Is anyone using 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener to mount the FFR Vinyl Dash?
A few people have suggested that 3M Dual Lock fastener should be a good way to mount the FFR Vinyl Dash. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-...cm_wl_huc_item. So far I haven’t been able to find any posts from people who’ve used it. If you have tried it please share your experience!
I’m using the FFR Vinyl Dash with glovebox and the Vintage gauge set with GPS speedometer. I’ll also be using 3-5 brackets supporting the dash from its bottom lip.
Just in case the experience of pioneers hasn’t been good, can anyone whose used other methods recommend a removable mounting system that has worked well with the Vinyl Dash? How difficult would it be to change the mounting system on a finished car?
I did. I have Mike Everson's under dash filler panel, but if you are using 3-5 brackets that should give a similar level of support. Once the body is on, there is very little room for the dash to go anywhere so I have found the velcro to be more than adequate. Only issue I had was getting the adhesive to stick to the powdercoated frame, but eventually did.
My application is little different B/C I have a custom (non-padded) dash but I used industrial velcro for a while... but the dash always sagged over time. I ended up installing button-head screws into L brackets instead.
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
Thank you for responding! 90 degree / L brackets on the dash hoop seem to be the order of the day. To overcome the risk of eventual sagging I’m thinking lots of brackets for lots of Velcro.
I used the 3M dual lock for mounting the vinyl dash in combination with some custom-made under dash supports and a custom center console. The 3M dual lock does a great job of locking the vinyl dash against the hoop, and then the center console supports the dash vertically. I also made some tabs for the hoop to increase the interface of the dual loop between the dash and the hoop. I'm still building and have yet to log any miles, but it seems pretty solid.
I'm using the 3M dual lock product now across the board in my builds instead of Velcro. It's a good product and works great. It does however hold really well. Maybe too well. To the point where bond of the product itself to whatever substrate you're using is the greater concern. As others have mentioned. I can't say how it would stick to the vinyl dash, since I haven't used one or tried it there. I'd do some testing to confirm it's up the task. I'm confident saying the dual lock won't separate. Not as sure about how well they will stick. BTW, I'm using 3M dual lock as the sole attachment for the door cards on my #8674 Roadster build. Sticks fine to the painted fiberglass side. On the masonite backing of the door cards, I smeared some epoxy in the areas where the dual lock was going to be attached. Waited for it to get 95% cured and stuck the dual lock. Seems to be holding fine. They're still solid after three years and all manner of stuff jammed into the door pockets. We'll see what happens if I ever have to get them off.
Last edited by edwardb; 05-09-2019 at 09:47 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
The 3M Dual-Lock is a great product (made in Fairmont MN BTW...). I use it all the time to mount devices inside control cabinets.
A couple of tips for using it:
- Use multiple, small areas of product, with a bit of space between them. (One long strip of this stuff and you'll never get the piece off without damage.)
- Clean the attachment area with alcohol and let dry
- If the attachment area is porous (like Masonite/hardboard), shoot a few coats of rattle can clear or something on it to seal it (or a smear of epoxy, etc. as suggested).
- To separate the parts, work a thin tool (a "tweaker" screwdriver is good) between the layers. Gently pry and break the death-grip.
Looking into using this to hold the top of the vinyl dash to the hoop as well. Wondering if I should grind off the powdercoat where the dual lock will be placed? I've read that some have an issue with the 3M adhering, and some don't.
Looking into using this to hold the top of the vinyl dash to the hoop as well. Wondering if I should grind off the powdercoat where the dual lock will be placed? I've read that some have an issue with the 3M adhering, and some don't.
I only scuffed-up the powder coat before applying the 3M. It seems to be adhering fine. I've removed and re-installed the dash several times since then and there's been no sign of the 3M losing its adhesion to the powder coat.
Last edited by RJD; 05-10-2019 at 09:59 AM.
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.