Happy 2021! New year! New project! I've been dreaming about this for at least 15 years. One obstacle to that dream was that for most of that time I was working overseas. Another obstacle was that I didn't have much experience working on cars other than a few oil changes as a teenager. In 2016, with the oil price drop, my company forced me into early retirement and sent me back to the US - obstacle 1 down. After getting a few weeks of settling in to life back in the Houston, I got bored. I suddenly realized I can learn how to do almost anything on Youtube. With my wife permission (of course), I started smashing our bathroom and converted a tube to a shower, add a vent fan, and replaced the window. Soon, I found a house in disrepair and spent the next three years remodeling everything. We finished it this summer, listed it ourselves and sold it in 6 days. While home renovations doesn't really help with car building, I did have to work on the old work truck that I bought for the home renovation project. After spending $2500 at the shop and not having the problem resolved, I decided to fit it myself under the direction of Youtube. After 3 years of doing my own maintenance (belt change, U-joint change, radiator swap on the side of the road, starter replacement and finally an engine swap), I have enough confidence to take on this kit - obstacle #2 down. Obviously, I have tons to learn and that's a big part of the draw for me. I had a blast at the build school with txboiler and bluemud. Looking forward to take this journey with this community.
Welcome! You're in for an excellent adventure. Couple of quick comments about your list of parts: (1) You say "SFI Bell." I'm assuming QuickTime? That's one of the only options. I'd highly recommend the QuickTime RM-6080 non-SFI version. The SFI model has a full circle that hangs well below the frame. Not good. Even the non-SFI one needs trimmed a bit. The SFI version also has some frame interference that I've read about. Unless you're planning use in sanctioned events, the non-SFI one is still very robust and offers more protection than an aluminum one. (2) Not sure how you're planning to use the Russ Thompson accelerator pedal. It's a nice piece. But with the Coyote you have a drive-by-wire (DBW) accelerator pedal assembly that comes with the Coyote control pack. It's required. Not sure how you'd integrate the RT pedal with it.
Good luck with your build.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Some pictures from the delivery. Some of you may recognize Kelly who played Santa Claus. Don't see Santa in shorts very often. Really appreciate these guys who work through many of the holidays and still have a great attitude. IMG_5301.JPGIMG_5298.JPGLARQ8747.jpg
Here's what I have done since receiving my Christmas present:
Completed the inventory with my wife. She's a lot more organized than I am. We labeled everything by boxes and put them shelves that I built out of scrap wood.
Built a body buck using the drawing in the appendix of manual. IMG_5317.jpg
Disassembled the aluminum panels. MYDS1550.jpg
Degreased the center section (rusty pumpkin) with the stuff that came with the POR15 kit IMG_5331.JPGIMG_5342.jpg
Swapping out the mustang studs on the hubs - don't always have the right tools, but was still able to pull the studs through IMG_5344.jpgIMG_5345.jpg
Welcome! You're in for an excellent adventure. Couple of quick comments about your list of parts: (1) You say "SFI Bell." I'm assuming QuickTime? That's one of the only options. I'd highly recommend the QuickTime RM-6080 non-SFI version. The SFI model has a full circle that hangs well below the frame. Not good. Even the non-SFI one needs trimmed a bit. The SFI version also has some frame interference that I've read about. Unless you're planning use in sanctioned events, the non-SFI one is still very robust and offers more protection than an aluminum one. (2) Not sure how you're planning to use the Russ Thompson accelerator pedal. It's a nice piece. But with the Coyote you have a drive-by-wire (DBW) accelerator pedal assembly that comes with the Coyote control pack. It's required. Not sure how you'd integrate the RT pedal with it.
Good luck with your build.
Thank you Paul, really appreciate your contribution to the forum. Your build threads and support to the members is a huge reason me and other new builders have the confidence to start this journey.
1. Thank you for the heads up. Mike Forte recommended the QT RM-6081. I'm going to check back with him.
2. Didn't realize it was DBW with a pedal already. The reason I went with the RT pedal was because during the build school, they scared us to death showing us that with the FFR stock pedals, it can get stuck if you bend the mounting plate and cause the top arm to get stuck behind the cross member. Screenshot 2021-01-19 120041.png
One fix was to trim the arm and the other was to spend money on the RT pedal. I chose the second. I guess now I'll have 3 gas pedals.
