Visit our community sponsor
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
just knew I was due for an OCD attack ... so here are the results.
When the bed liner was applied a lip of about 1" was left at all edges of the body shell except the openings for the brake cooling, oil cooler and radiator. Additionally I had applied filler to certain areas to smooth out the rough fiberglass like the "ceiling" of the trunk and around the exhaust openings.
Now here is where the OCD set in ... I decided that these areas should look like aluminum. Here is the basic procedure I followed:
1. Sanding and grinding ... actually done before the filler and bed liner was applied;
2. Fill ... I ended up using a combination of fillers but the goal was not perfection; the aluminum on the originals was not perfect from what I can see in photos;
3. Brush on the primer ... The primer was brushed on to assist in creating a grain in the "aluminum";
4. Brush on the aluminum ... After the last coast was applied a stiff bristle brush was used to further the grain; and,
5. Trim the bed liner just over the edge of the aluminum to create the appearance that the bed liner was laid over the aluminum body.
This also served the purpose of completely sealing the inside of the shell.
The "grain" and patina ...
The overlapped bed liner ...
Here is the "ceiling" of the trunk area ...
If I had known that I was going to do the aluminum paint ... I could have painted it first then masked it off and then painted the bedliner.
The hardware for retaining the wiring for the lights at the four corners of the body installed.
My plan is to now mask everything off once it has dried for a couple of days and flip the body right side up for the application of Slick Sand.
The Olde Goat Went Crazy on this one ...
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
I really like that aluminum look, Carl.
Will you do the underside of the trunk lid and hood, like that as well? I bet that would look pretty authentic.
Bill,
The underside of the trunk lid and the hood will get the same treatment ...
Thanks ...
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
The updates are going to get out of order ...
After getting the inside of the shell completed I flipped the body over on the buck to finish the masking and start applying the Slick Sand to the exterior.
With the space limitations I decided to apply to the front part of the car (the door posts forward) and then do the rear section. All was fine until the second application ... I got interrupted during the preparation of the SS and forgot one key ingredient ... the catalyst.
Of course I did not realize this until I went back to the bench after applying about 13 oz of the stuff on the car ... mainly the front end, the lower parts of the body when where it curves under the body and a few other choice spots.
After some quick internet searches and consultation with Jeff Kliener ... there was only one solution available. Strip all the SS off the areas where the non catalyzed material had been applied.
The challenge is getting this gooey soft stuff off the car. Even after about 5 hours the stuff was still soft.
It just clogs up any sandpaper and just rolls up ... so I broke out the paint scrappers, scotch pads and acetone. The final step was a DA sander with 80 grit sand paper (which I still went through a bunch of disks). After my wife and I worked for about 3 hours we got most of the bad stuff off the car. I still need to take care of a few spots under the radiator opening, the PS door jamb and lights. This was about midway through the process.
After scraping ....
The a different surface after sanding ...
I did manage to correctly mix and apply SS to the rear part of the car ... started guide coat sanding.
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
What's the latest Carl? You taking a break?
After a medically mandated break that started March 7th and finally ended last week ...
For the first time since the beginning of March I actually did some work on the Cobra ... after getting medical and Commander in Chief clearance to do so
Since I am not quite ready to tackle the remaining body work and painting, I went back to the frame to work the punch list of items needed to be done before the body goes back on for the final time.
First up ... electrical
Since when I last had the car running in October 2016 I had made some modifications/improvements behind the dash which required requiring the bulkhead connector.
All the sensor wiring for the gauges, the controls for the electric heater control valve, wiper motor as well as starter and EFI related wiring.
Here are photos of the work in progress:
I first connected the pins on the dash side using my "cheat sheet" ... which was modified to make the assignments a little easier to understand.
The dash side and the "cheat sheet" was used to connect up the pins to the engine side connector
I finished up the in dash side of the bulkhead connector and started on the engine side. I found one error in my original engine side drawing which I had to correct but left the pins in the same spots.
I am taking the engine side slowly to make sure I have the correct pin connections ...
Other than testing ... I have finished the bulkhead connector with the new wiring. Here is the new diagram:
Here are two views of the installation:
Engine Side. A cover will be installed over the connection and attached to the firewall via the three 1/4”x20 screws through the three rivnuts shown surrounding the connector.Basically all the unbraided wires will not be visible after the cover is installed.
The connector inside the dash ... the temporary wire wraps will be removed and cleaned up once the dash is removed (one last time I hope).
In hindsight I would have taken a different approach to getting the wiring through the bulkhead. In the early stages I was thinking that if I ever had to remove the engine I would have only one disconnect inside the compartment to remove. As the wiring through the bulkhead expanded to include other stuff that design goal was abandoned.
At least now I feel like I am starting to move forward ...
