half-shafts, or should I save the OEM's?

Mine did not have them from F5. I did not use them. Take them off if you can. You can always decide whether or not to use them later. Stack

Just reading your thread. Congrats on the upcoming build. Receiving that IRS pallet looks familiar. Did the same thing with my 20th Anniversary Roadster build a couple years ago. That build was early in the 2015+ Mustang IRS option, so getting them like that was one of the only options. Ford wasn't selling the individual pieces yet. Worked out great for me, and should for you as well. Good luck selling the unused parts. I didn't have much luck. Got rid of everything on eBay except the frame. It went out with recycle. Zero response from Craigslist for anything. Didn't make much and just covered shipping. Maybe the demand has picked up a little since that option has been on the market longer now. My impression is that people are buying aftermarket parts. Not OEM replacements. But good luck!

Regarding your question, maybe the response you received was about the dust covers for the disk brakes? True, those aren't supplied in the kit but you also don't need them. Not even sure they would fit. The pieces on the ends of the CV axles I think you are asking about are included on the axles from Factory Five. These are the axles supplied just a few weeks ago for my Gen 3 Coupe build. Same exact ones as what's used on the Roadster. You can see the parts in question are there. I shot some rattle can clear on the parts to keep them from rusting. Here hanging in the basement while they dry.

[Fixit]

Yup, the little discs just below/inboard of the hub splines were what I was asking about. I'll let 'em go with the OEM half-shafts.

No kidding about responses on Craigslist or other... My only goal at this stage is to recoup the shipping cost (or at least some of it). I've been "trolled" twice already by fakers or tire kickers, nobody serious. I've even put the word out to a couple of collision shop owners I'm friendly with - seeing as (according to YouTube) most new Mustangs wind up bent in the first hours of ownership (! ) I thought they'd like to know I've got parts!

Thanks for the reply! I'll be using many of your ideas and referencing your detailed build threads with my car - I hope to mirror your postings with my own.

[Fixit]

Just to warn others about this potential problem... I bought a rotor to rotor "take out" assembly. You'll be disposing of 75% of it.

One of the problems I had tearing it down dealt with the forward two mounting bolts of the differential housing.

From the factory, the 4 bigazz bolts holding the diff to the cradle are coated with thread-locker Blue.
The "aft/rear" bolts come out easily once you crack them loose with a breaker bar.
The "Forward" bolts might give you a problem.

The OEM Ford bushings have a LOT of twist/flex built in them. So much so, that they've built a little "tang" on the bushing, that registers against a mating tab on the differential housing. When I was attempting to break the death-grip of Loc-Tite on the forward bolts, all of my energy was spent on twisting the rubber - not cracking loose the bolt - until I gave it a closer look.

I wound up using the "persuader" to lever the diff housing forward against the built-in tab/slot mechanism, then my breaker bar energy was correctly transferred to the bolt - not the rubber bushing. One bolt came out easily, the other I nearly rounded off the "tab" on the diff trying to get the mutha loose.

Keep this in mind before you get yourself into a problem!

[Fixit]

As much as I'd love to dig into this thing, I've delayed shipment until Ma Nature gets back on her summer meds, her winter tantrums have melted, and I've got time to get the "40 Watt" in shape for a project.

Here's my order list:
MkIV Complete Kit
Chassis Powdercoat
Coyote mount kit
Coyote Install kit
Coyote Full Length Headers (SS upgrade)
IRS
Body Cut-Outs
Vinyl Seats
FFR GPS Gauges
17" Halibrands
SS Bumper Kit(s)
Wind Wings
Visors
Heat/Defrost (I'm in MN)
Wipers
Assembled Louvers
EFI Fuel Sys
Chrome Roll Bar (DS only)
Roll Bar Grommet kit
Dash Support
Power Steering (Coyote)

I've got a quote from Mike Forte on a Coyote crate & TKO600 setup, (and will be timing that with Stewart's anticipated delivery date.)
I'm going with the .82 Overdrive - Doing the numbers on the .64 vs .82 with my tire height & axle ratio, the .64 calc'd out to 85-ish MPH at 2200 R's. With the speed limits & roads around here I'd never see 5th gear. The .82 calc's out to about 65 MPH - much more in the usable range.

Further digging and research here have revealed some other "must have's", and I'll probably go with them... Advise?
Dropped trunk floor
DS footbox (whose ??)
Column Turn Signals
(Spend my money!)

[John T]

I've really got to get my head wrapped around working on new or nearly new parts... I was done in an hour. It's just foreign to me for bolts to work like bolts, nuts to just spin off, and things to just pop loose with gravity or a "love-tap".