Question on the UCA Screenshot 2021-01-19 132603.png
On the right (back) side, with the adjustments bottomed out, I have ~ 7 1/4". Should I be cutting off 1/4" on each end? I've seen some do it and other didn't.
Usually to get the recommended #'s for alignment (running power steering) the arms/locknuts & sleeves will bottom out before getting there. It's a good pro-active practice to trim them at assembly and be done with it. As an FYI for others, I made up this "X-ray vision" tube while ranting about this possibility in my build thread.
This is an un-cut adjuster sleeve, and a piece of tubing cut the same length. The locknuts are bottomed on the threaded shafts (no more travel possible). It illustrates that if you cut the sleeve(s), you also need to trim the ends of the threaded shaft... there's only about 1/8" to go before the shafts touch. 017.jpg018.jpg
PS. Pay attention to the end of the sleeve with a ring machined around it (the part you'll cut off). This designates Left-Hand thread. Re-mark the sleeve on a flat somewhere, or you'll go goofy trying to thread a LH into a RH.
John, Thank you for the advice and the x-ray vision demonstration. I will definitely proceed with your recommendation.
Here are some more progress:
Surgery on spindles: started the hole with a step bit and a followed it with the 5/8" bit. IMG_5339.jpg
Sawed off an ear with a sawzall and the other one I tried a grinder. I followed the instructions in the manual and was left with a hole from the tap. I noticed that most builders cut on the outside of that hole. I used a dremel and smoothed out the edges. IMG_5343.JPGScreenshot 2021-01-20 120112.png
Question: Before installing the center section, I tried to install the drive shaft adapter. I noticed the drive shaft adapter was just slightly smaller. Has anyone else seen this problem? IMG_5354.jpg
Thank you Paul, really appreciate your contribution to the forum. Your build threads and support to the members is a huge reason me and other new builders have the confidence to start this journey.
1. Thank you for the heads up. Mike Forte recommended the QT RM-6081. I'm going to check back with him.
2. Didn't realize it was DBW with a pedal already. The reason I went with the RT pedal was because during the build school, they scared us to death showing us that with the FFR stock pedals, it can get stuck if you bend the mounting plate and cause the top arm to get stuck behind the cross member. Screenshot 2021-01-19 120041.png
One fix was to trim the arm and the other was to spend money on the RT pedal. I chose the second. I guess now I'll have 3 gas pedals.
Ming. If you need to sell the RT pedal PM me. I was going to buy one
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Welcome aboard, Merciless! I, too, am a noobie. I've received a TON of help from the forum already. Looks like our builds are pretty similar. I'm having a blast so far. I bet you will as well.
Chris Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows. MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.
Welcome aboard, Merciless! I, too, am a noobie. I've received a TON of help from the forum already. Looks like our builds are pretty similar. I'm having a blast so far. I bet you will as well.
Chris, Thank you for the warm welcome. I'm going to need lots of help. Your build looks great. Thank you for share your build thread.
Question: Before installing the center section, I tried to install the drive shaft adapter. I noticed the drive shaft adapter was just slightly smaller. Has anyone else seen this problem? IMG_5354.jpg[/QUOTE]
It turns out that this was the automatic drive shaft adapter. FFR sent me out the manual drive shaft adapter and it fit perfectly.
I slotted the bushings with a hacksaw blade. IMG_5381.JPG
The lower control arms were a bit harder to get in. The whole arm was about 1/4" wider than the frame. FFR told me to just spread the mounting ears. I was able to do that with some all thread and some nuts and washers. IMG_5414.JPGIMG_5415.jpg
Just received the Gen 3 Coyote with TKX courtesy of Mike Forte. IMG_5470.jpg
There was a little damage on the packaging, but the engine seemed fine. IMG_5472.jpg IMG_5471.jpg
Seeing it for the first time is pretty impressive.
Working on aluminum paneling while waiting for the POL. Got a question. Most of the paneling fit together really well. However in the driver side foot box, the inside panel seems to stick beyond the center panel where the red line is. I'm about to trim it unless someone has some suggestions. Has anyone else had this problem? InkedIMG_5477_LI.jpg InkedIMG_5478_LI.jpg
I wouldn’t trim it. It doesn’t look lined up right to me. The bottom of the panel rides along the bottom foot box frame and there is some wiggle room there. In your picture the top of the piece your struggling with has a gap along the top that lines up with the mis alignment on the tunnel. Worse case I would if you can’t get a better fit maybe drill one hole at the bottom where it does line up and cleco it. Then swing the top up into place. It looks like there is some slop that will tighten up.
MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch
Jesse, thank you for the advice. I've others say the same thing on the forum, but I just couldn't figure out how it would fit. I took apart all the foot box panels so the inside wall is free to move. Just sitting there, it seems to natural want to overlap the on the tunnel. IMG_5485.JPG
If I force the top to line up, it seems the gap on the bottom gets bigger and the cut out for the tubular in the front seems to not fit as well. IMG_5486.jpgIMG_5487.JPG
The gap on the bottom look normal to me on your second set of pics. There will definitely be gaps around the tube that need to be sealed. There are other issues with over sealing as these cockpits are exposed to the elements and will need to drain if you get caught in the rain. I’m not there yet.
Thanks Jesse for the suggestion. While on the topic of aluminum paneling, I noticed in the Factory Five instructions they seem only silicone the aluminum panel on the transmission tunnel. Is there a reason for that? I've seen several build threads on the forum riveting the panel to tunnel.
Question on the UCA Screenshot 2021-01-19 132603.png
On the right (back) side, with the adjustments bottomed out, I have ~ 7 1/4". Should I be cutting off 1/4" on each end? I've seen some do it and other didn't.
This goes back a little while, but what did you decide to do with your UCA?
Thanks Jesse for the suggestion. While on the topic of aluminum paneling, I noticed in the Factory Five instructions they seem only silicone the aluminum panel on the transmission tunnel. Is there a reason for that? I've seen several build threads on the forum riveting the panel to tunnel.
I think it’s a gap in the manual. They never really get back to it. You can rivet up the sides but don’t rivet along the top yet. That’s a step for much later depending on how you upholster and attach your tunnel cover.
MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch
A shipment of my POL came in recently including the front lower control arms and the deformed nuts.
It allow me to put together my IFS.
I had removed the ABS rings per others on the forum's instruction of grinding most of the way through and tapping it with a screw driver. IMG_5420.jpgIMG_5422.jpg
I finally put the IFS together and torqued all the bolts down. IMG_5495.jpg
I also received the power steering rack. However it has something inside the mounting holes that is different from the instructions. It looks like a rubber sleeve with a metal insert instead of the grommets and metal tube. I think the mount bolts and nuts are missing as well. Need to check with Factory Five. IMG_5496.jpg
After several attempts I finally got the power steering rack in the mounting brackets. When I went to connect the tie rod to the steering arm, that's when I realized that it was upside down. When I installed it the first time, I didn't notice any differences between the two arms. I recall reading about the holes being tapered, but they looked the same to me... until now. Can't get the arms off without going to borrow the large socket and undoing the 250 lb torqued hub nut. I'm sure this won't be the last time I have to redo something. IMG_5507.JPG
I noticed that almost everyone on the forum has gone to hydraulic clutch and I'm starting the question my decision of staying with the cable clutch. Originally I thought the hydraulic throw out bearing were really cool, but Mike Forte explained that they were not as reliable as the mechanical fork. That popped my hydraulic clutch dreams. My logic was since the fork is been pulled on by a cable, what's the point of putting a hydraulic system with master and slave cylinders. So now, the coyote is here and mated with the tkx. Here are my options.
1. Stay the course with the cable system.
2. Go hydraulic and add the master and slave cylinder to pull on the mechanical fork
3. Go hydraulic all the way. Pull the transmission off and install a hydraulic throw out bearing.
I went with option 2. It was an easy thing to adapt, I never have to worry about the cable stretching/needing to be adjusted and if it failed I would not have to drop the transmission
MK4 #10008 - Ordered 10/06/20, Delivered 03/03/21, First Start 7/22/21, First Go Kart 7/24/21
Paint by Metal Morphous 5/14/22, Legally registered 6/8/22, Graduated 7/20/22
Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
Complete Kit, Ford 306, Sniper/Dual Sync, T5, Hydraulic clutch
We have the hydraulic TOB because that is now standard for blueprint engines. If the decision wasn't made for us though we probably would have gone with number 2 for the reasons Jesse mentioned.
I'm running a cable on my clutch. if you do, get Forte's OEM Ford cables. I hear the FFR supplied cables are crap. and for $50/pair, it's cheap insurance keeping a spare cable on the shelf or in your trunk.