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
I got one more item on the punch list completed: Replacement of the wimpy sounding FFR horns with a mini air horn by Trombe-Stebel. At 139 dB I think it will be plenty loud and more appropriate than the “beep” from the Factory Five Racing Version.
A new bracket was fabricated from some spare aluminum to use the same holes that the mounts for the FFR “Road runner” sounding horn. The kit didn’t have the bracket; it did have the nut and bolt to attach the horn to a bracket. Although the kit comes with a relay, it was not used because the circuit from the POWERCELL is rated at 25 amps.
I may paint or powder coat the bracket in the future.
From the bottom ...
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Folks,
I go karted the build back in the Summer of 2016 ... now I am at the stage of re starting the engine in preparation for finally getting this thing finished.
Here is my dilemma ... at least I think it is:
1. Distilled Water was used in the coolant system with no anti freeze for the "first" first start and go kart. Should I drain all the coolant now and refill with the appropriate coolant anti freeze mix? (BTW no coolant leaks over the last 2 years);
2. Gas ... there is a about 1/4 of a tank ... should I drain and refill with fresh gas?
3. Oil ... original oil in the engine with no leaks over the last two years ... can I still use it as is?
If there is anything else to consider please post ...
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
#1 - Drain out the plain water, maybe flush the system to get any crud out that may have broken loose. Fill with 50/50 premix and go with it.1. Distilled Water was used in the coolant system with no anti freeze for the "first" first start and go kart. Should I drain all the coolant now and refill with the appropriate coolant anti freeze mix? (BTW no coolant leaks over the last 2 years);
2. Gas ... there is a about 1/4 of a tank ... should I drain and refill with fresh gas?
3. Oil ... original oil in the engine with no leaks over the last two years ... can I still use it as is?
#2 - YES. Today's gas is crap. Drain the tank into a few cans and run it through the lawnmower. I wouldn't "refill" it, maybe 5 or so gallons (in case there's a problem... you know Mr. Murphy? He'll show up with a tank problem as soon as it's filled.)
#3 - Spin on a new filter, top off the oil and run it. Your original go-kart run would've trapped whatever crud was in the system. Consider an oil change after the first 1000 miles.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is here
I have considered replacing the stock horn. How did you decide upon this particular mini air horn? I looked into these for my motorcycle several years ago. I found the sound to be disappointing, and the quality very poor. I will look forward to hearing your impressions.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021
Roadster Frame Dolly Plan
2X on the gas, but I don't burn it off in my small engines, I mix it into a full tank on my high usage DD. If the gas is questionable your going to create a headache in a small engine. but mix small amounts into a full tank of 10 - 32 gallons ( my pickup only gets 13 MPG) I can make 5 gallons of questionable gas go away pretty quick and never notice that it wasn't "fresh"
I would strongly suggest fuel stabilizer for the next gas that goes into the tank. some brands claim to keep gas fresh for 2 years. but I only go 1 on my seldom used power tools. ( Generator etc )
good luck on your Second First start.
Chris AKA Gromit
I bought it so long ago ... I cannot remember why I picked it over others at this point. I have only heard the sound from posts on the internet so I am not sure exactly what it will sound like mounted in the car. When looking for additional information on the installation process I did see very mixed reviews on the mini horn ... so I am a little worried that I may ultimately be disappointed.
What horn did you use on your motorcycle after replacing mini air horn?
Carl
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Thanks for the help on the getting it restarted issues ...
Yesterday I drained and flushed the coolant system, pumped out the gas tank via the fuel level sender access and checked the oil.
I did get a bunch of brown water out of the coolant system flush. Pumping out the gas turned out to be a bit tedious since I was using a cheap HF hand pump ... luckily I had much less in the tank than I originally thought ...
The oil looks just about the same as when I originally put it in and the levels are good.
Thanks again,
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
I’ve picked up some great tips on this thread, thanks all...best one is the Cleco’s so far! Also like it as build is for Carl and that’s also my name
My Mk4 roadster arrived yesterday, I ordered the complete kit and already have, with a little help, the body off, panels off and mounted the first two engine bay F panels. I’m waiting on front lower arms as they were on backorder. I’d like to follow the build manual in sequence to avoid missing a step; however the question I have is:
Any reason I can’t place and mount all the panels while I wait for parts? Not sure what others do?
Exciting times, can’t wait to make some progress on it
Carl
Hi Carl, I wouldn't attach any panels before they are call for in the build manual. Also start your own build thread so you don't hijack Carl's. Think about putting info about your build in your signature line.
JR
Last edited by jrcuz; 06-24-2018 at 11:55 AM.
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
I decided to get three coats of Slick Sand applied to the body ... working in the early morning to avoid the heat.
I pulled the body out on the driveway and set the front up higher to get better access to the openings in the cowl. After sanding to 80 grit and cleaning with degreaser and then blowing everything down with compressed air I got three good coats with just a few bugs and bits of dust included.