Having worked on 50+ year old stuff the last 10 years, I'm used to starting with 3/8" drive, then 1/2", then the breaker bar, then a cheater on the bar, then the gas-axe! Not being bathed in penetrating oil and getting totally filthy is also a new experience!

I can relate my last build was a 67 Mustang. I am ready for a build using new bolts.

[Fixit]

I can relate brother... I was heavily into Mustangs in my HS years, and worked on many "Flintstone Specials" ('cause that's all I could afford). No floors left, rear springs poking into the trunk, cowl/torque boxes rotted... yech.
ProjectStang1and2.jpg

[edwardb]

I'm going with the .82 Overdrive - Doing the numbers on the .64 vs .82 with my tire height & axle ratio, the .64 calc'd out to 85-ish MPH at 2200 R's. With the speed limits & roads around here I'd never see 5th gear. The .82 calc's out to about 65 MPH - much more in the usable range.

Further digging and research here have revealed some other "must have's", and I'll probably go with them... Advise?
Dropped trunk floor
DS footbox (whose ??)
Column Turn Signals
(Spend my money!)

Those numbers don't seem quite right. What differential ratio are you calculating with? What about tire diameter? .82 might be the right choice but I think you're going to be seeing higher RPM's than that in cruise.

Dropped trunk floor = Russ Thompson has those. They're also pretty easy to fabricate.
DS Footbox = With the newest kit and using a Coyote, there's very little to be gained. Little tuck here and there maybe. Talked about in other threads. But nothing from a vendor.
Column turn signal = Russ Thompson has been the most common for a long time. He makes them from a VW turn signal assembly. He's currently backordered waiting for a new supply of the VW parts. He has a waiting list. I'd let him know if you want one. As long as you are in line behind me for the one I need for my Coupe.

[Fixit]

Calc's were done with a 3.15 final drive, 26" tires, using 2200 RPM. (TKO600 w/ .82)

Tremec Calculator

[edwardb]

Calc's were done with a 3.15 final drive, 26" tires, using 2200 RPM. (TKO600 w/ .82)

Tremec Calculator

That's what I suspected. That's pretty tall in my opinion. I did a build with the .82 TKO and 3.27 diff. I did like how usable the .82 was in town and that there was less of a gap between 4th and 5th. But the RPM was a little high in cruise, and acceleration was a little on the soft side compared to my Mk3 with 3.55. The anniversary build I went back to the .64 TKO and 3.55. Acceleration is back and cruise RPM is reasonable. What doesn't show in the data is that the Coyote has a very flat torque curve approaching 300 ft lbs as low as 2500 RPM. You can drop it into 5th at well below cruise speed and it doesn't complain a bit. I don't think your assessment of never using 5th with .64 would necessarily be the case. FWIW.

[John Ibele]

Paul's got the right idea ... get in line for the turn signal, somewhere behind me too Actually, Russ called me last week and let me know his next batch was in and he was ready for my steering wheel boss; I shipped it to him last weekend. So he's working through his backlog now.

Looking forward to my official photographer duties when your kit arrives ... and watching you grow smaller in the rear view mirror as you start the inventory process. Actually, its not bad, and you'll be so thrilled at how shiny and new all the parts look, as opposed to rusted and frozen with MN road salt. Big adventure on the horizon!

[Fixit]

That was one of my questions... I've got no experience with a Coyote 5.0, and don't know where it's "sweet spot" is.
(My turbo'd 3.5 V6 in the F-150 doesn't give a rip, stomp on it and it throws boost until the tires cry Mama!)

I really don't mind buzzing in the low 2K's to have the power "on tap". I just don't want to be gear-hunting at highway cruise when I want to pass someone. (My '65 Camino "Blackie" has a 4-spd Auto, w/ 3.08's out back. At cruise MPH (70-ish) he's barely off idle! Any press on the loud-pedal results in a downshift.

You touched on another sore-spot too... gear spacing. I'm not too crazy on the severe jump between 4th & 5th with the .64 OD. I'm looking for more of an extension of gearing, than an economy/rpm savings....

[Fixit]

Well Mr. John - "grow smaller"... challenge accepted!

I've got an engine crane & leveler that's available for the asking, blast cabinet in the "40 Watt", and other "stuff". Going rate is Shiner Bock or Fat Tire.

