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Looking great! I’m also on the fence about the powder coat, but part of that is because on mine it flaked off by a few of the suspension mounts. I probably would have gone gloss if i had gotten it coated myself.
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Originally Posted by
NYMike
Looking great! I’m also on the fence about the powder coat, but part of that is because on mine it flaked off by a few of the suspension mounts. I probably would have gone gloss if i had gotten it coated myself.
Thanks Mike,
Yup, where the panhard bracket bolts to the 4 inch tube a bunch of PC cracked and came off when I torqued it. I’ll POR 15 it but again it won’t match because the satin finish.
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I found the same problem with my heater template, off by about half inch. Measure twice. Cut once. I was lucky enough to read about it in other build threads. Pretty well documented issue.
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My powder instructions are 20 minutes at 400* F. Different powders, different melting points. I usually set the oven temp higher than recommended curing temp. After opening the door and hanging items the temp is close to the recommended setting.
My powder gun does best at 5 to 6 lbs of pressure. I hang the part on a stainless wire and that on a stainless clothes line. The clothes line is connected to the guns static ground. That way everything is grounded at one time.
You can pre cook your items for cleaning and cooking out oils.
With the glass oven door you can watch the powder melt to molten and gloss.
I practice hanging all items in the oven, before powder coating. Very frustrating to have parts get bumped and having to spray the powder again.
Body, parking light brace looks good.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
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I am learning to powder coat as well. I have a Redline EZ50 gun which works great. This is what I have learned along the way.
Grounding is critical and relying on your household electrical system may not be good enough. If you have direct access to your grounding rod in your house, that works, otherwise you can add a new grounding rod which is pretty easy. I put one in my basement workshop - 6' copper coated rod was $17 from Ace Hardware, drilled a hole in the basement floor and fairly easy work pounding it in with a small sledge hammer. Adhesion of powder was significantly improved once I did this.
As Railroad mentions, each powder has its own bake temp and duration. It is important to note that this temp is the surface temperature of what you are coating, not the oven temperature. A thin piece of metal will reach the desired temperature quickly, but a brake caliper will take a while. You need an infrared thermometer to measure surface temperatures - $20 at Harbor Freight or most auto parts stores. Once the surface temp hits the target, that is when you start your bake time. You may need to dial back your oven temp once you get the correct surface temperature so as not to overshoot too much.
If there is trouble with adhesion, it could be a prep problem. Parts need to be thoroughly cleaned and de-greased. General rule is that parts should be clean enough that you can put them on your best white linen and leave no mark. I too do a pre-cook like Railroad for any cast parts. Sand blasting is ideal, but not something I have access to. Treatment with iron phosphate will help and there are a few companies that sell it in small quantities (gallon size). Also, turning down your pressure can help too as it reduces the rate of powder delivered and allows better charging of the powder.
I find second coating a challenge with getting consistent adhesion. General recommendation is to reduce your voltage (if your gun supports it).
Bracket looks good, nice job. Good luck with your panels, I ended up sending most of mine out as I didn't have a big enough oven.
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Excellent feedback, Thank You both.
Grounding is critical and relying on your household electrical system may not be good enough
I would assume then if you see a random spark while coating your grounding is not good enough. That's what happened on my first piece, maybe had more to do with my inconsistent coating on the first try. I ended up attaching my rack differently the second time. I will harden that up first.
I practice hanging all items in the oven, before powder coating. Very frustrating to have parts get bumped and having to spray the powder again.
Body, parking light brace looks good.
This I learned last night too. Order of operation will be test hang and remove, then pre heat the oven while I clean, pre bake if necessary then shoot.
What di you guys do differently with chrome? My plan was to scuff it giving it a brushed finish for better adhesion. I was planning to buy a few cheep chrome items to test on.
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The spark is indication, the ground is good, also holding the gun too close to target.
I have not coated over chrome. Maybe some light glass beading or fine sanding prior to coating will help. Any change in surface texture will show in the powder coating.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
What di you guys do differently with chrome? My plan was to scuff it giving it a brushed finish for better adhesion. I was planning to buy a few cheep chrome items to test on.