In addition to those pests I also managed to hit the body with the gun or hose in some spots which will require some additional attention. On the positive side I did manage only one area with a run. A few things I learned ...
1. Once the body is essentially the same color the imperfections seem to pop out. Some of these I just plain missed but others are a lot more subtle.
- One that should have been obvious- Here is one that was a lot harder to see until I blocked sanded with 120 grit.
2. Applying the SS helped me understand the ups and downs of applying future layers like the base and clear coats. Some examples include:
- Keeping the hose away from the body;
- Paint from the inside out ... meaning lean over the car and the inside horizontal surfaces like in front of the cockpit, around the hood seating surface and front of the the trunk before painting the fenders and sides;
- The rollovers in the cockpit front and rear standing inside the cockpit;
- Painting the body where it rolls over the frame under the car; and,
- Practice a lot on the trash cans and other surfaces before attempting to put pain on the body.
I ended up using one gallon of Slick Sand to cover the body with 3 layers of sanding primer.
Next ... a lot of block sanding with guide coat.
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Looking good Carl. You are getting there!
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Carl, I'm glad to see your feeling good enough to get back to work on the roadster.
Can you not use a bit of spot putty on some of those tiny holes, and maybe even that scratch on the door sill, on top of the slick sand? Your going to be spraying a final sealer primer anyways.
Bill,
I've not researched it yet but I believe that I can go over the spots with putty. As I progress through the grits from 120 to 160 I have found a few more places to fix.
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
After 3 coats of Slick Sand I started the process of taking it off ...
I used the longest Dura-Block I have ... 16 inches with 120 grit sandpaper and guide coat for the larger sections and the softer foam blocks for other areas where the Dura-Block's would not fit well.
After applying the guide coat the long Dura Block was used on the larger open surfaces criss crossing the sanding patterns.
I found some low spots in front of the DS door opening. These blocks are harder or stiffer than the foam blocks and, at least for me, worked better to highlight the low spots.
I used a carpenter ‘s pencil to mark areas for further repair or filling (I figured that is better than tape or a marker ... I hope I am right).
A couple of low spots (circled using the pencil).
I also found some low spots on the surfaces between the rear cockpit edge and the trunk ...
Questions:
1. Should I continue with the 180 grit to see the full extent of the areas to be repaired or fix the low spots first?
2. Should I fix the low spots with Rage Gold or Slick Sand? I am thinking Rage Gold but I want to make sure there are no issues with going over the guide coat and Slick Sand.
Any other recommendations/suggestions would be appreciated.
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
In addition to the Dura Blocks I am using the closed cell foam blocks which are more pliable or bendable ... but ...
After multiple uses the sandpaper just will not stick to them for very long and I end up using a lot more paper than needed.
Is there a trick to cleaning these foam blocks so that the paper sticks longer/better?
Carl
PS Using 3M or Mirka Paper
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Try a little acetone or lacquer thinner to clean 'em up. I have to do it to my DA pad every so often. The adhesive residue builds up, collects dust and then the discs don't stick well---ever get hit right between the eyes with a 40 grit disc that's been flung off at full speed? IT SUCKS!
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks ... I will give that a try ... 40 grit in the kisser would not be fun but in my case it might make some improvements in my looks.
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Folks,
It has been a while since I have been able to work on the car or post up any progress. A lot has happened to the this Olde Goat ... pacemaker installation and aortic valve replacement were the big ones. The recovery has gone well so I finally was able to get back in the garage.
Folks,
This is a very overdue post ... the work was actually done at the beginning of the month.
While I am spending most of my time in NC on the project of rebuilding our home on the coast ... I did get a chance to finish the Slick Sand sanding to 180 grit before coming back down to continue work. This mean that I have applied at least three coats of Slick Sand and sanded it to shape on the body, doors, trunk lid and hood.
Here are some photos:
As I sanded and inspected the body I continue to find areas to fix ... here are a few of the minor but irritating ones ...
Of course here is the worst or most scary part of the work ...
I will be fully dressed out for the painting of the really bad stuff ...
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.
MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.
Wow Carl, glad to see you are back at it. Looking good.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Where's Carl these days? No updates for quite awhile..Pray all is well with him.
I was just thinking the same thing. I saw he liked a post on FB a few days ago
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Thanks for asking folks ... After the health challenges of 2018, I have been spending most of the time keeping healthy, getting caught up on work around and outside the house and getting back into the work routine.
With respect to the build ... I will post some photos here shortly ... but my goal is to get the car ready for the road by Spring 2020.
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
Glad to hear Carl. Yes, health comes first.
The Heart has to handle all the excitement one gets, every time you buckle yourself in to the roadster seat.
FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010