[Jeff Kleiner]

John,
I think you've stumbled onto the double edged sword that comes with the TKO. If you want the .82 fifth gear you are forced to take a 2.87 first. Overall ratio in fifth with a 3.15 rear end = 2.58:1 but on the other end the overall reduction in first is 9.04:1---a little soft in my opinion (I like to see somewhere around 10.0 to 10.5:1 for a good useable yet snappy first gear on the street). If you go to the 3.27 first gear it nets a nice 10.30:1 overall if you combine it with a 3.55 rear end but then you are locked in to the .64 fifth resulting in a 2.27:1 overall which may be a higher than you're after, not to mention the big step between 4th and 5th that you seem to wish to avoid. I've always wondered why TREMEC didn't ever offer the best of both and build one with a 3.27 first and .82 fifth...

Jeff

[Fixit]

I'm also thinking about power-to-weight, and traction... with 430+/300lbft just off idle on tap even with a sticky/wide tire I'll take a bit of an expected "lull" before things get interesting out back.

[RR20AC]

Just ask Forte when you order. He fixed me up being a novice and the results are incredible.

[JoeAIII]

Those numbers don't seem quite right. What differential ratio are you calculating with? What about tire diameter? .82 might be the right choice but I think you're going to be seeing higher RPM's than that in cruise.

Dropped trunk floor = Russ Thompson has those. They're also pretty easy to fabricate.
DS Footbox = With the newest kit and using a Coyote, there's very little to be gained. Little tuck here and there maybe. Talked about in other threads. But nothing from a vendor.
Column turn signal = Russ Thompson has been the most common for a long time. He makes them from a VW turn signal assembly. He's currently backordered waiting for a new supply of the VW parts. He has a waiting list. I'd let him know if you want one. As long as you are in line behind me for the one I need for my Coupe.

I went with the rt turn signal, shipped him my steering boss this week. Fix it, if you decide you want one, reach out to him well ahead of when you think you need it. Edwardb, I would reach out for an update if you haven't already heard from him, I can't imagine I got on the list before you did.

[edwardb]

I went with the rt turn signal, shipped him my steering boss this week. Fix it, if you decide you want one, reach out to him well ahead of when you think you need it. Edwardb, I would reach out for an update if you haven't already heard from him, I can't imagine I got on the list before you did.

We're all set. Steering boss on it's way out.

[sbhunter]

Wait a minute! I’ve been on his back order list for turn signal since December. He didn’t call me. I’ll have to call him tomorrow. Sorry to go off topic.

[Fixit]

Mother Nature's still off her meds in the Northland... We should be bumping 50 degs, not the TEENS!! (and potentially several inches more of the white-stuff on Sunday). This is getting really old.

Been surfing the "Must Have" threads, and finding more ways to spend money...

I've sent in a "change order" for my kit, substituting a blank dash panel for the pre-punched one - I'm going to do my version of the S/C layout instead of street - but also add the glovebox. The gauge layout of the S/C makes much more sense, but that expanse of "nothing" on the right just doesn't look right IMO.

What is the group's experience with the Alex glovebox? So far it seems to be the best option, as the door is done, and material(s) supplied to cover the dash to match.

Edwardb... On one of your build threads, you built your own glovebox. This is intriguing, as I'm also going to run a heater. I really don't care if the glovebox is practically useless, but I want the look of it over on the right. Do you have any dimensions/templates/parts list?

[Jeff Kleiner]

What is the group's experience with the Alex glovebox? So far it seems to be the best option, as the door is done, and material(s) supplied to cover the dash to match.

Good, but just be sure to allow for lots of lead time 'cause it seems to take a while between order and delivery.

Here it is in one I built for a customer a few years ago:



You may have seen that he also offers a shallow version to allow room for the heater.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Edwardb... On one of your build threads, you built your own glovebox. This is intriguing, as I'm also going to run a heater. I really don't care if the glovebox is practically useless, but I want the look of it over on the right. Do you have any dimensions/templates/parts list?

That was the 20th Anniversary Roadster, and mainly driven by using leather for everything and I wanted the glovebox door to match. That lead to fabricating the whole thing, lining the inside with leather too. The usual scope creep. That build doesn't have a heater and the glovebox I made wouldn't have allowed for one. I don't have any dimensions or patterns. Strictly a one-off. The shape of the door is roughly similar to Alex's (which I mentioned in the thread) and in reality like most Roadster gloveboxes. **********, etc. I highly recommend the Alex glovebox. That's what I used on the previous build (#7750) and it turned out nice. I like the vinyl he supplies a lot. As Jeff said, his order process can be a little long. If you want one, best to order sooner rather than later. It will eventually arrive. Also as Jeff said, he has a shallow version made to work with a heater. It looks fine, just doesn't have a lot of space inside which makes sense of course. It actually doesn't have hinges. The door is loose with pins at the bottom that drop into holes and then the catch on the top.