I have not done a previously chromed piece. You might want to try calling a local powder coater and ask their advice or posting the question on the Powder365 Forum.
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Not a waxer
You have installed the shortened link on the front on the driver's side; it needs to go to the rear. Your passenger side is correct.
Jeff
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Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
You have installed the shortened link on the front on the driver's side; it needs to go to the rear. Your passenger side is correct.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, that makes more sense.
I got stuck on the idea that the shorter sleeve had to be on the solid welded leg. Unfortunately that means on the drivers side I trimmed the wrong threaded pieces. Hopefully that doesn’t come back o bite me. I’ll get that down and fixed.
Update** swapped. Hopefully I’m back on track.
434C3378-D8C9-457A-93F0-824185AF68FF.jpg
Another thing is after every phase start reading back through a few choice build threads. I was looking at Fman's and he had that issue already sorted via Paul. There is just so much great information on this forum.
Last edited by Blitzboy54; 03-22-2021 at 09:08 PM.
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Looks nice! We are in very similar spots it looks like. I drilled mine switch holes from the underside without removing my pedals, it worked okay. The clutch bracket didn't seem like it was going to fit no matter what I drilled, I cut a small amount off of it in the rear with my hacksaw and it installed perfectly after that.
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Originally Posted by
BeePea
Looks nice! We are in very similar spots it looks like. I drilled mine switch holes from the underside without removing my pedals, it worked okay. The clutch bracket didn't seem like it was going to fit no matter what I drilled, I cut a small amount off of it in the rear with my hacksaw and it installed perfectly after that.
The back of the pedal box is rounded a bit. Its easy to push the bracket too far back and not notice it's not totally flat. Then when you bring it around to the other side its a touch off.
We are sort of tied at the hip on this thing since the beginning So far it's been a lot of fun, hope you feel the same.
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
The back of the pedal box is rounded a bit. Its easy to push the bracket too far back and not notice it's not totally flat. Then when you bring it around to the other side its a touch off.
We are sort of tied at the hip on this thing since the beginning
So far it's been a lot of fun, hope you feel the same.
I am enjoying it quite a bit, just wish I had my IRS parts so I can work on that.
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Looks great! When you put the gas pedal in, I would recommend mocking up the inside footbox panels to make sure you have clearance for the pedal. Its pretty tight in there and ours was not going to work where we initially thought we wanted it.
MK4 Complete Kit, EFI 427W/TKO 600, 2015 IRS
Ordered: 11/6/20, Kit Completion: 2/13/21, Picked Up: 2/16/21, Build Started: 2/19/21, First Start: 6/13/21, Go Kart: 8/15/21, Sent for Paint: 12/23/21, Back From Paint: 6/16/22, Street Legal: 7/11/22
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
FFR has clearly moved on to a new accelerator pedal since the manual was published. it's unclear how to move the pedal leg. I eventually figured out you had to remove the spline from the pedal body but you need to use a little force
That took us a while to figure out too and even longer to actually force it apart without destroying it after we figured it out. They said the angle could be matched later in the car too, but I don't know how I would get it apart without removing it from the car. Hopefully it wont come to that.
Your powder coating looks great and I'm jealous! A separate oven is not in the cards for me so its not something we are going to be able to do on our build.
MK4 Complete Kit, EFI 427W/TKO 600, 2015 IRS
Ordered: 11/6/20, Kit Completion: 2/13/21, Picked Up: 2/16/21, Build Started: 2/19/21, First Start: 6/13/21, Go Kart: 8/15/21, Sent for Paint: 12/23/21, Back From Paint: 6/16/22, Street Legal: 7/11/22
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
NYMike
That took us a while to figure out too and even longer to actually force it apart without destroying it after we figured it out. They said the angle could be matched later in the car too, but I don't know how I would get it apart without removing it from the car. Hopefully it wont come to that.
Your powder coating looks great and I'm jealous! A separate oven is not in the cards for me so its not something we are going to be able to do on our build.
Thank you,
Yeah I made my best guess based on what other build threads looked like and the manual. Agreed if you have to adjust it you need to take it back out. That's why my drivers footbox won't have the outer panel installed until I am passed having a running motor.
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I hated that stupid accelerator pedal, I dinged it up trying to get it in the right position. On the flip side, drilling the holes in the differential was not problem at all, which I have seen quite a few others complain about it.
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Tool Baron
Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
a bunch of PC cracked and came off when I torqued it. I’ll POR 15 it but again it won’t match because the satin finish.
POR makes a chassis black spray top coat. It's a really good match for the satin F5R PC.
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
I will never forget My Buddy Paul.
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So jealous that you have brakes. The wheels and panels look incredible! Those wheels are going to look awesome with the body on. Beer fridge is definitely a good addition to the build.
MK4 Complete Kit, EFI 427W/TKO 600, 2015 IRS
Ordered: 11/6/20, Kit Completion: 2/13/21, Picked Up: 2/16/21, Build Started: 2/19/21, First Start: 6/13/21, Go Kart: 8/15/21, Sent for Paint: 12/23/21, Back From Paint: 6/16/22, Street Legal: 7/11/22
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Originally Posted by
NYMike
So jealous that you have brakes. The wheels and panels look incredible! Those wheels are going to look awesome with the body on. Beer fridge is definitely a good addition to the build.
I agree on all 3 counts!
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Thanks guys! The beer fridge has been a solid addition.
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
I also "installed" this.
Best addition yet!
Chris
Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24.
Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
MK4 Complete kit.
Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
Build Thread.
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This thing is starting to look like a car! I'm happy and jealous. Congrats and nice work!
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Thanks Chris! It’s been a nice addition, if the garage door is open my friends know to pop in. Wife has been spending time hanging out too.
This thing is starting to look like a car! I'm happy and jealous. Congrats and nice work!
Thanks man. Take your time and enjoy the journey. I had a head start and have had an unusual amount of time to work on it. My dad is out this week so it’s going to be a full weeks worth, but I expect things to slow down soon. I appreciate the kind words
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
Completed as much driver footbox as I car to for a while. I test fit the rest but tucked it away for later. I can see that gap management will be a thing. Some of these gaps will require me to fabricate some pieces from scrap aluminum. However I can see I will need a water sealing solution. I think I may use a spray on sealer.
I'm on to the cockpit. I plan to put my charging ports behind the transmission tunnel on the u joint cover. I've seen it done. If anyone knows why this would be terrible mistake please let me know.
Your black panels look great! Its really coming together. We are probably going to use some silicone and HVAC tape to seal some of those smaller gaps and scrap aluminum like you said for the bigger ones.
I really like that idea for the charging ports. My only concern would be the back side getting wet under the car. Not sure if that is actually an issue though. Where did you get the charging ports from?
MK4 Complete Kit, EFI 427W/TKO 600, 2015 IRS
Ordered: 11/6/20, Kit Completion: 2/13/21, Picked Up: 2/16/21, Build Started: 2/19/21, First Start: 6/13/21, Go Kart: 8/15/21, Sent for Paint: 12/23/21, Back From Paint: 6/16/22, Street Legal: 7/11/22
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Originally Posted by
NYMike
Your black panels look great! Its really coming together. We are probably going to use some silicone and HVAC tape to seal some of those smaller gaps and scrap aluminum like you said for the bigger ones.
I really like that idea for the charging ports. My only concern would be the back side getting wet under the car. Not sure if that is actually an issue though. Where did you get the charging ports from?
I don’t think it will be an issue honestly. Everything is sealed plastics and I plan to use heat shrink over the connections.
This is the port I used. I originally got the link from Terry in LV. It’s what he used. I considered putting it in the dash but I’m installing a cubby and thought I could tuck the phones in there while charging. It’s been done both ways.
Ginsco Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Dual USB 2A/1A Charger Power Adapter Outlet for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV DIY Kit (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B79F8CW...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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